Thread: Meet my 90, and share the adventure.

It's a port sipper, and it is the bomb-diggity!
You could drink even the dirtiest $5 flagon out of it, and you will still feel like Sir Richard Branson.

Worked on some rust removal tonight.
Pictures have failed to load, so view the following link:
imgur album Warn rebuild v2.0 - Album on Imgur


The armature / rotor was a bit rusty, so was scrubbed up with some emery paper. Started at 240 grit and worked down to 1200 grit on the commutator bars (the copper part on the right). The armature stack was just sanded to get the lummpy rust off, up to 600 grit.


Motor housing given some love with a dremel and a flap wheel. All parts were wiped down with contact cleaner after the prep.

Some pitting is seen, but this shouldn't be an issue. This part is structural only.


Brush assembly before any rust removal


...And after rust removal. Some rust remains, but I'll try to use a rust converter on the remainder.


Also gave the brushes some love, and the brush springs. The metal parts at the top are the field winding cores.


Next step will be to use a cleaner on the parts and a dielectric coating. I have some CRC branded stuff to use.

Booze revooz

Some kind of poofter drink with a good dose of metallica. Deal with it.

Spent a few days away during the week for work, so progress was stalled.

Todays job was to paint the winch components.


Parts were cleaned with wax and grease remover to remove contaminants before treating for rust. After sanding and wire brushing the rusty parts, they were given a light coat of WD40 to keep the rust at bay. The wax and grease remover will take care of this.





This is the rust converter I used. It is a phosporic acid based ruse converter which converts iron oxide ("rust") to a relatively inert ferric phosphate. This should kill any rust that I missed when I was cleaning the parts.


It's chooching. See the bubbles. This is a chemical reaction. Science FTW



Parts were then rinsed in water to dilute the acid, and dried in the oven to prevent any new rust forming. They were then hit with CRC Lectra-Clean solvent to prep for the paint.

You can see the rust has converted to a darket blackish ferric phosphate



Ready for paint and all masked up to protect from overspray



Had to keep these tabs clear of the insulating paint so that we can let the electrical pixies do their thing. This is where the brushes attach to the brush holder and the bus bars.



After 2 coats of the CRC red urethane seal coat. This is a dielectric paint which is suitable for electric motors, windings etc. It's flexible once cured, so should be easy to reassemble everything.



Snuck the armature in there for a lick of paint too. Can't see it, but the armature contact bars are masked up so they make proper contact with the brushes once it's all assembled.


Brush holder is looking very sexy.


Booze revooz:

Bevvy for the day was a Cap'n and cola. I was a few days late for international talk like a pirate day, but alas, land lubber, any excuse for a rum is a good excuse.
Bonus points for a thumb that matches the bottle label!

Bonus pics in my imgur album:
Warn Winch rebuild v3.0- painting - Album on Imgur

Started bolting it all back together today.


The field windings were bolted back into the housing. After this, the winding cores were bolted in with the big T50 bolts from the outside of the casing.


Brush assembly attached and all connections made. Screwdriver used to keep the brushes where they belong. This was later upgraded to a cable tie retention system. Ghetto-spec.


All assembled, and ready for the end cap.


Used some blue RTV for extra water-tightness.


I'm still undecided how I'll go making this thing perform long term.
2 options:
1) Enlarge the motor housing drain hole indicated by the screwdriver. This will allow any mud and water to more freely drain, so it doesn't clog like it did last time.
2) Silicone everything closed, and run external breathers with poly line pneumatic fittings. This involved drilling a large hole into the motor casing.
I had a few questions in this other thread >Here<. If I leave it open, but enlarge the drain hole, it should be fairly free draining. If I run breathers, then any water ingress may be in there for longer than I'd like- but I would have the option to go to town with silicone to make it super watertight.


I also pulled the gearbox side of the winch apart to check for any water ingress. It was well greased last time I had it apart, so no issues here. This was pulled down, then reassembled. Anti sieze compound was used on the bolts to make it easier to get apart next time.

Minor modification
I got some mudd stuff interior lights. Originally I thought they were a bit gimmicky, but bloody heck are they bright!




Despite instructions on the website, my 90 did not require the spacer block that they recommended for the rear light. Not sure if this is 90 specific due to the roof lining.

Thought about pressuring the winch housing, rally spec?

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I've heard that it can be done, but with my air compressor without a drier on it, it will add quite a lot of water to the motor.

I have just taken my Warn magnum 10K of the D3 ready for the ARB install on the D4. You have inspired me to pull it down for a squiz. I have never used it in anger yet. i just changed it to synthetic rope.