Thread: Meet my 90, and share the adventure.

Following on from the questions asked in this thread, and adding to the modifications I touched on there, I've gone ahead and added breather pipes to the winch motor. Thanks to all who have made suggestions in the other thread. Hopefully between the two threads, there will be some advice and info to encourage others to take on a similar project if they have the need or desire to.


Swivel elbow for 8mm poly tube, and 1/8 BSP tap was used


I decided to clock motor assembly to allow the motor connections to be in a better location on the vehicle, this also had the benefit of allowing the drain holes to be in a better spot relative to the 2 bolts that hold the motor to the winch end plates. Here's an image of where the top hole will be punched. This is on the brush end of the motor housing.


Other elbow went on the bottom of the motor, and is the drain port. This was on the other side of the motor housing, furthest from the brushes. The field winding lugs (connections F1 and F2) were siliconed in for extra water ingress protection. The whoe things was siliconed shut, so there should be very little water getting in to the motor.


Just tap it in...






Made a bridging cable to bench test the winch - usse this to bridge terminals A and F1, then connect a battery to the earth lug on the winch motor housing and positive to the F2 terminal, and it will winch in one direction, flip the bridging cable to the other field winding lug, and it will go in the opposite direction.


When I realized I don't have an easily accessible battery and other jumper leads for the testing, I just hooked it up to the vehicle as it sits:


Last steps for the rebuild are to reinstall the seals and regrease the components.



I'm also in the process of giving the cable drum a birthday.
Wire brushing and rust converting it today, and will paint tomorrow.


Even after a few years life, it's starting to get some corrosion. Anyone with a winch and synthetic rope which lives in the elements, consider giving this the once over when you can.

The below pic was after a sand with 100 grit emery cloth and a coating of rust converter. Once this dries, it's off to paint.

Ahh your winch will love you for that Mitch.

By the way, the D3 on the screen in one of your pics looks oddly familiar

Cheers

Dan

That was some good watchin'
Keep the videos up Dan, I need quality content to watch when I'm playing mad scientist at home and can't be out wheeling.

Winch rebuild is done and dusted, it is all reassembled and freshly greased (this happened last week, but my updates here are slow).

Here is the winch drum following on from rust conversion and painting. Turned out pretty darn good I think. It was amazing what a few years of soggy dyneema will do to metal. It wasn't bad, but it would only have got worse with time.


The paint product I've been using is Dulux metalshield. Colour is flat black- because it's maaaaad. Metalshield is a tough epoxy enamel, and seems to be nice and hard wearing. I've also used the same paint in conjunction with an etch primer for painting aluminium parts (and I'm led to believe it will also work well on galvanised materials).

I'll get some decent pics of the winch when I can. It's not super pretty on the outside, but the rule of thumb for ugly things is 'it's what's on the inside that counts'

Centre console mods
I've done some mods to the centre console box (AKA cubby box). The initial plan was to do a 5-minute mod with one of the cubby box trays from mud stuff.

Unfortunately, the way the aftermarket sub woofer was installed by the previous owner, meant that the tray wouldn't fit.

The sub was actually held on with pergola angle.
Freaking.
PERGOLA.
Angle.



Oh, and did I mention the M8 thread BOLTS?


Yep, it was a bit cobbled together and rough and ready, BUT it was strong. Main problem was it A) looked like crap, and meant my new little tray wouldn't fit. A better solution was to be found.

The initial plan was to find some 50x50 aluminium angle, and lop off one side to 20mm or so, allowing a row of wood screws to be sunk into the side of the cubby box at a depth that wouldn't cause an issue with teh tray.

It was actually a bit more difficult that I first thought to find the right material I needed, and on a ditch effort, I picked up some aluminium angle which was intended for use as non-slip capping on the corners of stairs. At least it would be a step-up from pergola angle, amiright?

The profile of this material, after a quick knock-up with the hack-saw, showed it to be not wide enough to fully capture the bolt holes I had available, and caused the sub to be loose on it's mounts. So that idea was ditched.

I ended up scrounging thru the offcut pile for some 20mmx2mm aluminium flat bar which worked well, but in another design. The strips were painted and mounted as such, with new-fangled nut-serts used on the sub itself (nuts and bolts are a pain to deal with, IMO).



So the tray now fits, and all this crap:

...as well as all the small crap which sunk to the bottom of the centre console...

...will hopefully all have a place now. If you are wondering where all the bolts came from in the above pic, I call it LR 'over engineering'. (You know they put 20% more fasateners in a car than they need, right? ).

I will also need to shorten this abortion of a wiring mess as well...

There is a crimping tool that will allow me to shorten this 5m length of cord to a neat little 10cm piece that will fit between the sub, and the sub bass balance remote dial.

I'll get some nice pics when I can. Stay tuned!

How different are the aftermarket Alpine subs to the OEM Apline sub fitted in the Puma?

I know my factory fitted one doesn't have a sub control.

Hi Michael,
I've never actually had the opportunity to compare mine with stock.
I've got the alpine sub, as well as soundstream speakers front and rear, all done in the car's past life. So I'm not sure if there would be a equal comparison one way or the other.

If I ever get the opportunity though, I'm thinking Tiesto- Adagio For Strings, at say, 120dB, or until something blows.

This is the somewhat finished job.




The overhang of the sub below the normal height of the box means I need to space it out for it to work with the ex-box hinge (extra clearance is needed).


Spacer made.

Booze revooz- Bundy lazy bear rum and dry notbad.jpeg

I'm thinking once I get it all dialed in, I might turn this slot into a paper / map storage slot. You've got to capitalize on every spare cm of space in a 90.

I still might need to double it up (2x12mm ply= 24mm spacer), as the sub is now flush with the base of the spacer, and still might immpact on the opening of the ex box.

The revised centre console box is done, and it only needed the single 12mm ply spacer. I finished the edges with some iron-on black melamine edge strips, which turned out nicely and are a good match for the colour of the box.

Spent a whole 30 minutes this morning pulling out the rear jump seats. I was planning to get some pics for a bit of an 'idiots guide' walkthru to the process, but all 28 or so bolts came out without a fuss, and I think in retrospect, if anyone needs pictures to help them do this job, they have bigger problems . That being said, the seats are now sitting in the corner of the living room, much to the annoyance of the lady of the house.

In other news, planning a trip away for 2 weeks or so, commencing 24.10.2016, so need all the space in the vehicle I can muster.
Picked up a new esky for the trek, a 55L cool ice roto-moulded plastic job, which I hope will last the long haul. My previous eskies (ice boxes, chilly-bins or whatever people call them these days) were all hand me downs, and tended to leak and not work that well. I was lucky enough to borrow one from a mate locally, which was a ripper, and part of the reason for going a new one.

Planning to head to inverell to see some limestone caves, then on to glen innes to grafton, yamba, more coastal meandering, and on to byron bay. No itinery as such, just a rough plan and some time to make it happen.