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Thread: Warning New Puma Owners

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loubrey View Post
    Please excuse my ignorance and lack of mechanical understanding, but I'm totally confused. The adapter shaft is part of the transfer case and I sort of followed the discussion about it being dry during assembly...

    However, how does the ATB come into play in preventing the wear described? The Ashcroft ATB is from my understanding an advanced LSD that goes into one of the differentials and is obviously significantly "removed" from the transfer case? Do you actually build it into the TC and what would the benefits be (other than very much stronger 4 pin carrier etc)?

    Honest question with no sarcasm here guys as in my mind spending 295 GBP on making a component bulletproof is not a bad investment...

    Cheers,

    Lou
    Lou, I don't think your question was understood or answered,
    they were talking about replacing the centre diff in the transfer case with an ATB, . The Center diff has been a weak point since the RRC first came out, and carried on poor design into the LT230 , and made even worse in the Puma. Finally an aftermarket fix when they are going out of production - typical !

    Ashcroft Transmissions

  2. #32
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    Angry

    Quote Originally Posted by Turtle130 View Post
    I know it's been covered here before, but it appears LR still don't know how to fill oil. On picking up my brand new MY15 130 and driving it home, it got the better of me to grab the spanners and check the levels. Surprise surprise, 500ml needed in transfer, 300ml in front diff and rear diff was OK. Yet to do the gearbox, but I won't be surprised if it's short as well!
    Thanks Turtle
    I just finishing topping up both diffs in my MY13 PUMA defender.
    yes 500ml goes in front diff and 300ml goes in the rear.
    I also found ALL the bolts on front diff carrier are LOOSE, some of which can be easily turned by hand. so I torqued them properly to 41NM.

    will check gearbox and transfer box tomorrow.

    btw Turtle, the OEM oils are not easy to get hold of.
    could you tell me which one you are using for the transfer and gearbox?

    Thanks
    Martin

  3. #33
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    Aug 2014
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    Martin, I try to use Penrite oil wherever I can (blind patriotism maybe) but it has stood every test I've ever thrown at it. Penrite pro gear 75-90 in the transfer, good old 80W-90 in the diffs. Gearbox I still have not checked (time poor) and this one will be the hardest choice. LR BOT382 is, quite frankly, stupidly expensive. If it does need oil, I will certainly give the pro gear a burl and see what the shift quality is like.

    That said, each to their own as far as oil choices go because opinions are many and varied on this sudject....

  4. #34
    cinders Guest
    Same here, Penrite since basically new.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    Don't be tempted to run anything but BOT328 in the main gearbag. It can be bought at a reasonable price from aftermarket suppliers like ROVACRAFT, (happy now Stu??? :P)or BMI etc.
    In any case, if at 60,000km intervals you baulk at paying around $150 for a trans oil change then maybe look at the bigger picture. Oil is comparatively cheaper than trans issues. This gearbox had a history of shift issues and poor performance when first intruduced in Mustang etc, the oil was specially developed by Castrol for Ford/ getrag. Just use the correct oil and it won't bite you. Just be thankful you don't have a 6HP26 in a D3/4. They take 3 times as much oil and at a similar $/ litre, too.

    Penrite products are what we use here, too.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  6. #36
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    Thanks Guys.

    so I guess it will be generally okay to mix different brands?

  7. #37
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by justinc View Post
    Just use the correct oil and it won't bite you. Just be thankful you don't have a 6HP26 in a D3/4. They take 3 times as much oil and at a similar $/ litre, too.

    Penrite products are what we use here, too.

    JC
    Arent I lucky We have both

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Arent I lucky We have both
    Yeah, but the little 90 will be a fair while off needing a trans oil change

    And the D4....well you can do that yourself, anyway, when you install a new 2 post hoist in your shed....

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

  9. #39
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    JC,when do you do tranny oil in the defender,40K intervals?. Pat

  10. #40
    Join Date
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    Hi Pat, 60K as a rule. I have more concern over the transfer cases, they get Penrite Pro gear 75w90 full synthetic at 20K intervals....

    I have 1 customer that has a MY2007 130 with 180K on it, trans still shifts like new and it has a good hard working life (like a 130 should ) I have been changing his at 60K intervals since new. He has had 1 transfer case, 1 front diff, 1 engine, 1 clutch and a few other bits and bobs but the transmission has been faultless.

    JC
    The Isuzu 110. Solid and as dependable as a rock, coming soon with auto box😊
    The Range Rover L322 4.4.TTDV8 ....probably won't bother with the remap..😈

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