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Thread: 300tdi Mild performance enhancements?

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by steane View Post
    A bitsa with an old truck engine won't be much of an investment.
    Think of a 4BD1T as a much larger capacity, more power, significantly better built and more reliable 300tdi. I can't see how age comes into it as they are both technologically practically identical.

    But really, your sig line says it all

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dervish View Post
    Think of a 4BD1T as a much larger capacity, more power, significantly better built and more reliable 300tdi. I can't see how age comes into it as they are both technologically practically identical.

    But really, your sig line says it all
    Sorry, when a 300TDi thread gets 'Isuzu bombed', as they regularly do, I can't help myself

    Correct, age doesn't come into it.

    4BD1 = old truck engine
    300Tdi = old engine

    I wasn't suggesting one was older than the other, the emphasis was on "truck".

    I get that some people think the Isuzu is the way to go, but removing a good 300tdi Defender's originality will prove to be the opposite of an investment over the next decade. Everywhere else in the world, the 300 is a respected, genuine, Land Rover engine and it's the Defender that the purists are buying.

    That was my point, ie changing engines and the vehicle's originality will prove to be the opposite of an investment.

    If this thread was about a suitable engine swap for a 300TDi Defender then the 4BD1T would be a consideration, but there are better options in my opinion (BMW M57 ).

  3. #13
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    Stick with the 300Tdi - proof is in the Dyno data.....

    You 4BD1T people - move on!

    Mine is a 1998 300tdi 130 weighing it at nearly 3 tons on the day of the dyno. I am running 285/75 MTZ tyres.

    Fuel pump has been tuned to match the Allisport upgraded intercooler, silicone hoses and straight though 2 3/4 inch exhaust...no mufllers. Turbo is still original. I am running a max of 14 pound of boost. I do have to be careful going up hills whilst keeping an eye on the EGT's as they can climb quickly if I am giving it a bootful.

    I also modified the piece of steel pipe that runs between the intercooler and the turbo. The factory pipe is squashed so that is sits over the suspension tower cover. I had the quashed section cut out and replaced with straight pipe.

    Whilst 104hp at the wheels is not earth shattering, the increased torque makes all the difference and is a huge improvement from a stock vehicle. Much better to drive.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dervish View Post
    Think of a 4BD1T as a much larger capacity, more power, significantly better built and more reliable 300tdi. I can't see how age comes into it as they are both technologically practically identical.

    But really, your sig line says it all
    Absolutely agree,my Tdi has been a heap of ****,you'd think an engine thats lived and worked in some of the harshest conditions Australia can throw up would last longer,I mean I had to change the original 17 year old water pump last year and the original 18 year old starter last month,poorly build unreliable piece of crap it is . Pat

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAT303 View Post
    Just get it tuned mate,remember these engines were factory set to meet the then emissions standards not performance.Get a good tuner,there are a few around to set the old girl up on the dyno and you'd be surprised at how well it'll go. Pat
    Agree with Pat, get it to normal as it can be, then the Allisport VNT etc... route if need be, I have and it's great, if I hadn't it would still be fine.

    Tim

  6. #16
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    I'm not disrespecting the 300tdi - I had one and loved it right up to the 450,000km mark.

    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    Stick with the 300Tdi - proof is in the Dyno data.....

    ...

    Whilst 104hp at the wheels is not earth shattering, the increased torque makes all the difference and is a huge improvement from a stock vehicle. Much better to drive.
    Out of curiosity, how much torque do you think your 300tdi is producing?

  7. #17
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    570 ftpd
    Andrew
    1998 Landrover Defender 300Tdi 130 HCPU Expedition
    1972 Peugeot 504 Sedan - Daily Driver

  8. #18
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    Apparently no stock for the madman kit.

    http://www.madman.co.za/index.php/pr...-turbo-kit-vnt

    Are there alternatives for a bolt on kit?

    Edit: found these:

    http://www.landrovertuning.com.au/vn...r-300-tdi.html

    http://www.allisport.com/product/all...-turbocharger/

    Seem to be the same product?
    Last edited by edddo; 2nd September 2016 at 09:12 AM. Reason: more info found

    My third 98 D1 300tdi Auto -now registered
    81 Rover SD1 manual - long term project

  9. #19
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    Whilst were at it does anyone know a good tuner? I'm in Geelong but would be willing to travel a bit if need be?

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 86mud View Post
    570 ftpd
    That's as much as a new technology 6.0 Power Stroke turbo diesel V8 produces.

    What the dyno measures is the torque at the wheels; you need to take into account the torque multiplication of the drivetrain. In your case, this was a 3rd gear pull - so 1.3 times the torque - through the transfer case - 1.41 times the torque - through the diffs - 3.54 times the torque. First, 570 ft.lbs is 773 Nm (not necessary, just don't like the imperial system). 773/3.54/1.41/1.3 = 119 Nm. People often estimate the Land Rover driveline loss at around 40-50%, putting you around ~200-240 Nm. That's somewhere around stock for a factory fresh 300tdi - which is still very good going. 300tdi torque is listed as 265Nm, but that would've been measured without ancillaries.

    Where you've picked up some power is higher in the rev range - probably because you've got more fuel available now from the tune; and also why you now have to watch the EGTs.



    Let's have a look at another Dyno run. This motor has achieved a dyno reading of 880Nm. This is a 4th gear pull (no torque multiplication) into a 1:1 transfer case (no torque multiplication) through a 3.54 ratio diff. So this motor is putting out 248 Nm at the wheels with a similar driveline loss, so 420 - 500Nm.

    Perhaps that puts 'Isuzu bombing' into perspective.

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