Thread: Battle of the titans! 300 vd td5 ....Please help to end the saga!

Forgot to add the 5s im finding have 150-300kms while 300tdis are anywhere from 200 to 600kms.

I don't see the confusion over the engine.
You either want zero electrics or some electrics.
I will say the comment on ECU "spitting" on TD5 is false.
TD5 is the better motor by miles if you don't have a dysfunctional aversion to the 20th century or believe EMP will be your undoing when global calamity strikes .
.... spending thousands to keep it going annually?
Like it or not both vehicles are old and will require maintenance.
Regardless of engine choice the expenses will be primarily drive line from the gearbox onwards depending on kms and history.

With respect, there is no such 4wd of the vintage and kms you are considering, which will not cost immediately or progressively.

Both good engines.

Not sure about your reference to rust. What rust are you referring to?

If main use is commuting including highway miles, then I'd lean towards TD5. I also think it is easier to find a really nice Td5 and will probably cost you less than a really nice Tdi. I don't know why that is the case but it seems to be how it is at the moment.

Strangy is right, and I've said it dozens of times, unless you spend serious money and buy a really original, well kept or rebuilt car, it's going to cost $s to fix it initially, and more $s to keep it running. They aren't Commodores or Camrys.

I've got a 300Tdi Defender and a TD5 D2a auto.

I trust the Defender more, and wil default to that for any long drives. Having said that, I did replace the engine at about 305K due to a bottom end noise. I didn't rebuild it, as I got a 10K motor cheap.

The Disco's done 290K and had the head gasket and dowel done at about 200K when I bought it.

The disco will cruise at 120kph, the 110 at 105kph.

The Tdi gets better overall economy, especially around town. But the TD5 leans out well on the highway.

The Tdi is noisier.

The TD5 auto retreats into limp home mode anytime the ECU times out, for example, if I try to start it twice (ie) starter motor problem, or accidentally try to start in gear, then shift to [P] and try again. Once the ignition was on and the door open so I could use a lead light to cook, and the ECU timed out and the gearbox went into limp home mode. I've got a Hawkeye, so it's just a minute or two to clear the faults and move on, but it's just another layer of distrust.

I've put a VNT on the Tdi, and fitted an Overdrive, so it does cruise at lower revs on the highway.

I'm not as scared of the TD5 as I was when I first bought it, and most of the issues I've had, you won't get in a manual. If you get one, get rid of the EGR and let it breathe properly and you'll use 10% less fuel.

Rust is going to be a problem withany poorly maintained motorcar. There is no reason why a 300 tdi engined vehicle would be more rust susceptable than the latest Defender.

What people fail to realise is that a vehicle having double the amount of driven wheels will cost more than double to maintain - if you want/need the benefit of four wheel drive and dual gear ranges it's gonna cost you.

AFAIK a Td5 would be fine if you are willing to maintain it , neither engine will last forever

It's all elementry and just common sense really...

If you want a car with a bulletproof engine with no mechanical issues get a good Defender/110 with a 4BD1.

A 4BD1 wouldbe guaranteed to end any saga

Sorry not worth the head ache to comment this is like ground hog day
Owned 2 of both over the years
Look at my sig and that is where im at

Owned or driven all manner of engined defenders, currently have 300 TDi, 230,000 kms with 60,000kms in Africa, CSR and beyond, has run on paraffin and chicken blood... That said all are good and all have there issues, and currently contemplating a ISF 3.8 Cummins... Won't that upset the purists...

Good mate just did 140,000kms around the world with a TD5 no issues.

Tim