Thread: What did you do on your Defender today ? (well, this week anyway)

wasn't really planning on it, but ticked a few items off on sunday:

• Cleaned the MAF sensor, it threw an error last week, so we'll see...
• Installed twin USB power outlet into the glovebox, nice and discrete.
• Installed the passenger gullwing.
• installed a strip light just inside the gullwing, hard wired with a dimmer and yellow/white switchable to reduce the bugs.
• Bought a waeco cfx50 as its a bit bigger & lighter than my old engel, plus side opening lid is really nice next to the gullwing

Here is the evidence:
IMG_2516.jpg IMG_2517.jpg IMG_2515.jpg

Originally Posted by tact

Just to add: One job still to do:
- the way I have the 90mm tube is positioned right now provides a subtle downhill run from the nugget box attached to the inside of the fender, into the air filter box.
- got to smooth away a portion of the wheel arch inside the engine bay so I can pull the tube up higher, to give something of an uphill run for any water that may hit the intake grille.

Tried taking pics, booster is firmly in the way of the camera. Mine has no kink however and nestles nicely between the booster and the guard. I did think about the lack of sump to catch water, you have more of a problem than I do. That said my sealed unit can still collect water through the hat.

Originally Posted by dazzler

Tried taking pics, booster is firmly in the way of the camera. Mine has no kink however and nestles nicely between the booster and the guard. I did think about the lack of sump to catch water, you have more of a problem than I do. That said my sealed unit can still collect water through the hat.

I fiddled some more this afternoon. Pulled the 90mm hose well forward of the brake booster, kind of over the wheel arch inner. Still not as “uphill” from the box inside the front guard as I’d like. Might source another piece of the tube, a bit longer.

I still have the self draining bung inside the air filter box functional.

Yeah Airbox drain!! forgot about that!!


also ..sure you have unleashed a few more ponies with this performance upgrade

Just installed my BAS 170 on my 110 today and picked my home made spare wheel carrier up from the sand blasters and painters.
busy afternoon

Fixed my click-click click starter motor.

Had my transmission rebuilt and have had starting problems ever since.
New battery helped then ended up with a clicking starter which i repaired with a kit only to have the problem come back not long after.
Decided to look into earth strap locations and couldnt find one at all to the engine. Had it been left off when the tranny was out??
So off to supercheap and 10 min under the car with the strap from Starter mount bolt to chassis and its like a new car. Starts so fast its crazy!

After fitting my sealed system from front guard to air filter box I did a quick test - covering the intake grille at the front guard to see how well sealed it was.

The 90mm duct tried to implode but the engine kept running. Didn’t test more as I got a bit sus about the standard hose that seems to go from the top cover of the engine to the air intake hose between air filter and turbo. Maybe blocking the air intake at the front guard would cause increased suction on crankcase and potentially expose the turbo to more oil than acceptable.

All purely speculative and something to validate one day.

Today I stumbled on this!:
Bas Remaps - I think I MUST be the first to go this in... | Facebook

Interesting read!
”...So that is that then.. KBX and snorkels ARE restrictive and cause more vacuum draw on the crank case which is the nearest point to the turbo inlet and without a shadow of doubt can con tribute towards oil in the compressor housing of the turbo and a difference in power to a non snorkel car.”

I picked up a WIPAC LED lamp conversion kit from a forum member down the road and installed all but the indicators last night, mozzies got a little too friendly in the end.