Thread: BAS remap Puma - Reviews / Updates?

Hiyas

Note that most of this thread is about 2.2s Had BAS remap done 6yrs ago, and fully laden for 3 months and with tinny on back - extra 8-900kg (slotted brakes and braked trailer great help) Not had any problems, even when I did 6000km straight up with a fair bit of 110 cruise. Mind you with boat and internal load fuel consumption goes up around 13.5/100.

When purchasing I did specify what I wanted bit of HP much more torque. Described what I was doing.

Personal opinion, JLR already made the 2.2 work harder more boost more fuel, to compensate for loss of 200cc. More boost more fuel more heat, as in the HEAT thing rather than the temperature thing.

Cheers

RF

Bruce Davis did an upgrade to my Feb '14 build Puma in August 2017. Bigger intercooler, high pressure hoses, closed off EGR and new brain. Never did tell me how many klickowatts or scootin's the engine then produced but he did say "Ray, your car will now do 100mph". My response; "Not with me on board it won't". It improved low-down torque resulting in towing an 800 kg camper much more pleasurable and that's what I wanted. With or without the camper 5th and 6th gears are no longer useless cruising gears, the car has a creditable head of steam and acceleration if I choose to use it.

With camper attached cruising at a steady indicated speed of 90-95 kmh at 1800-1900 revs yields a consistent 13.2 litres/100. Once engine revs exceed 2000 the fuel consumption increases markedly. Temperature gauge implies all is always well, even with a tail wind. Only time the temp needle moves is in the middle of winter when it drops about one needle thickness below it's normal 9 o'clock position, which is normal for Cba.

Currently the Def is sick with a busted engine due to aged fuel producing knocking and destroying nos. 2 and 4 pistons. New donk is on the way. Guilty servo has been identified, they'll be hearing from NRMA Insurance in due course once the final bill is paid.

Originally Posted by RecMec

Bruce Davis did an upgrade to my Feb '14 build Puma in August 2017. Bigger intercooler, high pressure hoses, closed off EGR and new brain. Never did tell me how many klickowatts or scootin's the engine then produced but he did say "Ray, your car will now do 100mph". My response; "Not with me on board it won't". It improved low-down torque resulting in towing an 800 kg camper much more pleasurable and that's what I wanted. With or without the camper 5th and 6th gears are no longer useless cruising gears, the car has a creditable head of steam and acceleration if I choose to use it.

With camper attached cruising at a steady indicated speed of 90-95 kmh at 1800-1900 revs yields a consistent 13.2 litres/100. Once engine revs exceed 2000 the fuel consumption increases markedly. Temperature gauge implies all is always well, even with a tail wind. Only time the temp needle moves is in the middle of winter when it drops about one needle thickness below it's normal 9 o'clock position, which is normal for Cba.

Currently the Def is sick with a busted engine due to aged fuel producing knocking and destroying nos. 2 and 4 pistons. New donk is on the way. Guilty servo has been identified, they'll be hearing from NRMA Insurance in due course once the final bill is paid.

Good luck with that.
2014 pumas had an issue with pistons causing cracking.
In regards to temp I have an aftermarket gauge reading from the computer and it will fluctuate between 87 & 107 deg and the needle on the dash never mooves.

Originally Posted by big harold

Good luck with that.
2014 pumas had an issue with pistons causing cracking.
In regards to temp I have an aftermarket gauge reading from the computer and it will fluctuate between 87 & 107 deg and the needle on the dash never mooves.

2014 pumas had an issue with pistons causing cracking.

I don't have any knowledge of this being true, what proof do you have to back this up?

The 2.4 had an oil cooling issue that lead to some melted pistons. This was rectified post 2010 I believe

The standard temp guage is pretty useless so normalised even when it’s overheating at 106 the guage doesn’t move, finally does at 107, by then it too late. Aftermarket gauges clearly show temps rising uphill so you have time to back off.
An egt guage will give far more reliable temps, the egts rise then sometime after, like 20 or so seconds the temps rise. These engines get too hot quite quickly when you hold the open up a long hill.

Originally Posted by 1nando

2014 pumas had an issue with pistons causing cracking.

I don't have any knowledge of this being true, what proof do you have to back this up?

The 2.4 had an oil cooling issue that lead to some melted pistons. This was rectified post 2010 I believe

Do a search.
This engine in transit van has issues.
Exactly the same cracking is occurring in Toyotas as well.
Pistons look very similar.

Originally Posted by clive22

The standard temp guage is pretty useless so normalised even when it’s overheating at 106 the guage doesn’t move, finally does at 107, by then it too late. Aftermarket gauges clearly show temps rising uphill so you have time to back off.
An egt guage will give far more reliable temps, the egts rise then sometime after, like 20 or so seconds the temps rise. These engines get too hot quite quickly when you hold the open up a long hill.

Overheating is not 106c. In a pressurised system it’s far above that. Even 110c isn’t a problem.

Falcon 6s for instance will regularly run to 112c in Summer working hard without an issue.

This is the primary reason almost all manufacturers went for Normalised gauges - people relate 100c as boiling and begin to panic.

Whilst there is a correlation between EGT and Engine temperature they aren’t linear.

EGTs differ in that they are direct temperatures against the combustion zone, too hot and things obviously begin to melt. EGTs can be dropped in seconds as you mentioned by the simple act of throttle off.

Tombie the guage is in my opinion over normalised, though to some extent I can appreciate why LR seek to do this.
But the reality is the gauge does not move until shortly before the time the ECU shuts the fuel.

Three times my truck has overheated once due to a manufacturing flaw in the radiator, once due to a cracked oil cooler and once due to a blown head gasket. Every time it was the ECU tripped as the warning, really for the temp guage to serve its purpose it needs to map the increase in engine temprature that is what a temprature guage is for.

I do understand that that it is a pressuirsed system and boiling temps rise as pressure does. Again trip temp for guage movement is can be argued about, but in in my opinion the temprature the guage starts to move is too high.

Coolant temprature are a strong function of EGT's. not withstanding the final relationship between them. The greater the heat generation from fuel burn, the hotter the coolant will be