Gav's 101.

[101 Ron]

If you remove the front tailshaft you need to run the nuts up tight on the transfercase drive flange as there is nothing to hold the bolts away from the transfercase housing.(the bolts cannot be removed without pulling the flange too.)

Check the how tight are the large nuts that hold the drive flange on both diff and transfercase.....Loctite if loose.
I tend to replace the tailshaft bolts everytime I remove the tailshafts and use nyloc nuts and Loctite as well
The tailshaft vibs tends to loosen things if you give it the chance.
Check wear in the tailshaft sliding spines too.

[Sitec]

As Ron said!! I'd be very slow to lift the nose of the diff tho. I thought about it years ago and got advised against it by several people as Salisburys run hotter than Rover diffs and the likelihood of the diff nose pinion bearing getting less lubrication is higher... I can't see it myself... There's enough oil in a Salisbury to make a large mess on the floor, so how the diff nose bearing will be starved is anyone's guess, but that's what I was told. It would be a big job too, as using jigs etc as you'd have to cut the swivels and spring mounting plates off, lift the nose by your chosen amount and weld the swivels, and spring mounts back on! Not only that, the full time 4x4 gives the 101 its positive feel on the road (pulling you round corners etc).. You'd loose that. The CDL will take it but you are still asking a lot of those tiny gears within the center diff as they will still be taking all the load, just not moving... (When engaged, the CDL locks the front transfer box output shaft to the diff casing). If it really is driving you nuts.... Their is always the R380 or Santana 5 speed option, both of which will bolt against the V8, but will put your transfer case about 150mm further back. Being further back cured the front prop rattle/drone on my Nissan powered 101, and I'm hoping the same will happen with the Cummins!! Another thing I heard (tho never tried it)... if you lower the rhs of the V8 and gearbox by 25/30mm that is said to quieter it too... Just my thoughts.. Hope you sort it and let us know if you do!! :)

[Homestar]

The pics I've seen of the rotated diffs shows an elbow screwed into where the fill plug goes so you can get a higher level of oil in it and keep the pinion bearing happy.

[Sitec]

Yup, that'd work. Would yo go as far as altering the axle casing or just put wedges in and see how you go?

[Homestar]

IF I do it, I would go the whole hog and have it modified properly. There was someone in the Eastern burbs somewhere that have done these before and properly - jig and all, but I can't remember where I saw this or who it was...

It would be next year sometime - I don't have either the time nor money to do it at the moment, but maybe one day...

Hence why I was thinking of whipping the front shaft out for a while.:)

I might pull it out and go or a drive on the weekend and see what it feels like.

[101RRS]

just put wedges in and see how you go?

On a 101 that will stuff up the steering.

The best way is to remove the axles tubes and rotate 17.5 degrees at the diff end. Not the easiest thing to do though.

Dropping the engine and gearbox an inch or two would probably do the trick and not have a big impact on ground clearance.

Garry

[101RRS]

I might pull it out and go or a drive on the weekend and see what it feels like.

Very smooth and quiet except if you use the clutch and throttle with care.

[Homestar]

Not quite 101 related, but it fits in with this - I did some work to my Sankey trailer today. I need to get it registered before I drag it up into NSW, so I've got everything done that was needed before heading down to Vicroads.

It needed safety chains welding onto it, the chassis number Vicroads gave me stamping into it, all the lights working properly and a weigh bridge ticket.

I now have that all done, so I'll make a booking with Vicroads on Monday and should have it registered before next weekend with a bit of luck.

I will have to modify the number plate to fit it where it has to go - anyone know if this is considered an issue in either Vic or NSW?

Cheers - Gav

[juddy]

Not quite 101 related, but it fits in with this - I did some work to my Sankey trailer today. I need to get it registered before I drag it up into NSW, so I've got everything done that was needed before heading down to Vicroads.

It needed safety chains welding onto it, the chassis number Vicroads gave me stamping into it, all the lights working properly and a weigh bridge ticket.

I now have that all done, so I'll make a booking with Vicroads on Monday and should have it registered before next weekend with a bit of luck.

I will have to modify the number plate to fit it where it has to go - anyone know if this is considered an issue in either Vic or NSW?

Cheers - Gav

I have to put those safety chain on my Sankey, easy job? what chains do we have to use, do they have to be ADR approved?

Where did you mount them?

[Mick_Marsh]

I have to put those safety chain on my Sankey, easy job? what chains do we have to use, do they have to be ADR approved?

Where did you mount them?
I've not seen anything to suggest they need to be ADR approved. They are just welded to the drawbar.
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/F3998CFD-B6EA-4124-B1A0-BBD4CF2C1DFF/0/VSI24.pdf

More info. Mentions position of number plate.
http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/NR/rdonlyres/256922CD-F955-4029-ADDF-04C308295EA9/0/VSI9.pdf

[Sitec]

Re chain, not sure where you stand in Vic, but here in SA there are two sizes, both of which are rated... Be worth looking into rather than welding some lifting chain on then having to cut it off again!! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Re chain, not sure where you stand in Vic, but here in SA there are two sizes, both of which are rated... Be worth looking into rather than welding some lifting chain on then having to cut it off again!! :)
Have a look at the VSI in my link. Basically, it says the chain must be able to withstand the rated towing capacity of the drawbar. It mentions nothing about being ADR approved.

[Homestar]

I have to put those safety chain on my Sankey, easy job? what chains do we have to use, do they have to be ADR approved?

Where did you mount them?

They are welded to the bottom front of the drawbar. I'll take some pics in the morning.

As Mick has mentioned there is no ADR requirement for the chains in Vic - not sure about other states. The chain I have used is a heavy chain we use as safety chain on our larger trailers at work. We use 2 sizes - a really thin weedy looking chain for the 6x4's and 8x5's and this thicker chain for everything from there up to 2 tonne. Not sure what it is but we have 100's of trailers registered with this chain on them, so I'm not expecting any dramas.

It was a straight forward job welding them on - you have to weld greater than 50% of the link, and allow the link attached to it to move freely.

Compared to the chains I've seen on a lot of factory made trailers, these will do the job fine.

The pics will tell the story when I post them.:)

[Homestar]

Here's some pics of the chains and how I have attached them to the 101. I need to shorten the chains by a couple of links as the regulations state that the draw bar must not hit the ground if the trailer comes off the hitch. I tried it and it just touches, so a link or two shorter will work well.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/A9440581-2F8F-4B7D-9314-CD96880EA126-216-00000022DAA281F0_zps3c03d0d0.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/9D85CD36-F41B-4D72-83EB-822A4F58ED72-216-00000022E2891398_zps741772c7.jpg

These plates are just some 5mm gal brackets from Bunnings with a hole drilled in each end. They bolt straight in with the bolts that hold the hitch plate on. Took 5 minutes to fit, no modifications required and you can't see them unless you go looking for them. :)
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/385721FF-2457-45D6-9179-34AF61F04737-216-00000022E7458597_zpscd773efa.jpg

[Sitec]

Very neat. Is that a half tonne Sankey or the bigger Rapier trailer? I liked the style of Micks trailer, saw some pics of it on here with a decent looking trailer tent assy atop of it..

[101RRS]

If this trailer is going to NSW do you actually need to register it Vic - would a permit suffice?

In all jurisdictions the chains have to be rated chain - not sure of the specifics but the rating has to be high enough to cover the load (obviously).

Garry

[Homestar]

No, it will need full reg. NSW Police Officers take great delight in booking Victorians for non compliant trailers. Technically it needs to be registered in Vic too, but I would be unlucky to get pinged for it down here as it is smaller than a 6x4 but its tare weight exceeds 250Kg, so it needs rego. It is only $28 a year I think, so no killer there.

Chain wise, the only 'rating' it requires in Vic is that it must be able to hold 1.5 times the full weight of the trailer. As mentioned, not worried about the chain - it is the same chain we use on hundreds of trailers in all States and Territories in Aus - I'm sure we would have a rating certificate somewhere at work if this is an issue with Vicroads, but I doubt it.

[Homestar]

Very neat. Is that a half tonne Sankey or the bigger Rapier trailer? I liked the style of Micks trailer, saw some pics of it on here with a decent looking trailer tent assy atop of it..

I believe it is a 3/4 tonne Sankey - that's what I have been told anyway. It is in very good condition as the PO had it fully and professionally rebuilt. He admitted he paid way too much to have that done, but his loss, as it came with the 101.:)

I use it for camping and it has 2 batteries in there that charge off the auxiliary supply on the trailer plug, the Engel, the spare tyres for the 101 and trailer, as well as other lighter, bulky items like my big camping chairs, etc. easy to tow, but I can't see the bloody thing in my mirrors - ebay to the rescue there, as I have just ordered a cheap reversing camera that clips onto the rear view mirror so I will be able to see it and what is behind me much better. :)

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/90635E53-2A1B-4BC3-B23C-57F1E42E91F0-216-0000002CDFF1B68C_zpsd333a203.jpg

[Mick_Marsh]

There is also another trailer type by Sankey which looks the same but is wider in track. It's known as a "wide track Sankey". Yes, it's a bit difficult to understand why they call it that. I think the 101's towed those in the UK.
AJ had one of them for sale last I saw. I think he is open to offers.
The Rapier trailer is a very different beast. Apparently, the Australian Rapier trailers have various modifications.
My camper trailer is an Australian manufactured Track otherwise referred to as a "RAAF Track Tactical". Track trailers made a civvy version which Mallee Fowl has one. I must visit and take lots of photo's of it.
Track currently make a different civvy version which is redesigned to suit Landcruisers. Starting price, around $20,000.

[The ho har's]

Gav isn't it about time you cleaned under the 101:o

Our's NEVER has mud and grime like yours:p:wasntme:

OH we picked up a spare set of 6 studs today:) the seller will be lurking:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Mick_Marsh]

Gav isn't it about time you cleaned under the 101:o
That there is Wombat mud. Easier to leave it there as it must multiply the structural strength of the chassis (if how hard it is to get it off is anything to go by).

[Homestar]

Correct Mick, all Wombat mud from the other weekend. It was quite clean under there at one stage. I'll give it a good tub before heading North.:)

[Homestar]

Well, got a bit more done, and I thought it may be time to start a list of things I must do before heading North - time is running out.

Today I finally refitted the modified UHF and Terraphone. Works like a charm, exactly the way I wanted. I can now use the Mics on either headset to transmit throughout the UHF. I can also plug the ipad into the Terraphone to listen to some music. Not the best sound from the headsets, but it works.

So, things to do...

Must dos-
Engine & carby tune up.
Thorough mechanical going over.
Check fuel gauge accuracy.
Fit water pump, tap and sink.
Get and fit new generator to stove.
Fit solar panel regulator in trailer and tidy up trailer wiring.

Would be nice to get done...
Finish door switch wiring to internal lights.
Fit 12 volt outlets to 101 and trailer.
Fit brackets to hold extendable light.
Fit new fridge & battery tie downs in trailer.
Build mark II stove slide.
Get winch working.

So much to do, so little time...

[The ho har's]

Well, got a bit more done, and I thought it may be time to start a list of things I must do before heading North - time is running out.

Today I finally refitted the modified UHF and Terraphone. Works like a charm, exactly the way I wanted. I can now use the Mics on either headset to transmit throughout the UHF. I can also plug the ipad into the Terraphone to listen to some music. Not the best sound from the headsets, but it works.

So, things to do...

Must dos-
Engine & carby tune up.
Thorough mechanical going over.
Check fuel gauge accuracy.
Fit water pump, tap and sink.
Get and fit new generator to stove.
Fit solar panel regulator in trailer and tidy up trailer wiring.

Would be nice to get done...
Finish door switch wiring to internal lights.
Fit 12 volt outlets to 101 and trailer.
Fit brackets to hold extendable light.
Fit new fridge & battery tie downs in trailer.
Build mark II stove slide.
Get winch working.

So much to do, so little time...




Gee so much to do...

HH is hard is hard at work to get my Series gearbox working again:( hasn't time to fix "herc's" starting problems:(

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Gee so much to do...

HH is hard is hard at work to get my Series gearbox working again:( hasn't time to fix "herc's" starting problems:(

Mrs hh:angel:

Gee, that's no good. Hope he gets the gearbox sorted soon so he can sort out why Herc is behaving badly. Would love to see another 101 at Glenreagh.

[The ho har's]

Gee, that's no good. Hope he gets the gearbox sorted soon so he can sort out why Herc is behaving badly. Would love to see another 101 at Glenreagh.

don't worry, I have given strict instuctions to get "herc" sorted for Glenreagh:D We can't have a 101 all the way up from Vic by itself can we:D

Besides 'herc' tows the trailer with "connie-sue" on board.

And we can't have Glenreagh without an 80":D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Well, will beautiful weather today, it has been all systems go to get the 'must do' list done. Got a fair bit done and a couple of hours daylight left. (Just having a beer and relaxing for 5 at the moment)

Must dos-
Engine & carby tune up.
Thorough mechanical going over. - Half done. Been over every nut and bolt under the car - steering, suspension, etc. Still got the brakes to check. I went over the engine carefully when I serviced it a couple of months back, so it only needs a tune up.
Check fuel gauge accuracy. - Done, but it isn't very accurate. I'll have 2 jerry cans of fuel with me anyway, so not overly worried.
Fit water pump, tap and sink. - Done.
Get and fit new generator to stove. - Ordered.
Fit solar panel regulator in trailer and tidy up trailer wiring.

I don't think I'll get anything from the second list done, but that's ok.

[Homestar]

Not strictly 101 related, but it's about the trailer. Got it registered today, and it got a new set of rubber.:)

Just have to figure out how to mount the number plate now that will keep the constabulary happy. That will be the tricky bit. The original plate it mounted vertically with 3 rows of numbers and letters. Sort of like...

AA
11
AA

And that is about all the room I have as there is a stabiliser leg right next to that. I'll take some pics when it is light if anyone is interested. I'm not sure if it would be legal to make a similar plate with the new rego number on it, or I would get away with 2 rows - like if I cut the plate in half which I can't see being legal.

Ideas...? :)

[Mick_Marsh]

If you want it all legal with the possibility of being told "no", send an enquiry off to Vicroads. Feedback & enquiries : VicRoads (http://www.vicroads.vic.gov.au/Home/HaveYourSay/ContactUs/FeedbackAndEnquiries.htm#feedback)

Then you make your own using aluminium and adhesive vinyl.

If you don't want to risk being told "no", just make it.

I know a signwriter so it's possible to do a nice job.

[Homestar]

Thanks Mick, can you PM me the Sign writers name and number, I'll give them a call.:)

[Disco Muppet]

And we can't have Glenreagh without an 80":D


I could always just bring an alarm clock :angel: :p
Looking good gav! :)

[Homestar]

With only weeks to go before I head north, I have run into a little problem...

The small exhaust leak on the back left hand bank is rapidly becoming a larger leak. I was going to leave it until I came back, but I don't think I'll be able to.

My question is to the brains trust out there - what will happen to the exhaust manifold if I -

(A) Try to tighten the bolts slightly.
(B ) Remove the manifold and replace the gaskets.

What I have found is that ALL the bolts are a little loose. They have locking tabs, but they aren't doing much. One bolt I was able to remove by hand, the others, once the locking tabs are just moved back a bit are all loose - that is with a socket on them, they don't need much to effort to shift them. I don't want to risk cracking the manifold this close to the trip, or I won't be going...:(

My original thought was to just nip them up and see how it goes, and if that shuts it up enough for now, leave it all until later, but I don't really want to risk it without some guidance...

Looks like all the bolts will come out easily if required, so no issues with seized bolts, etc.

I want to have a go tonight if possible, as I really only have a few evenings I can work on it between now and when I leave, as I have to go interstate next week, and won't be back until just a week before I head off.

[cooee]

hi baciat
could you use spring washers to take up some slack I did this once got me out of trouble hope this might help
your 101 looking better with all your work well done :D

cheers cooee:)

[Homestar]

As tonight is 'get the engine ready and tune the bloody thing' night, I have been going over the rest of the engine. I think I may have worked put why it has been a bit off colour under full power - I went to check the timing and found the vac advance unit is shot, so a nice vacuum leak to deal with and no vac advance.

Now I just have to find a new one... It is a Bosch Scorcher electronic version, I'll pop over to ebay and see what I can find - anyone know a part number for these?

Oh, and it also needs new plugs and leads, but I have an almost new set of each from the old 3.5 I have sitting in the garage. I only replaced them a year before I ripped the engine out of the Rangie. Pity the dizzys are different...

Cheers - Gav.

[Sitec]

Gav, if all the bolts are loose, that's the hard bit done! (They have a habit of welding themselves to the head then bringing their alli thread out with them!!) Do a bank at a time. Most of them can be reached from under the front arch. If you can salvage the lock tabs then great..... Mine has none.... Another thing that was left out. What it does have tho is a much thicker gasket that does two ports at a time. If you remove all but one bolt, with a bit of luck the original gaskets will fall out. From here you can slide the new ones in. Even if you take all the bolts out the exhaust does not go far, and there is enough flex in the pipe to pull the manifolds out and check/clean the faces. (I'm assuming both your manifolds are healthy and not cracked). Go for it I say! If I was nearer I'd come give you a hand!! :)

[Sitec]

I also thought that the cracking issue was more to do with water hitting them as opposed to fitting and removal. Both the manifolds on my old 101 were cracked just behind the front outlet port.. It used to blow on each bank when cold then go quiet within 10 min so I never bothered with them until I removed the motor...

[101 Ron]

Garrycol once described 101 exhaust manifolds being made of glass.
It is a accurate assessment .
Yes throw the lock tabs.
It is not too hard to replace the manifold gaskets in situ providing the bolts/nuts will come loose.
If it is leaking, it will only get worse...........fix it.
After replacing a cracked LHS exhaust manifold on my 101 it performed a little bit better.

[Homestar]

Bolts will come out easy - I have already stuck a socket on them all and checked, so I might give it a go. I'll grab some gaskets tomorrow. I am very lucky with this vehicle that is has extremely low KM and is in brilliant condition. It was never issued to a unit so sat in a RAF store for 20 years. From what we have been able to work out, it reached civilian service with VERY few KM on it. It now has 45,000KM, but has been meticulously maintained. It is only age that is catching things like this now. Every nut and bolt I have touched has come apart easily.

I also found a small exhaust leak on the RH flange where it joins the exhaust. This one I am not even going to contemplate until I get back, because I'm sure it I'll crack the manifold when I touch that one...

I'm going to have a crack (no pun intended) at making some new new manifolds when I have time. I have access to a fully equipped workshop which has everything I may need. I was over there tonight playing with his CNC plasma cutter. He has just upgraded it so it cuts 35mm mild steel with ease. Cutting some 12mm steel plate tonight was like a hot knife through butter.:). Got to love that...

[Homestar]

I know this has been covered by previous threads, but the quick search I did didn't turn up all the answers. Just trying to get everything straight in my head.

So, questions are-

What should the static timing be on the old 3.5? A sticker on the dizzy says 10 degrees. Yes/no?

Once that is set, what would you expect the mechanical advance (vac advance disconnected) take the timing to at say 4000rpm?

With the vac advance connected what should I expect to see at idle (with high vacuum) and if I can figure out how to take a reading, under load at wide open throttle (no vacuum).

Clear as mud?:D

I suppose most of this doesn't really matter as the engine has been going very well until recently, and at the moment I am assuming the dead and split open vac advance unit has caused the pre ignition I have only recently experienced?

All comments welcome.:)

Cheers.

[101RRS]

Gav - the manifolds are like glass and if you break one you will be hard pressed to find others. When I changed my clutch a few years back one of the manifolds broke off where the steel exhaust pipe joins the cast. I had two in my spares and when I looked at them one was already broken - thankfully not the one I needed at the time. I have the pieces and should be able to get them welded back up for future use if I could not find them.

The manifolds are easy to get at through the wheel wells if you remove the side covers - my rear exhaust bolts regularly come loose - I wait for the chuff chuff and just tighten them up - takes about 10 minutes and is easier than trying to source new manifolds.

I would first just tighten and if that does not fix the issue then look further - but a bit of chuffin just adds character :)

[101 Ron]

I just road time mine my trial and error.
I have electronic igniton so I didn't have to play with it again.

[Homestar]

I wait for the chuff chuff and just tighten them up - takes about 10 minutes and is easier than trying to source new manifolds.

I would first just tighten and if that does not fix the issue then look further - but a bit of chuffin just adds character :)

Well, just went out and had a go at tightening them up... Success!:). Nothing broken and only the small leak from the RHS exhaust joint noticeable, but I can live with that and I'm not game enough to try that one at the moment...:D

Sounds sweet, but I'm not sure if the neighbours enjoyed it as much as me at this time of night...

Easy job, even in the dark with just a torch.:)

Now, to find a vac advance unit...

[Mick_Marsh]

I got the distributor from the hybrid repaired before easter. I posted it off to a repairers. They replaced the vacuum thingy.
I have a distributor from a Rover SD1. It has a vacuum thingy. Any help?

[Homestar]

I got the distributor from the hybrid repaired before easter. I posted it off to a repairers. They replaced the vacuum thingy.
I have a distributor from a Rover SD1. It has a vacuum thingy. Any help?

I'll make some calls in the morning, but if I have no luck, I'll be on your doorstep when you get home to see what it is like...:D

Thanks mate,

[101RRS]

Nothing broken and only the small leak from the RHS exhaust joint noticeable, but I can live with that and I'm not game enough to try that one at the moment...:D

Now, to find a vac advance unit...

When loose - squeeze in some muffler putty in the joint and then tighten.

The vacuum advance should be the same as any other 3.5 but in any case AJ should have what you want.

Definitely change to electronic ignition - saves a lot of mucking around.

[Mick_Marsh]

I'll make some calls in the morning, but if I have no luck, I'll be on your doorstep when you get home to see what it is like...:D

Thanks mate,
It's on the doorstep in the bucket
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=65355&stc=1&d=1378815857

[Homestar]

When loose - squeeze in some muffler putty in the joint and then tighten.


I don't think I'll risk it. It is where the exhaust meets the manifold and the 2 bolts don't feel like they will move. Definitely a candidate to break the manifold if I try.

That is only a small leak, the big one on the LHS manifold is sorted, so I'm pretty happy.:)

Thanks.

[101RRS]

I don't think I'll risk it. It is where the exhaust meets the manifold and the 2 bolts don't feel like they will move. Definitely a candidate to break the manifold if I try.


My last broken manifold was about 2" up from that junction. There is no gasket on that join so does tend to leak a little with movement - but stuffing the surrounds of the joint with muffler putty or manifold cement will often make a temporary repair - but if not an an issue for you then don't worry about at - afterall you are not likely to get gassed in a 101.

Garry

[Homestar]

Picking up a brand new Bosch vac advance unit in the morning. Thanks for tho offer Mick, the one on yours is a different style - I emailed some pics and questions through to Performance gnition Services in Nunawading. I sent the email last night and had a reply at 7.36 this morning. I have spoken to them since, and they are really knowledgable and friendly. I have to shoot over that side of town tomorrow anyway, so it works out well.

Prices seem to vary wildly. Cheapest I have seen is $11 on ebay, through to a company in Tullamarine that wanted $145 for one. I have been quoted $65 for a genuine Bosch unit, so that is fine with me.

[chazza]

For the loose bolt problem; remove the bolt completely and squirt a cleaning solvent into the hole, clean the thread on the bolt and use Loctite 243.

The best new gasket I have ever used is Loctite high-temperature silicone.

Since doing both of the above, I haven't had a problem with either in about 80 000km,

Cheers Charlie

[Homestar]

New vac advance in, and what a difference. As expected, it now idles much better, and slower than before, started easer too, but not sure if that was just a fluke.

Also bought some other spare parts like a new reductor coil as the current one in the dizzy has a small hot spot on it and may be on borrowed time. Also a new ignition coil. I already had a spare BIM021 module and I have borrowed a fuel pump off Mick - thanks mate, so now I have a complete set of electrical bits for the 101, so I can fix any electrical fault that may occur on the side of the road. :)

Just need to take it for a road test to see if it still pings under full throttle.

[Homestar]

Not strictly 101 related, but I consider it part of the package as I have nothing else that will tow it, so here is an update on what I've been doing to get it ready for its big trip North.

You know how a simple job can spiral out of control? Well, this one sure did, and it took a lot more effort than expected to get the result I wanted, but I'm very happy with the outcome.

While looking for new tyres for it, I called up Boof - a member here who does us Vic members proud on sales and service related to anything tyres.:). The trailer had some VERY old 650/16's on it that belong in a museum somewhere, so new tyres were a must. Mick also helped me out here and let me go through his collection of 750/16's in which I found some tyres, but after going over things with Boof, decided to keep one of those as a spare, and bite the bullet and buy 2 new tyres. Big thanks to Mick as well.:)

So, some 235/85R16's were selected as these are very close to the same diameter as the 750/16 I now have as a spare. This size tyre also make the trailer sit level with the 101 as it was slightly low before. Now, these tyres sit a bit wider on the rim, and there is very little clearance between the old tyres and the chassis of the trailer - even less with the new rubber fitted - I'm talking just a couple of mm here, the wheel would turn, but it wouldn't need the suspension to move much and it would rub or get caught somewhere. I knew this before I started, so the solution to this was already brewing in my mind.

Now, before I go any further, I procrastinated about putting this up here, as I know there are going to be knockers of what I have done to remedy this, but in a nutshell what I have done works very well, is strong and safe. No further correspondence will be entered into here....:D

Solution - spacers... Yes, yes, I know - hold your tongue until the end....:D. I made up a 12mm spacer for the wheels, and this also meant I needed a 12mm spacer for the spigot, and 12mm longer wheel studs. All of which I have done. So here's a few pics...

Before.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/2A5AF65C-E947-472D-A953-042D62237D23-8184-00000A246B8C781A_zps9167170e.jpg

Bits used - having access to a CNC plasma cutter helps when you do jobs like this...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/656.jpg

During.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/657.jpg

After.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/658.jpg

As you can see, if it wasn't for the shiny bits, you would never know what I did. The new wheel studs are just some grade 8 bolts, and I got lucky and these sit dead flat on the back of the hub, and just snag a casting rib when you try to turn them, so you can get the wheel nuts on and off fine.

I will need to get something bent up to act as flares for the guards as the tyres stick out a long way now - they stuck out a bit before, but now they are WAAAY out there...

While I had the hubs off, I checked the bearings and regreased them, but they were all in good nick anyway.

I also resolved the issue of where to put the number plate. I have welded a small bracket on the back of the stabiliser and screwed the plate to that.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/0FE0AE39-F431-453D-A34C-B6E78F6E8A3E-8184-00000A2479131446_zps507cb5a7.jpg

So, all in all, the trailer is now 100% mechanically ready for the trip, and registered, so that should keep NSW constabulary at bay.:) I just have to do some wiring for the solar panel and fridge that will be in there, and I'm done.:)

[101RRS]

Norty boy.:o

I used some washers as spacers on my old trailer to get that little bit of extra clearance that I needed. :) Shuush - don't tell anyone - the RTA authorities even gave it a roadworthy with them on.

[Sitec]

Excellent work! Just a thought tho... Would LWB rims not have done the same job? Having access to a plate cutter is very useful.. Currently drawing up my new bumper on a sheet of 3mm as it'd cost too much to go find a guy to load the drawing in and then cut it out! :)

[Homestar]

Just a thought tho... Would LWB rims not have done the same job?

Maybe, but I was working with what I had. The rims on the trailer, and the spare rims I have from my Series III - one of which is now the spare for the trailer are all the same, so it was easier for me to do this rather than go looking for different rims.:)

The total cost all up for this mod (not including tyres) was just $40 for all the bolts I had to buy, so it was cheap too. If you had to pay for the spacers to be made, then maybe it would have been a different story, but I'm a tight arse and I'm always looking to do deals and barter, so the guy who owns the machine shop owes me quite a few favours for things like new power points, etc installed in his workshop over the years that I have never charged him labour on. :)

[Sitec]

That makes sense.. Things are always better when they're free or you can do it yourself! It's been a good day today... Finally got back to mine! The first time in a week!

[Homestar]

So, my 101 has a name!!!!!

As we were finishing packing, Mrs HH asked if anyone had come up with anything to which I replied no. A short discussion on how a 101 should have a tough name and how the HH's 'Herc' had been named followed.

Then, Pedro hit it straight away - CHUCK, as in Chuck Norris, because nothing is tougher than Chuck Norris...:D. Or it could be CHUCKY - as in this likeable fellow...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=66791&d=1381308087

So there you go - Chuck or Chucky it is.:)

Thanks Pedro.

[101 Ron]

The cat dragged this into my front yard today.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/101%20Ron%202/001_zpsea31c558.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/001_zpsea31c558.jpg.html)

I gave the owner a drive of a real 101, but he needed to eat extra spinach to steer my 101 with the wider rubber but other wise seemed to be happy.

[Homestar]

I see you found your camera.:)

Yes, Your machine certainly does have Armstrong steering. It took quite an extra grunt to get it around the corners.:D

It is a very well set up and sorted vehicle, and there are lots of ideas and advice you gave me that I will be doing.

The first thing will be a pair of those marine vents you have in the front - they are fantastic, and a real simple solution to getting air into the cab. They just push all the hot air out the windows, and I really could have used those on my last couple of hours in the car today - it got quite hot this arvo and I did start to cook a bit.

Thanks heaps for taking so much time out of your day to show me your toys - I really did appreciate it mate.:)

[101RRS]

I see you found your camera.:)

Yes and in focus for once :wasntme:

[101 Ron]

Gav did you notice any real differences in the gearing ????? with the bigger rubber.
My 101 has taller transfercase gears too.

[101RRS]

Gav did you notice any real differences in the gearing ????? with the bigger rubber.


I think you will find the Michelins are the same diameter, even a tad bigger than your Simexs.

[Homestar]

Gav did you notice any real differences in the gearing ????? with the bigger rubber.
My 101 has taller transfercase gears too.

I think the gearing felt very similar. I found pulling away in second to be similar to mine when I don't have the trailer on.

[Homestar]

Just about got all the bits for the next project on Chucky - endless air.:)

I already had stashed away a York style AC compressor from the old 3.5 that came out of the Rangie. It is a big sucker with its own sump and oil supply, so perfect for this application. It was sill pumping the AC up in no time in the Rangie when I ripped it out, so no probs there. I also have all the mounts, pullys and belts to bolt it straight onto the 101's engine. I'll have to move the alternator from its current position, but I have the 55 amp Bosch unit and mounts from the old engine too. May even stick the power steering pump on at the same time, but leave the belt off - ready to go for the power steering conversion then. :)

I got an old workshop compressor that had a stuffed manifold on it today, and salvaged the tank and pressure switch/unloader. It is a 24 ltr tank in good nick.

Just have to work out where to stick the tank - I have a couple of options here though, so no biggy. I was thinking of putting the pressure switch somewhere out of the way so it doesn't get wet or dirty. Thinking of mounting it in the battery box or something like that.

Just got to grab some fittings and stick it all in. Thinking of mounting an air fitting in each of the little boxes behind the rear wheels, and I can keep an air hose in there too.

Once it is all in I can stick a big arse air horn up the front like Ron has got.:)

Cheers - Babs.

[101 Ron]

Gav, did you get a look at what I had done ?

The tank, one way valve, pressure switch, drain valve and everything else you could think of came from a cheapo portable 12 volt aircompressor with 12lt tank.
I took off the 12volt compressor and used it on something else.
I used the tank gear on the 101 using the pressure switch from the tank to operate the A/C compressor clutch.
I was able to fit the tank between the front chassis rails just behind the front bumper in front of the radiator.
I read the tank pressure from the standard gauge that came with the tank though the front grill of the 101.
The air outlet is also thought the front grill and the quick release fitting sits very well in the mesh of the grill.
My air horn and solenoid is also mounted with the air tank.
The whole lot comes out as a unit with only a few pop rivets holding the whole thing in place.
The system has been working without trouble for years.
I should add I run between 110 to 150 psi in the tank so a small micro spray paint gun air pressure regulator/water separater is also mounted on the tank for the ARB diff locker which needs a clean 90 psi.
Its compact and uses room in the front of the 101 which is normally wasted and causes not access issue to any other part of the vehicle.

[101 Ron]

I found it easy to have the one outlet at the front of the 101 and carry a seven mtr hose of small light design that stores well with the spare wheel behind the drive and access it thought the spare wheel door on the drivers side.
The seven mtr hose is long enough to pump up the trailers tyres and anyone else tyres around me.

this pick is the tank being fitted.
You can see the flat plate on top of the tank where the 12 volt compressor that came with the tank was removed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1566.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006029.jpg.html)

This pic show the mounting arrangement and the horn.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1567.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006030.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

my crank handle still works and a short hose extension is run though to the front grill to a quick release fitting.
These pics show my A/C compressor arrangement.
I used a Nippondenso piston compressor with oil sump like the York, but it is smaller and more compact.
I fitted a small dip stick and filler plug to top up the compressor easily if needed.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1192.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006035.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1191.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006036.jpg.html)
New altenator location
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1565.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006031.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The air intake for the compressor is plumbed into the carby intake pipes so it gets filtered and dry air.

In the following Two pics you can see a micro pressure regular/ water trap has been added for the ARB air locker with its activation solenoid.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1563.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCF0679.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1564.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCF0678.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

If you look very carefully you can just see the small quick release fitting sitting just though one of the mesh holes in the grill, just in the centre and under the cross bar of the bull bar.
The release fitting is still small enough to slide out of the grill easily for quick removal of the grill for topping up the overflow tank and cleaning the radiator etc.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1562.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCF0753.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

In this you can just spot the air hose running from the very front of the 101 to the truck behind.
( the 101 was used to build up air for the truck so it could release its brakes and be tow started.)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/11/1561.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/100_0654101.jpg.html)

[Homestar]

Thanks for all the detail mate. That's where I was thinking of putting my tank - it is a bit fatter than your tank, but it will still fit fine. Do you have an unloader fitted to yours? I'm thinking the AC compressor would be fine without it, but it is part of the pressure switch I have, so I may plumb it in and there is already a non return valve on the tank where the air goes in.

[Sitec]

Just my thoughts... Put the tank at the back... The more weight there the better..... (says the person who's putting a massive cast engine up front!!!!) :D

[Homestar]

Just my thoughts... Put the tank at the back... The more weight there the better..... (says the person who's putting a massive cast engine up front!!!!) :D

Thought about that, but I'll be mounting a decent sized custom water tank up the back somewhere soon, so I don't want to interfere with that. The tank only weighs a few Kg's anyway. If I loose a few kilos myself, then it will be all even...:D

[101 Ron]

Thanks for all the detail mate. That's where I was thinking of putting my tank - it is a bit fatter than your tank, but it will still fit fine. Do you have an unloader fitted to yours? I'm thinking the AC compressor would be fine without it, but it is part of the pressure switch I have, so I may plumb it in and there is already a non return valve on the tank where the air goes in.

No unloader valve needed.
The compressor clutch can cut in and out with the engine at idle and the engine barely feels it.
just like if it was running a aircon system in a car ???????
What I have done is run high temp pipe from the outlet on the compressor so it can not blow the hose off and I limit engine revs to no more than 2000rpm so not too much heat can be generated and gives me long compressor life.
The whole system has been running for I think 6 years now without drama and every time I drive the vehicle I charge up the air tank for the air horn (my toy)
I find it takes about 20 seconds at 2000 rpm to fill my tank to shut off pressure.
The tank holds pressure for a few days.
Running the motor at 2000 rpm I have spray painted and run a rattle gun from the 101s air .
The Bigger York compressor should work better than mine .
Having the air tank up the front and near the compressor helps keep the plumbing and wiring simple, plus I have the under floor gas tank in the rear of my 101.

[Homestar]

Just going over the 101 this morning in preperation for a run down to Lakes Entrance tomorrow and I had a repeat of an issue I encountered once before. Took it for a blast up the freeway, ran like a clock, and had no probs sitting on 110 with the OD in. Got home, cruising through the estate I live in, then pulled up outside my house to back it up the driveway, and after it idled for for a few seconds it then died...

This happens once before, and it doesn't start straight away - but easily restarted after 10 or 15 seconds. The first time it happened, I pulled the fuel pump and checked it, but it runs sweet, and pumps **** loads of fuel. I can hear it running right after it stalls, so I'm not thinking this is the cause, but definitely feels fuel related. Not sure if it is the carbs, or something else.

It won't stop me taking it on holidays but it is a bit of mystery.

Any ideas?

[amazing]

air leak may cause your stalling symtoms

I had a split flametrap hose caused this once. threw carb balance off

[101 Ron]

Just going over the 101 this morning in preperation for a run down to Lakes Entrance tomorrow and I had a repeat of an issue I encountered once before. Took it for a blast up the freeway, ran like a clock, and had no probs sitting on 110 with the OD in. Got home, cruising through the estate I live in, then pulled up outside my house to back it up the driveway, and after it idled for for a few seconds it then died...

This happens once before, and it doesn't start straight away - but easily restarted after 10 or 15 seconds. The first time it happened, I pulled the fuel pump and checked it, but it runs sweet, and pumps **** loads of fuel. I can hear it running right after it stalls, so I'm not thinking this is the cause, but definitely feels fuel related. Not sure if it is the carbs, or something else.

It won't stop me taking it on holidays but it is a bit of mystery.

Any ideas?

No Mystery.
The engine is flooding...........too much fuel.
Its a little bit like a old Jag............, just finish a run on the freeway and pull up at the traffic lights and it stalls and floods.
Crank over with your foot flat to the floor and the engine will come good.
Your carby float levels could be slightly too high, or your carby float needle and seats a bit worn.
A fuel pump working with too much pressure can cause this too.

[chazza]

Can also be a rich-mixture caused by: the choke/fuel enrichment device being partly on - check cable for fraying, stickiness, etc.; dirty air cleaner; restriction in the air intake.

If you are running SU HIF6 carburettors, worn jets will also make it run rich and as Ron says, coming to idle quickly after a run, can make it run like a hairy goat.

Is your idle speed set high enough?

Cheers Charlie

[Homestar]

Can also be a rich-mixture caused by: the choke/fuel enrichment device being partly on - check cable for fraying, stickiness, etc.; dirty air cleaner; restriction in the air intake.

If you are running SU HIF6 carburettors, worn jets will also make it run rich and as Ron says, coming to idle quickly after a run, can make it run like a hairy goat.

Is your idle speed set high enough?

Cheers Charlie

Yeah, idle is good - about 750 to 800RPM. Choke cable is almost new and I checked this a couple of months ago, and it is going completely off. I drove it 400KM today and it didn't miss a beat - also returned sub 20LPH so I'm really loath to start mucking around with it while it runs so well. It's got plenty of power and sat comfortably on 100 all day with the OD in.

It's only stalled out twice, so I'll go over everything carefully in the new year once I get home.

Carbys are the Strombergs I think - whatever it came with, they haven't been changed. Less than 50KKM from new.

Cheers - Gav.

[350RRC]

If a 101 is similar to a RRC the flooding could well be caused by a blocked / partially blocked return line to the tank.

Usually blocked in the metal fitting going back into/at the tank. Quick to take the hose off and stick some wire through.

cheers, DL

[Homestar]

Well, had a minor moment with the 101 yesterday on the way back from its 800KM Christmas run to Lakes Entrance, round and about there for a week and back again. Only had it stall once as described earlier, and it started straight away, so still need to narrow that one down.

Anyway, coming down a hill this side of Moe, overdrive in doing about 105 ish. All of a sudden, there is a 'bang bang bang' noise coming from the gearbox area... I'm thinking 'oh crap, I've killed the OD' - I had been giving the car a bit of a hard time the previous hour on the back roads between Stratford and Moe - so I drop it out and pray that it will work without it - just as I was doing this, there was one loud bang, then all went quiet. I gingerly let the clutch out and checked if I had drive - I did, whew...

I pulled over to have a look at what had happened, and found the rubber boot that goes over the splines on the front drive shaft has completely gone - apart from the wire clamps and a bit of rubber under them, completely not there. There is now just a huge grease stain accross the gearbox and everywhere else...

So, I'm guessing it split, and was flapping around belting against the gearbox for a few seconds before being deposited on the road.

So, I check the driveshaft - seems fine, a little bit of play in the splines, but nothing out of the ordinary, and head off again. I take it easy for the rest of the trip and give the OD a break, and home safely.

That's really the biggest scare its given me so far, and I hope it's the last for a while. So, I've got to sort that before I drive it on he dirt, but apart from that, it was a pleasure to drive and still puts a smile on my face every time I drive it.

Mum thought I was nuts driving it down there and was horrified when she asked about its fuel consumption...:D. But, Cam (My Son) slept in the back of it every night and loved it - he is passionate about it too, which I'm stoked with.:)

Heading to bed soon, don't think I'll make it to midnight, so have yourselves a great new year all.:)

Cheers - Gav.

[Homestar]

Ok, continuing on from previous posts about this, I've got everything sitting there so now it's time to stuff it all in and get it to work.... But... I've run into a problem already.

From the looks of the layout of the old 3.5 from the Rangie, I'm going to need to install the power steering pump to get all the belts and pulleys to work. Eventually, I may put power steering on the 101 but for now, how do I get away with running the PS pump when the fluid won't go anywhere? Only think I can think of is to fabricate an idler pulley for that spot at the moment, and when the time comes, replace it with the PS pump.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

[rangieman]

Ok, continuing on from previous posts about this, I've got everything sitting there so now it's time to stuff it all in and get it to work.... But... I've run into a problem already.

From the looks of the layout of the old 3.5 from the Rangie, I'm going to need to install the power steering pump to get all the belts and pulleys to work. Eventually, I may put power steering on the 101 but for now, how do I get away with running the PS pump when the fluid won't go anywhere? Only think I can think of is to fabricate an idler pulley for that spot at the moment, and when the time comes, replace it with the PS pump.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

Maybe loop the pipe back in to the pump to keep circulation , in theory:angel:

[Homestar]

Maybe loop the pipe back in to the pump to keep circulation , in theory:angel:

Yeah, I had that though too - anyone done it? Just wondering if it would heat up too much - maybe run it through an oil cooler...:D

[Brute]

Could run the sump oil through the ps pump and through a filter & Cooler for extra filtration and cooling

[Sitec]

The ambo's had a nice piston pump mounted to the front of the V8 which had an AC type clutch of the front. I had one on the Nissan and the V8 before that. It had a single V belt and used a Tdi type idler to tension it.. (Sadly no pics).. whats on Ghosts or Pilbara Andys? You shouldn't have to fit the PAS pump to rum air. Your other option is to fit the tank and most of the pipework and just pressurise it before going anywhere. A 20 litre tank with 150 psi will do quite a bit of work! :)

[Homestar]

Could run the sump oil through the ps pump and through a filter & Cooler for extra filtration and cooling

There's a thought...


The ambo's had a nice piston pump mounted to the front of the V8 which had an AC type clutch of the front. I had one on the Nissan and the V8 before that. It had a single V belt and used a Tdi type idler to tension it.. (Sadly no pics).. whats on Ghosts or Pilbara Andys? You shouldn't have to fit the PAS pump to rum air. Your other option is to fit the tank and most of the pipework and just pressurise it before going anywhere. A 20 litre tank with 150 psi will do quite a bit of work! :)

Yeah, but not really practical. Most of my outings so far have been for several days to several weeks. Next 2 decent trips I have planned will be for a week or more. Not sure how many times I could pump up the 36" XZL's from 25 to 40 PSI on one tankful, let alone run a truck air horn...:angel::D

[Homestar]

Could run the sump oil through the ps pump and through a filter & Cooler for extra filtration and cooling

Ok, let's take that though one step further. Been thinking about how to keep the transfer/OD oil cooler. You think I could pull oil from the TC, through the PS pump, through a cooler and back to the TC???

Maybe take the oil from the bottom of the TC, and return the cool oil back into the OD? I would think I would have to restrict the amount of oil flowing through the system as there is only a small hole for the oil to spill over and get back to the TC....

Could solve two problems at once, but im sure i would create others... Just thinking out loud... :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Ok, let's take that though one step further. Been thinking about how to keep the transfer/OD oil cooler. You think I could pull oil from the TC, through the PS pump, through a cooler and back to the TC???

Maybe take the oil from the bottom of the TC, and return the cool oil back into the OD? I would think I would have to restrict the amount of oil flowing through the system as there is only a small hole for the oil to spill over and get back to the TC....

Could solve two problems at once, but im sure i would create others... Just thinking out loud... :D
Would the volume that the pump pumps be able to flow from the overdrive into the transfer case unrestricted? I don't think the orifices are designed for that high a volume.

[Brute]

The power steering pump would struggle pumping 80/90 gear oil.
But would be ok with engine oil

[DasLandRoverMan]

Good thing it runs 20w/50 then? Would it really do any harm to run the cooler oil back into the transfer box? The O/D would still benefit from the cooler oil circulating back round, without worrying the O/D can't spill back into the transfer box fast enough.

Nothing wrong with looping the pump back round to the reservoir though, there's no restriction to push against so the pump just circulates the fluid quite happily.

I've heard of people packing them with grease etc followed by failures within a few thousand miles.

[Homestar]

Would the volume that the pump pumps be able to flow from the overdrive into the transfer case unrestricted? I don't think the orifices are designed for that high a volume.

Yeah, a restricter or something would be required, or as DasLRman said, I could run it back into the TC.


The power steering pump would struggle pumping 80/90 gear oil.
But would be ok with engine oil

As mentioned, the LT95 runs engine oil - check to make sure no one has used gear oil in yours or it will be on borrowed time.

[Sitec]

I've heard of people packing them with grease etc followed by failures within a few thousand miles.

Won't be doing that then!!!:D Um, without pointing out the obvious here, why not just do the power steering conversion then there's no prob.. The time spent putting the pump on and plumbing it to a loop etc would have the steering box nearly fitted... Not only that, you can do a detailed thread so I can copy it in a few weeks!!! :p Which yay are you planning to do the PAS? Like this? :)

[Homestar]

Won't be doing that then!!!:D Um, without pointing out the obvious here, why not just do the power steering conversion then there's no prob.. The time spent putting the pump on and plumbing it to a loop etc would have the steering box nearly fitted... Not only that, you can do a detailed thread so I can copy it in a few weeks!!! :p Which yay are you planning to do the PAS? Like this? :)

Several reasons I won't be doing the PS conversion yet. First is that I don't have any of the parts at the moment and only want the 101 off the road for a minimum amount of time - I drive it every weekend, so I'd miss it too much...:D, second is I don't have the money to buy the parts, and third is I'm still not 100% convinced I'll be doing it yet...

If/when I do, I'll be paying AJ to do the hard work as he has done a few now and I like the way it can be returned to standard very easily if required - there is no butchering involved, just a couple of brackets and holes.:).

[DasLandRoverMan]

There's got to be less horrible ways of doing PAS on a 101 than sawing a big chunk out of the chassis like that.

I'll let you know how I get on in that department.

[Brute]

Good thing it runs 20w/50 then? Would it really do any harm to run the cooler oil back into the transfer box? The O/D would still benefit from the cooler oil circulating back round, without worrying the O/D can't spill back into the transfer box fast enough.

Nothing wrong with looping the pump back round to the reservoir though, there's no restriction to push against so the pump just circulates the fluid quite happily.

I've heard of people packing them with grease etc followed by failures within a few thousand miles.

Yes sorry thinking of lt230.
Think my lt 95 has ATF fluid in it looking at the colour of the leaks.
Not sure how much oil the ps pump moves but if you restrict the flow the ps pump relief valve will stay open and create more heat than it's trying to cool.

But as you say it's not going to hurt it just circulating from reservoir and back as that's what it does most of the time anyway on the steering.

[Homestar]

Yeah, true, I may just recirculate it and keep an eye on the temp to make sure it doesn't heat up too much, but as you say, when cruising down the freeway, the pump would be doing just that anyway.

Cheers guys, I'll post some pics as I go - I'll start by mounting the tank up tomorrow, then see if I can work out how all the brackets attach to the engine - I pulled them all off the old Rangie engine and chucked them in a box, so I really can't remember how it all went...:D

Anyone got any photos of the front of a V belt pulley system on a 3.5 they can post for me?:)

[Mick_Marsh]

Yeah, true, I may just recirculate it and keep an eye on the temp to make sure it doesn't heat up too much, but as you say, when cruising down the freeway, the pump would be doing just that anyway.

Cheers guys, I'll post some pics as I go - I'll start by mounting the tank up tomorrow, then see if I can work out how all the brackets attach to the engine - I pulled them all off the old Rangie engine and chucked them in a box, so I really can't remember how it all went...:D

Anyone got any photos of the front of a V belt pulley system on a 3.5 they can post for me?:)
I can't take photo's at the moment but the 100" is in the driveway.

[Homestar]

I can't take photo's at the moment but the 100" is in the driveway.

Thanks mate, I may swing around and take a peak if I can't figure it out.:)

[Homestar]

Well, got 2/10ths of **** all done today...

Everywhere is still closed, so I couldn't get the steel I needed to mount the tank. I gave up and pulled the dash out of my Daughters Vectra and repaired the dead pixels on the TID instead.

So probably won't do anything until Monday now, I've got the ****s with it all...:D

[The ho har's]

Well, got 2/10ths of **** all done today...

Everywhere is still closed, so I couldn't get the steel I needed to mount the tank. I gave up and pulled the dash out of my Daughters Vectra and repaired the dead pixels on the TID instead.

So probably won't do anything until Monday now, I've got the ****s with it all...:D


Now now Gav...breath in deep and out....and all will be better:angel::D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Yeah, I'll get there. Just on my first glass of Drambue now. Give me an hour and a few more of those and I'll be fine again...:D

[The ho har's]

Now shall we talk about bleeding brakes:(

HH doesn't drink, I think he may well take it up:o

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

I'm sure some men have taking up drinking for less than bleeding the brakes of a Series LR or 101...:D

[Mick_Marsh]

I can tell you all about bleeding brakes (if you want to break the booster).

[stuee]

Well, got 2/10ths of **** all done today...

...

So probably won't do anything until Monday now, I've got the ****s with it all...:D

I know that feeling very well!

I've got this picture of the v-belt with my old mate posing for the shot if it helps:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1538.jpg

[Homestar]

Almost, but not quite.:). With the AC compressor installed the alternator ends up over the others side.

I did drag most of these parts out today, but again I was foiled as I can't find the pulley for the water pump...:mad:

It's in my garage somewhere - saying that, there would be a better chance of finding a lost tribe in Borneo than finding something in my garage at the moment.... Another job in the to do list....:D

[Homestar]

Well, with a few more shops open now, I got hold of the steel I needed to get the air tank mounted. Ended up working out a bracket that will bolt to the back of the front pintle hook on the cross member. Won't have to drill any extra holes in the chassis.:)

Pics tomorrow when it is all welded up and painted. Only got as far as tacking everything together. I have welded 2 bands around the tank for strength and the main bracket is welded to those. All up, very strong and won't stress any welds on the tank, so it should last fine. Pressure switch, and air outlet are all mounted on the tank, so only have to run 1 line to it from the compressor. Just have to remove the grill to plug the air line into it, and for those that own a 101 they know how easy that is.:)

Now to find a 12 volt solenoid and a truck horn...:D

[Homestar]

Hmm - what about these...:)

904 Train Horn 4 Trumpet - 159db (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=111240767555)

Not a true train horn like Sitec's, but I bet you would still notice it...:angel:

[Sitec]

There's always the K3 Train horn option.... 3 bells instead of 5, just as loud, they will fit between the chassis rails, and the price is a little better.... If you're thinking of getting a set, make sure your air tank has a 1/2" bore I.d air outlet!!! :D

[101RRS]

Is this a case of my horn is bigger than your horn :eek:.

[Sitec]

Is this a case of my horn is bigger than your horn :eek:.

Ahhh... Gav, I think someone's jealous! :D

[Homestar]

Is someone getting horn envy?:D

But seriously - after hearing Ron's truck horn, and knowing I was always going to fit endless air, then it was always going to happen. I would be just as happy with a truck horn, but for $130 I can get a bit louder. :)

I can see now there will be a few ****ed off people at Melrose when we have a sound off at 2am after a few bottles of SA's finest reds... :D

[Mick_Marsh]

Hey Gav, do you think Alien would nitice if you nicked his?

[101 Ron]

I am not happy about any of this.
Everyone is getting more hornyer and more powerful than me:o:o

[Homestar]

Hey Gav, do you think Alien would nitice if you nicked his?

Maybe not for a few hours depending on when it disappeared...:D

By then, it would be tucked away in its new home...:angel:

[Sitec]

I am not happy about any of this.
Everyone is getting more hornyer and more powerful than me:o:o

Ah, but you can take the pride of knowing you were the instigator and forerunner in all of this! :D

[Homestar]

So, the tank is mounted. No holes drilled in the 101, just mounted off the front cross member using the pintle hook bolts.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/7C76815B-EF08-47FB-93E4-0E60F7C53C1B-10671-00000D6C949AAA9C_zps2ca2dd22.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/F2CBB7AF-D215-4773-957D-EB20C6C89AB1-10671-00000D6C9EA7C041_zps215385f5.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/BB0E08EE-237C-43EF-8253-6F07BA17DB47-10671-00000D6CA54EAC73_zpsee692436.jpg

From the front it sits up a couple of inches above the top of the crossmember, but I didn't want any hanging down below. Although it looks like it will block a bit of airflow to the radiator, I doubt that will be the case in reality.

So tomorrow I'll have the pressure switch, relief valve, fittings and hoses. Then it's onto the mechanicals, which I'm dreading... While I have all the bits, I'm sure something will bite me on the arse - I'm thinking bolts missing, no holes in the block where the brackets mount, etc.

More fun to come I'm sure - stay tuned. :)

[Sitec]

That looks like a good spot in there for it! Piping is the easy bit. Use the truck type plastic line and push together couplings with brass fittings out of the tank. Just looking at the pic of it fitted... Looking at your oil cooler..... That's another thing that was missing on mine!!!! grrrrrrr!!

[Mick_Marsh]

Hey, I've scored heaps on this trip.
A 101 gearbox
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1307.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/DSC_3626.jpg.html)
and heaps of other stuff
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1308.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Misc/DSC_3628.jpg.html)

Oh, Gav, you know that 101 fuel pump of mine you have, keep it.
I'll tell you the story later.

[Homestar]

Well, went to get a few bits for the air system today and came home with this as well...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=70923&d=1389149971

Went to a place called 'Air On Board' - Air On Board - Home (http://www.aironboard.com.au/online/) - they have a great range of everything you may need to get air sorted in your vehicle, and were very friendly and helpful. They showed me - and operated:) a few different air horns including the set I showed a link to in a previous post - man are those things loud... Too loud for a vehicle IMO - they made the ground vibrate and were absolutely deafening. I settled on the good old truck horn - nice low note and although it is loud, I shouldn't get hassled too much by the law if using it. Not sure where it will be mounted yet, going to work that out later, once I've got the compressor hooked up and working.:)

It was $80 including all lines, wiring, relay, switch and fittings to get it going, which isn't bad IMO.

[101 Ron]

You have the same size tank in the same position as mine.
You may as well place the horn in the same spot.
Placing the horn under the air tank keeps the hose short and you just feed the horn air solenoid straight from the normal horn which is not far away as well keeps things simple.
You will find it is a good spot for the long length of the horn too.

As you may be aware I now feel inadequate so I have now fitted a steam whistle to my 101 , but operates on air.
I feel having a whistle will still give me a edge in the show off stakes.

[Homestar]

I wonder where I got the idea for the tank location...:angel:

I will be mounting the horn under the passenger wheel arch though - I did look at mounting it under the tank, but I didn't like that you could see it from the front of the vehicle. Air line will only be a few feet long, and the solenoid is mounted on the horn, so it has air pressure right to it so there should be no lag hopefully.

Here's a pic of all the air stuff mounted - all done except for a couple of hose clamps on the main line from the tank to the manifold and a few zip ties to tidy it up. The manifold has 4 outlets on the top, from the back they are the horn line, pressure switch (120 off, 90 on), a 145PSI relief valve that flows 10CFM, then the gauge at the front. There is an outlet at the back which is currently plugged that I can use if I ever put a front air locker in.

The braided line is from the compressor - I was advised by the air guy that the standard line wouldn't cope long term with the temp of the air coming out the compressor - it is only rated to 80 degrees - the braided is rated to 180. The main air fitting worked out perfectly with a 45 degree elbow in it. Just need to get a rubber boot for that so it doesn't get full of muck and insects.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=70924&d=1389160677

[101 Ron]

I had to use high temp hose.
I also keep engine revs under 2000rpm when using mine.
Some pics for you.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1286.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/004_zps7a853032.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1287.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/005_zps1d4c78f5.jpg.html)https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1288.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/003_zps99295a07.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1289.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/001_zps3db29aa6.jpg.html)https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1290.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/006_zps2fd35dda.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

My installation doesn't look pretty anymore as it has been in use now for more than 6 years.:angel::angel:
Gav when are you fitting the front vents????????

[Homestar]

Hmmm, started the mechanical installation but have given up tonight and had a G&T instead. Looks like there is plenty of room for the big arse York compressor to go in now the alternator is gone - I'll be sticking a 65 amp Bosch unit in on the other side, but while removing the gear stick bracket - the big ally one, I find that it appears LR in their infinite wisdom installed this bracket BEFORE fitting the front cover on the engine....:mad:

One bolt fouls the back of the water pump - not a huge issue, I have undone it far enough that I can cut it with a hacksaw blade and get it out, but that was enough for me to pull the pin tonight...:D

A shorter bolt replaces it on the compressor bracket which can be got in and out easily.

Hopefully it will be making some nice truck horn noises by this time tomorrow....

[Homestar]

My installation doesn't look pretty anymore as it has been in use now for more than 6 years.:angel::angel:
Gav when are you fitting the front vents????????

On my 'to do' list - I was going to do them this week, but I got carried away with the air instead. I'll drop in at my local marine shop in my travels and find the vents - installing them is the easy bit.:)

[Homestar]

I had to use high temp hose.
I also keep engine revs under 2000rpm when using mine.


What's the risk of running the engine past 2000RPM with a setup like this?

[Sitec]

the big ally one, I find that it appears LR in their infinite wisdom installed this bracket BEFORE fitting the front cover on the engine....:mad

I had to pull this of the disco engine that mine came with, and refit it to Bojans borrowed 3.9... I know the bolt you are talking about.. Seem to remember with the Viscous Fan removed (LH thread and strike spanner with hammer to undo before removing pulleys)and the pulleys removed you can refit it easily using a slightly shorter bolt. :)

[Homestar]

Pulling the fan off wouldn't help with the bolt I'm looking at - it backs out into some webbing in the casting of the back of the water pump - which is the front cover on the early 3.5's.

I'll cut it off in the morning, no biggy but it ****ed me off at the end of a hard day on it.:)

[101 Ron]

What's the risk of running the engine past 2000RPM with a setup like this?

My air con piston type compressor has been going for years and I usually charge the air tank everytime I use the vehicle.
I also have a small dip stick in the side of the compressor and top up the oil every engine oil change.
My compressor uses the original 101s 24volt altenator drive belt and pulley set up...........I don't know the gear ratio compared to the engine, most likely slightly higher/faster.
I find at 2000rpm engine is more than enough air for anything you may need, but heat will build up quickly as the compressor has no cooling fins etc.
If pumping tyres .......usually for more than one vehicle, a fast idle speed is enough to maintain pressure in the tank and heat built up is reduced and therefore I will have along lasting compressor and little risk of melting the air supply hose to the tank.
My Nippon Denso piston compressor is much smaller than a York
The limit to pumping tyres at a fast idle is the restriction of the tyre valve.
I can spin the whole thing at 4000rpm engine speed, but there is no need to.
I can spray paint at 2000rpm engine speed and run a rattle gun for a short time.
The 101s air system has been used from time to time for on site stripping of old vehicles for spares or replacing the garage compressor at home if a friend has borrowed it.
Its biggest job has been charging the air brake system of a truck which lost its air.................it took a while at 1500rpm , but did it in about 10 mins.
Expect good things from your set up Gav.
You will find any electric compressor will not cut the mustard to a engine driven York on the tracks pumping tyres and of cause working air horns.

[101RRS]

Ron - did you tell Gav that your horn sound like a strangled cat when it gets water in it - so needs to be pointed down a bit.

[101 Ron]

Ron - did you tell Gav that your horn sound like a strangled cat when it gets water in it - so needs to be pointed down a bit.

Garry as you well know it was apart of my design plan so I need to clear my horns throat from time to time:p:p:p:p:p:cool:

[Homestar]

Well, two steps forward, one step back... Went to mount the compressor today, and despite me measuring things up, it won't fit in there on the factory bracket on the angle it sits in there...:mad:

So, I now have to work out how to build the new bracket that is required. It will be a bit tricky as I need it adjustable like the old one to take up the belt tension, but one of the bolts I need it to swing on will need to be countersunk to clear the compressor housing... Hmmm, not sure what to do now...

I think I'll go on with something else until I have a eureka moment...:D

[Sitec]

Well, two steps forward, one step back... Went to mount the compressor today, and despite me measuring things up, it won't fit in there on the factory bracket on the angle it sits in there...:mad:

So, I now have to work out how to build the new bracket that is required. It will be a bit tricky as I need it adjustable like the old one to take up the belt tension, but one of the bolts I need it to swing on will need to be countersunk to clear the compressor housing... Hmmm, not sure what to do now...

I think I'll go on with something else until I have a eureka moment...:D

Pictures needed here.. We might all have some Eureka moments... Is the rad out to aid working or still in? :)

[Homestar]

Rad still in - plenty of room to work, just not enough for the enormous factory bracket. There is physically plenty of room for the compressor should I be able to make a bracket. I'm fairly agricultural with my fabrication, so having to get things spot on is not my strong suit. I usually just cut and weld stuff up - take the tank bracket for example - I didn't use a ruler or tape measure at all building that.:D

The bracket will need to consist of two plates at right angles - I'll see if I can take some pics that make sense.

[The ho har's]

All this talk about air horns and wistles:o

Fire siren :twisted:


Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Ok, some pics. First up is a front on shot of the bracket, with the compressor next to it - you can clearly see the 3 mounting points - one fixed, and two pivoting on that axis.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/1F6CBE99-FCD8-4F3D-BA97-653419237D8E-11681-00000E57EB0EB710_zps572226d1.jpg

Second shot shows roughly where the compressor needs to go in relation to the bracket. You can see here the upper LH pivot slot is now covered. The plate that bolts to the block can only be about 6mm thick behind the compressor or the pulleys won't line up. The photo is at a bit of an angle but the bottom fixed mounting bolt is visible and usable as is. Basically, I need to move it about 50mm closer to the engine and down about 25mm.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/B280C4AA-EA69-43A0-9A9F-31583CEA3D53-11681-00000E57F24A0235_zps07d8091e.jpg

Last shot shows the hole it's got to go in...
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/C800F301-5BA8-4ED7-8DD1-73FA195EEF04-11681-00000E57F8658D87_zps546eb66b.jpg

If it mounts where I want it too, then there will be clearance to change the oil filter and the engine cover won't need modifying. I can hold it in the spot I want it, but I can't take a photo at the same time. I'll try blocking it up into position tomorrow and take a couple more pics.

Any thoughts? :)

[Homestar]

Just had a thought. I may be able to mount the bracket hard up to the block - with no adjustment and use a separate tensioner below it. If I did this, I could counter sink that one screw, then bolt the compressor to the bracket - there will be room to do this but I would need very small hands.

Any other thoughts appreciated.

[grey_ghost]

Thoughts - mate you need to get out in the sun and get a sun tan!!! Those legs are pale!!! :wasntme:

[Homestar]

Thoughts - mate you need to get out in the sun and get a sun tan!!! Those legs are pale!!! :wasntme:

Those legs are my daughters - I keep telling her the same thing!!!:D

[sheerluck]

Those legs are my daughters - I keep telling her the same thing!!!:D

So the hand's yours? Nice nail polish colour! :D

[Homestar]

Why, Thankyou. Blue is my colour. :)

I'm just sitting here having tea - outside for the first time this summer! My Daughter is getting paranoid about what I'm writing about her now... :D

[Sitec]

My Daughter is getting paranoid about what I'm writing about her now... :D

They usually do. She has nice hands so she can relax! You can tell her it was all positive and she'll b a happy bunny! So, back to the job in hand.. (No pun intended!! :D), I'd forgotten how big those compressor are.. I take it that is off an early Range Rover? Also, the pulleys are different on your water pump... Is that the original engine? For fear of completely ruining your plans, if you have to make a bracket, have you considered mounting the compressor on the end of the left bank (where it is on an ambo), leaving the alternator and all associated wiring etc where it is, then you'd have room to play with bracketry, you wouldn't have to modify wiring, possibly engine covers etc....

[101 Ron]

Gav on my 101 the compressor is fixed in position.
The belt adjustment is done by a idler pulley.
I was able to track down the standard bracket and idler pulley arrangement from a former owner for the standard 24volt altenator which had been removed years before.
the standard 24 volt altenator used twin belts and I just used one belt.
The original crankshaft pulley was still in use on the motor so that part was simple.
AJ may be able to help you with a ex 24 volt 101s idler pulley and crankshaft pulley set up as they afre commonly removed for 12 volt conversions..............all bolt on stuff.
my motor still had the large alloy casting to hold the 24volt altenator.
I bolted one side of the compressor to a arm/bolt one for the altenator via a bracket I welded up out of dexion angle.
I used dexion angle because one of the sloted holes usually lines up with something you need , or bolt the dexion to the motor and compressor and weld together sort of thing.
Just trying to give ideas????????

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1191.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006036.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1192.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006035.jpg.html)
I will try and take a pic of the adjustment set up.

[Homestar]

I'd forgotten how big those compressor are.. I take it that is off an early Range Rover?
Yes, they are bloody huge - off my 85 Rangie. They have their own sump, and should last forever in this application.


Also, the pulleys are different on your water pump... Is that the original engine?
That is a good question. Everything points to the fact that it is, but there are differences between this and others I have seen - this unit was never issued to a unit and was a spare for the RAF, so was never painted until it was struck off - by the first civi owner - on others I've seen the engines are painted, but this one isn't, but that could have been due to it never being issued - who knows???


For fear of completely ruining your plans, if you have to make a bracket, have you considered mounting the compressor on the end of the left bank (where it is on an ambo), leaving the alternator and all associated wiring etc where it is, then you'd have room to play with bracketry, you wouldn't have to modify wiring, possibly engine covers etc....

I can't for the life of me see how there is enough room on the others side. I think I would be struggling to get the alternator over there - do you have any pics of how that was done? Remembering the compressor is nearly twice as tall as a Nippo Denso unit.

[Homestar]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1191.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006036.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1192.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101stuff2006035.jpg.html)
I will try and take a pic of the adjustment set up.

Nice setup Ron - Thanks for that. The Nippondenso unit would be a better alternative I think, it fits in there really well. If I can't make this big banger work, then I may have to go that way.

If you can get a pic underneath of how the pulleys run, that would be great.

[101 Ron]

Stand by I have pics taken tonight loading

[Sitec]

Sadly I only remember it being there as I removed the one I bought for my old 101 off a wrecked Ambo in the UK. Would Pilbara Andy's Ambulance still have one on.. That said, it was a very simple upright compressor with AC type Clutch pack that was a lot slimmer.... Will do some digging tho. :)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1186.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps7492f69e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1187.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps6b3f2704.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1188.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps186a1c6e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1189.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps8fa7789e.jpg.html)

Taken in the dark under flash so I don't know what I was pointing at .
First time I have lifted the engine cover in 12 months....I have some work in cleaning and degreasing.
More to come.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1182.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/012_zpsa536632e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1183.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/011_zpsd19efb9e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1184.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/009_zps3f954e93.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1185.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/010_zpsd235c4d6.jpg.html)

[Sitec]

Ok, after a little hunting found a pic from an Ebay advert that has expired. Complete 101 Ambo Compressor kit sold for £15 in July!!!!!! Someone did well!! Anyhow, here's a pic of the unit and the bracket... Not very clear as I had to zoom onto the little pics as the big ones had also expired. I think you'll have better luck with Ron's detailed pics! I was also a bit slow.. I have here the other type of AC pump which I sourced to do what you are doing, but no longer need as the Cummins has air already! Another Doh!! Should have thrown it on Micks trailer!

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1178.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/013_zps51cc6329.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1179.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zps020beaab.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1180.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/014_zps3e8191fc.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1181.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/015_zps31aa6299.jpg.html)

that's it.........hope it helps.
my compressor came from a Toyota 18RC motor which are now hard to find.
In the first picture above you can see alittle flat spot in the side of the compressers crank case, that is the spot to fit a filler plug and dip stick.
My dip stick and filler will not show up in the pics as I fitted it on the wrong side under the Dexion bracket making it a little bit hard to reach.

[Sitec]

Found a pic of one in situe on the 101 forum!! funny thing is its owned by a guy in South Gippsland who goes by the name of 101FC on that forum..... Ya gotta love the net!! :D

[Homestar]

That helps a lot - thanks heaps. I have a heap of brackets and an idler pulley off the old 3.5 - I'll have a look through them tomorrow and see what I can come up with .:)

Simon - that Ambo compressor is as tall as mine, just a but thinner - I'd be interested to see where they mount from the factory. I wonder if Tom's still has its on it?

[Homestar]

Found a pic of one in situe on the 101 forum!! funny thing is its owned by a guy in South Gippsland who goes by the name of 101FC on that forum..... Ya gotta love the net!! :D

Wow, they do fit over there - I'll have to have a closer look in the morning. :)

I wonder if that is the one down Lang Lang way.... Has a busted exhaust manifold keeping it off the road at the moment...

[Mick_Marsh]

James is further east than Lang Lang I thought.

[Sitec]

Poss a guy called James Elphick..? He has an air tank in the same place as Ron's and yours... but scored an Ambo compressor from somewhere.

[101RRS]

Gav - as Ron has indicated I would try and source some 24v brackets and idler. Below is the only pic I have of my engine so you can just see where the 24v alternator sits. I can take more pics tomorrow if you want.

Also I have a 12v alternator on my engine that sits at the bottom of the engine on the passenger side - there are holes in the block etc to mount stuff in this position - surprisingly despite water crossings and mud I have never had a problem with dirt getting into this alternator. Again I can take some pics if you want.

Cheers

Garry

[Homestar]

Ok, just about got the compressor sorted - used an idler pulley off the old 3.5 so I can mount the compressor solidly. I'll take some pics once it is all mounted. So now onto fitting the alternator on the other side. Ron - I notice how your bottom mount is done from one of the pics you posted previously - any chance of a pic of the top mount?:)

Cheers.

[Homestar]

Can anyone tell me how I should measure around the pulleys so I can buy the correct belt? Do you measure around the inside or outside?

None of my existing belts are close, so I can't even make an educated guess.

Cheers.

[drifter]

Outside.

I did it with the alternator pulled in close to the engine just in case it was going to be too big. It was a tight fit. Recommend you move the alternator out from the block a bit.

Best to use a cloth measuring tape - it is easier to run around the pulleys. The Aussie Bride got a little miffed so I had to buy her a new tape, too.

Obviously, if it going to be more than a metre long then the sewing tape won't work. In that case I would use something thick like an extension cord.

[101 Ron]

This is my 12 volt altenator was that it was already fitted in its current position when I purchased the vehicle.
The top bracket is difficult to see as it is hard up under the distributor and harder to photograph.
Garrys altenator is in the same spot, but may have a simpler brackets ??????
Note my altenator has had the cooling fan removed as I found when crossing creeks etc the altenator fan could throw water on the dist and coil.
My altenator has been replaced due to mud entry............check my Avatar pic.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/ron%http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/ron%203/007_zps9e35c53a.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zpsc41757d2.jpg.html)

203/008_zpsc41757d2.jpg

[Homestar]

Having issues with the photo link Ron. Invalid address?

[Homestar]

Well, one step short of finishing the compressor off. Who at Land Rover thought it was a good idea to put nuts on the back of the bolts that hold the front pulley to the harmonic balancer...:mad:

Just had to put the dual pulley on from the old 3.5 and when I went to remove it - founds the nuts on the back spinning...

Easy enough to remove on the engine in my garage, but I gave up crawling under the 101 to pull that one off tonight....

So close...:D

[101 Ron]

I am trying ?????

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1066.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/001_zpsb3cdd75b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1067.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/002_zps81279d73.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1068.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/003_zps5dac870b.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1069.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/004_zps53a471dc.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1062.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/005_zps133e152e.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1063.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/006_zps8566bba0.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1064.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/007_zps9e35c53a.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/1065.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/ron%203/008_zpsc41757d2.jpg.html)

[Homestar]

Legend! Thanks mate. That makes sense. I should be able to knock up something similar, but probably less elegant...:D

Cheers.

[101 Ron]

You owe me a beer if you get to Corowa.

[Homestar]

You owe me a beer if you get to Corowa.

Will do.:)

[The ho har's]

Gee you grass looks really green there Ron:D

SOOOO you coming to Corowa then :D if so I think there will beers all around with the 101 fraternity :twobeers::twobeers:

Mrs hh:angel

[Homestar]

I'm not a 100% starter yet - Corowa is the same weekend as the F1 GP which I am heavily involved with through work. I've already planted the seed that I won't be there, but there's no guarantee I can make it yet...

We start the bump in next week, so I should have a better idea in 4 or 5 weeks - if we are ahead of schedule then I should be ok...

Keep your fingers crossed.:)

[Homestar]

Ok, back into it today now the warmer weather has past. Just cleaning up the compressor before its mounted for the final time. Does anyone know how much and what type of oil I should put in it? There is a filling on the side, but a long way up, so it's not like a gearbox or diff that you fill until it come out the hole - that would fill it to the brim.

I got about 100ml of the original yellow coloured stuff out of it. It looks to be a lighter grade than engine oil.

Any ideas?

[101 Ron]

I use engine oil in mine.
The level is common sense and why I made a dip stick of mine.
I think on a York there is a plate....or sump which unbolts.
If you remove it you should be able to see where the conrods and crankshaft is.
You want the oil level to be so the conrods and crank hits the surface level of the oil to throw it around to the pistons.
Too much of the crank and rods in the oil and the oil will foam too much.
Too low and the crank and rods will not hit the oil and nothing will be lubricated.
On my Nippon denso compressor I fill it up to the plug on the side anyhow.
During useage the compressor will use oil and I top it up at every engine oil change using a oil can.
The oil that goes though the compressor I drain out of the air tank drain.

[Homestar]

Thanks Ron. I don't really want to pull the sump off it, as I don't have any gasket material thick enough to make a new one, so I made an educated guess of where the crank would drop down to, and where the horizontal plane of the crankshaft is based on the pulley. I made a dipstick up out of a coat hanger and worked out where I thought the oil should sit. It took 300ml to get it close to where I wanted it. I then did a bit more research on the web and found a site that shows the spec for the oil capacity of these compressors - 8 to 12 ounces. Converting that to grams, and allowing for the oils specific gravity of about 0.9, that worked out to about 250 to 370ml. Given that the compressor will run on a slight angle, I put a bit more in - so 330ml all up which should be right by the sounds of it. I've marked the dipstick with min and max marks so I can check the level when I do a service.:)

[Mick_Marsh]

Thanks Ron. I don't really want to pull the sump off it, as I don't have any gasket material thick enough to make a new one, so I made an educated guess of where the crank would drop down to, and where the horizontal plane of the crankshaft is based on the pulley. I made a dipstick up out of a coat hanger and worked out where I thought the oil should sit. It took 300ml to get it close to where I wanted it. I then did a bit more research on the web and found a site that shows the spec for the oil capacity of these compressors - 8 to 12 ounces. Converting that to grams, and allowing for the oils specific gravity of about 0.9, that worked out to about 250 to 370ml. Given that the compressor will run on a slight angle, I put a bit more in - so 330ml all up which should be right by the sounds of it. I've marked the dipstick with min and max marks so I can check the level when I do a service.:)
You know there is such a thing as a fluid ounce.
1 fl oz (uk) = 28.4130625ml
1 fl oz (us) = 29.5735296875ml

[Homestar]

Yes, but they mentioned ounces mor than once, not fluid ounces. Looks like my conversion is close to the mark, even using fluid ounces.:)

[Homestar]

Well, one step forward, 10 steps back...:mad:

Got the entire compressor system finished now - apart from a belt - measured up carefully and worked out i need a 13A1250 belt. Super crap only had a 13A1230 then a 13A1270 - bought the shorter one and found it too short, took it back and swapped it for the 13A1270 too long. So, I'll have to do a ring around tomorrow and see who keeps the 1250.

All good you may think, but not so. While fitting everything for the last time, I went to undo one bolt I hadn't touched before - one of the water pump bolts that hold the idler pulley - I had trial fitted it with 2 out of the 3 bolts needed to mount it. Yes, you guessed it, it snapped off, and is now leaking coolant, so off with everything again, and off with the water pump. Who knows what I'll find when I do that.... Hope I can get the bolt out, or its a new front cover... I have plenty of spare bits - including the front cover off the old 3.5 in the garage, but I was hoping to have everything done to go camping on the long weekend, and that doesn't look likely now, but I'll put in some hours after work and see if I can get it sorted.

Still need to make the alternator bracket as well - I've measured everything up, so it won't be too hard, but it'll take a few hours I would imagine. Then I just have to sort all the wiring to the new alternator location, then I'm done - easy...:D

[101RRS]

Well, one step forward, 10 steps back...:mad:

In the long run wouldn't have been better, easier and maybe even cheaper to simply have bought one of the new big ARB compressors with the big tank and mount it? :)

I know Ron's system works really well but not orders of magnitude better than my ebay twin pump electric compressor.

I also though about doing onboard air but after thinking it all through I decided against it.

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

Nah. On board air is good. He'll need it when he converts it to air suspension.

[Sitec]

Electric compressors have a limited run time before getting hot, after re inflating 4 101 tyres, I'd think the compressor would be fairly hot and the battery well worked... With Gav's, Ron's and eventually mine, there's always 100psi+ on tap, driven by the engine. The way to go IMO. :)

[101RRS]

Electric compressors have a limited run time before getting hot, after re inflating 4 101 tyres, I'd think the compressor would be fairly hot and the battery well worked... With Gav's, Ron's and eventually mine, there's always 100psi+ on tap, driven by the engine. The way to go IMO. :)

It depends on the compressor - my $70 compressor will do 4 101 tyres on a hot day without the thermal cutout operating. I think the big ARB compressor with its tank would be competitive with onboard air.

Garry

[Homestar]

Ok, just finished running the air for the first time, coolant leak and all...:D

All my expectations have been blown away by how well it works. Sorry Garry, before running it I may have agreed with you, but now I know it has been worth it. From empty to 115 PSI (measured on the gauge supplied - the cutout switch is 110 so around those numbers anyway) it took 45 seconds running the engine at 1200 RPM. Remember I'm filling a 24 litre tank, so pretty bloody quick! Not sure but on line I've read the York compressors are good for 6 to 8 CFM, and based on how quick the little Bunnings 6 CFM jobs run up a tank that size, I think I'm on par with those.

I drained the tank slowly until it cut in again - it did at 85 PSI, it took 10 seconds to top the tank back up. I think I'd be able to run my 3/8 rattle gun easily.:)

I really doubt there is a 12 volt compressor out there that could match this for air flow and particularly duty cycle. Also, this entire setup, not including the air horn owes me under $150 all in - I only had to get fittings, the airlines, manifold, gauge etc. I had everything else lying around including the tank, so I'm way head IMO.

The air horn is ****ing loud - ****ed the neighbour off no end testing it....:D

The only thing I'll do to it is find a high idle setup from a car - the type that push the throttle slightly when the AC is on, as at idle with the compressor running, the engine is close to stalling. It shakes around and complains. At 1200 rpm it is smoooooth and happy, and makes LOTS of air...:D

So, was it difficult - well, not so much difficult, but it took far longer to do than anticipated and I have caused a few other issues long the way, but was it worth it - hell yes!:)

[101 Ron]

Can you post so pics of the mountings for the compressor ?
Garry........ mine compressor is smaller than a York, I knew this when fitting as I had used a Nippon Denso one on a small three in one portable power pak.....home made and couldn't kill the compressor side of it even with continuous use.
The other reason is the Nippon one is smaller and fitted well into the old 24 volt altenator cradle and therefore required little work to fit it.
I know other people who have done the York compressor thing and they pump really good air, but you must have lots of room to fit it.
Gearing of the compressor is another factor.
Mine will run on and off with the engine at idle without loading the motor...it barely feels it.
The gear ratio or speed I am running it could be a factor in this.
I do know I don't really need to ever run faster than 2000rpm engine speed to run air tools and I usually when pumping up tyres etc run say 1000rpm and take my time as to avoid any excessive heat in the system.
The up to Seven horse power advailible though a Vee belt will never be matched by a 12volt electric compressor unless it has a electric motor on it so big it is no longer portable.

[Homestar]

Ok, a few pics.:). Yes, it is big, and is a tight squeeze, but I got it in there.

This one shows the general arrangement.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/1B063096-DFF6-4C17-BD81-6C7E322345B5-17112-000012FE0B4014CC_zps9922e1e8.jpg

This is the bracket I made - got lucky and found a piece of 6mm plate with the fold already in it. I welded an extra support out the front, and it is mounted by 3 bolts - all the spots the original AC bracket mounted to in the RRC. You can also see I had to mount it as close to the water pump as I could and still get to the bolts to mount the compressor - one is very difficult to get to, but doable.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/8351D5EB-8544-425F-96C2-89D80848AF7C-17112-000012FE10C54FF7_zps9e7b70f4.jpg

This shows the clearance to the chassis and body - plenty of room, but it was mounted in close so I can get the engine cover back on without modifying it - the engine cover clears by about an inch.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/BE6EB640-150B-401A-B33A-A44A8434C38B-17112-000012FE1649FBED_zpsd69956a1.jpg

And finally a shot from the side showing how far it sticks up - it is slightly higher than the top of the dizzy cap, but still clears the engine cover. At the bottom, it clears the oil filter by about an inch as well, and I can still get the filter on and off.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/A952DE01-E81B-4A1D-975A-3D51FAD0908F-17112-000012FE1BDBB58A_zps3755a750.jpg

So, yes a tight fit, but is mounted solidly and should last for ages. This does suck a bit more power than Ron's as the idle speed is noticeably effected when it is engaged. Best running speed seems to be about 1200 RPM. It runs smoothly and delivers plenty of air.

Still got to fit the alternator and make up a new support bracket for the gear stick, then it should look like it was always meant to live there.

Cheers.

[Sitec]

That looks to sit in there really well. Good work! Looks like you'd be able to make a 90deg bracket to pick up the rear of the gear lever carried by the back two bolts holding the compressor body..... Going to be great fun at Melrose, crawling all over these vehicles I've read so much about! :)

[Homestar]

Yep, I've got a heavy bit of angle iron I just need to put a couple of sections in and it will support the gear stick well.

Looking forward to Melrose too.:). Although I have a decent 'to do' list before then, but I'm sure not as big as yours.:D

I've got to replace the gearbox, replace a leaking wheel cylinder on the front brakes, fit the alternator, fix a coolant leak, replace front drive shaft and fit a passenger seat that SWMBO won't whinge about the whole trip. She carries on if she spends more than half an hour in it...

[Sitec]

Yep, I've got a heavy bit of angle iron I just need to put a couple of sections in and it will support the gear stick well.

Looking forward to Melrose too.:). Although I have a decent 'to do' list before then, but I'm sure not as big as yours... Fit a passenger seat that SWMBO won't whinge about the whole trip. She carries on if she spends more than half an hour in it...

Yeah... Starting to worry about my list now!! Another day of chasing fire today! Re kindle at last weeks fire!!!

As for the seat.... Go see Radio Rentals, and pick up one of those Lazy Boy Recliners.... and bolt it into the center of the rear tray!! Problem solved! :D

[Mick_Marsh]

As for the seat.... Go see Radio Rentals, and pick up one of those Lazy Boy Recliners.... and bolt it into the center of the rear tray!! Problem solved! :D
Just what you need, a lounge room in the back of the 101.

[roobar_and_custard]

Alternatively... strip out any sound deadening and you might not be able to hear anything from the passenger seat...
Lighter - more fuel economic - quieter??

[Homestar]

Alternatively... strip out any sound deadening and you might not be able to hear anything from the passenger seat...
Lighter - more fuel economic - quieter??

I like the thought, but a 101 doesn't have an ysound deadening to remove... It would be much quieter, lighter and economic if I left SWMBO behind, but that would lead to more greif than I'm prepared to put up with...:D

[Homestar]

So, out with everything again this arvo to fix the coolant leak. Water pump off... and I get to see what the coolant has been doing to this engine for the last 36 years....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Spotless!:). Not a sign of corrosion here or in the front cover. Pretty bloody happy about that.

Looking at this pic of the water pump, the bolt I broke is the one that would go through the bottom hole, second from the right. All the other bolts came out easily and have no sign of corrosion on them, so a bit ****ed off that one decided not to play the game. It is broken off flush with the housing. It's one of the short ones that just goes into the housing, not one of the big long suckers.

So, I done really have any way of repairing this in situ at the moment, so I'll go onto something else while I think about it. I am tossing up whether to just silicon the new gasket on and hope it doesn't leak - my dodgy brothers mentality is coming out...!:D

I'll see what I can come up with...

[Mick_Marsh]

Put a nut on it, weld the nut to the broken bolt. The heat should help loosen it.
That is assuming there is a bit of the bolt sticking out.

I have a small MIG if you need to borrow one.

[Homestar]

Yeah - no dice, it is flush to the base of the front cover. I might try tacking a few blobs of weld to the end of it and see if I can get enough on it to do that though.

Back in 10...:D

Edit - nope. Not enough meat to weld anything and if I slip with the electrode I could gouge the housing and be completely screwed.

[Sitec]

You're using a stick welder??? Borrow Micks mig! I've always had better luck welding a panel washer over the broken stud. Thinner and easier to weld thru being only 2mm thick. Once on, you can weld a nut to the washer and go from there. Good luck!! :)

[Homestar]

Thanks - I'll see how I go. Really not sure if I can weld anything to it. Someone with a bit more skill may be able to, but it is an a very tight and hard to get to spot, so even with a mig - I'd be struggling. You want to pop over tomorrow and do it for me Simon...:D

[Homestar]

Well, onto other stuff while figuring out the busted bolt issue. When I pulled the belt off I noticed it had been rubbing - just - on the oil cooler lines due to where the tensioner was sitting. It clears them ok (sort of) when stationary, but the belt must be flicking in and out a bit, so that idea is no good. Just not happy to leave clearances that close. Looking at the bracket, there is heaps of room to slot the holes and use the compressor itself to tension the belt. So time to slot the holes. One down, three to go....

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/F13CFB03-C2F4-498A-B7FB-B07AA9927D4F-17837-000013B2596450D6_zps892bea88.jpg

But, like everything, this may create its own issue - clearance to the engine cover - time will tell...:)

[grey_ghost]

Hi Gav,

The bolt issue sounds like a tricky one - due to the access issues.. When I removed the thermostat housing off the top of my engine, 2 out of the 3 bolts sheared off - due to being rusted.. Access was easier because the engine was out. Here is what worked. Hopefully I'm not telling you something that you already know:

1) Get a punch and try and hit the top of the broken bolt, dead centre.
2) Get a cobalt drill bit (something that can drill into steel)
3) Drill 3-4 mills down
4) Insert an easy-out - turn it until it bites
5) Use a spanner on the end of the easy-out and unscrew it.

An easy-out looks something like this:
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/Roger%20-%201960%20Land%20Rover/EasyOut_zpsb32d8e9e.jpg

You can read more about it in this thread:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-land-rovers/171479-oh-dear.html

I tried using this product - "freeze and release" although it didn't seem to work for me... I think that I still have some left over, you can have it if you want to give it a try.
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/tomb1971/Roger%20-%201960%20Land%20Rover/Freeze_zps0faad5d6.jpg

Maybe a combination of either freeze / heat / easy out...

Good luck!

[chazza]

Can you get a portable drill such as angle drill on to the broken stud?

If you can, a centre punch in the middle and start with a small drill and go up in stages; by the time the tapping drill size is reached, the tap usually turns out the remnants,

Cheers Charlie

[Homestar]

Although I have enough access for an angled drill, drilling it will be a last resort as there is so little meat around the bolt, and the bolt so small that I could easier stuff the housing trying this. If that happens, then it's off with the oil pump, dizzy, front cover... Not something I want to risk, especially since this one has no corrosion on it and finding a replacement in similar condition could be tricky and expensive.

Mick is bringing his mig around this arvo, and I'll have a crack at welding a washer to it, then a nut to the washer. Remembering that although there is room to work, it is in a difficult spot to access to do any detailed or fine work to - I'm lying on the drivers seat with my feet hanging out and I can just reach where I need to get to. Can't get any decent access from below without pulling the front diff out...

Easiest way would be to whip the engine out, but I'm not doing that either. If the mig doesn't work, I'll be seeing how the silastic holds for the time being.:)

[101RRS]

Gav - I have had a similar issue in the past I know how tight it is in there). Really as suggested, plug welding a washer onto the end of the bolt (make sure the hole in the washer is smaller in dia than than the bolt) and then plug welding a bolt to the washer.

The heat of the welding process will most likely loosen the bolt anyway.

If you are as lucky as me - when you try to use easy-outs the drill will slip off the center of the bolt into the soft aluminium and start drilling there - and then even if you drill the hole right the easy-outs will not grip. Also to do this you will need to take the radiator out which is a real pain, so you will have the room to get the drill in etc.

I feel your pain.

Garry

[Homestar]

Gav - I have had a similar issue in the past I know how tight it is in there). Really as suggested, plug welding a washer onto the end of the bolt (make sure the hole in the washer is smaller in dia than than the bolt) and then plug welding a bolt to the washer.

The heat of the welding process will most likely loosen the bolt anyway.

If you are as lucky as me - when you try to use easy-outs the drill will slip off the center of the bolt into the soft aluminium and start drilling there - and then even if you drill the hole right the easy-outs will not grip. Also to do this you will need to take the radiator out which is a real pain, so you will have the room to get the drill in etc.

I feel your pain.

Garry

That's my biggest concern mate - no room for error with this one, and too hard to access to get it right first go.

[Ancient Mariner]

If you were to drill bolt the cover back on make up a sleeve and drill thru that.Keeps every thing central and square .Drill right thru the bolt and hit it with freeze and release .If welding I usualy drill a hole in a short piece of1"x1/8 stainless and tig it on with 309 filler rod then just tap it round The heat seems to work All easier said than done with limited access
AM

[DoubleChevron]

Go the MIG/washer, even if you have to somehow make the space to get to it. I fear snapped off easy outs. What the hell will drill one of them out once you have snapped it off :eek: :eek: Given the bolt sheered due to a seized thread, why would as easyout work :confused:

I've never had luck with trying to drill frozen fasteners. Let me guess it's into aluminium ?? Does your local head place have one of the machines that can burn bolts out of alloy :confused:

seeya,
Shane L.

[Sitec]

Go the MIG/washer, even if you have to somehow make the space to get to it. I fear snapped off easy outs. What the hell will drill one of them out once you have snapped it off :eek: :eek: Given the bolt sheered due to a seized thread, why would as easyout work :confused:

I've never had luck with trying to drill frozen fasteners. Let me guess it's into aluminium ?? Does your local head place have one of the machines that can burn bolts out of alloy :confused:

seeya,
Shane L.

X2 :)

[Homestar]

Well, Mick came over - thanks heaps mate - with his MIG and we gave that a shot, but to no avail. The bolt doesn't seem to take a weld. Filed it back so we had clean metal to weld to, got what seemed to be a solid weld on it, but whatever we welded to it came off easily.

Got to the stage that I might damage the housing by continuing, so have pulled the pin on that.

Looks like its back to the silastic idea, and if that doesn't work, off with the whole front cover so I can work on it properly.

Off to look at the workshop manual about how to do that ....

[101RRS]

MIG and we gave that a shot, but to no avail. The bolt doesn't seem to take a weld.

Bummer - out with the radiator and in through the tunnel - centre punch the broken bolt and drill a pilot hole ever so carefully with the smallest size drill bit you have. Then enlarge to the max you dare and then heat with a propane torch (not oxy on this stuff) and let cool (or freeze with the freeze pressure pack) then heat again and use the ease out - but never never use any pressure as - as mentioned they break and then you will be really be up the creek without a paddle. If it doesn't come loose with minimal turning then head/cool, providing shock via hammer and centre punch and repeat, repeat.

I have used the silastic sealer (sometimes combined with chemical weld in the coolant) and it works in the short term but the leak comes back - can be managed with chemical weld but is a pain to manage.

Good luck

Garry

[Homestar]

Just going to put it back together for the time being. I have to change the box out at some stage in the next 2 months, so I might pull the engine as well and do it on the bench. Just don't think there is enough room in there to do it properly.

There is an oil weep from the housing where it attaches to the block, so I might bite the bullet and do the whole lot then - my mate has offered me a spot in his workshop to do the box, so I'll take him up on that offer I think. Will be easy there with his forklift and lifting jib - and 2 apprentices I can grab if I need an extra set of hands.

This bodge will allow me to have a bit more fun for a few weeks and to get it over there.

Thanks to everyone for their ideas and help. :)

[Sitec]

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/E2A1110A-A3BB-4D3B-926F-2AB55911F860-17837-000013847BC41252_zps2a737fdf.jpg


Last idea to help with re assembly, find a piece of plate and drill a hole in each end to suit the holes either side of the broken one. When refitting the water pump, fit the plate and just before you tighten the two bolts holding the new plate, slide the spring washer in between the plate and the hole with the broken bolt. Then tension the two bolts either side, and there will be enough pressure applied where the bolt was by the spring washer and plate flex to do the same job as the original bolt. Use BlueMax sealer too, and you'll b fine! :)

[Homestar]

A few days ago I went to move the 101 so I could get into my back yard and do a bit of a clean up. Jumped in, turned the key.... Click.... Not a solenoid on the starter click, just the crank relay click... Hmmm. Got my multi meter out, had 12 ish volts on the battery. Checked at the solenoid and had 12 volts there when the key was turned. Tried to bridge out the solenoid - zip. If I bridged out the main terminal, the starter would run, but without the solenoid operating, it doesn't engage...

So, next thought is 'how hard is it to hand crank start a 101'. Good thought, but I don't have a crank handle. A quick phone call to Mick, and an hour or so later and I'm back in my driveway with a crank handle. Well, what a waste of time that was. Young Army and RAF lads may have what it takes to crank a 3.5 V8, but as it turns out, I sure as **** don't...:D

So, last resort, pull the starter and see if I can fix it. As it turns out, a 101 start is about the easiest thing in the world to remove and 2 minutes later - I'm not kidding, 2 minutes - it was on the bench. Checked the solenoid with a meter, and it was open circuited - bugger. Got my soldering iron out and whipped the cap off the end anyway. Tested everything again - all good... Put it down to a dry joint on the cap. While I was at it I stripped everything, cleaned the main contacts up, pulled the motor apart - it is a reduction style starter - everything in good nick, just cleaned out the old hard grease and gave it some fresh stuff. Commutator was in very good nick. Put it all back together and bench tested it - bingo, all good. Bang it back in the 101 - it is dark by now, so it took 3 minutes to refit...:D. Turned the key.... and it cranked fast and started straight away. Yay...:)

Next day, go to move it again... Nothing... WTF? Checked for power at the solenoid while trying to crank - nothing.... Ok, got a different problem now....:mad:

So, I give the wiring a quick once over and found the issue - **** me I'm dumb sometimes.! When I rewired it, I found a break in the crank loom where someone had an immobiliser switch or something in the circuit, the wires were twisted together and had a connector on them. I removed the connector with the intention of soldering the joint up but guess who forgot to do that and has had a bare twisted crank wire hanging around the engine bay or 6 months...:D

Soldered that up and all is well with the world again.

Interesting how 2 different faults appeared at the same time though...

[Mick_Marsh]

Makes you wonder what is yet to reveal itself.

[101RRS]

Ron will be along to tell you how to crank the 101 - he is a good cranker :o.

I have done it a few times when my starter played up. Can be a bit cantankerous when cold but easy when warm.

Garry

[amazing]

Cranked mine many a time. there is no "feel the compression" just turn as fast as you can. the long arm takes out some of the torque shock.

As for double faults I swapped some webbers on a friends rally car but after a few miles it would splutter badly..Stripped cleaned reset carbs then back on..after a few miles the same...turned out to be a pinhole in the rad hose and when the pressue built up it squirted right into the carb mouth..

if you need to crank on gas (lpg) switch on ign then after a few secs it will auto cance..turn back onl..repeat this and the inlet will have a good dose of gas in it ..then with crank in place turn on and run to crank it.

[101 Ron]

Ron will be along to tell you how to crank the 101 - he is a good cranker :o.

I have done it a few times when my starter played up. Can be a bit cantankerous when cold but easy when warm.

Garry

Gav I am now in the over 50 club and not the biggest bloke around.
You need to get in shape.
I have a witnesses about 5 or 6 years ago now.
I came up to 4 101 landys with a crank handle.
3 of the 101s were unknown to me ........ie I did not know their starting tricks or if they were hot or cold.

Each one started easily in turn on the crank handle.

My 101 has been started with out too much trouble on the crankhandle from time to time usually when I forget to turn off the fridge.

In fact I did this from cold 2 weekends ago.
You need to full choke with ignition off no hand throttle for 3 or 4 turns slowly .........no need to bust a gut.
When you have the fuel in the jugs......ensuring the gearbox is in neutral and park brake on, turn on the ignition and just give the crank handle a 1/4 turn with a bit of force..........no need to do full turns and strain your self.
If the mixture is correct in the jugs the motor will start........a 1/4 turn will do it .
The 101 crank handle King.

[The ho har's]

We might ask Ron to give us a demonstration at Corowa :D

Mrs hh:angel:

[101 Ron]

We might ask Ron to give us a demonstration at Corowa :D

Mrs hh:angel:

Line them up and I will.............diesels excluded.

[Homestar]

Just a quick update - nothing really to report on the 101 - still need to fit the alternator when I get a moment and tidy up a few things.

I have provisional approval to take Thursday to Sunday off, so I MAY get to Corowa yet...:)

Fingers crossed.

[Homestar]

So, last night I found out the inlaws are coming to town for the weekend.... Yay..... .. .

MIL birthday on Monday and my Daughters today. So with a house full of people we all went and did the obligatory lunch thing. After we got home, while everyone retired to the couch, etc to talk **** for the afternoon, I managed to sneak out for some much needed time on Chucky.

Got the new alternator bracket sorted and the alternator mounted. Measured up the size for the belt required and was about to take a run down the street for the belt when I realised it was 5.09... Oh well, tomorrow arvo...

In between that, Mick_marsh popped over in his 101 and I took that for a spin

So, game over for the day, but I am quite happy. Got the 101 a bit closer to Corowa and still got to take one for a drive - how good is that?:)

Below is a pic of part number 'boschstylealternatortoLHSof101'. Not pretty, but I could lift the whole car off the ground with it - it is strong as - thanks to some more bits of 6mm plate lying around.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/E7437A80-62CA-49D4-9771-57FF46965FFB-2470-0000033A1E354986_zpseef6a63b.jpg

[Sitec]

That bracket looks good! Should do the job nicely! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Did you stamp that part number on the bracket before you fitted it?

[Homestar]

I never thought of that.:D

[DasLandRoverMan]

Did you stamp that part number on the bracket before you fitted it?

What size letters would you need to fit it all on?

[Homestar]

Can someone with a 24 volt 101 or knows them well, tell me if the battery box is the same size as the 12 volt? It looks like I could fit 2 N70 batteries in mine, but they would have to run north south, not east west as the current battery sits. If that is the case, how do you get them in as they won't just drop in that way, and there are no covers to take off the sides to assist this.

I was thinking of putting my auxiliary battery in there along with the cranking battery, but not sure how to get them both in yet...

Pics would be good too...:)

Cheers.

[The ho har's]

Ours is 24 volt

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/03/1123.jpg (http://s299.photobucket.com/user/hohar/media/hercules/017.jpg.html)

Not a good pic, the battery's are on the floor but the box is behind them. I will take a pic tomorrow if needed :)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Thanks for that - the box looks to be the same size as mine. If you can take a pic of your batteries in situ in the box when you get a chance, that would be great.:)

Those batteries look like N70's? Yes?

Cheers.

[The ho har's]

Thanks for that - the box looks to be the same size as mine. If you can take a pic of your batteries in situ in the box when you get a chance, that would be great.:)

Those batteries look like N70's? Yes?

Cheers.


I just asked, harry, he has no idea, but he will take a pic and look at the batteries. Harry did say the auto elec advised us on these as they are common and cheep:D and they fit in the battery box;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[101RRS]

The passenger side battery box takes two standard size batteries - both north south - stacks of room.

Garry

[101 Ron]

My 101 has Two N50 batteries fitted with much room to spare.
N70 batteries may be do able , but little room to spare and as you pointed out Gav they would have to be tilted, rotated into place.
N50 size batteries crank the V8 singlely with plenty to spare.
Because of the left over room I was able to hide electrical gear inside the battery box including the battery change over switches, power out let plugs, amp meter shunt, fuses etc.

[Homestar]

It all comes down to what I already have. It has a near new N70 for the cranking battery, and I have a 100AH Fullriver deep cycle which is the same size as an N70. I think I'll gut everything in there and see if I can get them both in...

I'm sure they will fit, but I'm not 100% sure how to actually get them in there as the opening is smaller than the space below...

[Mick_Marsh]

Want me to drive around again?
I'm thinking of seeing how it goes towing the trailer. I'm trying to push the cooling system to see if what we did on the weekend fixed it.

[Sitec]

If it won't fit and you want to retain both the N70 sized batteries, you could always make a simple 25 x 25 angle frame and mount it on the chassis x member that's under the gearbox/floor cover.. Keeping any additional weight lower too.... That was one of my aims with having both mine beside the tank. :)

[Homestar]

Want me to drive around again?
I'm thinking of seeing how it goes towing the trailer. I'm trying to push the cooling system to see if what we did on the weekend fixed it.

Good idea. It's going to be warm today, but I won't be home until late afternoon I don't think. I can let you know what sort of time I will be home a bit later on.

[The ho har's]

Pics as promised :D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Thanks for that - they are an N70 size, so I should be able to squeeze mine in.:)

Off to try it...:D

[101RRS]

Just be careful with the terminal as in rough conditions the batteries could move a little and the terminals touch the panel behind the passenger seat - I have some insulating material glued to the panel as a precaution.

Garry

[Homestar]

Good thought - thanks Gary. Things are tight it here. Ran out of time tonight to get both batteries in - got the new Bosch alternator charging the batteries, so I'm almost back to having it driveable.

Took a bit to get the belt size right, an 11A0760 was too long, and an 11A0735 was too short. Best I could do in between was an 11A0750. It is about 5mm too long, but works, it just leaves a close clearance to the chassis, but on running the enigine, a good rev of it actually moves the engine in the right direction, so it doesn't touch anything.

Just got the shifter bracket and gearbox to go, then I'm a shoe in for Corowa...:D

Lordy - if I make it, all I'm gunna do is sit under a tree, talk **** and drink for 4 days.... I need a break....

[Homestar]

Good idea. It's going to be warm today, but I won't be home until late afternoon I don't think. I can let you know what sort of time I will be home a bit later on.

Sorry I didn't get back to you today Mick, only got home after 5.30 and completely forgot. Didn't get a chance to draw breath today.

[The ho har's]

Good thought - thanks Gary. Things are tight it here. Ran out of time tonight to get both batteries in - got the new Bosch alternator charging the batteries, so I'm almost back to having it driveable.

Took a bit to get the belt size right, an 11A0760 was too long, and an 11A0735 was too short. Best I could do in between was an 11A0750. It is about 5mm too long, but works, it just leaves a close clearance to the chassis, but on running the enigine, a good rev of it actually moves the engine in the right direction, so it doesn't touch anything.

Just got the shifter bracket and gearbox to go, then I'm a shoe in for Corowa...:D

Lordy - if I make it, all I'm gunna do is sit under a tree, talk **** and drink for 4 days.... I need a break....



We can arrange that :D sit for 4 days and talk ****....no worries


Mrs hh:angel:

[Mick_Marsh]

Lordy - if I make it, all I'm gunna do is sit under a tree, talk **** and drink for 4 days.... I need a break....
It'd be just like a Wombat camp.

[Homestar]

So, had a good day today. Got the alternator and wiring finished. Got good volts too. The old Lucas unit punched out 13.5 volts with pretty much no load on it, and dropped to 12.8 with the headlights on. New one sits on 13.9 volts no load, and.... 13.9 volts with the headlights on, so a vast improvement. I'm going to see if there is an improvement with the lights after dark.

New bracket to support the shifter also completed and installed. Engine cover back on and a quick fang up the highway shows all is ok.:)

Next on the list is getting the batteries installed how I wanted. Both batteries fit easily as it turns out, and were easy to get into place - once Mick showed up and had a look. I thought the back panel of the battery box was spot welded, but Mick said his was screwed on - and is was. Another check of mine showed it was screwed on as well... Doh! Should have seen that, but thanks Mick.:)

Yet to clean everything up, and mount the brackets to clamp the batteries down, but it will all work. There is still plenty of room for the little aux fuse panel I have in there, as well as the solar panel controller I want to fit. Should have all that done tomorrow with a bit of luck.

So, Corowa is one step closer...:)

Both batteries are N70 size. The cranking battery is a Delcor 27H-710 which is a high cranking capacity version of a standard N70 - 710CCA instead of 600. I grabbed this one from my mates workshop stand as the terminals were on the correct side for what I needed. The Auxiliary battery is a Fullriver deep cycle, 100 AH which will be running a fridge and a few LED lights. Charging will be though a simple relay switched by the ignition at the moment, but a Traxide kit will find its way in there soon. I am fitting a small solar panel reg in there as well, so I can plug my panel into the system. I am doing it that way to minimise voltage drop from the panel to the batteries - I get 17 odd volts then instead of the regulated 13. Whatever output. I have an identical setup in the L322 and it works beautifully. The alternator will do the lions share of the charging - no DCDC stuff clogging up space here.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/956276C6-B067-443C-9F2B-5D2E997BAF9C-1883-000002863AF7BB1C_zps478e5252.jpg

[Homestar]

Plenty more done today. Finished up all the dual battery wiring, checked and cleaned up front brakes. As suspected I have a slightly weeping wheel cylinder on the LHS, but I'll do that when the new brake line set I'm ordering turns up. Save on having to bleed the system twice. It's not getting on the shoes, so no biggy.

All packed up, trailer attached ready for Corowa - just waiting on final sign off of my leave tomorrow morning...

[Homestar]

So, my 'new' alternator out of the RRC works fine and provides plenty of punch, but I found on the way home from Corowa on Monday that it howled like a banshee when under high load - ie straight after I left camp for about an hour as the aux battery took a fair old charge after sitting around for a couple of days. Once the load died down, so did the noise - if I flicked the high beams on, it could be heard again.

Not sure if it is just the bearings?

Any thoughts?

[Mick_Marsh]

Could have been the fan belt slipping under load.

[Homestar]

No, defiantly not the belt, I tightened that last night and it still does it. It is a really high pitched whine - much higher than a slipping fan belt. I'll whip it out on the weekend and have a peak. Just want to get it sorted before Melrose.

[Homestar]

Oooooh, look what just turned up...:D

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/1105A89D-153E-4E7A-8112-2D9A74E83D79-5109-000006CDD6C38E16_zps6567105d.jpg

I'll report back in a bit once I've stuck it in and been for a blat...

[Sitec]

I'll be interested to hear how you go with this, as I've been looking into it myself.. I have a slight vibration between 90 and 110kph, and have attributed it to the front output shaft joint angle and having not used a wide angle joint, but Im going to have the prop balanced and Im also prob going to remove the third front leaf as its fairly harsh (which will lessen the prop joint angle slightly).. Have run the vehicle off the ground with diffs locked to see what's happening and both welded props are true.

One thing I did learn about using double cardon joints is that the shaft end with the single uni has to be virtually straight with the diff (diff nose pointing up), as the cardon has the two joints close which corrects the 'speed up/slow down' effect on a normal prop.... something that is not the case on a 101..... I've also looked at tipping the front diff nose up (as I have with the rear), but due to the axle clamping system, it has to be done in the tubes.. Will prob do it on my spare axle! Keep us updated Gav. Cheers for now. :)

[Homestar]

Ok, new front double carden shaft installed and tested. Went for a good run up the freeway to get everything nice and warm, which is when the old shaft was at its noisiest.

So, how did it fair I hear you ask???

All in all - extremely well.:). Is it now 100% quiet on over run? - no. It is however about 95% better. The only time it makes any noise at all is only at the very point where everything in 'neutral' if you know what I mean? - and only over about 80KPH.

Ok, a bit more detail... All when engine, gearbox, driveshafts, etc at operating temps.

Around town 50 to 60KPH
Before - any off throttle was accompanied by some sort of noise - from a little to a lot depending on where the throttle was.
After - no noises at all, no matter where the pedal is - its like driving it without the front shaft in - 100%.:)

At 80KPH
Before - same as the slower speed stuff. Any off pedal usage would make a noise of some description.
After - slight noise only at that neutral point. Lightly off the throttle or full off throttle and there is no noise at all.

At 100KPH
Before - similar to above, but full off throttle made no noise until the speed dropped a bit, then it would start again. Light off throttle scared the **** out of passengers and sounded like the world was coming to an end.
After - no noise at all with light off throttle or full off throttle. Only a very narrow band where the noise comes in, but you actually have to try and keep it there, it's not constant like it used to be,

Summary - I am very happy with the results, but not 100% sure if the improvement is due to the double carden joint, or just because everything is new and tight. The slip joint in my old one was flogged out, so maybe a bit of both?

Also, no vibration through the driveline at any revs, or at any speed, so everything is well balanced. I did get a slight vibration at 85 to 90 before, which again could have been due to the flogged out slip joint.

Anyway, I'm happy. From order to receiving it was just over a week. It is also a much beefier unit than standard, so should last a while.:)

Oh, and no - I haven't put a boot on the slip joint yet - I thought I had a spare, but of course I can't find it... I'll fit one next week as the box is coming out on Wednesday night.

[Homestar]

A quick pic of the old and new - big difference.:). Bolts were only just long enough - the nylons only just grab, so a blob of loctite will be required when I reinstall it when the new box goes in - should be ok until then. Not going to the trouble of pulling the drive flange off the TC to replace them with longer bolts.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/816E1AE8-B3EA-47EB-8119-668839F7BC58-5109-000006DB910DB8F5_zps5c167302.jpg