Gav's 101.

[Sitec]

That's good news! Well done, it'll transform the 'usability' of the vehicle! :)

[Homestar]

It really is much nicer to drive, and quieter. A bit of sound deadening under the engine cover, and power steering, and I'd have it as a daily driver if work would pay for the fuel...:D

[chazza]

Bolts were only just long enough - the nylons only just grab, so a blob of loctite will be required when I reinstall it when the new box goes in - should be ok until then. Not going to the trouble of pulling the drive flange off the TC to replace them with longer bolts.



Are you sure you want do do that?

If the nylon only just reaches the thread, and good engineering practice says that 1 1/2 threads should protrude past the nut, then the nut is trying to hold on with 2 or 3 threads missing!

What is the worst thing that can happen if you do nothing? The prop comes off at high-speed; the 101 crashes ...

Don't spoil the ship for a ha'penny worth of tar!

I did once, and the 90c nyloc nut I didn't replace, cost me the then-fortune of $150 in towing-fees and repairs - luckily no one was hurt,

Cheers Charlie

[Homestar]

I've got full penetration of the thread through the nut, and it is just grabbing the nylon, but not happy to leave it that way. A blob of loctite will do fine IMO. :)

[Sitec]

A blob of loctite will do fine IMO. :)

Sorry Gav, Im with Chazza too on this one.. Props are a ***** to get off at the best of times... Only made worse with Locktite.. :(

[Mick_Marsh]

Gav certainly has set his 101 up well.
From a recent camp:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/1022.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Wombat%20Camps/Jays%20Visit/DSC_4383.jpg.html)

[Homestar]

Doesn't everyone have a leather couch with them when they go camping...?:)

[JayBoRover]

Doesn't everyone have a leather couch with them when they go camping...?:)


It's not called camping when you have a leather couch ... it's called "glamping" (Glamour camping). [emoji1]

[Homestar]

There's a good reason I had it there, but I'm not going to spoil a good story by letting facts get in the way.

I defiantly do 'glamp' there is a queen sized mattress in the back as well - I like to be comfortable while roughing it...:D

[The ho har's]

I didn't think anyone roughed it in a 101. We all have queens sized beds. Plenty of room for other comforts :D Now thinking about it, getting there may be roughing it:angel: the noise and the slow pace :)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Oh, Mick - we have your cup here - all washed up. It was on the side of the track - I can't believe it was still in one piece after spending nearly an entire day there.:)

[Mick_Marsh]

Oh, Mick - we have your cup here - all washed up. It was on the side of the track - I can't believe it was still in one piece after spending nearly an entire day there.:)
I'll come round and have a coffee in it soonish. Maybe another "Blakes 7" night?

Oh, thanks all for the camping turnout. Jay was most impressed.
Now, when shall we have that AULRO camp in Yosemite National Park. I think we'll invite Ron for that one.

[Homestar]

Well, the deed is done - I've put the 101 onto club rego. Had a slight hiccup with the RRC getting its club plates, but that will be sorted early next week. As much as I loved having the personalised 'V LR 101' plates on it, it was a bit excessive paying nearly $700 a year in full rego for the privilege.

So, I'm thinking I might get a nice photo of the 101 blown up and mount it in a frame with the old plates for posterity. :)

Unless there is any interest in anyone wanting them for their Victorian 101? Out of all the vehicles I know of, I'm not sure if any are left on full reg anyway?

[Homestar]

Just have to relate a quick story that happened on Monday morning. I had organised a scrappy to come and pick up a heap of scrap steel from my place, and I had it all sitting in the front of my driveway - where the 101 usually sits, so Chucky was out in the street.

The guy came and pulled up in front of it and we started chatting. He saw my Sankey trailer and asked what on earth I would use to tow something like that?

I pointed to the 101 - just a few metres away and said 'that'

'Oh' he said 'I didn't see that' (even though he had parked right in front of it.)

I said 'Yeah, it's because it's camouflaged - it just blends in with the street'

'Oh yeah!' he said (not getting it at all) 'that's cool!'

Facepalm moment... I left him to load the scrap steel...

[roobar_and_custard]

Funny that!

I had a similar experience with the Volvo... whilst renovating the house I moved the Volvo to the top of the drive, under a tree. A friend, who helped regularly, asked some 12 months into the renovation "did you sell the Volvo?"... :D

[Homestar]

So, brakes are my next target. If Zeus ever answer my emails, I'm going to lash out on some disk brakes. Also looking at the booster as well, I think there is room for improvement there. I have an idea, which I should know is workable on the weekend...

I'll leave you all hanging...:)

[Sitec]

So, brakes are my next target. If Zeus ever answer my emails, I'm going to lash out on some disk brakes. Also looking at the booster as well, I think there is room for improvement there. I have an idea, which I should know is workable on the weekend...

I'll leave you all hanging...:)

Just a thought (Im contemplating it), as u have air on board, have u thought about putting an 'air over hydraulic' booster in the line? If the drums could be fed decent pressure they might actually b better!

[101RRS]

Also looking at the booster as well, I think there is room for improvement there. I have an idea, which I should know is workable on the weekend...

A Disco 1 dual diaphram booster.

[Mick_Marsh]

Just a thought (Im contemplating it), as u have air on board, have u thought about putting an 'air over hydraulic' booster in the line? If the drums could be fed decent pressure they might actually b better!
Mmmm..... Interesting.
I have a spare air over hydraulic booser and master cylinder from the Inter sitting on the garage floor.

[Homestar]

Just a thought (Im contemplating it), as u have air on board, have u thought about putting an 'air over hydraulic' booster in the line? If the drums could be fed decent pressure they might actually b better!

It's not so much making the drums better, although I think that is doable, but if I ever want SWMBO to drive it then it needs to stop in a straight line. When the brakes are adjusted correctly, it is quite good, but eventually, the inconsistencies of the drums creeps back in.

[Homestar]

A Disco 1 dual diaphram booster.

I have looked at that, but now I'm not so sure it will fit. I'll have the booster and pedal out on the weekend with a bit of luck and I can measure that and a couple of other options up.

[101RRS]

I understand the the master cylinder will bolt on the disco booster but some modification to the mounting system is required.

My brakes pull up no issues - the direction you head when braking is the real worry.

[Homestar]

Thanks - yeah, the braking is fine but requires a lot of effort if you need to stop in a hurry. Hoping a more modern booster will help with this. And yes, the disks are purely to make direction of travel under braking less of a lottery.:D

[101RRS]

Put a second inline booster in the front brakes brake line - mounted in the tunnel.

That way the standard booster operates the rear brakes and provides pressure to the front brake lines which then oiperate the second booster that just operates on the front brakes - so lots of boost to the front brakes and just the right amount to the rear brakes.

[Mick_Marsh]

Put a second inline booster in the front brakes brake line - mounted in the tunnel.

That way the standard booster operates the rear brakes and provides pressure to the front brake lines which then oiperate the second booster that just operates on the front brakes - so lots of boost to the front brakes and just the right amount to the rear brakes.
Good idea.
A VH44 is probably what you want. I have one I bought it for the Moke. Haven't installed it yet.
I got it out of a Valiant that had the setup just as Garry suggests.

[101RRS]

PBR have them - I had one in my series 1.

[Homestar]

Finally got around to looking at the booster upgrade this morning. Whipped the old one and the brake pedal assembly out, and measured up a few offerings I had. The D1 dual diaphragm version is the closest fit, and is not difficult to make work in most respects - I've only found one problem, which I'll describe in more detail later on.

The booster mounts without much fuss onto the existing pedal assembly, and will only require 3 flat plates made up to strengthen where it sits, and allow all the braces to bolt back on. I'm not going to show or describe them here - it's pretty straight forward and if you were to do this conversion and need to ask once your putting it together, then maybe you shouldn't be playing with your brakes. Sorry if I sound like a dick saying that, but it don't want to be responsible for other people's brake systems.

The output rod on the new booster is 25mm too short, and will require a small shaft to be turned up. The connection to the brake pedal pivot is also easy to make work and is exactly the right length.

So, it sits in position nicely and despite being around 30mm thicker than the standard booster, there is still enough room for the master cylinder to fit, while using all the standard lines. Pic below shows it mounted more or less where it will be permanently. It will actually be 4mm further out due to one of the plates that need to go in, but there is still room for it.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/A4144540-1A35-419A-BC4B-2DBCE68FB306-4495-00000DE8E724901B_zps3b383074.jpg

This next if shows me holding the master cylinder flush with the booster, but on an angle as it won't sit over the studs - that's the only issue I've found.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/A27B6A17-F9B3-4870-B8C2-BC983D29E440-4495-00000DE8F081F06D_zps99a1b2dd.jpg

The master cylinders mounting holes are slightly narrower than the studs on the booster. The easy bodge for this would be to slot the holes with a grinder and use some big washers on the studs, but there isn't much metal around the mounting holes, so I, not sure if I want to do this yet. I may have to do this, but if that is the case, I'll need to make up a bracket or clamp that can bolt onto the booster stud after the master cylinder that holds the master cylinder securely and takes the strain of the end of the slotted mounting holes. I have a machinist friend who owes me some favours, so I might get him to look at it and make something up.

So, if I can work that out to my satisfaction, then this is quite a straightforward upgrade. Apart from drilling 2 holes, nothing else is changed and can be taken back to standard easily.

[Sitec]

There's another newer master cylinder that does fit. Was having a similar conversation this morning with a local 101 owner who has that servo in his. Pete might know..

[Homestar]

Cool, if anyone knows of a different master cylinder that will fit, I'm all ears. :)

I'll be getting the plates and extension shaft made up next week, so hopefully I'll have the booster mounted properly next weekend.

[Homestar]

Quick update. Parts required are being made up by my machinist friend. He has done many brake mods and upgrades for people and says he can make the existing master cylinder fit the booster. It will require a small adaptor and strengthening plate. Along with the other plates I'll be making up, it will be stronger than factory.

Will take a couple of weeks though - he is very busy with paid work, so my favour will have to wait.

[Sitec]

Spoke to AJ today. He said to use a round file and elongate the holes in the original master cylinder and away you go.

[Homestar]

Yes, but if that's all you do, you end up with a very small amount of metal holding your master cylinder to the booster, and then you exert more pressure on it with the new booster. I didn't want to leave it like that, I wanted the retrofit to be as strong, if not stronger than the original. The holes need to be moved by nearly 10mm all up, so it's a fair bit to take out and not do anything about IMO.

[Homestar]

Well, came across something interesting today. I was at my mates engineering shop and noticed an electric PAS column in the 'to do' pile of customers things. I asked who had bought it in and what for. His reply was that he had bought it a while ago to fit to an old Falcon he has. He decided not to go ahead with it and. He had dragged it out to throw in the scrap bin. 'It's yours if you want it'. Well, with that it was in the back of the car in a jiffy. I've looked at these on line and I've always thought it would be an interesting solution if it would physically fit - which I always had my doubts about.

I bought it home to play with - nothing ventured, etc. well, after sitting it in situ tonight and running a tape over everything, it seems that in fact it could be made to fit.

Not going to do a lot to it at the moment as I have too much to do getting ready for Corowa and Melrose, but after Easter I may look at this. I have a spare steering column/box I can play with as well, so who knows.

How good would speed sensitive power steering be on a 101... :D

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/9D8CD7F4-2FF2-4564-8B17-23A1D7356310-1387-000002F22D2EBDFB_zpsacfc9a64.jpg

[Homestar]

Got the brakes working again tonight - a big relief given the time frame I'm on to get to Corowa - a week away today! :o

Still a bit spongy, so probably still some air in the system, but I ran out of brake fluid, so no more tonight. Even though I sealed the master cylinder to the booster, I still had a small vacuum leak - I could here it, but it didn't effect things too much, as it stops very well, even though the brake pedal is low. Only did a few stops rolling back and forth in the driveway, but I can tell it will stop well. I'll finish bleeding the brakes tomorrow night with a bit of luck and report back on my findings. :)

[Sitec]

Got the brakes working again tonight - a big relief given the time frame I'm on to get to Corowa - a week away today! :o

Still a bit spongy, so probably still some air in the system, but I ran out of brake fluid, so no more tonight. Even though I sealed the master cylinder to the booster, I still had a small vacuum leak - I could here it, but it didn't effect things too much, as it stops very well, even though the brake pedal is low. Only did a few stops rolling back and forth in the driveway, but I can tell it will stop well. I'll finish bleeding the brakes tomorrow night with a bit of luck and report back on my findings. :)

You'll hear a slight hiss as you depress the pedal with the Disco Booster. Re bleeding, clamp both rubber flex lines off and do both rears, and then once done, clamp the rear flex and alternate fronts. I had a long hose and a pot, and pumped most of a reservoir thru each cylinder, pouring the pot back in each time. Pedal like a rock without engine running. While on the subject of brakes, check that your load sensing valve is not ceased. If it is.... belt the plunger in 3 mm with a punch... This will give you good rear brakes, but not overkill!!! :D

[Mick_Marsh]

I'll pop around tomorrow to give you a hand. Text me when you'll be home.

[Homestar]

So, a bit more done today. Replaced all the flexible hoses in the brake system as they've been sitting there for a while. Good time to do them as I will be putting the system under a bit more pressure.

Mr Marsh came around and gave me a hand to bleed everything up - very easy process. Wound the rear actuator in a bit to bleed the brakes easier (it's not seized Simon, works like it should) and left it a few turns in more than where I found it. During the first test run, it was found to be in a bit far... Jumped on the picks and the back locked up. A bit of opposite lock had me heading straight again. Smoke and the smell of burning rubber followed - not sure what the car behind me thought... :D. Not something I want while towing the van either....

Readjusted it, bled a bit more air out of the system and I'm happy with the brakes now. :). Much lighter brake pedal, but I think I've got a bit of brake fluid on the shoes, or something like that as I can't lock the fronts, but it does stop well. I know I've got a leaking wheel cylinder on one side, so will have to look at that - after Corowa.

Stripped everything out the back and hosed it all clean. Tomorrow is finishing a. Few things off, wiring up a standard trailer plug and taking the van for a spin behind the 101 for the first time.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Today is tomorrow so--
:ttiwwp:

[Homestar]

Will post some pics tonight. :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Here's a picture:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/03/1264.jpg
This is an image of a white dove. I thought this is what would be released at my funeral. I thought of this as we were sliding sideways down the road in the 101 during one of Gav's breaking tests.

[Sitec]

My fronts don't lock either unless you really stomp of it. But, they are so much better! With the windows open, after braking, you can smell the shoes!! I just don't think there's physically enough area to lock the fronts in the big radials.. With bar grips it'd be a different story! :D

[Homestar]

Still no pics sorry - only just come inside after a big day. Wouldn't have got far without help again from Mick - I was in a really ****ty mood for some reason, and I think things would have got broken without Micks calm head to keep things on track.

Got a set of Defender seats mounted, the gearbox/TC oil changed, swivels topped up, drive shafts greases, so it's all ready to roll now.

Got the water tank on the van sterilised, and some cables run for the reversing camera. Tomorrow is finishing off a bit of wiring and plumbing, throw a few things in the back of the 101 and take the van for a run behind it.

[Homestar]

So, now I've got a chance to scratch myself, thought I'd finally take a closer look at the Toyota electric power steering column I was given. Stripped it down to the bits I need and I think it will indeed fit where planned. The 101 column will need only one cut and spline making for it, and a flange plate welded to the outer housing. I have a spare column/box so if I want to revert to standard, I can do easily. Biggest issue is that I won't be able to use the standard steering wheel as where I need to mount it puts the steering splines of the new column right at the same height as the steering wheel. Prefect in one respect, but not in another. Will have to see if I can get a boss kit for the column and use an aftermarket wheel on it. Besides that, looks very doable.

A shot of the column with all the crap gone.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/0E257B06-C9BA-4486-A1A9-B30048A07F9E-187-0000004867A4F6B3_zpsxprs6joh.jpg

A couple of shots showing where it will end up. There is plenty of room for operation of the clutch still. Despite it looking like it encroaches on this are a bit, it won't be in the way, but you sure will see it. Maybe a cover over the whole lot later on, I'll see. The end of the motor will tuck up right next to the booster.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/D4BE228E-FC8F-4900-A5E5-2DF23C11613F-187-0000004871C68F70_zpsscurjo5m.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/40A2C9E3-F4A1-4865-99B7-E1859EAD6E25-187-00000048776FAA88_zpsv2wudgsr.jpg

EDIT - looks like a boss kit is readily available for this column, so all goo there. :)

[stuee]

This looks exciting. This closer to a drop in proposition compared to the hydraulic set-ups we've seen. Any concerns around the steering box strength or do you think the factory box will cope with the extra torque exerted on it?

edit* Also what electronics will you use to drive the system or is this unit fully self contained?

[Homestar]

Yeah, have thought about the strength (or lack of) of the factory box. I'll be rebuilding the spare I have at the same time, so it will have new bearings at least, and I can take a look to see where the weak points are. Still won't want to be screwing the tyres on bitumen while stationary...

The amount of effort the electric system inputs is adjustable, so I'll be making it so you can't turn the wheels with your pinky or anything like that. A bit of mechanical sympathy will still be required, but I like this idea more than welding brackets in to make another box fit, although that system would provide a stronger box, and having driven AJ's I. Know how good that system can be, and you also get reduced turns on the steering wheel lock to lock.

Control is easy. There is a small control box that the motor and sensors on the column plugs into. That just takes a big 12 volt supply - 50amps, as well as an ignition feed and an optional speed sensor input. If I put a speed sensor in, i get fully speed sensitive power steering that will basically turn off above about 50KPH which would be perfect. I'll make sure the system works before going that far though. There is also a CAN output to the body ECU, but this is an output only for sending fault info and doesn't receive any data from anything else.

If the system fails, you just go back to standard steering, not ultra hard like a hydraulic system does, so I like that idea too.

And, if it all goes pear shaped, I can whack my old box back in in only an hour. I even have enough room in my on board spares box to keep it with the vehicle when travelling.

[Homestar]

Wow, just been looking at a few conversions using this system. Got to love the way the yanks do things. They just cut and weld the steering column shafts to graft them in, some of the welding I've seen leaves a lot to be desired. :eek:

Ok I suppose on the input as it's not under a lot of stress, but welding the output shaft.... Not something I would want to do with the amount of torque that is being applied there - serious grunt.

I've put the parts in the car and I'll drop in and see my machinist mate - who gave me the column in the first place - to see about having the steering shaft on the 101 box modified to suit the output splines on the PS column. I know he can cut splines, but not sure what he can and can't do yet.

Certainly won't be welding it, being both stupid and illegal.

[Homestar]

So, had a bit more of a chance to play with the proposed power steering conversion. Pulled the spare steering column and box apart to check its condition - it's quite good, with only a slight bit of wear on the main output shaft, but it's still tight in the bushing. For those that want to know, the steering box is a basic recirculating ball nut affair with ball bearings top and bottom to support it.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/CD85397D-64B5-44DF-A0D8-801D71E69B64-375-000000D703FD0C67_zpsn7jaejnq.jpg

Now I just need to get my machinist to graft this together... Half the existing shaft needs to go and a spline cut on it, then a suitable coupling found or made to bolt them together. It has to be fairly low profile as I would like the whole coupling to end up in the existing tube that makes up the column, but we'll see how that goes.

It's interesting to note that although welding steering components is highly illegal here, the factory 101 shaft is welded top and bottom. It's not one piece, the bottom spiral and the top splines for mounting the steering wheel are welded to the middle shaft section...

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/DAC2D6F6-D893-4EC9-9A68-C0A9F8228C46-375-000000D7095CE7B6_zpspnik05my.jpg

[Homestar]

Well, I think the connections to the original shaft should be doable after some time, measurement and consultation this arvo. I'll know more tomorrow once I visit my machinist. Should even be able to keep the 101's steering wheel I think.

Stay tuned...

[Homestar]

Well, with the power steering idea on the back burner at the moment due to the weakness in the box, it's time to find another project to do. After driving it today, it needs a few small items attending to before I head to Corowa in about 4 weeks - brakes need adjusting, the swivel seals are leaking and the tie rod ends are a bit flogged out, so I'll spend some time giving the front end a bit of a birthday, but it got me thinking about the brakes again.

Thinking of doing a disk brake conversion - but not the Zeus kit - something scratch built. This is all longer term, but I'll measure everything up while I have the front wheels off.

Will need new rims and tyres to do this, so I need to find out if there is a larger off the shelf rim that will fit - I seem to recall a thread about this, but be buggered if I can find it.

Also, if I go to a 19 or 20" rim, tyre choices become much more abundant and cheaper.

So, as usual comments suggestions and ideas are welcome. :)

[Sitec]

This thread is old, and these have prob long gone, but.. Its the rim size I was going to go for, its the tyre I planned to use, and having looked at this thread this eve, there's enough 'flat' area in those OKA rims to be machined out to 101 PCD.. Just a thought.

The OKA Forum: RIMS & TYRES 19.5x 9" 305 Brigestone tyres (1/1) (http://www.byles.net/www.oka4wd.com/for-sale-wanted-all-components-accessories/1357-rims-tyres-19-5x-9-305-brigestone-tyres)

[Homestar]

So, as Corowa is getting close, and the steering and brakes starting to feel like they need some work, I just completed a very thorough going over of the front end. It's nearly 3 years since I bought it, and apart from adjusting the brakes twice and replacing the flexible brake lines, I haven't touched it - I've done just shy of 15,000 KM in those 3 years.

So, I pulled the steering arm and drag link off so I could check the swivel pre load - both sides are good, no adjustment nessesary and no leaks, so nothing to do there. The tie rods on the drag link are both stuffed - that's where the wander was.

Brake drums off removed to find the shoes worn and close to needing replacement - the drums are in very good condition, and have plenty of meat left on them. Biggest bonus is that I have a brand new set of shoes off Cam's series 3 - 6 cylinder versions, so identical. I've got a disk brake front end for that, so I'll snaffle those. Wheel cylinders are all dry behind the rubbers.

Removed the shocks and rubbers - all in A1 condition - the bushes are urethane and look like new.

Steering arm tie rods are dry, but otherwise ok - I think fitting a grease nipple to these - as Ron suggested I do a couple of years back :angel: will sort these.

Steering damper is quite loose - probably another contributor to the steering not feeling very good - the new RRC unit I have here is close, but a smidge longer when compressed - I'll see if that will work when I put it back together.

Drivers side swivel seal is leaking - I have a new one, so sorted there, the swivels themselves are in A1 condition, so that should seal up again fine.

Wheel bearings are adjusted fine and have no play.

So, all in all a good report card, with only a few new bits needed.

Questions - I believe the drag link tie rod ends are the same as Defender items - can anyone confirm this? Edit - by looking at some pics, that does not seem to be the case - any ideas?

- are the steering arm tie rod ends also easy to get? If so, then I might replace those at the same time.

- why are the hub bolts painted red on British military vehicles? Did they really do this in service or is it just some wanky thing people do? I'll be squirting a bit of new satin black around the axle housing and brackets, and if the hub bolts were painted red in service, then I might do these too while I'm at it.

As always, thanks in advance for your help.

[Homestar]

Ok, looks like these repair kits could save a few dollars - anyone used them before?

http://shop.101parts.co.uk/index.php?id_product=488&controller=product

[rangieman]

Ok, looks like these repair kits could save a few dollars - anyone used them before?

Ball Joint Repair Kit (Land Rover Part) (http://shop.101parts.co.uk/index.php?id_product=488&controller=product)

I used one similar to this on a classic years ago it worked till i sold the car does this help ;)

[Homestar]

I used one similar to this on a classic years ago it worked till i sold the car does this help ;)

Certainly does thanks - the entire unit is nearly 100 quid, so if these do the trick, it will save me heaps. :)

[Mick_Marsh]

I used one similar to this on a classic years ago it worked till i sold the car does this help ;)
Depends on the the amount of time that elapsed between when you fitted the kit and when you sold it.

[rangieman]

Depends on the the amount of time that elapsed between when you fitted the kit and when you sold it.

3 years;)

[101 Ron]

The rod ends in a 101 are self adjusting and most likely do not need replacing.
Install a small grease nipple in the exact middle of end cap of the rod end..............ie 1/4 unf nipple.
Pumping grease into the area around the top of the ball of the rod end will greatly help its self adjusting qualities, reduce steering effort and reduce play.
The tie rod ends are rebuildable if needed and are of the same design as the others except the ball cap is removeable for disassembly.
As far as I know the 101 rod ends do not interchange with other Land rover rod ends.
As stated these rod ends are self adjusting via internal spring.
A 101 rod end will get up and down play normally because of the internal spring.
Pushing grease into the rod end will remove the up and down movement and reduce wear.( and save confusion with people who don't know at rego inspection)
The grease will not get directly to the wearing surface of the rod end straight away, but it will get there.
If you have removed the front sway bar, you will find they are the same rod end.
I think AJ has rod end repair kits.............try the grease nipple as it will most likely not be needed.
The hole for the grease nipple must be small and centred, as it must be drilled and tapped though the centre of the rod end internal spring.

[101 Ron]

042.jpg Photo by 101Ron | Photobucket (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/042.jpg.html'sort=2&o=207http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/043.jpg.html'sort=2&o=208)

[101 Ron]

043.jpg Photo by 101Ron | Photobucket (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/043.jpg.html'sort=2&o=208)

[Homestar]

Once again, spot on Ron. :)

Now you've typed that up, I remeber the conversation we had about them. Just pulled the tie rod ends apart - just gunked up. With a good clean, and the grease nipple in the back, they should be as good as new. With both back plates off, drilling and tapping them will be easy. :)

Thanks heaps.

[101 Ron]

The story with red nuts and hubs is.
The British were very much into this during the 1950s and 1960s.
Australia purchased much in the way of British FV vehicles during this time.
Australia at this time was following some of the British ways.
A good example is Deep Bronze Green Gloss paint jobs on our army vehicles, even on something like a Studebaker 6x6 of WW2 vintage and American origin and painted olive drab when manufactured.
On something like a WW2 Blitz usually has split type wheels.
It is common for the nut that hold the wheel on to the hub to be painted white as to indicate to the drivers these are the nuts you undo to change the wheel on the side of the road.
The nuts that hold the split wheel together are painted red as a danger warning don't touch.
Some times on a staff, ceremonial vehicle, funeral vehicle, the whole hub could be painted red to dress the vehicle up or to warn passengers of the protruding shin hurting hub.
On a SAS vehicle where cammo was very important the wheel nuts were not usually painted any other colour other that the vehicles overall colour.
The Stalwart is interesting from this point of view.
The split wheels are painted red and white on the various nuts and bolts that needed to for safety, but throughout the vehicle the red danger paint is used on various fittings and just like a modern car, yellow is extensively used on dip sticks , oil filler points and stuff you should check.
On the Stalwart the paint warning colours is a great help to find stuff in a crowded small space, just like the inside of a tank.

[Homestar]

So, all sorted. :)

A couple of hours and $15 sees both sides in much better condition. Pictures tell 1000 words so below is what's been done. First pic shows all the bits from one side, the second shows a bit of wear, but it's not too bad and I greased the ball and cup when putting it back together. 3rd pic shows it back together with the grease nipple fitted and new tie rod end boot. I haven't bolted it back on yet as I've still got some cleaning and painting to be done on the hubs and it's easier to move them back and forth without it. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/369.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/CE73D110-327F-4C42-A5BF-4D3B25B6E6C7_zpsto143pok.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/370.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/B945E8F9-2EDF-46A0-B782-5EBBD73AD3F3_zpslquxqjrc.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/371.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/B7D1FCF9-767D-48B7-B772-1D47D1EE1BA6_zpswkspcurx.jpg.html)

[Homestar]

So, one side complete. :)

Only have to remove the sway bar before refitting the wheel. This side has new brake shoes, new swivel seal, rebuilt tie rod, a degrease and paint. The other side will get the same treatment. The shock was stripped back, primed and painted. It was blue under all the surface rust and dirt, but I had a mid grey colour handy, so that's what they are now.

Also, all the spring bushes are all very good too - I have a feeling the PO must of done these, so when the other side is finished it should be as good as it ever was and ever will be. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/349.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/1EF33EC6-CCAF-40BE-A1CF-C45AFA219686_zpsnkm6vooj.jpg.html)

Oh, and an RRC steering damper fits. :). It is slightly longer than what I pulled off but the steering hits it's stops at the same time the unit reaches full compression so all good. :). On LH lock it is still about 2" from full extension.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/350.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/600814F8-400F-427A-83A6-B517FB816BDF_zps87gc5ryp.jpg.html)

So, now the really big decision - do I paint the hub bolts red again... :D

[cooee]

hi gav
must say you have done really great job should continue with black paint do diffs look foward when done other side
cheers cooee

[Homestar]

If I have time before Corowa I'd like to get the whole front diff cleaned and painted before I go. Now I've done one corner, I feel an urge to do the other 3, so once the front is done, I'll do the back in short order as well I would think. At least it will look mechanically like it's had some work done to it.

Then it's the winch, then the back half of the body off to....

.... That story can wait for another day, but there are plans afoot... ;)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Body plans?? :angel:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Other than yours---- :angel:

[Homestar]

All secret squirrel at the moment, all will be revealed in good time - I've got a bit on until after Corowa, so I'll be starting after that at some stage.

Don't worry, it will still look just as it is - same, same - but different...

[Mick_Marsh]

Yes!

I'd better get the BBQ working.

[Homestar]

Yep, dust the BBQ off, things will happen soon. :)

Also, I've got another question - what is the green used on British 101's? Was it just NATO green or something similar? I'm thinking of breaking out the paintbrush and giving the outside a spruce up as well.

[Homestar]

Whew! Just come inside from a huge day on the 101. Started out removing the sway bar, and tidying up more of the front end for painting. Found out that the degreaser you get from Masters for $2.50 per tin is bloody awesome - it's basically oven cleaner. :D. DON'T get this stuff near your shiny paint if you want it to stay that way. It also burns your skin and eyes, but boy does it shift some stuff! Including cleaning the dirt off the tyres - I've scrubbed these before but the tyres were stained from some mud (wombat mud I think) - 10 second with the degreaser and hose it off - they look like new.

So, having cleaned a heap of stuff, I wanted to put the front drivers side wheel back on - but the paint on the rim looked like poo, so I wandered back to Masters - with the air cleaner cover in hand - to see if I could get some paint that would come close to matching. The back of the cover had some paint that wasn't faded from UV exposure, so used that to match the colour - got me a small sample pot and headed home to paint the rim and see what it looked like. Well, I was very happy with the colour match, and 6 hours later, guess what has a nice new coat of paint on half of it now... :D

Yep, I couldn't stop so the drivers side and front now have a nice new coat of paint - looks fab. I also changed the leg on the Sankey trailer for a jockey wheel as it was a pain to move it around before - the trailer will get a coat of paint tomoorrow I would imagine.

Oh, and if you want to know how to prep a 101 for a paint job, it goes something like this -

1 - hose off spiders and cobwebs.
2 - wait for it to dry.
3 - open tin of paint
4 - get old paintbrush out of the shed
5 - paint 101 :D

It's a good 5 meter paint job. :)

So, pics are a bit crap as the sun was setting behind the house - I'll take some more in the morning when the sun is on the right side.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/238.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/CB66C2F0-CD8B-4F6A-BB12-CBC03AA0E66A_zpsbhlvvrqw.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/239.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/71E63491-49DF-403A-AA31-A04EFB10BDA4_zps3apxahyn.jpg.html)

Yes, the red enamel came out to play - I like the contrast and bit of colour it gives. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/240.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/939B6845-B0B8-4C7C-9CB5-6B6308F10DB1_zpsgcrwtmzw.jpg.html)

And the trailer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/241.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/EB4F094A-7103-43F1-8F74-E107435CB7AB_zps3igwmbuv.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/242.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/1113DA01-9C33-4CD2-BCD2-A76367361F29_zpsnre1ojs5.jpg.html)

[Homestar]

In all its glory in the morning sun. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/208.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/0F1C7DE9-FC7E-41C8-8262-1D0AAE6AA91C_zpseo3hxanr.jpg.html)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Looks awesome!!:cool:

[stuee]

Looks great! How have you attached the awning? I've not noticed it before.

[Homestar]

Looks great! How have you attached the awning? I've not noticed it before.

Thanks mate - the awning has been there for a couple of years. There are 2 brackets attached to the tilt hoops - just bits of angle from Bunnings with a couple of u bolts on each. The awning mounting bolts go through these. At the back, they go around the back of the canvas, but the front mount I had to make 2 small holes in the window section of the tilt and its bolted through there.

You can hardly notice the holes if the awning is removed (which I've done before) but I find it very handy in both summer and winter, so I leave it on now.

[grey_ghost]

Mate - it's looking great, almost BRAND NEW!!! :cool::cool::banana:

[Disco Muppet]

That jockey wheel isn't original military fitment.
Take it off.
If it's good enough for the army it's good enough for you.
:p
Looks fantastic mate.

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Mick_Marsh]

That jockey wheel isn't original military fitment.
Take it off.
If it's good enough for the army it's good enough for you.
:p
Looks fantastic mate.

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app
Gav is not a MV rivet counter.
I'd have it off if it were mine.

[Disco Muppet]

I know Mick, neither am I, can't stand them to be honest.
However Gav has met me (as have you :p ) so you should remember that I'm a sarcastic little **** ;) :D

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

[Homestar]

That jockey wheel isn't original military fitment.
Take it off.
If it's good enough for the army it's good enough for you.
:p
Looks fantastic mate.

Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app

Here you go - the jockey wheel is green now, so it must be Military... :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/189.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/DA5C8497-67FC-481A-8FB3-4D62DF6CD59F_zpsbuqfrfoi.jpg.html)

Another shot - the drawbar took me 2 hours to paint but well worth it - it now looks bloody good IMO. Just have the last 2 sides of the 101 to paint - should have that sorted by the weekend. : ). Should have a nice combo to take to Corowa.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/190.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/0369258F-0D9B-4A15-931A-1D1AA5627964_zpshq1c4o7b.jpg.html)

The other thing I did on the trailer was move a few hooks on either side so the new cover ties down properly - you can see the holes from where there were if you look closely. The tilt is for a No 5 trailer but fits the Sankey perfectly apart from the tie downs - now done, and the hoop - which I'll modify some time this week so the ends sit correctly.

[LandyAndy]

Gav.
Its been quite some time since I visited this thread.
You have done alot of work,looks a million bucks.
Well done.
Andrew

[Homestar]

Gav is not a MV rivet counter.
I'd have it off if it were mine.

When you swap it for a 1 tonne cargo, you can do what you like to it. ;)

[cooee]

Hi Gavin looks brilliant you done top job really stands out with black red touch be good if got change wheels at night ha
Cheers,Cooee

[Homestar]

Quick update.

Everything underneath is all finished and it's back on its wheels again. Took it for a shakedown drive to check steering and brakes. No more clunks when going around corners - the removal of the sway bar has caused a very small difference to how it handles around corners but nothing bad - I'll be leaving it off for good.

Steering at highway speeds is now much more precise and it doesn't wander any more. Brakes work very well again, but I had the adjusters up one click too many and when I go home the brakes were hot but not burning - I could still touch the drums for a second without burning myself. I'll back them off a click this morning.

So, just a bit of paint to finish, a check of all the fluid levels and I'm ready for Corowa. :)

[Homestar]

So, all ready for Corowa - with just a few hours to spare - whew...

All fluids checked/topped up, greased, tyre pressures checked, etc, etc. took it for a run down the park for some pics.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/595.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/8818A735-2C31-415D-BFC4-2AD6B1115D11_zps2ufevs9h.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/596.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/64B20E37-1485-4675-8223-E5D1A45E937B_zpsqvdwtx14.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/597.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/007EB131-1AFF-4384-BEF8-BF5E341E240D_zpsdq7m4shs.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/598.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/86576567-C0D7-4E65-8D0F-9775B16A2F77_zpskpqklxco.jpg.html)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Looks Brilliant Gav:cool::clap2:

[350RRC]

Well done Gav, have a fun and safe trip!

DL

[Homestar]

Thanks for all the positive comments. As most of you know, I was at the Corowa Swim In for a whole week, had a blast and met a lot of new friends and remade lots of old acquaintances. :)

The 101 got a lot of attention and I had fun driving it every day. It again gave me no real issues apart from mths brake adjusters slipping a couple of times - I should have done them when I had the brakes apart, but lack of time, etc... There was a wear mark on both front snails and the adjustment needed to be just beyond this. I fixed the problem temporarily with some 5 minute araldite on them - and that held all the way home, so all good.

For those that haven't seen the pics I took, check out this thread - http://www.aulro.com/afvb/multi-state-reports/233345-live-corowa-swim-2016-a-5.html

Plenty to do before its next outing - some currently 'secret squirrel' stuff, but I'm also leaning towards finally doing a power steering conversion - probably just using the Navara PS box and a bevel box I have from a people mover - I have most of these bits sitting around, so I'll see how I go.

[Homestar]

Well, it finally happened - the fuel tank has rusted through, I've been expecting it for a couple of years but now it's finally had it. I think I'll fabricate one up and make it slightly larger. I think I can take it out to 120 or 130 litres without too much issue.

[Sitec]

3mm on the ends and 2mm for the bottom, sides and top.. Then its weld able easily with the mig.. :)

[Homestar]

Ok, finally getting around to ordering the steel for the fuel tank. A quick calculation shows I can increase the capacity by 50% by sacrificing just under 100mm of clearance to the ground, which really only effects ramp over angles and I don't offroad it anyway, so I'm happy to go with the increased capacity.

Now, following on from Sitecs suggestion of 3mm for the ends and 2mm for the rest, I do have a couple more questions for the brains trust.

Firstly, are any baffles needed in the tank? If so, how many (2 maybe?)

Secondly, as the tank is supported from each end, is welding a piece of decent angle iron to the 3mm plate at each end enough to support it or should I be looking at some sort of bracing either underneath like the original (which causes them to rust out the way they did it) or internally - between the 2 mounts straight through the tank? Fully fuelled up I estimate the weight of the tank could be around 180Kg so I'm thinking I might wat to brace it somehow, but I'm open to suggestions.

I now have a TIG welding setup as well so I might go this way, it's been a few years so I'll need to get some scrap to practice on, but it's like falling off a bike right... :D

Thanks in advance. :)

[101 Ron]

The Australian army replacement ones fitted to mine, garrycols 101s ect are standard size and self supporting.
They are made from mild steel and are very thick.
They appear to be MIG welded together.
They will never rust out again due to the thickness of the metal plate used.
Ron

[Homestar]

Thanks Ron - I plan to make this one out of much heavier gauge than the factory did so I'll probably be ok having it self supporting too.

Does yours have any baffles in it?

[101 Ron]

It should have baffles as I cannot hear the fuel sloshing about.
Never had to touch the fuel tank so I don't know.
It appears to be folded to a rectangular tube shape and then the ends welded in.

[Homestar]

Cool - I'm planning something similar, just got back from the fabricators after discussing what I needed them to do - they seem pretty comfortable with how I plan to make it, so fingers crossed.

I'll post some pics who the steel arrives and I get stuck in. :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Yep, it has baffles.

[mark_coffey]

I had a complete stainless tank fabricated for my 101, it has internal baffles and a trap around the fuel pump to keep fuel at the pump intake when nose down with a low fuel level, it is supported as the "original" was. the truck didn't come with an original tank but n extremely rusted out steel fabricated tank.

[Homestar]

That looks like a good bit of kit. :)

I've no idea when the steel will be ready to pick up" for mine, then engineering place I use is always very busy and tend to squeez in these little jobs between their bigger paying customers. I told them 'no rush' so I have no idea how long until they get around to it. :D

[Sitec]

Secondly, as the tank is supported from each end, is welding a piece of decent angle iron to the 3mm plate at each end enough to support it or should I be looking at some sort of bracing either underneath like the original (which causes them to rust out the way they did it) or internally - between the 2 mounts straight through the tank? Fully fuelled up I estimate the weight of the tank could be around 180Kg so I'm thinking I might wat to brace it somehow, but I'm open to suggestions.

Not been her for a while, and had to go looking to find when I did my tanks.. With 3mm at each end and the sides made out of 2mm, your tank will be very solid. I made both mounts, using angle 1 end and a fabricated mount on the other. My tanks had an air tank (RH) and batteries (LH) on their ends and support was not an issue as the plates went from top to bottom.. With yours, the rear mount will be located somewhere in the middle of the end plate, so I'd suggest welding a couple of triangle plates inside to match the outer mount that tag the end to the base. Re baffles, I made a large chamber that all the pick up points draw from.. It had a small inlet point at the rear, and the pickups were tight to the front of the chamber, so there would always be plenty of fuel there on a steep decent. Here's a link to the section of the thread where I was building tanks! :)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/101-forward-controls-variations/178791-sitecs-101-a-52.html

[Homestar]

Just picked up the steel from my local fab shop, they did exactly what I wanted and it will need minimal finagling to get it to be just how I want it. Got the ends, some angle for the mounts, the bit in the pic, 2 baffles and a few off cuts for inside strengthening for around $200.

Good value for a 140 ish litre tank in my book. Just got to plug the welder in and glue it all together leak free - how hard can that be? ;)

I'll post more pics of it under construction, but I have to drop the old tank out first as a template - at least it's empty... :D

This new one will weigh considerably more, but there's no issues with that I don't think - the outriggers that hold it are well up to the task.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/750.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/04CDB8B0-ABF7-4219-B8B9-24BAE811C41F_zpsk8yjr4ja.jpg.html)

[Mick_Marsh]

Don't forget to install a drain plug.

Oh, and extend your fuel pickup to the right length before you weld the ends on.

[Homestar]

Yeah, fuel pickup will need to be almost 100mm longer. Drain plug I may have forgotton about. :angel:

[grey_ghost]

I should have jumped in earlier, and asked for a second tank to be made up...

Imagine my fuel range then - 160ltrs + (100 in Jerrys)

:) :wasntme: :angel: :cool:

[Homestar]

Let me see if I can make one that holds fuel first... :D

[rangieman]

Let me see if I can make one that holds fuel first... :D

If it`s anything like your cooking Gav :angel:Anything is possible :p

[Homestar]

Spent about 4 hours on the new tank today. Got it more than half done, and it's coming together well. The tank was folder up in 2 bits, so the top needed to be welded on first to form the basic shape. I welded the top both inside and out so I can grind the weld flat on the outside so it looks like a bought one, the trimmed the baffles up to fit. Measured up where the sender and pump will go so I don't hit a snag later and welded in one baffle, the welded the end to it.

My welding isn't pretty but I was happy with the bead I was laying in and I'm confident it will be sealed. :). Before I drill all the holes for the sender, pump, etc, I'll just have one hole in there as I finish off the welding so I can more easily pressure test it for leaks once this bit is done.

You can see the size difference between the old and the new here.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/658.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/91F4C6CF-ECBE-490B-823D-56C8FB453DC7_zpsfdo5qqfj.jpg.html)

Inside showing one of the baffles.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/659.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/47B5F41D-1E24-4E23-86BB-3136C72DE2E9_zpsduwsvwnq.jpg.html)

Outside showing one end welded in and a bit of the front weld ground back.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/660.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/55BB14AD-9309-4810-9DB8-258F2CF796EF_zpspfpovxcc.jpg.html)

One think I will say is that it's bloody heavy! But the long range tank I stuck into RRC was too and the mountings on that don't look as strong as what the 101 has, so I'm pretty sure it will be ok.

[cooee]

hi gav
you done great job on your fuel tanki made my bigger like you have done
130 ltr working on putting another on passanger side harry ho har in process of finishing off 160 ltr allietank
cheers cooee

[Homestar]

hi gav
you done great job on your fuel tanki made my bigger like you have done
130 ltr working on putting another on passanger side harry ho har in process of finishing off 160 ltr allietank
cheers cooee

Aluminium would have been better for this, but I have to work with what I can weld, and an AC TIG is one thing I don't have in my welding cupboard. :D

I'm pretty sure the outriggers will hold this one up easily, and as far as overall weight goes, the heaviest it ever gets is when there's our camping gear in the back. :)

[Tombie]

Tanks on 101s lighten up quickly anyway!!!

[Homestar]

That they most certianly do! All trips in a 101 start at the servo. :D

[Sitec]

Your outriggers will be fine.. I've had most of the weight of my 101 sat on my tanks when we were sat atop a sand dune with the 4 circular things no longer touching terra firma.. ;) Re drain plugs, recon I have a few blanking plugs that we take out of tractors when we put hydraulic fittings in.. Could post a few over if u like.. :)

[Homestar]

I've run into a small problem, I didn't bother to take any notice of how the back rubber mount sits on the old tank before removing it all. I'm at the point where I need to weld that mount on the new tank and I can't figure out where it needs to go!

Doh!

Can someone please post a pic of their factory rear fuel tank mount please that shows where the rubbers sit in relation to the chassis and tank.

Thanks. :)

[Homestar]

I figured it out eventually.... :D

Ok, so the tank is almost finished. Today I welded the other baffle in, drilled and tapped 2 holes (one for the breather and one for the return), welded in the other end, made and welded on both mounts (after I figured out where the rubbers went on the back mount).

Then I plugged up one hole and stuck a valve in the other and put 10PSI of air pressure in it and got the squirty bottle out with soapy water to look for leaks. Only found one - where the end of the weld joined the start, so I ground that back and re welded that bit - no more bubbles from any joint.

Good start, so I took the plug out, stuck another fitting in it and now I have it hooked to my manometer for the evening. I'll check it in the morning - fingers crossed...:D

Pics - the front mount finished and welded on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/449.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/058F71D4-24C3-4218-A7FB-5CA1A6705566_zpsjg3k8zlr.jpg.html)

The rear mount finished and welded on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/450.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/936137C7-B269-4AD5-9913-5AF06F9638CE_zpsagjweezv.jpg.html)

The manometer set up. I expect it to drop a bit as the air cools tonight, but only a bit, so as long as it's not on zero I'll be quite happy.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/08/451.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-08/E24A37DC-F500-47CB-9800-205C55A481D0_zpsy1vicgip.jpg.html)

So, if this is still ok in the morning, it's onto fitting the filler, drilling the holes for the sender and fuel pump, priming, painting and back in the 101!

And if it's not I may have to think of another way to find the leaks... I don't have anything big enough to submerge the whole tank in, and I don't really want to fill it with water and hydrostatically test it either, so if it leaks tonight, I'm open to suggestions. :D

[rar110]

RedKote the inside. I would do it even with no leaks. It will help with rust on the inside.

[Homestar]

Thanks - the old tank is bare metal inside and only rusted through from the outside where it is soldered into the cradle. The new tank is twice as thick as the old one too so maybe in 80 years it may become an issue. :)

But I like the idea, and it would be good insurance. Do you have to order it online or does anyone stock it?

[67hardtop]

I think from reading other posts that mr and mrs ho har have the stuff.

Cheers Rod

Sent from my GT-I9507 using AULRO mobile app

[Homestar]

Just had a look for it - ordered some. :)

[mick88]

Dam good job there Gav.
PVC solvent works well as a liner.
I have just recently done a couple of series tanks myself.
Cheers, Mick.

[Homestar]

Well, not sure what to make of the evenings readings. The manometer dropped 3" last night, so I'm not sure if that's just the air temp that's caused this or if there has been a tiny leak somewhere...

With nearly 10PSI in the tank, I can't get any bubbles to form on any weld, so I think I'll press on and cut the other holes and finish it off. I've ordered some redkote so I'll use that as my insurance.

No idea how I'm going to spin the tank around to spread that stuff out yet - I can see a custom bracket on the engine stand and the engine crane on the other in my foreseeable future... :D

[Mick_Marsh]

No idea how I'm going to spin the tank around to spread that stuff out yet - I can see a custom bracket on the engine stand and the engine crane on the other in my foreseeable future... :DI need to do similar to my tank. I'm using POR 15.

Let's chat. Two heads and two engine stands may be better than one.

[Homestar]

That sounds like a plan. It will be a couple of weeks before I can do this though. I'll have a think about how we can hang them with an engine stand each side. :)

[mick88]

I need to do similar to my tank. I'm using POR 15.

Let's chat. Two heads and two engine stands may be better than one.


I lashed mine to the cement mixer with a couple of ratchet straps!
Here is a pic of it in the "descaling" phase.
A handful off assorted yonnies in it and 30 minutes on the mixer before a lavish two soak in a molasses bath. ;)


Cheers, Mick.

[rar110]

I stuck short length of medium chain inside mine to loosen up any inside rust. A cement mixer would work a treat.

[Homestar]

I lashed mine to the cement mixer with a couple of ratchet straps!
Here is a pic of it in the "descaling" phase.
A handful off assorted yonnies in it and 30 minutes on the mixer before a lavish two soak in a molasses bath. ;)


Cheers, Mick.

What a great idea! Can get a mixer from work no dramas, so this looks like a great solution!

[Homestar]

Well, it's been a while, but I finallly have the new fuel tank complete. I installed it this afternoon, and I have everything hooked up apart from the fuel pump - I changed my mind on how I had modified this so I'll be doing it again in the morning and fitting it.

All going well, I can fire it up and take it for a drive tomorrow. :)

I still have a couple of bits to do to get it ready for next weekend, but hopefully the weather will be kind enough to not drown me - only showers forecast - and I can get this done - fitting of another radiator. Mines been leaking a lot and the last trip I did - Corowa - I was topping it up every day - the core is shagged where it meets the bottom tank, so it needs some work. Grey Ghost came to my rescue and has lent me his old - now repaired, rodded and flushed - radiator to get me going while I have mine re cored. I can't thank you enough mate - I really appreciate it. :)

So, a pic of the new tank below - the paint needs to fade in a bit to match the rest, but that won't take long. I'll report back tomorrow on how it all goes (ie - will it leak... :D). It is nearly 150mm deeper than the original and has a capacity of just over 160 litres, so between 140 and 150 usable I should think, so a vast improvement on the 85 to 90 I could get out of the old one. :)

I think it looks pretty good and unless you knew what the original tank looked like, I doubt you'd pick it for being bigger - there is still plenty of clearance under it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/47.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/4B2EADC6-3924-4A1F-8541-E00AF78C46B1_zpsbh0azzvt.jpg.html)

[Bytemrk]

Looks good Gav :thumbsup:

[cooee]

great job Gav like your camo paint job good idea bigger tank
hope you have great trip next week end:D
cheers Cooee

[Sitec]

Looks spot on! Re the rad, if you can get all the cowl screws out, the rad will slide out without having to remove the fan or cowl! :)

[Mick_Marsh]

Wow!
It looks bigger.

Hmm.....

How easy is it to unbolt and what spanners do I need?

[Homestar]

Wow!
It looks bigger.

Hmm.....

How easy is it to unbolt and what spanners do I need?

Not hard to figure out how to unbolt it, but when I hear the clunk and scream as it squashes you, I'll know what's going on. :D

It's VERY heavy - and that's without fuel.

[Mick_Marsh]

Did you extend the fuel pick up (If so, what did you do?) or devise a new system?

[Homestar]

Yes, I cut the old pickup in half, ran a bit of fuel proof hose between the original pipe, then braced the whole lot with a small steel rod TIG'ed to each end. Wires were extended with some bits I had lying around. I also fitted the new fuel pump I have had as a spare and the old one can now become the spare.

It sits just clear of the bottom of the tank. I think it will take 20 litres in it just to cover the pickup.

[Homestar]

Well, the fuel pump is in, everything tidied up, 40 litres of fresh petrol in the tank - NO LEAKS! :D (Yet). 40 litres shows just on 1/4 tank, which is pretty close to where it should be. :)

Turned the key after 8 months of it sitting in one spot - it fired after about 10 seconds cranking and settled down to a nice burbling smooth idle. :)

So, onto the radiator (so I thougt), but after backing it out onto the street and roaring off to do a quick blocky, I soon discovered something else that needs urgent attention - the brakes!!!

She no stop.... After a very entertaining left turn at the end of my street going waaaay too fast, I did the blocky nice and carefully and backed in into the driveway.

A quick change of undies later, I went back out to have a bo peep at the problem - no brake fluid.... Hmmm, that'll be the problem.... Where it's gone is a bit of a mystery at the moment, which I'm not happy about. There is no sign of anything leaking out behind the drums, but I haven't pulled the wheels off yet and whipped the drums off to have a look. Apart from a leaking wheel cyclinder it could all be in the booster, but I'll have to wait for the rain to clear before any more diagnosis goes on.

I have other issues that may yet stop me from attending Amphitheatre next weekend yet, but I won't know until closer to the day. I'll post up in that thread to let everyone know what's going on.

[Homestar]

Well, Chucky is playing up to his name today and I think he's ****ed off I left him so long in the backyard going unloved.

I bled the brakes and got them all sorted, got a nice pedal and I can now stop when required. I'll keep an eye on the fluid now and see how fast it drops. I may have a bit of time before I have to chase that one to the end.

While I was bleeding the brakes (gravity bleeding one corner at a time) I replaced the radiator - at least that's an easy job.

So, with a new radiator, and brakes I once again sailed off around the block for a shakedown run.

Brakes - check, no radiator or coolant system leaks - check. Happy days I though. My smile was not to last long however as once I reversed back into the driveway, I realised I was leaving an oil trail like the Exxon Valdez...

A quick look underneath shows one of the oil lines running to the cooler has split and Chucky has left a nice trail around the block to mark where he's been...

So, I'm not sure if I have the time or money this week to get new lines made up - I'll whip them off tomorrow and take them somewhere on Wednesday to see what sort of coin they are going to cost to replace.

2 steps forward, one step back...

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Metal line or rubber?
did you give it a big rev when cold?

I once was very close to an oil filter that expanded like a balloon --- from a big rev when starting...
scary thing. :eek:

[Homestar]

They are a rubber line that is wrapped with steel wire. No, I didn't give it a big rev when cold, as I'd just replaced the radiator it was just idling for 15 minutes warming up slowly.

I'm sure a hose place can knock up a set without issue, I just don't know what they are going to cost and funds are tight this week as SWMBO is flying to the Gold Coast on the weekend for a concert or something and needs some spending money. :D

[101 Ron]

It is not unknown for a 101 to blow those oil lines.
I had new ones made when I first purchased my 101.
One of the old ones I keep as spare in the vehicles tool box.
The local Pirtek bloke made the new ones.
I think he did winge about the ends being a bit hard to get.
It's even harder to get a hydraulic hose bloke to do the stainless steel braid covering because of the extra effort, but they will do it when pushed.
While I am at it, keep a spare throttle cable in the tool box as it takes up no room or weight and like the blown oil line is one of the few things that can go wrong with a 101 on the side of the road and spoil your trip.

[101 Ron]

The 101s fuel pump is s not fool proof or is the resistor for it on 24 volt models.
The real answer is not to use a in tank fuel pump.
The standard tank is easily converted to a old fashioned plain a simple pick up pipe.
One of those cube type super reliable and common 12 or 24 volt fuel pumps mounted externally on the chassis rail and a sediment bowl just before the pump to catch the rust and paint flakes works well with a 101 and is easier to access,buy, replace and generally sort out if something goes wrong as it is not in the tank nor a special part.

[101 Ron]

This is a pic of the oil lines I had made ,.......taken about Nine years ago........still working well.101 Engine Oil Cooler Hoses Photo by 101Ron | Photobucket (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/PC020640.jpg.html'sort=2&o=264)


One was a temporary while another beening made with the stainless steel protection covering.

[Homestar]

Thanks Ron, I'll be pulling the hoses today and hopefully dropping them off somewhere tomorrow (Public Holiday in Melb today).

The fuel pump is easy to get in and out - only takes a few minutes, so I'm not worried about that one - I've put a new pump in this tank, and the old one will be my spare - it was still going strong.

The throttle cable is something I hadn't thought of.

Cheers.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

never break another--
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/11/967.jpg

[Sitec]

The throttle cable is something I hadn't thought of..

Me neither...twice!! First in the UK with the Nissan donk.. The cable was on its limit of length and sure enough, twang... 200 km from home! Baler twine thru the engine cover on a pull handle got me home!

With the Cummins, the pin dropped out of the hole (pedal end).. Have u seen where that is!!?? Baler twine again as I got the arse trying to refit the pin!! :D

Re fuel pump, yup, as Ron said external electric fuel pump is the best.. I had a V8 Series 1 in the Uk, and the square one wouldn't keep up with the V8 at full chat so I had to go with the larger cylindrical type... Lead foot tho.. Got clocked at over 100mph in a Series 1 by the local cop.... Lucky he saw the funny side of it and did me at 98mph! :D

[Homestar]

So, finally got around to doing something on Chucky today. Replaced the leaking oil cooler lines - well one actually, haven't been able to get the other one off due to the lack of the correct sized spanner, but that will be sorted tomorrow thanks to Grey Ghost. :)

I have a 22mm, 24mm, 7/8", 15/16" but it's in between - either 23mm or 1/2" Whitworth I think...

Had the new lines made up with stainless braided Teflon lined pipe, so once the other one is changed, that's another job I won't have to do again.

Noticed that the brake fluid level had gone down again, but at least this time I can see where it's going - the LH front side is leaking heaps of fluid. Didn't stop me taking it for a run around town though - the front RH brake was working fine... :angel:

This year was going to see me put Unimog rims on and upgrade to some big disks, but that may be on hold due to me having to go to my Brothers Wedding in Darwin this year, which will take quite a few thousand out of my slush fund, so maybe this will have to wait, so I'll order all new wheel cylinders, linings and snails tomorrow and rebuild the drums to keep me out of trouble until then.

I'll probably try and get all this done this week as I have to take it to Ballarat on the 28th, so under a time pinch for that. No way I'm driving on the freeway with only one working front brake. :D

That will be a good shakedown run to get ready for Corowa. :)

[Homestar]

All brake parts ordered, should have them tomorrow arvo, so hopefully will get stuck into them later this week after work.

Will be interesting to get them back into shape properly - it always braked quite well when I first bought it and didn't go out of adjustment very often.

Hopefully I can wrangle them back to something like that. :)

[Homestar]

Got a bit done tonight, although I haven't had a chance to drop by and grab the shoes and wheel cylinders.

I do however have the new snail kits so pulled everything apart tonight - 1 wheel cylinder was leaking, the other 3 were on borrowed time. Everything cleaned and new snail kits installed so will get a bit more done tomorrow night I hope.

The drums are still in very good condition but I may drop them off at the local brake place (he drives a Defender and loves the 101) and get him to skim them and radius the new shoes to suit if he isn't busy and can do it in a timely manner as I need them back and on ASAP as Chucky is due to be in a display of Military Vehicles at the Ballarat RSL on the 28th.

Nothing like leaving things to toast minute... :D

[101 Ron]

Remember the factory specs only allow for a vey small amount to removed from the drums?????????? 1mm
Why I don't know.

[Homestar]

I could easily get away without doing the drums, the surface on both is flat but the contact area on the old shoes isn't 100% across the surface, the outer part doesn't contact so I'm not sure if they aren't totally square accross the face.

[grey_ghost]

Hi Mate,

How did you go with the 23mm spanner or the other spanner? Did it fit?

Cheers,
Tom.

[Homestar]

Hi mate, yes, the 23mm spanner was spot on thanks. :)

The other one was a bit looser but better than the 15/16". It undid easily once I had a good grip on it with the 23. :)

Thanks again.

[Homestar]

Ok, with the new brake parts home I got a bit more done tonight and have one side back together.

I checked the new shoes in the drums to see if they were radiused properly - they weren't, but I was expecting that. In the pic below you can just see a brown rub spot on the bottom of the shoe - it was like that both ends with no contact in the middle.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/492.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-01/18757B85-45C8-4DE0-8910-EF653CB8E32A_zpsvucoli8m.jpg.html)

You can see a small gap here.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/493.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-01/7F2C745C-884F-4992-9601-EAE9CC0497AA_zpsbjf4emn2.jpg.html)

So, last time I did this I just stuck a bit of sandpaper in the drum, and with a dusk mask on, rubbed the high spots off the shoes. This time I went one step further and it made life much easier and quicker. A roll of 80 grit sandpaper and a can of contact adhesive was procured.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/494.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-01/CE1234BA-9515-401D-AC95-5EBA62EB6C73_zpskgehh67v.jpg.html)

Then the sandpaper was glued into the drum and the excess trimmed off.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/495.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-01/2062471C-0F5C-42C5-AF53-CBFF41D9096A_zpsdqhthcz1.jpg.html)

After that, a few minutes an each shoe and the job was done - you can see the contact area in the pic below - there's a few small blotches of 'no contact' which appear darker in the pic, but much better.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/496.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-01/41829B80-0895-4EEA-B90E-528F35B15BA5_zpsfjzndrhw.jpg.html)

After that the sand paper was peeled out and the glue removed with a wipe over with some thinners. I then cleaned up the inside of the drum with the sandpaper - the brake guy couldn't fit me in to skim the drums, but they're in very good condition, so not overly fussed with that.

So tomorrow I'll do the other side then check the swivel preloads - I think they are a tad loose as it had a bit of shimmy at higher speeds last time I was barreling down Pentland Hills with it... :D. The tie rods, etc are all nice and tight so I'm guessing the swivels are the culprit - not a huge job to check and adjust.

Hopefully I'll get a good shake down run happening on Sunday. :)

[Homestar]

Spent most of the day on Chucky today and got the front axle back to 100%. All new brakes, including adjusters, new swivel seals, new oil in the swivels and the swivel pre load adjusted correctly so it should drive nicely again, but that will be tomorrow's job.

The swivel pre loads were indeed quite loose - around 3Kg with no seal in place. The 101 top swivel pin is different from a Series LR so the shims are too. Luckily they both had a .0010" shim so I removed these and got them back just within spec - just over 6Kg. I might see if I can get a shim kit for it so I can get them just a bit tighter but they are better than before and should be fine for a while.

The pins on both sides just lifted out - all nice and oily, no corrosion - so there's something to be said for running oil rather than 1 shot in them.

New seals in - they are a split seal due to th swivel being welded to the axle housing, so a 10 minute job :). 800ml of fresh oil in each side, bled the brakes and the wheels are back on the ground.

Just have a few small things to do in the morning - new overflow tank, engine service and check the other fluids, run the grease gun over everything and I'll be on the road for a good shakedown run. :)

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Do you work on other vehicles ? :p it must be an age thing-- ;)

[Homestar]

Do you work on other vehicles ? :p it must be an age thing-- ;)

Not as much as I should. Got a Series 3 in a thousand pieces and a Range Rover than needs a ton of work. Then the CBR1000 needs some TLC and SWMBO's VL800 needs a service and new front tyre.

The best thing I did was buy her a new car and pay someone else to look after it.. :D

Then there's the Coach that I'll be buying in the next few years... ;)

[pop058]

Not as much as I should. Got a Series 3 in a thousand pieces and a Range Rover than needs a ton of work. Then the CBR1000 needs some TLC and SWMBO's VL800 needs a service and new front tyre.

The best thing I did was buy her a new car and pay someone else to look after it.. :D

Then there's the Coach that I'll be buying in the next few years... ;)

Once Ian finishes it :D

[Homestar]

That's how long they seem to take to build.:D

I'll be getting some work done professionally like the slide outs and maybe the floor lowering - there's a guy local to me that does this for a living and gets them fully engineered. Will save me a years work right there.

I'll do the electrics, other services and some of the fit out. Again, I'll probably pay someone to do the final fit and finish so it doesn't look 'Gav built' :D

Base will be something similar to this - http://www.trucksales.com.au/buy/private/SSE-AD-3825745/1989-mercedes-0303?cr=47&category=buses&psq=%28%28%28%28%28%28SiloType%3D%5BDealer%20Used% 5D%7CSiloType%3D%5BDealer%20New%5D%29%7CSiloType%3 D%5BPrivate%20Used%5D%29%7CSiloType%3D%5BDealer%20 Near%20New%5D%29%26SaleStatus%3D%5BFor%20Sale%5D%2 9%26Service%3D%5BTrucksales%5D%29%26%28Category%3D %5BBuses%5D%26SubCategory%3D%5BCoach%5D%29%29&pso=45&pss=Premium

Preferably straight from its working life. There are some good coaches in Qld around 25 years old where they have to retire them which are similar prices, so who knows, there are plenty out there. As I'll be towing a trailer with a 4x4 in it, I'll need some decent HP - 350 to 400 at least. Volvo, Merc or Scania powered. Something European, heaps better on the juice.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

That coach has been on the road for 41K 's a year,, for 17 years,,


amazing really,,
and still looks a million bucks

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/426.jpg

[Homestar]

Yep, I just linked a different one actually that's older but heaps cheaper - there are some great buys out there - the market is saturated with them.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

https://www.busnews.com.au/detail/volvo-b10m-434887
https://www.busnews.com.au/detail/mercedesbenz-0404-285101

Tel him hes joking!
https://www.busnews.com.au/detail/scania-k124-coach-design-body--high-deck-282387

[Homestar]

You look interested yourself now. :D

There's some very nice machines for good prices out there. :)

The last ones out of my price range. :D

I think he's got a decimal point in the wrong spot or just doesn't want to sell it.

[Mick_Marsh]

The problem with a bus is you have to take your home to the Coles car park when you find you are a little short for milk in the coffee when friends drop around. I'd prefer something with a detatcchable shopping trolley.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/423.jpg

[mick88]

That "trolley" would still be a tight squeeze in a few of the aisles in Coles.
Maybe "Ninety" or even a nice little 80 inch, on a trailer behind the motorhome would be a good grocery fetcher.
The Suzuki Vitara's are very popular for this sort of thing, especially for towing them via an "A-frame," most like because the transmission has a "neutral" position for towing.
I recall once seeing a Clipper motorhome where a Moke was carried in the belly cargo area. The Moke roof was folded down then it was winched up sideways on a purpose built ramp.


Cheers, Mick.

[Homestar]

Will have a 4 wheel drive of some sort and 2 x Postie bikes as well for shopping duties and for work. Also to throw the camping gear in and head off road to all the nice little spots I can't get the Coach to, so no issues there. :)

[Sitec]

If ever there's a bus I'd like to own, the it would be one of these.. A Flxible Clipper. :)

[mick88]

My BIL and SIL went over to USA for a few months holiday and purchased this while they were there. They toured about in it for a several weeks, then they had it shipped back to Australia (Perth), then drove it from there to where they live in the Riverland of South Australia.


Cheers, Mick.

[Homestar]

If ever there's a bus I'd like to own, the it would be one of these.. A Flxible Clipper. :)

Stick a Cummins in that and you'd be right. ;)

[Homestar]

Took Chucky for a good run today, around 200KM round trip to Ballarat for a Military Vehicle display for the Ballarat RSL's 100th Anniversary.

A nice little display of vehicles - which I forgot to take any pictures of, so you'll have to wait for Mick to upload some. :)

Chucky was on a mission today and I had trouble holding him back. Trying to maintain 90 (GPS) at 3000 RPM proved difficult and it was more like 3150 and 95 some of the time. Micks 6x6 - admittedly cold - was a spec in the rear view mirrors heading up the Pentland Hills.

Chucky did give me some grief when we went to head home - click, no start... Thought it may be the battery for a start but a jump from the 6x6 proved ineffective. It looked like the starter may have died, and a quick push from some willing (or not) volunteers had him running again.

As we headed out the carpark, I put the indicator on, and got nothing but a strong smell of burning wire. Micks view of all this was me jumping from the 101 - fine extinguisher in hand crapping my dacks... :D

Nothing was found and I made it safely home without using the indicators - and only managed to **** one person off doing this. :D

So, a few tweaks and it will hopefully be right for next Sunday's run, and the Sunday after - it's a busy time for car shows at the moment. :)

That shouid see him fully shaken down and ready for Corowa - that's a 1000KM week, so need to get the bugs sorted now.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

You'll be fine:cool:

[Homestar]

Yeah, I will be. Just got to have some stern words to that useless sparky that rewired the whole vehicle.

Oh, wait...

[mick88]

Yeah, I will be. Just got to have some stern words to that useless sparky that rewired the whole vehicle.

Oh, wait...



It's probably just "Lord Lucas" intervening!
Remember, he didn't invent "darkness" he just stumbled on it by accident!


:)

[Homestar]

No, the useless Sparky I was referring to is me...:D

There's no Lucas left in this vehicle - I rewired it end to end when I first got it as half the stuff didn't work when I got it and that was easier than trying to fix what the factory had installed.

It's blown a fuse (there were only 2 in the factory loom - now 8) but there's a short in there somewhere - I've only spent 10 minutes on it, but going back out there soon to have a closer look.

[Homestar]

Ok, almost sorted. Small rub through on one wire causing the indicator fuse to blow. What I can't work out is why it happened at exactly the same time as the starter dying....

The starter is dead, I'll pull it shortly and hopefully just be able to clean up the solenoid contacts - the solenoid is operating, but nothing else.

A bit puzzling but nothing show stopping.

[Mick_Marsh]

Geez, I wish I'd taken more pics now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/104.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Ballarat%20RSL%20100th/DSC_6739.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/105.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Ballarat%20RSL%20100th/DSC_6740.jpg.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/01/106.jpg (http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/mick_marsh_AULRO/media/Ballarat%20RSL%20100th/DSC_6741.jpg.html)

In hindsight, we should have spread them out more.

[The ho har's]

Be prepared to pay dollars for a new starter if you have to buy one. The started died on "CanDo" a while back so a new one was ordered through our supplier from England. $550.00 approx incl freight, 24volt.

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Luckily mine is 12 volt. I'll get a price through work tomorrow - we get a huge discount on OEX stuff - I paid $129 for the one in the Rangie and they had one on the shelf.

Hope this is similar in price, I just need to track down a part number. :)

Oh, and just pulled the old one out and apart - the solenoid is burnt out, so not going to bother putting a new solenoid on a 40 year old starter, so will just get a new one. Hopefully for the right price, but it is what it is.

[Homestar]

Well, looks like it is a common garden variety starter used in all V8 Land Rovers from 1972 to 2004 so not exactly rare or expensive. Retail prices on line range from 64 quid from OS and $132 here in Aus up to $350 depending on retailer and brand - From Chinese to OEX (probably still Chinese but I've got a couple of them now and never had an issue up to the higher priced Bosch units.

Will see what sort of price I can snag on for in the morning after speaking to a few bods, but it will be back on the road quickly. :)

Mine is an LRS196 Lucas unit, as per the cross reference chart below, there's a stack of options.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/119109d1485668115-gavs-101-image.jpg

[The ho har's]

Lucky for you, unlucky for us, though having 2x 24 volt vehicles parts are interchangeable ;):D Harry rang you before on your work phone BTW.

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Well, we've all bagged out Land Rover Engineers from time to time, but I think they get it right with one thing - the starter motor wasn't changed through the life of the V8 - the part number off mine cross referenced to 'Rover V8 - 1972 to 2004'.

So, I dropped in to see the friendly folk at British Car Components in North Melbourne during my lunch break and within a few seconds, they knew what I needed and headed out the back to grab one off the shelf for me. Had a chat and a Coffee and talked all things 101 and other stuff. Big thanks and shout out as always to Dave and the Guru. Friendly 1 on 1 service, (actually 2 on 1 :D) parts on the shelf and great pricing.

Got home just before, all of 2 minutes to fit and Chucky breathed into life once more. You don't realise how bad your old starter really is until you stick a new one in there - much faster cranking now. :)

[Sitec]

I thought the 101 starter was different, in the fact that the solenoid was mounted high so as not to fowl the front prop.. Know there was a difference from the standard starter.. Long time since I had anything to do with a V8 starter tho!

[Homestar]

The solenoid is well out of the way, see pic below. It would be a VERY bad day if they touched - it would mean the engine had fallen out.:D

And it's by far one of the easiest starter motors to change - less than 5 minutes including getting the tools. :)


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/626.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Bacicat2000/media/General%20Stuff/2017-02/ADF790D5-B675-4472-9626-39174CC9182F_zpslaurynt7.jpg.html)

[Sitec]

That's where it should be which is good... There was one V8 starter where the solenoid hung directly down.. P6 cars perhaps.. :)

[101 Ron]

I have fitted the same OEX starter to my 101 a few times now.
They have a reduction drive which the earlier rover ones did not and work very well.
I tend to go though starter motors not because the starters I am fitting are not good, but because of the hard life I give them.
The fan picks up water if crossing a creek at speed and drowns the civie non water proof distributor I have fitted.
If crossing a creek slowly, anything above the front tyres is the same height as the sparkplugs.
Many a time I have purposely cooked my starter and used my batteries to drive a dead wet motor 101 to dry land.
The crank handle works well after that .

[101 Ron]

One thing I have learnt with the 101 ,not having a bonnet and front end so to speak means a very different method of fording deep creeks and rivers must be used as forming a bow wave is not your friend like a normal Landrover.................In fact a bow wave is your worse enemy.
Slow as possible will get you thought to water to the sparkplugs on the motor and some times more.
If not it's the starter or another vehicle to the rescue .

[Homestar]

Went for a run in Chucky today - had a blast, and what was going to be a 15 minute lap around the block turned into an hour. :)

Ended up shooting the breeze with a nice old guy at Dan Murphys then getting pulled over by a Policeman who asked for my log book - he had a quick glance at it, handed it back without checking the rego or my licence and said 'so what is it?' :D

10 minutes later he now knows a lot more about 101's. :). I think he did a bit of a Digger on me and only pulled me over to have a chat - which I was quite happy to do.

Another good little outing - there's no such thing as a quick trip in a 101. :)

[Homestar]

Well, time to dust off this thread and give an update.

Due to to changes in my life’s circumstances I have been considering moving Chucky on for a while now, but some here will be very happy to know this isn’t going happen at the moment.

So instead I went and spent some money on it. 😇

As I’ve posted elsewhere I’ve got some new Speedhut gauges to go in and today another pricey item showed up today - a new canvas from Exmoor Trim. Of course it’s raining today so I can’t fit it yet, but will try tomorrow night. It is made from the original Land Rover patterns so should fit well - there are a few places my current one has never fitted correctly and the locally available item also seems not to fit perfectly from what I’ve seen. Very heavy duty low shrink canvas which they make allowances for during manufacture.

Had it all layer out in the front room and it looks very good, so looking forward to getting it on. will use the old one as a cover in some way shape or form afterwards to help protect this one a bit longer.

Will post pics when it’s on. 👍😊

[Homestar]

Ok, a few pics below of before during and after. Well I've got to say the Exmoor tilt is bloody brilliant overall although I still have to figure out a couple of small items that is operator error I'm sure. Fits beautifully and has HEAPS more attachments that the old one that was on there - the roof section alone has 3 more tensioners and 4 more securing tabs as well so the ballooning of the roof section that my old one did won't happen with this one. It is also a LOT heavier - around twice the weight I think - the old one feels not much heavier than a thin tarp but this one was actually hard to even lift up into the back to fit. Easy job to roll it out - it was all packed up inside out front to back ,so basically sit it on the roll bar hoops behind the seats, the front bit folded out and reached the front clips, then it just rolled out all the way to the back, then the sides folded down - simple. Took about half and hour to fully tweak it to where I wanted it and get everything tight.

The back is also a bit different and I may make changes to how this is secured as the rope that is currently there isn't doing it for me - I had bungy cord on the old one which made it far quicker to get the back open, but minor changes at some point.

The old one - you can see how saggy and worn it is - it has lasted over 5 years outdoors since I've had it and longer than that overall. I will be covering this new one up - I may modify the old tilt as a cover - will see how I go.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1915/43399246300_793d4fdb0d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2983tVf) (https://flic.kr/p/2983tVf) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Half way.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1978/43399249420_98672a124a_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2983uR3)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2983uR3) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And new one on - sorry about these pics, the sun had moved off it by the time I went out to put the new one on. Will take some more in the morning.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1955/45164484182_31d9685230_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2bP2MD9)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2bP2MD9) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1945/45164484462_f550bd34d4_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2bP2MHY)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2bP2MHY) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Now I'm wondering if I should paint the vehicle slightly darker to match this at all - it is supposed to be dyed to the original colour, and I'm sure it will fade a bit, but the black bits on the 101 need painting anyway, so maybe a shade darker on the green? The colour that is on there now isn't original, it's just a sample pot of exterior paint I got from Masters years ago called 'Peppercorn' which looked close...

[grey_ghost]

You managed to install that before you went to work today? Great work [emoji1303][emoji6][emoji3]

[Homestar]

You managed to install that before you went to work today? Great work [emoji1303][emoji6][emoji3]

I got the old one off before going to work, went and did some calls then came home and fitted the new one during lunch...

Sound feasible?...[bigwhistle]

[Mick_Marsh]

I got the old one off before going to work, went and did some calls then came home and fitted the new one during lunch...

Sound feasible?...[bigwhistle]
So you put in five minutes, then.

[87County]

The tarp looks better than the vehicle you've rigged it on ! :)


Well done !

[Homestar]

So you put in five minutes, then.

Please Sir, you give me too much credit! 😁

[Homestar]

The tarp looks better than the vehicle you've rigged it on ! :)


Well done !

Yeah, so now begins a big cleanup to bring the rest up to snuff to match. 😊

[Homestar]

And got the dash 90% out now too. Just need to disconnect the oil and temp capillaries and carefully remove them. Although I’ll likely never use them again, I do want to keep that gauge set 100% intact, so I’ll call it quits for today now - the wind is very cold and I’ll lose patience quickly so will do it another day.

[Homestar]

Ok, can someone help me with their Googling skills please - I'm trying to find some of the indication lights as per the pic below. I need a blue one for the high beam as the new speedo doesn't have this, so thought I'd replace all of them while I'm at it, as the whole dash will be repainted and spruced up. Ideally I'd like the ones with the prism look to them as these are, but beggars can't be choosers. I'm sure I'm just searching for the wrong thing - what would you call them?

Also, can anyone remember what the orange and white ones are for? I don't think I've ever seen them on...

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1940/44308879535_9e699c71eb_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2avqAbT)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2avqAbT) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[101 Ron]

Those light with the prism lens are far as i
I know impossible to find now in good condition.
They were used extensively on British vehicles including motor bikes.

I think a round type lens replacement is still available though Ashdowns in different colours.......same design, just round shape lens.

[grey_ghost]

Do you have the 101 parts book? I think that I have one... It’s probably a standard Land Rover Part - you just need to find it...

[101 Ron]

I just on line had a look at the latest Ashdown catalogue and couldn't find what I was looking for........all replaced by LED stuff.
When at work tomorrow I will see if I can find a old part number and see if still available.

[Homestar]

Found this - Lucas genuine lamp - Feo Lucas SPB357 Amber LED Illuminated Warning Light Land Rover Series 2a 3 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/p/Feo-Lucas-SPB357-Amber-LED-Illuminated-Warning-Light-Land-Rover-Series-2a-3/2006735034)

Not exactly what I want but will still look good - just need to see if this seller has the other colours I need.

[101 Ron]

Thats the round lens replacement I was thinking of.........should be still available in different colours.

[Homestar]

Found all but the white one. May be able to use something else there - maybe another amber unit?

Back to that question - what are the while and amber lamps for anyway?

[Homestar]

Well, check these guys out - Auto Electrical Spares | Suppliers of Lucas Spare Parts & Accessories (https://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/)

Ship worldwide, easy to order - total of 21 quid for 8 lamps delivered to Aus - 2 of each colour (but no the white one) in case I can't figure out which way I want to go with it. [thumbsupbig]

[Homestar]

Just ordered a stack more parts from Able Engineering in the UK as well - stuff to finish off the dash - thanks GG for the pointer - I'd forgotten about them. They had the proper lights too as did the 101 club which Lionel pointed me towards but at nearly 11 quid each I'll use the Lucas items I ordered for 2.50 each.

Bought a new sticker kit, new steering wheel center cap, new indicator stalk, new wiper knob and new 'diff lock' light bezel, so the whole dash and steering wheel should look pretty good once all done - also a perfect time to reco the steering wheel as that has needed doing for ages too.

Just have to sit back and wait for it all top turn up - my Paypal account is 120 quid lighter now, so I'll quit that for the time being... [biggrin]

Have plenty to be going on with until all that shows anyway.

[grey_ghost]

But what about a fuel filler pipe...? [wink11]

[Homestar]

It doesn't need fuel sitting in the driveway with no dashboard or steering wheel in it, so it can wait. [biggrin]

Will make it look pretty first, then function properly second - that's the best was to go about things right???

[grey_ghost]

That’s how I start all of my resto’s [emoji6][emoji3][emoji854]

[Homestar]

So the dashboard is now out and the old gauges put away.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1918/44391809065_13a9d5939e_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2aCKCfn)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2aCKCfn) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Clean and paint of the dash panel.
Before - not sure why it’s showing upside down.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1962/31430080768_5cf1cb25f0_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/PTno1h)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/PTno1h) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And after with the new gauges fitted.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1975/45255243412_2a37f298f0_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2bX3Xcs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2bX3Xcs) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1943/31430080708_09c941a842_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/PTnnZf)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/PTnnZf) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

I had 3 toggle switches in the top RHS of the panel for various items - I found a 6 switch block of caroling switches which were supposed to go into the RRC but wouldn’t fit where I wanted them, so they have found a new home here. A couple of them aren’t labeled correctly now but most are - might see if I can find the correct switches for what I need but not critical.

Have moved the old VDO temp sender that I was using as a backup coolant temp gauge to where the oil temp gauge came out of, so will retain engine oil temp at the oil cooler. The other VDO volt gauge and oil pressure gauge are a bit redundant now though, so may find something more suitable for where they are now - will see later.

My order from Abel Engineering is already in Melbourne so will have all the other new parts to go on the dash and surrounds soon.

Will also refurbish the steering wheel as that is also long overdue for some TLC.

Also just noticed reading the blurb on the quad gauge that each one has a programmable low and high warning light for each function (low warning only for the fuel) so that’s pretty cool too. 👍

[grey_ghost]

Looking great [emoji1303][emoji3]

[rangieman]

Oh its so nice Gav [thumbsupbig]

[Homestar]

Thanks guys. Just finished for the day - installed the new wiring looms that come with the gauges - plenty of length even for something like a 101. Looms are fitted with plugs each end so easy as. Senders are multi wire jobs so no local grounding for sender accuracy - just one earth at the gauge and that’s it. Also comes with a dimmer for the gauges backlights too, so if will be a modern masterpiece. 😆

Time for a SSSS then a beer. 👍

[101RRS]

Hi Gav - if you had thought of it could you have ordered you speedo with a high beam, oil light and choke light installed?

Garry

[Homestar]

Thanks - I did look at some other stuff but they couldn’t do the speedo I wanted like this unfortunately. They can do indicators and high beam in the speedo - a 0-240KPH unit, but not the 0-180 and not the cusomtomisation I needed.

The oil light and choke light never worked anyway - the choke was all different when I bought it and I pulled the oil pressure switch in favour of a gauge, so only need to put a high beam lamp back - which I’ve ordered and will mount where the white one was above the diff lock light as that’s never had any wiring to it and no idea what it was for. 😊

It’s not like it’s original any more, but a nice modern facimile. 👍😊

[Homestar]

Well, the 101 parts I ordered have arrived - less than 5 days from order and they were showing in Australia on Saturday so had the weekend not gotten in the way, only a few days - always amazes me I can get stuff quicker from England that I can from interstate. Will post a pic of those goodies when I get my hands on them tonight. 👍

[Homestar]

Here’s some new shiny bits for the dash.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1905/45277546572_265fbf7de1_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2bZ2g9G)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2bZ2g9G) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And some bits fitted.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1969/44607909544_88f8a0d3e8_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2aXRcoG)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2aXRcoG) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1947/44607909614_1ec4d62e3c_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2aXRcpU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2aXRcpU) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Found the old hole that the trip reset dial was in is now the perfect home for the dash light dimmer so happy there. Still waiting on the new lamps I ordered - have a feeling they will take a bit longer to get here.

Will take some time to get everything back together. The switch plate for the infrared switch has been painted and is now drying, the wiper switch detent is stuck in, so have that soaking in CRC at the moment and the wiring at the back now needs a rework for the new gauges, and there’s a whole new loom to build for the new switch block too. Won’t be rushing this, as I want to get it spot on and have a dash that can be all unplugged for removal in the future (I made it 90% like this when I first rehashed it, but changed and added things since, so this is just finishing what I started 5 years ago) 😇

Have go the steering wheel to be going on with, and the cleanup and repaint around where the dash goes too. Still deciding if I should pull the front glass and get new bits cut while I’m at all this - car restos always look heaps better with new glass IMO... Might get my local glazier to price it for me.

[Homestar]

Still waiting on the snail mail for the new globe holders which have been shipped, but no idea when they will get here. In the meantime I’ve almost completed the dash wiring with the new gauges. Weather today is being very uncooperative so testing, etc hasn’t happened yet as it won’t stop raining long enough to allow this.

In the small breaks in the weather I have done a test fit though - sneak peak below. This has all been pulled out just wanted to make sure all the different looms were long enough and in the right place. Everything is fine and I can now take the whole dash out in 10 or 15 minutes if needed as it is all plug and play now. Still have the switch loom to make for the new switches, but the earths for the globes, dash light power and main power are all connected, so it’s just the 6 output wires to make into a loom and plug in, but I’’ve only got use immediately for 2 of them, so no rush there. Thinking of a lighting solution now that can use up the rest - a set of driving lights, light bar and a couple of work lights, but these will come later.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1943/43625675850_e71ba5c667_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/29t3Zx1)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/29t3Zx1) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1961/43625675800_16eff001a6_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/29t3Zw9)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/29t3Zw9) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[Homestar]

Just caught a decent break in the rain after all that, so just tested the dash - almost everything works... 😇

Gauges work - the speedo shows the KM I asked them to input for me, and the dash lights work and dim too. 👍😊

All lights still work, but wipers don’t for some reason, although the washers do and they run off the same supply so will have to suss that one out - you can’t trust anyone to do a proper job these days... 😁

Will hopefully run all tests tomorrow, then remove dash again and clean and paint behind the next assembly can be its last for a while.

Will see if I can get some video of the gauges tonight.

[Homestar]

Not great pics, but some at night.

Can have the backlight off and the dials lit or unlit (I have the dial lamps running through the panel light switch)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1956/45393233822_9f08187242_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2cafbWs)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2cafbWs) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And back light turned up about half way which is about right I think - it will be novel to see what speed I’m doing at night.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1979/31570039438_6fc1263886_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Q6JGQN)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/Q6JGQN) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And the odometer reading as asked to be programmed - close to the actual current KM the vehicle has done.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1926/45393233832_58e36bd009_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2cafbWC)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2cafbWC) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[grey_ghost]

That’s looking fantastic.. And you can see your dials! Luxury! [emoji6][emoji3]

[Homestar]

They should look good with the new seat covers. 👍

If it’s not raining tomorrow I might get close to having it running again. Still got to find some plugs to stick in the 2 holes left by the old capillary gauges - I think they are 3/8 NPT or something, I should have something kicking around to stuff in them.

Plenty to do and not many days to do it...

[grey_ghost]

Who needs sleep? Not Super Gav - get out there and keep going! [emoji1303][emoji6][emoji3]

[Homestar]

Pffft. On my second large glass of whiskey now so maybe not... 😁

[grey_ghost]

Hmm. [emoji848] he says on can number #6...

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Those are great guages! In two minds now comparing those to Meccles wonder dash---[bigrolf]

[Homestar]

Progress is going well today. Dash is back in permanently and everything appears to work as it should. Calibrated the fuel gauge which is an easy job and is now accurate full to empty - but I’ve set the low fuel light at 1/4 anyway. 😇

Still can start and run the engine as I still have 2 gaping holes where the old gauges went. Though the threads were 3/8 BSP or NPT but when I checked, it’s a straight thread and I don’t have any plugs to suit so will have to wait until tomorrow to grab a couple.

Apart from that, I just need to check oil levels, give it a run and fingers crossed it will be right for next weekend. I do need to fix the rear output seal behind the handbrake as it’s ****ing oil out of there but that can wait one more trip.

Might do all the oil leaks in one hit - the overdrive is leaking too, as is the rear main on the engine, but that’s only a weep, so will see but it isn’t hard to get the box out, so might do this and even chuck the good spare box in at the same time that has some of the synchros left...

[67hardtop]

Looks good Gav

[Homestar]

Ordered custom canvas seat covers on Saturday night - got some pics of them tonight - they are complete and ready for shipping which he’s doing tomorrow - how's that for service!

[Homestar]

Seat covers on their way! Bought a couple of plugs to fix the holes the old gauges left in the oil cooler and inlet manifold and the engine holds all fluids now, and runs again! Changed the coolant while I was at it as it’s been a couple of years - GG - that radiator you lent me was recored 2 years ago believe it or not, how time flies...

So, just have to check and top up oils, but as always, 2 steps forward, 1 back - my little hand pump that I fill the gearbox, etc with went ‘sproing’ and bits flew everywhere - the little plastic housing is in bits, so need a new one before continuing and of course it’s after 5 now, so my local parts place is closed.

Tomorrow is is a new day, but things are looking good for this weekends run and show. 👍👍👍

[Homestar]

Well, have taken Chucky for a shake down run and I’m happy to report it went well. Having a working speedo is a novelty and the noise from the canvas flapping about is about 90% less now as the new canvas is tight as. 👍

Temp and pressure gauges are spot on too as you’d expect, but nice to know I can trust what I’m looking at.

Steering is still less than ideal, but I’m happy enough with it to drive it to the Steam Museum and back on the weekend.

Just need to run the grease gun over a few things and I’m ready.

[Homestar]

Ok, all ready for the weekend! Some of the black paint for the camo I sprayed on a few years ago was all streaky, so decided to repaint that - came up great. Also cleaned all the windows properly for the first time in 5 years. New seat covers on now too, so the yucky blue defender seats don't show now.

After a touch up, but before window cleaning.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1958/45509406012_794ebbadc3_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2ckvATf)1D922AB1-5656-420B-8CC9-2F73DACC2A19 (https://flic.kr/p/2ckvATf) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Windows clean.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1973/31688796988_48623f2e1c_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/QhenjL)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/QhenjL) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

The drivers seat is a bit baggy, but that's because the seat is stuffed on one side - when I'm sitting on it, no dramas. :)
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1919/43743662950_30c342a0ce_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/29DtGZm)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/29DtGZm) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

See you all at the Steam Center in Sunday morning at 10am!

[Homestar]

Ok, so I have come across a set of large driving lights at a good price (no, not stolen 😁 )

Now, where to put them? Any thoughts on how to mount them on the front of Chucky? Will need to make a bar or something - just scratching my head a bit on what I can do.

[LRJim]

How big are they? And are they square or round?
Cheers Jim

[Homestar]

Round - 220mm - Rallye 4000’s. Couldn’t pass them up for the price.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

either down next to OE,, so you get 2 sets of 2,,

or right up under the windshield, best place for actual vision[wink11]

[Homestar]

Thanks - will see if I can mock that up, see what each looks like. Then I have to work out what sort of bar to build to hold them on - there’s nothing to attach to currently at the front of the vehicle.

[LRJim]

If they wernt so big I was gonna say near the mirrors like old cop spotlights, they may get in your face though depending how you go about it. Or S1 style behind the grille if there's room[emoji106]

[Homestar]

Yeah, they are big suckers. No way they’d fit behind the grille, and I can’t find another spot I’m happy with, so they’ll go on the shelf for the time being I think.

I think the only way to make room for them would be on a bull bar - Which I’ve been mulling over for some time, but until I decide if and how I do that, I may have to find another use for them.

[LRJim]

On top of your front axle, they will still light up the road plenty of clearance[emoji38][emoji38]
Yeah seems your stuck between a rock and a hard place with them.
Cheers Jim

[cjc_td5]

Round - 220mm - Rallye 4000’s. Couldn’t pass them up for the price.About 6 of them above the windscreen.... 🤣🤣

[Homestar]

About 6 of them above the windscreen.... 🤣🤣

Nice thought but I don't think the canvas top would hold them up...[biggrin]

[Homestar]

So, big plans are afoot for Chucky, which will start this weekend. I'm halfway through cleaning the garage up and I'll soon have enough room in it not just to park a vehicle - the Jag fits in there no dramas now, but is a squeeze down each side - but to work on one too out of the weather.

Chucky will be getting stripped on the weekend of canvas, sticks, roll bar and windscreen so he can take up residence in there for a few months. Deals are happening in the background and things coming along well. I plan on taking him on a large trip I'm doing mid next year, so now's the time to start prepping for this. A full camping setup will be built for the back, but mechanically, while sound and ok for what I currently do, I have a lot of work which is long overdue on him. He towed my van to Corowa and back no dramas, although the steering is really getting bad...

The exhaust is shot, so needs a new one front to back, also some other goodies should be in the garage by next week. Things to make it stop and steer better. Gearbox also has to come out (sending the spare I have away for a check and some work shortly) and I'm going to finally get the winch running on it while I'm at it.

Did think about buying another vehicle for this trip, but by the time I'm done here, I won't have the dollars for that so I better get this right huh...? [biggrin]

Stay tuned, more details when I have some pics to show

[cooee]

hi gav[bigsmile1]
sound like you have big plans ahead look foward to your camp set up on 101
we are looking at doing trip later this year so will alter few things at moment looking puttimg in ac
will you update motor and brakes will follow with intrest
cheers cooee[thumbsupbig]

[Homestar]

hi gav[bigsmile1]
sound like you have big plans ahead look foward to your camp set up on 101
we are looking at doing trip later this year so will alter few things at moment looking puttimg in ac
will you update motor and brakes will follow with intrest
cheers cooee[thumbsupbig]

Thanks. Good to see you back here again. Engine stays as is - it runs fine and is adequate for my needs. Disc brakes - yes, power steering - yes. 👍

[Homestar]

So, first part of the big upgrades is getting Chucky in the Garage. This has meant the Jag is outside but has a heavy duty weatherproof cover on it, so although not ideal, it is ok for a while.

Next issue is the 101 is about 40cm too high to fit in the garage - luckily this is an easy fix.

All it take is 1 - Tilt off.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7844/40530082563_36ef5022e7_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24KvguX)IMG_0520 (https://flic.kr/p/24KvguX) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

2 - Rear frame off.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7881/46772512464_a6bb875fc7_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eg8mqG)IMG_0521 (https://flic.kr/p/2eg8mqG) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

3 - Roll bar off and windscreen down
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7814/40530082473_25c3f7599b_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/24Kvgtp)IMG_0524 (https://flic.kr/p/24Kvgtp) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Headrests just cleared so didn't need to spend the extra 10 seconds removing these. [biggrin]. Took about an hour all up, not a difficult proposition.

And in. Ended up taking the windscreen right off as I need to do some work on that too anyway while I have easy access to everything on it.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7807/46580740765_0ea3bcb854_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2dYbto6)IMG_0525 (https://flic.kr/p/2dYbto6) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Will spend the rest of the day sorting out my tools and making some room on the bench next to my toolbox but I have heaps of room to work on the front end now on both sides, undercover, with the roller door down if necessary so pretty happy all up.

[67hardtop]

Coulda just jacked the house up Gav...

[101RRS]

I left my winsdcreen on (it is pain to let down and you will have problems putting it back up and making it water tight.

I just let my front tyres down and rolled the 101 in the garage and then pumped them back up. (with the tyres down it just cleared).

[Homestar]

Windscreen has never sealed since I've owned it - when it rains outside, I get quite damp inside... [emoji16] Its one of the things I want to get a little better on reassembly. The old rubber is shot and there's no rust so should be able to get it back together a bit better than it is now hopefully.

Even with tyres off I wouldn't have cleared my garage door so only way to go really. I'm going to have new glass put in the screen while it's off anyway and clean and repaint it, so a few birds with one stone. [emoji106]

[cjc_td5]

The Canning? [emoji854]

[Homestar]

The Canning? [emoji854]

Unfortunately I don’t have enough shares in BP to get that far. 😇, but up to Uluru and back, via a few different places, away from the bitumen. About 5,500KM give or take. I’ve got just less than 18 months, so need to get cracking. Sounds like a long time, but with a list as long as mine is to get this ready, I need to start now.

This is just the first part, engine needs a good going over although it is solid, there are a few coolant weeps here and there, so hoses, gaskets, water pump, then a good service and tune (haven’t touched the carbies, plugs, etc in the 5 years I’ve had it).

Gearbox will be swapped out for the spare I have, once that has had the once over, and I’ll be getting the gearbox driven winch up and running while I’m at it.

Looking today it looks like the shackle bushes are shot so yet another job to do there, then there’s the exhaust...

Sounds like it is a basketcase but in reality I’d drive it to Perth tomorrow if I had to, it’s a lot of things that I’ve been meaning to catch up on but no show stoppers.

The back will be set up with a pretty sweet camping setup but that’s after I get it mechanically A1 again.

[101RRS]

and I’ll be getting the gearbox driven winch up and running while I’m at it.

I have the Nokken winch on my 101 and it works fine and have used it a few times including myself and other 101s.

If I did not have a winch on my 101 I would not put the Nokken on but go for a standard electric winch up front. If the engine is dead you have no winch with the Nokken, you have to put the gearbox in reverse to wind it out so is slow but you have 4 speeds to wind in (have been thinking if it is possible to change the wire direction on the winch to get faster wind out). Basically an electric winch has a lot more flexibility but of course has its own disadvantages eg flat battery. If you dont have the nokken you can put another 105litre fuel tank in that spot.

If you really want to put the nokken on you will not be disappointed but consider a standard electric winch as an option.

Garry

[Homestar]

I have the Nokken winch on my 101 and it works fine and have used it a few times including myself and other 101s.

If I did not have a winch on my 101 I would not put the Nokken on but go for a standard electric winch up front. If the engine is dead you have no winch with the Nokken, you have to put the gearbox in reverse to wind it out so is slow but you have 4 speeds to wind in (have been thinking if it is possible to change the wire direction on the winch to get faster wind out). Basically an electric winch has a lot more flexibility but of course has its own disadvantages eg flat battery. If you dont have the nokken you can put another 105litre fuel tank in that spot.

If you really want to put the nokken on you will not be disappointed but consider a standard electric winch as an option.

Garry

It has the Nokken winch, just needs a cable, new shaft from the gearbox, a couple of bearings and some TLC - all of which I’ve got, just not sorted up until now. While I’ve never had the engine fail, It’s also not like I’ll be 4WDing in it on my own either - again, it’s part of the trip prep - there will be other vehicles with me and the nice long cable on the Nokken including pulling from front or rear really gives it some flexibility. Short of 4 feet of water I’m not sure what would stop the engine either to be honest. I’ve already made and fitted a 160 litre tank where my standard tank wa so it has a range of just over 700KM already which does me fine.

[Homestar]

Ok, another day finished and a lot achieved.

Started the morning by assembling the troops in preparation for their help...

All present and accounted for Sir!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7893/47451696462_cf68c2337c_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fi9maC)IMG_0533 (https://flic.kr/p/2fi9maC) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Well the novelty wore off pretty quick...
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7901/32562329857_1cae3ed933_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/RBqsdi)IMG_0535 (https://flic.kr/p/RBqsdi) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Stripped down a few things to both tidy them up and give me better access to other things. With the new gauges the 5 minute dash board removal it provides is brilliant.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7812/47451696682_caae1b7829_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fi9meq)IMG_0531 (https://flic.kr/p/2fi9meq) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Also removed the booster and master cylinder - more on this on my thread in TC - Brakes - dimensions, ideal MC size for Defender calipers. (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/269916-brakes-dimensions-ideal-mc-size-defender-calipers.html)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7880/47451696182_dad1e52ad4_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fi9m5N)IMG_0537 (https://flic.kr/p/2fi9m5N) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

All old steering components are also out apart from the steering column/box and yes, the steering relay - it isn't rusted in there that bad, so its been getting plenty of Rost off plus all day and has the entire weight of the vehicle sitting on it - if it doesn't move in the next few days, I'll disassemble it in situ and hit it from the inside with the oxy then dry ice, see if that shifts it. It has to come right out to allow room for where the PS box goes.

While I had the hubs and old brakes off, thought it was an ideal time to slip the swivels off and check everything - both sides are like new in every way - wouldn't it have been nice if LR had used these axles in all their vehicles - they are bloody monsters compared with everything else they used.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7896/47451696252_171d33c441_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fi9m71)IMG_0534 (https://flic.kr/p/2fi9m71) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Both sides all done and cleaned ready for a bunch of new goodies coming tomorrow. Will put new wheel bearings in too even though the originals are fine, might as well as I will have new modified hubs come without them anyway.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7850/46589062415_e7a9fa9d19_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2dYV87P)IMG_0536 (https://flic.kr/p/2dYV87P) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[Homestar]

Well I have a big, very expensive pile of goodies in the garage tonight - hopefully take some pics and supply details tomorrow. 👍