Gav's 101.

[Homestar]

So, enough joking around, it's finally time to officially reveal one of the worst kept secrets of the last few weeks. I am now the proud new owner of a 101.:)

I've had a very hard time keeping my trap shut about this and I did a very bad job of it...:angel: The wait to finally lay my hands on it was painful, but it has all paid off.

It is a RAF import GS. It is in very good condition and mechanically nearly A1. It drives (and stops) very well, and to say I'm chuffed is an understatement.

This all came about because of my darling Wife saying I could add one to my collection. The fact she said it in a room full of Landy nuts (at Melrose) after consuming a bottle or two of the regions fine Shiraz didn't help her cause...:D. Thanks dear, I owe you one.:)

I don't think she really thought I'd find one, but with the help of a fellow forumite I was able to track this one down quite quickly. A big thanks to Mick_Marsh for all his help here - I never would have landed this deal without him.:)

I have a few questions to ask along the way, which I'm sure you will all be able to help me with. For now, just a few pics. It came with the Sankey trailer, which is also in top condition.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Cheers - Gav.:)

[101RRS]

Congrats - I know that vehicle and its previous owner and did one long outback trip with it - it is a top vehicle and you should get a lot of great use out of it.

Cheers

Garry

[Sitec]

Nice work! And sat on XZL's as well! Even better! Enjoy! :)

[Homestar]

Congrats - I know that vehicle and its previous owner and did one long outback trip with it - it is a top vehicle and you should get a lot of great use out of it.

Cheers

Garry

Yes, he told me about that trip and it seems to be a well known vehicle. My first job when I got it home was to wash a lot of the outback out the back of (and underneath) it...:D

[Homestar]

And sat on XZL's as well! Even better! Enjoy! :)

Yeah, but at the price these go for, it may be the last set it is shod with... Still got plenty of tread, so it will give me time to save up for a new set.:)

[Chops]

It's a top looking unit Gav, and it sounds just as good, I'd love to have one just like it,, but unfortunately Leeanne would never agree :(
Thanks for bringing it along to the weekends event,, I'll scab a drive next time :D

[Sitec]

Wear them out and you are doing some distance!! Just put up a post about clones of these tyres on Ebay UK. They're from Canada and a third of the price. Great looking truck tho, well done! Jealous as! My turn will come eventually.. ;)

[101RRS]

Just put up a post about clones of these tyres on Ebay UK. They're from Canada and a third of the price.

But when landed in Aust I suspect these clones would not be much cheaper than the original XZL Michelins. I have been quoted between $650 and $850 for the Michelins.

Garry

[101 Ron]

So, enough joking around, it's finally time to officially reveal one of the worst kept secrets of the last few weeks. I am now the proud new owner of a 101.:)

I've had a very hard time keeping my trap shut about this and I did a very bad job of it...:angel: The wait to finally lay my hands on it was painful, but it has all paid off.

It is a RAF import GS. It is in very good condition and mechanically nearly A1. It drives (and stops) very well, and to say I'm chuffed is an understatement.

This all came about because of my darling Wife saying I could add one to my collection. The fact she said it in a room full of Landy nuts (at Melrose) after consuming a bottle or two of the regions fine Shiraz didn't help her cause...:D. Thanks dear, I owe you one.:)

I don't think she really thought I'd find one, but with the help of a fellow forumite I was able to track this one down quite quickly. A big thanks to Mick_Marsh for all his help here - I never would have landed this deal without him.:)

I have a few questions to ask along the way, which I'm sure you will all be able to help me with. For now, just a few pics. It came with the Sankey trailer, which is also in top condition.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/D5F50B11-54F4-4DBC-B0B9-16E5B0DF33DB-3260-000005515576E735_zps316724b4.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/DSC_2645_zps09e74013.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/9FFB6FC9-E9B1-4234-81A2-7C9E74B2F7E0-3260-00000551955C4954_zpsb6518f91.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/A4BA8B47-1B76-43C6-B057-E8211CC10490-3260-00000551713F6A2D_zpse1d7d944.jpg

Cheers - Gav.:)

Gav you went about it the wrong way.
I just didnt tell my wife.
I got mine and when it appeared in the drive way at home , she didnt talk to me for a few weeks which was one of the most peaceful times of my life.:D

[Homestar]

Never though of it that way Ron, maybe I went about it the wrong way...:D

Further details and plans.
My plan for this vehicle is fairly straight forward - not much. I want to keep it very similar to what it is, but just clean it up and make it the best it can be - sort of wind the clock back to make it look a bit fresher and how it would have been closer to when it first went into service.

Now I'm not going to be a rivet counter here, and I may do a couple of things that are not strictly correct, but as long as the general vibe stays the same, that will be fine with me.

Having said that, I would really appreciate any input on things if I go to make a real clanger or if anyone has some constructive criticism.

First off I will be changing a lot of the wiring - like the fuse panel location - that's just a dumb spot. Even if you can see a blown fuse, I'm not sure how you are supposed to easily replace it.

I will mount a new fuse block in the battery compartment out of the way and add some new fuses and relays. Along the lines of what I did to the Classic for those who have seen it. Also I will mount a dual battery controller in there and have the 12 volt output on the trailer plug run through it, as I have mounted batteries and my fridge in the Sankey trailer and it worked really well on the weekend for accessibility and ease of use. I think the trailer will be going along with me all the time when I camp, so I only have to stick the bed and a few other bits in the back of the 101 when it is time to head off somewhere.

Underneath needs a new coat of bitumen paint as the old stuff is flaking off. While I'm under there I might get a tin of black paint out and repaint a few items that are showing some surface rust.

A few questions while I think of them:-
- What should be stencilled on the bridge plate? I have seen others with '4 on them, and some with 3/4 on them. I would have thought '4' would be correct as this would be the rounded up figure from the gross mass of the 101 - can anyone confirm this?

- What colour should the pintles - front and back - be painted? I have seen them black or red - which is correct? The hitch on the trailer is painted red, and that would provide some contrast, but would that look out of place? The fuel cap I is currently red, and I believe that is the correct colour.

- Trailer safety chain position - it doesn't have one, and the trailer doesn't have a chain and obviously never did, but I will have to register the trailer and a requirement for that is that it must have a safety chain. I want it to be as invisible as possible - anyone done this or got any ideas?

I'll leave it at that at the moment - I don't want to overload a single post. I'll have plenty more to ask along the way, and post pics of what I do along the way.

Cheers - Gav

[stuee]

Just on the bitumen undercoat I have read a few stories about rust being hidden under what looks like perfectly good bitumen coating. If you are going to spend some time underneath it maybe give it a very thorough going over. The previous owner of my 101 stripped it back originally due to some very serious rust on the chassis, much of it hidden.

Also I've forgone the bitumen coating on the chassis in favour of one of the polyurethane paints (POR15 or KBS Rust Seal in my case). Ill be looking at a modern ute tray liner if I need to redo under the panels, something like the raptor kit.

[33chinacars]

Hi Gav. Nice rig you've got there. Just a little bit jealous. Sure you will have lots of fun with it

Gary

[101RRS]

First off I will be changing a lot of the wiring - like the fuse panel location - that's just a dumb spot. Even if you can see a blown fuse, I'm not sure how you are supposed to easily replace it.

A few questions while I think of them:-
- What should be stencilled on the bridge plate? I have seen others with '4 on them, and some with 3/4 on them. I would have thought '4' would be correct as this would be the rounded up figure from the gross mass of the 101 - can anyone confirm this?

- What colour should the pintles - front and back - be painted? I have seen them black or red - which is correct? The hitch on the trailer is painted red, and that would provide some contrast, but would that look out of place? The fuel cap I is currently red, and I believe that is the correct colour.

- Trailer safety chain position - it doesn't have one, and the trailer doesn't have a chain and obviously never did, but I will have to register the trailer and a requirement for that is that it must have a safety chain. I want it to be as invisible as possible - anyone done this or got any ideas?

I'll leave it at that at the moment - I don't want to overload a single post. I'll have plenty more to ask along the way, and post pics of what I do along the way.

Cheers - Gav

Re the fuse holder - welcome to 101 ownership :p.

Remember that you do not have an Aust Army 101 and have a RAF 101 which are relatively few in numbers in the UK compared to Brit Army 101s. So when looking at doing work you need to research RAF 101s not Aust Army 101s.

Bridge Plates - as I understand it Brit 101s have an actual plate but Aust 101s do not - ours had a vinyl stick on decal. Pics I have seen of Brit Army 101s had a 3 on the plate (dunno what it means). The only Aust 101 I have seen with a bridge plate on it has a vertical C5 meaning the speed and weight (dunno what the specific numbers mean). What is the GVM on the plate in your vehicle - many Brits 101s were 1 tonners so have a GVM of just over 3t. Aussie 101s are 1.5T as such have a GVM of just over 3.5T - may make a difference to the numbers that go on the bridge plate.

Aussie 101s have pintles the same colour as the bumpers - black - RAF ones may be different. Aussie fuel caps are the same as the body colour - olive drab.

Safety chains - what tow hitch arrangment to you have - Aussie 101s have a rapier hitch like the one below (pintle hook removed) and you can just drill a hole in an appropriate spot that will take a trailer chain shackle. I suspect yours may not have a rapier hitch and has the pintle bolted direct to the rear cross member. If so - there is a hole about 2" in diameter to the left that could be used to shackle a trailer with a longer chain.

[drifter]

Lovely looking vehicle. Those aerials look like it's rigged for game fishing :D

Very impressed with what you have shown so far and would be happy to see any more pics you may have of it.

[Homestar]

Lovely looking vehicle. Those aerials look like it's rigged for game fishing :D

Very impressed with what you have shown so far and would be happy to see any more pics you may have of it.

Thanks. Haven't got too many pics at the moment, but here's a good one of mine next to an Australian Army version that was taken on the weekend.:). An earlier photo I posted showed part of it, but this is a better pic.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Mick_Marsh]

Gav's 101 has a bridge plate already popriveted to the front.

The rear hitch is:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


Gav, I think you should make up what PeterP made up. I think it's just bolt on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/163.jpg

[drifter]

Maybe the red fuel cap is following the convention of red=petrol; yellow=diesel as per civilian jerry cans?

[Homestar]

Maybe the red fuel cap is following the convention of red=petrol; yellow=diesel as per civilian jerry cans?

Not sure, but if you google 101's and look at the pics, there are a lot of Military resto's showing the red cap and red pintle so there must have been some like this, but where it came from, I'm not sure. I may be able to get an answer from the 101 club on this as there seem to be a few on there that would know the details of the British stuff.

Cheers - Gav

[The ho har's]

Gav's 101 has a bridge plate already popriveted to the front.

The rear hitch is:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=60996&stc=1&d=1369636281


Gav, I think you should make up what PeterP made up. I think it's just bolt on.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/163.jpg

Speeking of PeterP, he was having trouble with his brakes the other week, so Harry and ZD534 went over to help:) Harry took Can Do for a spin, said it drove nicely:)

Mrs hh:angel:

[The ho har's]

Thanks. Haven't got too many pics at the moment, but here's a good one of mine next to an Australian Army version that was taken on the weekend.:). An earlier photo I posted showed part of it, but this is a better pic.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


How about we get 3 101's together camping:)

We are probably heading to Corowa next year, if you both do the same we will have 3, tho Garrycol and Iain may bring theirs so that will be 5:D Now to work on sleepy and Ron;) so 7 oh what a sight:D:D

As for Melrose we won't be back till 2015 and then we will probably do the Flinders Rangers for a week or 2:cool:

Mrs hh:angel:

[MacMan]

Haven't got too many pics at the moment...


Let's plan something - I'd love to take some pictures of it for my portfolio.

I know you're not really wanting to get it sideways, but I have a bit too much of this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/152.jpg

And not enough of this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/153.jpg

[The ho har's]

101Ron can you swing it;) I know you are busy with your work, Maybe?? Would be great to to see the 101's show the jeeps up:cool: Well not show them up so much but a few 101's there would be super:cool::D

BTW What is it the year for??

Mrs hh:angel:

[101 Ron]

The best we have done in recent years has been Four 101s together in NSW
About Ten years ago I think something like Six 101s got together down in Victoria.
I am keen on going to another Corowa........but there is no one to relieve me at work if I go.

[Mick_Marsh]

There were three (or was it four) at Corowa this year.
Getting three together is no big deal. I see it all the time.

Corowa..... Can we do it?
Add to your list AJ, AJ''s mate (Misguided), PeterP (from up your way), (we can excuse Stuee, DODGE and Lardy), 101FC (if James gets his manifolds fixed) and Dave Jump (who I haven't heard from for a while).

[101 Ron]

YEAR OF THE 101 ?

[Homestar]

Corowa is definitely on my list for next year, so count me in.:)

[Homestar]

Let's plan something - I'd love to take some pictures of it for my portfolio.

I know you're not really wanting to get it sideways, but I have a bit too much of this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/152.jpg

And not enough of this:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/05/153.jpg

No probs at all mate. Happy to pick you up and head out somewhere to get some pics any time you want. Keep an eye on the weather forecast and if there is a fine Saturday or Sunday that suits, just let me know.:)

[The ho har's]

There were three (or was it four) at Corowa this year.
Getting three together is no big deal. I see it all the time.

Corowa..... Can we do it?
Add to your list AJ, AJ''s mate (Misguided), PeterP (from up your way), (we can excuse Stuee, DODGE and Lardy), 101FC (if James gets his manifolds fixed) and Dave Jump (who I haven't heard from for a while).

AJ's mate must be Iain in Misguided, we are flat out getting PeterP to take his up up the Bundy military Swin-in this year:( let alone Corowa

So us , you, Iain, AJ, Gav, Ron, Garry,

Anyhone else??

Mrs hh:angel:


SORRY Gav we have taken over your thread:(:D;)

[The ho har's]

hmmm since we are going we we will put a trip up in our club area and start a page for the trip;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Mick_Marsh]

AJ's mate must be Iain in Misguided, we are flat out getting PeterP to take his up up the Bundy military Swin-in this year:( let alone Corowa

So us , you, Iain, AJ, Gav, Ron, Garry,

Anyhone else??

Mrs hh:angel:


SORRY Gav we have taken over your thread:(:D;)
Misguided and Misguided II were both up at Corowa this year along with AJ.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61006&stc=1&d=1369649506

Iain's Miguided 2 in the foreground. Then AJ's. Then AJ's mate's Misguided.

I reckon if we worked at it, we could get ten or eleven up there.

[Homestar]

SORRY Gav we have taken over your thread:(:D;)

Nil problemo!:D

[Sleepy]

Great work Gav, I love that vehicle and was so close to buying it when I changed my mind. I reckon you may have got it a little cheaper than he was willing to go two years ago. Anyway good onya.

Yes I have had the wiring tidied up on mine too - put some blade fuses in easy reach.
I am not going to make any promises (like last weekend:( - usually Murphies law gets me!!) but would love to come up to Corowa too.

[BreakingBad]

- What colour should the pintles - front and back - be painted? I have seen them black or red - which is correct?

Hi Gav, 101 looks great.

Anyway, I've been looking into rotating pintle hooks lately (just purchased one via ebay) and I came across a site that sells them saying

"Rotating tow hitch assembly, as used on all military variants.

Note these are now black in colour."

Perhaps the difference in colour is from a particular date?

[The ho har's]

Noticed you don't have a crank handle:o

Harry, being the nice giving person he is, will swap you your Michelins for a crank handle:D

Deal;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Noticed you don't have a crank handle:o

Harry, being the nice giving person he is, will swap you your Michelins for a crank handle:D

Deal;)

Mrs hh:angel:

Hmmm... Let me think about that for a while and I'll get back to you...




Thought about it.... No. Thank Harry for his very generous offer though...:D

[The ho har's]

Back to tyres... what does Mick have on his, Silverstones?? Are yours noisy like silverstones?

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Not sure what Mick is running, but the Michelins are fairly quite. I can hear the engine over the tyre noise easily. Overall I wouldn't consider it any noisier than driving a series LR.

[Chops]

Not sure what Mick is running, but the Michelins are fairly quite. I can hear the engine over the tyre noise easily. Overall I wouldn't consider it any noisier than driving a series LR.

With the engine sounding as sweet (and rather loud) as it does,,, it'd be hard to hear anything else over it anyway,, :angel: And who'd want to :D

[Homestar]

With the engine sounding as sweet (and rather loud) as it does,,, it'd be hard to hear anything else over it anyway,, :angel: And who'd want to :D

Agreed! I think it may be a bit louder than others, but I LOVE the way it sounds...:D

[The ho har's]

With the engine sounding as sweet (and rather loud) as it does,,, it'd be hard to hear anything else over it anyway,, :angel: And who'd want to :D


Agreed! I think it may be a bit louder than others, but I LOVE the way it sounds...:D


OH our engine sounds sweet as well:D we just can't hear it in 'herc' with those bloody tyres:mad:

Mrs hh:angel:

[Mick_Marsh]

With the engine sounding as sweet (and rather loud) as it does,,, it'd be hard to hear anything else over it anyway,, :angel: And who'd want to :D
You told me it was quiet!!!!

Yes, the Silverstones are quite noisy. They make the hybrid sound rather quiet.
In a relative way.

I'll be asking my tyreman for a set of Michies and a set of bar treads.

[101RRS]

Perhaps the difference in colour is from a particular date?

More like dottering old farts with too much time on their hands wanting various bits stand out on their vehicles - the same people also paint their grease nibbles and oil filler and drains red.

Garry

[Homestar]

More like dottering old farts with too much time on their hands wanting various bits stand out on their vehicles - the same people also paint their grease nibbles and oil filler and drains red.

Garry

:D. That was one of my thoughts, as in England there are some super clean examples with the gal strips on the side showing for contrast. While these look good, I don't want to go own that track. I just want a clean, original look.

Cheers - Gav

[101RRS]

I cannot speak for Brit 101s but Aussie Army 101s had a mix of exposed gal capping or painted capping - mine was all painted but I have in service pics of 101s with them exposed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/1013_zps25ab2192.jpg.html)

I think here is an owner with too much time on his hands - even the hub caps are red.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/101bid_zps1f456526.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/101bid_zps1f456526.jpg.html)

[Mick_Marsh]

Interesting.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/1013_zps25ab2192.jpg

The Gal ain't exposed now.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Also there is now a rubber flare on the front wheel arch.
I'd say the b&w photo was taken before it actually entered service. There may have been a few mods done to them before they were assigned. Maybe painting the gal capping was one of them.
Just guessing there.

[101RRS]

Maybe but I don't think so - more like they came into service with exposed gal when time came to freshen up the paint they soon realised what a pain it was to mask the the gal and just painted over it.

Here is another in service pic with gal exposed on a well used 101 and another that looks like it has just been painted with gal painted.

Oh dear - I have become a Rivet Counter - all your fault Mick. Oh notice none of the pics have the rubber under the doors so that must have been an in service up upgrade though the trials 101s (Misguided 2) had them on from the start.

Garry

PS - I know how to ad pics as thumb nails and how to put pics in the post via photobucket etc but how to you have pics as thumb nails and in the post as one process?

[Sitec]

Re the red bits.... When I first got mine in the UK 15+ yrs ago the front NATO hitch, the rear NATO hitch, the fuel filler cap and the half shaft bolts were all red... When I re sprayed it there were several layers of red on all these bits.... Not up on the military spec but there were/are a lot running around the UK with these red bits...

[bee utey]

PS - I know how to ad pics as thumb nails and how to put pics in the post via photobucket etc but how to you have pics as thumb nails and in the post as one process?

Open your thumbnail by clicking on it, copy the URL off the address bar, return to your post, set the cursor where you want the pic, click the "insert image" button above the post window and paste the address into the text box and click OK.

[Chops]

You told me it was quiet!!!!

Yes, the Silverstones are quite noisy. They make the hybrid sound rather quiet.
In a relative way.

I'll be asking my tyreman for a set of Michies and a set of bar treads.


Yours is quieter,,, (something about a noisy starter motor waking me in the morning,, :angel:)

[Mick_Marsh]

Yours is quieter,,, (something about a noisy starter motor waking me in the morning,, :angel:)
No sleep ins on camp.
Everyone should have been up by five.

[Homestar]

PS - I know how to ad pics as thumb nails and how to put pics in the post via photobucket etc but how to you have pics as thumb nails and in the post as one process?

Like Bee Utey said, so you end up with this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/61074d1369801212-gavs-101-truck09.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/61075d1369801282-gavs-101-landrovertruck01.jpg

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-variations/61076d1369801312-gavs-101-landrovertruck02.jpg

[101 Ron]

The top colour photo was taken at 2EME services just near Homebush railway station.
I did some of my training there for M816 medium wreaker close to the time the photo was taken.
I fact my father was O.C of 2 EME services for a few years too.
I guess it must have been a open day to have a 101 from north head at that location.

[Homestar]

Well, I have made the first 'modification' to it.... One which some may think looks a bit stupid, but I just had to. I'll take some pics when it is light, but basically I have replaced the headlights....

Not earth ****tering, and I have kept the sealed beams, so if I want it to look original, it will only take 5 minutes, and 6 screws.

I have fitted a set of crystal inserts with some good quality (Phillips) globes. Along with a couple of relays and some fuses that are in a place you don't need to be a contortionist to reach, the results are amazing...:)

Before, I could hardly see in front of me - hanging a lighter out of the window would have been more effective. Now I have bright white lights that are really very good.

They don't really suit it, but I can live with them as I do drive it a bit at night, and it was bloody dangerous the way it was.

Now I just need to do all the other wiring...:D. I'll start on that on the weekend, I have made some preliminary drawings and I have identified most circuits that need an upgrade. The fuse box will now live in the battery box, along with about 6 relays, so everything will be easy to get at, dry and EVERYTHING will be protected, not just a select few circuits like there are now.

Looks like the dash is a bit of a pain to get out, but that's the first thing I need to move to tidy up the awful Lucas mess... It took me 2 weeks to do the RRC, I'll see if I can get sorted in less time than that...:)

Cheers - Gav

[Sleepy]

Good one gav. You've broken the ice.
(Hey don't you just love the swear filter I was try to work out what that word was!!! :lol2: )

[Homestar]

Yeah, the swear filter is very sharp.

That should be earth s h a t t e r I n g.

Just noticed on the ipad, I can't put a small I in - it keeps changing it when I space things out...:D

[101RRS]

Looks like the dash is a bit of a pain to get out, but that's the first thing I need to move to tidy up the awful Lucas mess... It took me 2 weeks to do the RRC, I'll see if I can get sorted in less time than that...:)

Cheers - Gav

That may not be a great decision - to say it is a pain is an understatement - the wiring looms behind are just too short.

If you are in a wiring mood - I would cut the looms and do the wiring to the equipment on the dash and have one or two or three plugs that connects the dash wiring to the loom.

You have been warned :).

Garry

[Homestar]

Ahhhh, hadn't thought of that Garry. I may just do that. I think I will also need to remove the engine temp and oil temp thermocouples. Hope they aren't seized in or I will be in a world of ****...

Stay tuned, I will be attempting this on the weekend (instead of going up o Echuca for the weekend:(). But that's another story.

I'll take a heap of pics and do a tutorial on it for others if someone ever wants to have a crack themselves.:)

[Mick_Marsh]

Hey Gav, why does the word pain get filtered out?
The temp gauges are or should be capillary type. The water one is as rare as and the oil one will need an extension on your bank loan.
If you decide to replace them (which I'm sure you won't) poor unemployed me will swap you a good deal of cash for them.

[101RRS]

The temp gauges are or should be capillary type. The water one is as rare as and the oil one will need an extension on your bank loan.
If you decide to replace them (which I'm sure you won't) poor unemployed me will swap you a good deal of cash for them.

They are both capillary - dunno about the oil one but the water one which goes in the top of the thermostat housing can get corroded in and break off the top of the housing - I have done it but luckily my local radiator guy has the best TIG in Canberra and can weld them up - the aluminium in them is of weldable quality.

The gauges and capillary come up on ebay UK all the time. I bought them recently for about 25 pounds each - here ate some links but the price of the water gauge is over the top.

GENUINE LAND ROVER 101 FORWARD CONTROL TEMPERATURE GAUGE PART NO 589528 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-LAND-ROVER-101-FORWARD-CONTROL-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-PART-NO-589528-/150922927751?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2323b51e87)

GENUINE LAND ROVER MILITARY OILTEMP GAUGE SERIES 101 FWC LIGHTWEIGHT P NO 579067 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-LAND-ROVER-MILITARY-OILTEMP-GAUGE-SERIES-101-FWC-LIGHTWEIGHT-P-NO-579067-/160990146799?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257bc2b0ef)

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

They are both capillary - dunno about the oil one but the water one which goes in the top of the thermostat housing can get corroded in and break off the top of the housing - I have done it but luckily my local radiator guy has the best TIG in Canberra and can weld them up - the aluminium in them is of weldable quality.

The gauges and capillary come up on ebay UK all the time. I bought them recently for about 25 pounds each - here ate some links but the price of the water gauge is over the top.

GENUINE LAND ROVER 101 FORWARD CONTROL TEMPERATURE GAUGE PART NO 589528 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-LAND-ROVER-101-FORWARD-CONTROL-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-PART-NO-589528-/150922927751?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2323b51e87)

GENUINE LAND ROVER MILITARY OILTEMP GAUGE SERIES 101 FWC LIGHTWEIGHT P NO 579067 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-LAND-ROVER-MILITARY-OILTEMP-GAUGE-SERIES-101-FWC-LIGHTWEIGHT-P-NO-579067-/160990146799?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item257bc2b0ef)

Garry
Those two oil temp gauges are already in my watchlist and have been for some time.
The fellow I take the Mercs to reckons he knows a fellow who fixes capillary temp gauges. So, if you have a broken one, don't throw it out. Throw it in my direction.

[stuee]

I ended up getting one of the capillary oil temp gauges from John Cradock through ebay. Bid for a few before I finally got one. I steered clear of the water temp gauges due to the price and the reports I kept reading that they did not fit properly, but as has been pointed out it may work if routed differently.

I have sourced a series 3 electric water temp gauge for time being and my intention is to take my dead water and oil gauges to a local instrument restorer to bring back to life at some point in the future when I have money to throw about.

I also have a VDO electric gauge that will sit in one of the three 52mm holes as a backup gauge (or rather a more reliable gauge).

If you're looking for new bulbs for the instrument cluster I sourced modern fittings and replacements from here:
Electrical Miscellany Page 2 (http://www.dingocroft.co.uk/acatalog/Electrical_Miscellany-p2.html)

[Mick_Marsh]

I steered clear of the water temp gauges due to the price and the reports I kept reading that they did not fit properly, but as has been pointed out it may work if routed differently.
That's because the short ones are for a lightweight. The 101 gauges ar longer.

[stuee]

That's because the short ones are for a lightweight. The 101 gauges ar longer.

In addition to that some of the threads I read on the club forum were saying that the gauges they were buying were labelled specifically as a 101 gauge, yet turned out to be lightweight gauge. I wonder if this is because there is more 101 owners chasing the capillary gauges over lightweight owners so sellers are labelling them differently?

[Mick_Marsh]

In addition to that some of the threads I read on the club forum were saying that the gauges they were buying were labelled specifically as a 101 gauge, yet turned out to be lightweight gauge. I wonder if this is because there is more 101 owners chasing the capillary gauges over lightweight owners so sellers are labelling them differently?
Could be. I recently bought some parts the seller advertised as 101 (amongst other vehicles). Turns out they were from a lightweight and were different to the part on the 101.
I kept the parts. I'll have to find a lightweight to put them on now.

[101RRS]

You lot have got me worried now - mine are still in the boxes and I haven't checked the length of the capillary tubes.

Ignorance is bliss. :(

Garry

[Homestar]

Wow, a lot goes on here while I'm not looking...:D

I have a question regarding fitting the overdrive I have purchased. The cable for this is the same as the hi/low cable right? Just had a look for one and Craddocks want nearly 100 quid, but the 101 Club shop has them for around 40.

Hi/Lo control cable - Detailed item view - 101ClubShop (http://www.101clubshop.org/shop/article_595176/Hi_Lo-control-cable.html'sessid=sgQF2k8xgo31ADuyCuZ67O95UyIvi5o3 ODE1IoGLkgvfnpndEUXF1yatddbBKrSJ&shop_param=cid%3D16%26aid%3D595176%26)

Now I have signed up and paid my fees, but I have no idea how long it will be before I get a member number. How long does it take to get something from them anyway?

Just thinking if it is going to take ages to get my member number that someone could buy one on my behalf, or if someone has a good or new one they could 'lend' me and I'll replace it with a new one when I can get one?

I know I'm being impatient, but once I get the overdrive, I will have an overwhelming urge to bung it straight in...:D

Also, any advice on fitting one would be appreciated. The cable, lever and mechanism should be fine - is there anything I need to look out for when fitting the unit to the back of the box? Not quite sure what is the go as far as that is concerned. What needs to come off/out/in etc.

Oh, and is there a lever that is readily available, or is it easier just to fabricate one from scratch?

Cheers - Gav

[Homestar]

Just got a PM on the 101 club forum from Les - he is sending me the Build and Military history for my 101! Excited!:)

[101RRS]

No longer a member of the 101 club due to their poor parts service and draconian attitudes to the running of their forum.

Unless things have changed you might have to wait for a while for your parts - if they arrive. :wasntme:

I got my cable made locally (Milperra in Sydney) by a cable maker.

Installing the O/D is straight forward - see attached doc if you don't already have it. The circlips can be a pain and make sure you tie everything with a piece of cotton where you can so that they do not fall down inside the tfr case.

On mine I used the winch lever and made a new winch lever and moved the new winch lever to the far left, the hi/lo lever in the middle and the O/D lever closest to the driver. However when the winch lever was used it was too weak and snapped off just under the knob - that was four years ago and the temporary metal broom stick that I used with a Lada Niva tfr case knob on top is still there - looks dog ugly but works as the lever needs to be long to get leverage - the O/D is longest, then Hi/Lo and winch is shortest as in the dark you would not want to try and change from Hi to Low on the move.

I have set mine up so that normal drive is with the lever to the rear and O/D is forward - so that all levers are back in the normal position. If I remember Ron has his O/D lever the opposite way around. In my setup the O/d activating lever at the end of the cable on top of the Tfr case points down and on Rons it points up - on mine the lever touches the tray floor if it is up - as mine is down it clears everything but has a kink in the end of the cable.

Clear as mud - until you go to install - I hope you got everything with the O/D including the tfr case brackets and levers.

I don't have any pics of mine but Ron has some of his - my back end lever arrangement is a mirror of his.

Garry

[101 Ron]

Should be some old threads and pics somewhere on this site if you look.
All the shift cables including the park brake cable we have able to get made in Sydney by con wire.
I do have some specs, be it is easier just to give them a sample and clearly explain you don't want the old cable chopped up to make a new one.( they are temped to do this to save time)
My O/D was no problem to fit, but according to different people it helps if you leave to main gearbox in 3rd gear ? when doing the job as it stops something falling out of the gearbox????

Take note I fitted new cables though out and the quality of use for hi/lo range and winch improved out of sight...............the old cables after 35 years bind up.
Replacing the short parkbrake cable and fitting a grease nipple on the bellcrank under the drivers floor allows the park brake to hold the 101 on any hill by applying it with my little finger pulling on the lever.

[101 Ron]

As Garrycol has stated our lever arrangements are opposite to one another so to speak.


Direct drive
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1261.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/056.jpg.html)

Overdrive enguaged
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1262.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/055.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Some more pics.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1256.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/054.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1257.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/053.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1258.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/052.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1259.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/051.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1260.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/050.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I made a new alloy bracket to hold the high /low shift cable.
It would be possible to rework the standard bracket.
Note cut away in new alloy bracket to locate and secure speedo cable or is it high/low cable ?????
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1254.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/005-2.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1255.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/006-2.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

The hand lever in the cabin was home made and I used a old series 2a 4wd yellow knob.
Below is old and new cables.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1252.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/PC020634.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1253.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/PC020631.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1250.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101cablespecs001.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/1251.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/001-7.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

Bacicat I think you owe me a beer.
I do have samples of the sizes of cable somewhere ??????
May be its time to do another run of cables ?????????

What people do on the computer when they cannot sleep at night.

[Homestar]

Wow, thanks heaps Ron! I certainly do owe you a beer or 3.:)

Hope you finally found some sleep. I occasionally suffer insomnia myself and I know how hard it can be.

Cheers - Gav.

[stuee]

Now I have signed up and paid my fees, but I have no idea how long it will be before I get a member number. How long does it take to get something from them anyway?


I don't know if you read about my experience in my build thread Gav but I gave up after three months and canned the order. Funnily enough I was told it was packed on the bench and ready to go by email only 2 days after I cancelled the order.

I asked prior to the order if all the items I wanted were in stock. Darren never checked, and my numerous requests to only ship what was in stock after I found out, both by phone and email, were ignored. They then put up the online shop and serviced those orders as a higher priority, and completed the old email orders in their spare time. I was even more incensed seeing some of the items I was supposed to be ordering go out of stock on the new online shop because they hadn't got to my order. They got shirty on the forum when I brought it up saying if I expect commercial levels of service I should go elsewhere. So I did.

[Homestar]

Ron, just noticed on the drawings you have of the cables, that one is 113" and the other is 101" - which length is the one I need for the overdrive? I was going to contact Conwire and see how quick they could make me one up.

Cheers - Gav

[101RRS]

Some pics of my arrangement - basically the opposite of Ron's and more logical ;).

The O/D end - basically the same as Ron's but the lever is down - best for getting the dash lever in the right place and I do not have room under the tray floor for the lever to be up as I have extra insulation there.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P6070049_zps82314119.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P6070049_zps82314119.jpg.html)

The dash end - in the normal position - all back - what you use the most the o/d is nearest (temporary lever) round knob so you do not get them mixed up at night.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P6070051_zps96bc5482.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P6070051_zps96bc5482.jpg.html)

The dash end - in the O/D position - again closest to the driver - no stretching to use it.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P6070052_zpse737d62c.jpg (http://s42.photobucket.com/user/gazzz21/media/Forum%20Posts%20Album/P6070052_zpse737d62c.jpg.html)

Garry

[Homestar]

Go the dash out, a bit fiddly, but not hard. I read the manual before I started, and did basically what that said, which is to remove everything and leave it attached to the wiring - and it worked quite well. There are 2 wiring saddles attached to the back of the dash panel which were a bit of a pain, but now I can get to the wiring to start fixing it. Basically I will move the fuse box, add a few more circuits, and make the dash wiring removable with the dash so I can put it back together easily. Here's a shot of the factory 'wiring' - I use that term loosely - that resides under the dash.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61474&d=1370581738

[Homestar]

Thanks for your photos Garry. Not sure which way I will go yet - doesn't look too hard to make it go either way. I like the idea of all the levers in a row, but pushing the lever forward to engage the overdrive seems a bit counter intuitive to me. I'll have to mount it all and figure out which way works best for me. I'm probably still a couple of weeks away from installing it, so I have a bit of time to think about it.:)

Cheers - Gav

[stuee]

Ill be keen to see how you clean up your dash wiring Gav. After the advice of others I too am trying to make it a simple affair to remove the dash. I'm still scratching my head on the best way to do mine. There's plenty of options but not one I'm completely happy with yet.

At the moment I'm leaning towards a few plugs for sensor wires etc and trying to keep as much wiring on the dash as possible when its pulled out (i.e all the dash illumination) and enough slack on the mechanical gauge so that it can be removed. Then there's the problem of laying it all out and actually doing it :eek:

[101 Ron]

I can not tell you the length currently.
I will have to find a old cable and let you know.
I usually post a sample so they don't stuff it up.
Where the drawings good enough if they know the length ?

[101 Ron]

I have been busy
Found my spare cables.
Hi/low transfercase 101 inches all up length with 96inches on the outer.
You should order Two,............One being for the Transfercase and the other for Overdrive.
It is just as easy to replace both while you are at it and I bet the original transfercase one will be stiff as.

The cable which is 113 inches all up length should be the PTO/winch cable.
Make certain they supply two ball ends and plates per cable.
The replacement cable will be a lighter duty one , but mine have been working fine for Four years or more.
Ensure they supply the forks and clevis pins as per the pics to go on the inner cable ends.

[Mick_Marsh]

Gav,
If you want to look at an overdrive in situ up close and personal, my 101 is in the driveway.
I'm about to order some stuff from the 101 club. We'll chat later.

[Homestar]

At the moment I'm leaning towards a few plugs for sensor wires etc and trying to keep as much wiring on the dash as possible when its pulled out (i.e all the dash illumination) and enough slack on the mechanical gauge so that it can be removed. Then there's the problem of laying it all out and actually doing it :eek:
My thoughts at the moment is to scrap the relays and flasher unit that reside on the RHS kick panel, and relocate them where the fuse block is going - in the battery box. One of the relays there was Badly corroded and starting to cook the Irving as well - it was on borrowed time. This will eliminate the wiring out of he RHS of the dash.

My aim is to have a set of plugs on the LHS of the dash loom that will plug into sockets to make fitting and removal easier, and allow everything to stay mounted on the dash panel. The easiest way or the mechanical gauges I think is to leave enough slack to move the dash up, then unscrew them from the back of the meter panel - this is what I did when removing the dash, although I pulled both of them out afterwards so I can clean everything up.

You need o pull the steering wheel off to do this, but it gives you heaps more room or everything. I also removed all the aftermarket wiring that had been done as I wasn't happy with it. There was some dodgey wiring to the dizzy and coil which was also on borrowed time - stuff that had been put in when the electronic dizzy was fitted.

Can't seem to get more than 1 photo at a time to attach...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61475&d=1370594472

[Homestar]

Another...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61477&d=1370594799

[Sitec]

Wow! Someone's getting right into it! Well done. Re overdrive, I had the same prob years ago and 'said club' were just as slow years ago! I used my 'High/Low' cable to work the overdrive as I used it a lot, and slid underneath on a piece of mat to engage low when I needed it which was rare as with the thumping great diesel seemed to go anywhere in high!

[stuee]

My thoughts at the moment is to scrap the relays and flasher unit that reside on the RHS kick panel, and relocate them where the fuse block is going - in the battery box. One of the relays there was Badly corroded and starting to cook the Irving as well - it was on borrowed time. This will eliminate the wiring out of he RHS of the dash.

My aim is to have a set of plugs on the LHS of the dash loom that will plug into sockets to make fitting and removal easier, and allow everything to stay mounted on the dash panel. The easiest way or the mechanical gauges I think is to leave enough slack to move the dash up, then unscrew them from the back of the meter panel - this is what I did when removing the dash, although I pulled both of them out afterwards so I can clean everything up.


Due to space limitations I've put modern relays back in the factory location as I didn't want my battery box to get too crowded, or run cables back and forth unnecessarily (well more than what a boot mounted wiring kit has anyway). I now have four relays for ign accessories (inc heater), high beam, low beam and spotties (future). Flasher units are part of the painless wiring kit that I have purchased so are located on the main fuse panel in the battery box. The only issue I've found with this is it doesnt give me the C2 pin for the trailer warning lamp so I need to set up a circuit to do this for me.

I've attached a pdf of my circuit diagram for the dash so far (its a work in progress and may change quite drastically, see page 2 of pdf). At the moment there are six plugs from 3 to 6 way. I still need to account for the wiper switch, future spotties switch, ignition light and brake test light. So that will be at least seven plugs total. This is all with no convoy lamps or infra red lights. If I could get good mil spec multi-pin connector cheap I'd consider that instead but will look at the weather proof automotive connectors by narva and the like which seem to stop at 6 pins. edit* I have been thinking if weatherproof connectors are really necessary under the dash though, I just see them giving much longer life than the standard automotive connectors.

[Homestar]

Looks ok Stuee. Would it be easier to use the original style of flasher relay to give you the C2 output for the trailer?

Connectors I will be using are Land Rover units from a D2 - just using what was lying around (At Dave's Place...:angel:).

Not sure if yours is a 12 or 24 model, but mine is a 12 volt version and there is a ton of room in the battery box, so everything is going in there. I'll make a new loom to connect the relays through to the factory loom.

I'm lucky as far as wiring goes, I'm a Sparky by trade who does engine & switchboard control for a living, so a 101 is straight forward. Usually up to my armpits in PLC's and Microprocessor control systems. :)

I'll see where it all leads tomorrow after I prep and repaint the dash and mount everything back in there.

[bee utey]

A note on flasher cans: you can use later model (RRC and other vehicle) electronic flasher cans by simply providing an earth connection for it. These are much more stable in their flash rates than the old thermo types. terminal 49 to +ve, terminal 49a to load, terminal 31 to earth, C trailer pilot and C2 vehicle pilot.

[stuee]

Looks ok Stuee. Would it be easier to use the original style of flasher relay to give you the C2 output for the trailer?

Connectors I will be using are Land Rover units from a D2 - just using what was lying around (At Dave's Place...:angel:).

Not sure if yours is a 12 or 24 model, but mine is a 12 volt version and there is a ton of room in the battery box, so everything is going in there. I'll make a new loom to connect the relays through to the factory loom.

I'm lucky as far as wiring goes, I'm a Sparky by trade who does engine & switchboard control for a living, so a 101 is straight forward. Usually up to my armpits in PLC's and Microprocessor control systems. :)

I'll see where it all leads tomorrow after I prep and repaint the dash and mount everything back in there.

Mines a 12V. At the moment the flashers are neatly housed for me in the wiring kit fuse panel, I hadn't thought of modifying the fuse panel but there's no reason I cant pull it out (the flasher) and wire in a a 4 pin jobbie rather than the standard 2 pin flasher it has now for the indicators.

I've put a link below of how my battery compartment is looking at the moment (I really need to update my thread with it). With a large cranking battery and my fuse panel its not too bad but I still have an additional blue sea fuse panel to go in (so I can relay the headlights and add accessories later) and further down the track a DBS controller. Could potentially squeeze the relays in too but unfortunately I'm not a sparky by trade so I don't think I'd be able to execute it that well :p

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss144/stuee69/101FC%20Project/Electrical/P1030400.jpg

[Homestar]

Well, the 101 Club Historian sent me through copies of the vehicle records from its Military life.:). It has seen action.... Nowhere...:D. In fact, it looks like it was never issued to anyone and spent its whole life sitting in a store. This leaves me in a bit of a conundrum, as it seems it may well have never had a coat of paint other than the bronze olive that Land Rover painted it. The current camo paint job was almost certainly done once it came into civilian life. So, do I keep it the way it is, or take it back to how it was... Not sure at the moment.

A quote from Les 'From this, I gather the vehicle was one of those sold off in gloss bronze green non issued mint condition to the dealer or 1st civvy owner. '

Pretty happy about that, and it seems to confirm that the current low kM are genuine.

Plenty to be thinking about.

[101RRS]

Not sure if yours is a 12 or 24 model, but mine is a 12 volt version and there is a ton of room in the battery box, so everything is going in there.

Was a good spot for you aux battery but if you fill it up with other gear then nothing will fit - there is stacks of room under the dash area on the passenger side on the inside of the nose cone - easy to get too standing on the ground with passenger door open.

Garry

[Homestar]

I won't need any room there for an auxiliary battery as I've stuck 2 in the sankey trailer I have with it and have the fridge in there. Worked really well when I went camping the other weekend in it.:). It kept the back of the 101 clear for a nice big comfy bed.:) but I'll check that out - it could simplify the wiring.

I am using the auxiliary supply through the NATO 12 pin socket and have used a big diode I had kicking around to ensure current flow is only one way. I'll put a proper system in at some stage. I'll be running that circuit through its own fuse as well.

[Sitec]

Here's a pic of one in Bronze Green. What's Bronze Olive?....

[101RRS]

Worked really well when I went camping the other weekend in it.:). It kept the back of the 101 clear for a nice big comfy bed.:) but I'll check that out - it could simplify the wiring.


When I go away in the 101 I normally do not tow a trailer and sleep in a comfy bed in the back cuddling up to the LPG gas tank. There is still room for the fridge so additional power is needed. As my 101 is 24v I have 2 batteries in the battery box (am thinking of also putting in the ignition coil and ignition amplifier in there away form water) so I have my Aux battery in a box where the spare wheel would normally go. I am thinking of moving it later to the front of one of the rear wheel arches.

Garry

[101RRS]

Here's a pic of one in Bronze Green. What's Bronze Olive?....

I think he means Olive Drab but Gavs would not have been painted that originally as it is an Aussie Army Colour. Given the history Gav put up it would have had the paint scheme you indicated in the pic - Deep Bronze Green.

Gav I wouldn't discount the cam on yours just yet as I have seen some in -service pics of RAF 101s and many had cam paint jobs - just black over the base colour. (which does look closer to our Olive Drab than Deep Bronze Green)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61498&d=1370659301

[Homestar]

I'm probably getting my colour mixed up - sorry or the confusion. Garry, here's the rub on it being painted in camo - it never went into service. It was delivered to the store from LR and stayed there for 21 years before being struck off and sold at auction. Les seems to think it is one of a few that would never have been painted in its life, so it went to auction still in the gloss deep bronze green that LR painted it.

This is partially confirmed by the PO who said the uy that imported it painted a camo colour scheme on it, and then it was gone over again a few years later. The current paint is only 1 or 2 Coates thick, and peels off easily revealing the deep bronze paintwork...

What to do, what to do... I really do like the camo paint job, so I may just freshen this up - it would be heaps easier than taking it back to the deep bronze...

In the meantime, here's a few pics of today's efforts. Sanded and painted the dash panel - had to use the oven to dry it as my mate who owns a spray shop went away for the weekend - very inconvenient.:D

Cleaned all the old paint off the bezels of the gauges, and decided not to paint them and leave them again. This will match the other gauges I'm buying as they have a very similar white on black face to the factory gauges, but have a polished bezel - I couldn't get them with a black bezel. Put all the wiring on the back of the panel and did a test fit - it all works well. All up I have 32 wires to put plugs and sockets on tomorrow and fit 6 relays and a new fuse panel. This will allow me to easily pull the dash if needed in about 10 minutes, rather than an hour or so.

Back together...
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/3316B17A-589E-4157-A5DD-4D52DD0EB997-5821-00000A30E42F75CE_zpsa911c3fd.jpg

Back view of wiring - not very neat, but I was working with the existing stuff. It is tucked up out the way more than the factory loom so less is visible when fitted.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/78DDDEFF-8182-458E-8E28-71400BB35ED8-5821-00000A30EF94E83A_zpsc6d6c5a1.jpg

Trial fit to make sure where I have the loom coming out works - it does.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/A4B2FE09-6C4C-45A5-AB7C-7BCFD2073FF8-5821-00000A30F5AC508E_zps5797c1eb.jpg

[101RRS]

I would look at upgrading the instrument light bulbs - even when completely dark you can barely see the instruments and they are much duller than any after market instruments.

Also replace the instrument light on/off switch with a variable resistor so you can have variable light instrumentation.

Garry

[Homestar]

Good idea. I have made some beauty's up in the past by soldering in an LED and dropping resistor into the standard bulb holder. Works like a treat for those globes you can't buy as LRD's already.

Not fussed about making them dimmable, on or off is fine. I don't want to drill any more holes in the dash.

Ohh - the 101st post in this thread...:D:D:D

[101RRS]

Not fussed about making them dimmable, on or off is fine. I don't want to drill any more holes in the dash.

No new holes needed - just replace the on/off switch with a variable switch/resistor.

What are you going to use the IR switch for?? I do not use mine (aussie 101s did not have IR lights or special convoy lights) but was thinking about using it to meet the legal requirement for switchable spotties.

On the convoy light aspect - you should have a light up behind the rear cross member (drivers side) that shines a light onto a white painted diff when the 6 position switch is in the right position. Also be aware - when switching the lights off at night it easy to either not go back to the 12 o'clock position or go too far and you think the lights are off and they are not - or you put the headlights on but not the the 9 0'clock position and tail lights are not on. For IR lights, the 101 had heavy duty IR filters that clipped onto the headlights and you switched the 6 position switch to the position where only the headlights are on - in a war zone this would have stood out like dog's what nots to baddies with IR goggles on.

I have never seen any pics of a 101 - Brit or otherwise that had IR lights that were actually operated by the shielded IR switch.

Garry

[stuee]

No new holes needed - just replace the on/off switch with a variable switch/resistor.


Any suggestions for a reasonably priced dimmer switch or rheostat? I found what looks like a good cole hersee unit but its around $60. Otherwise any three position switch (i.e off/on/on) would be able to do it with a few resistors added in.

I've never had any of the infra red switch gear, or convoy lights. Using the space on my dash for the spot light switch.

[101RRS]

Jaycar will have suitable variable resistors.

[stuee]

They've got variable resistors, I just haven't found any that look like they will fit the dash nicely. Will flick through the catalog again tonight.

Edit* To clarify I've found potentiometers that can handle the power (15W) but they have no nob on them and can't find one in the catalogue that fits. Most of the others only seem to be rated at 0.5W. Will post up the part if I find it.

[Homestar]

Try RS Components as well, they have a very large selection.

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c/passive-components/variable-resistors/

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/c/passive-components/variable-resistors/potentiometer-knobs/'sort-by=default&sort-order=default&applied-dimensions=4294880317&lastAttributeSelectedBlock=4294960632

[Homestar]

Not much to report today. Did 7 hours straight on the wiring. Should have it all finished tomorrow by lunch all going well. Just have to graft the relay and fuse loom I've made into the vehicle and finish wiring in the new body loom plug.

Should work out well and make the dash easy to get out.

I'll post pics once it's all done.

[Homestar]

Well, nearly all done. Just have to finish some work in the battery box, and test everything before putting the dash back in for good. There was a lot more dodgey wiring than I first thought and this ate up much more time than I wanted. There were wires run all over the place that I have got rid of, re run or taken back to standard.

I went with Garry's idea of mounting the fuse box and relays up under the dash of the passenger well - thanks mate:) - there is heaps of room there and I'm not sure why LR didn't utilise this space in the first place for the fuses. I now have 8 fuses and 6 relays. I also have an additional small fuse panel in the battery box for all the accessories - the UHF, terra phone headsets and interior lighting.

Still have to put some corrugated conduit on most of the looms, but this is what I have now.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61607&d=1370844870

[bee utey]

I fervently hope that picture is upside down and the relays are inserted from the tops of their sockets... I've seen too many rusted out relays fitted the wrong way up.

[Sitec]

Nah, that's the right way up, and very neat I might add! It's pretty water tight in there, one of the few places a GS does not get wet! :) Good work there! Well done!

[bee utey]

Nah, that's the right way up, and very neat I might add! It's pretty water tight in there, one of the few places a GS does not get wet! :) Good work there! Well done!
Condensation can get in anywhere. There's no way I'd ever mount relays that way. Why make a good job less than perfect?

[101RRS]

They are mounted on their side - the panel to the right of the pick is actually horizontal

I have relays for the ignition, horn and lights mounted in the tunnel just behind the grill where they are exposed to the elements and have not had any issues but they are waterproof.

Garry

[Homestar]

Well, what a fuss. Thanks for all the kind words and concern. Ok, to put any confusion to bed, the relays are mounted upside down... Why? The wiring worked out easier that way and the relays are easier to get to - they are the only reasons. The 101 lives under a carport, and won't ever go for a swim. Yes, I thought about condensation, and it is a minor concern. All relays are the same, and cost a few bucks each. I'll always have spares or two with me, and be able to swap one around if I get stranded.

By the way, I have upside down relays in other vehicles, not perfect, I know, but I've never, EVER had to replace a relay in my whole life, some of which have lived upside down for 20 years without issue. Even if I have to replace them it's no big deal, they are very easy to get to.

Bottom line is that I now have ALL circuits protected by fuses, and a maximum current draw of just over 3 amps behind the dash, down from 12 amps. There is no high current switching done by anything other than those relays. I do this for a living, and I know what I have done and potential risks. I wouldn't normally do this, and I have never done this for a paying customer.

This vehicle will be with me for life and is willed to my son, so I'm the only one that has to worry about the potential consequences for the time being anyway. :)

Thanks for all your concern, but the relays will live for quite a while like this, they don't care about gravity and I'm happy I'll get a few years out if them. It is still a far superior install than LR or Lucas could ever have done :)

Cheers - Gav

Edit - oh, I forgot to mention that the only electrical fault I have had with this is the factory fitted auxiliary relay - mounted the right way up, but still corroded...

[stuee]

Looking good Gav. Any more pics of behind the dash and how you've used plugs to make it removable?

[Homestar]

Looking good Gav. Any more pics of behind the dash and how you've used plugs to make it removable?

I'll post a few pics on the weekend when I put the mechanical gauges back in, and put it back together for good. Basically the loom is now solidly attached to the back of the dash, and the loom now comes out in a different position. All the plugs down near the old fuse box are gone, and I have used some larger plugs and sockets (20amp jobbies) for the higher current applications, and a 24 pin multiconnector off a D1 for all the low current stuff. Everything seems to still work OK, so that was a bonus.:D

In the end, I left the flasher unit where it was, as there is just one plug and loom that runs to it now and that can be undone and threaded back easily if required.

Cheers - Gav

[101RRS]

I will send my 101 down to you to rewire for me :) while everything works and is reliable - it is full of secondary runs and and relays here and there and 24v to 12v cross overs. As well all these runs use red wire for positive and black for negative with no other colour coding so makes tracking issues difficult - but I have been over everything that makes it run on a day to day basis so am familiar with all the jury rigs. The original military wiring for mil gear is a bit of a mystery though.

On the relay side of things, because I have a number mounted in the tunnel where they are exposed to the weather I chose relays that are waterproof - the plastic casing is resin sealed around the connectors and casing so no water can get in. the connectors can still corrode but I have sprayed them with lanolin so they remain OK - if I had used the older style relays where the contacts just stick out of the plastic and the case is just crimped on I would have been more worried.

If your coil etc is still on the inside of the front passenger wheel arch I would consider getting it moved somewhere - you will find in deep water - water come in from the tunnel along the top of the chassis rail causing possible issues electrical. Likewise water hits the front axle and is thrown up directly into the ignition system or into the fan and then the ignition system causing issues. Since I went to electronic ignition I have no water issues but I will be moving my amplifier and coil away from the inner guard to somewhere drier.

Garry

[Homestar]

It does have an electronic dizzy on it now, with the coil mounted in the original location. I hadn't thought about moving the coil, but it seems like a good idea. The amp module is built into the dizzy so not much I can do there. Sounds like yours has more work arounds in the wiring than mine did, but I ripped them all out. One of the ones that made me realise someone didn't know what they were doing was a new power supply had been run to the fan heater switch, and the factory wire had been removed. The only fault on the factory wiring was the inline fuse was blown...

The coil wiring also bypassed the factory wiring for some reason and there were other add ons.

The wiring for all the accessories was also very poorly done - I still have torpedo all that, but they will all run to a separate fuse blck mounted in the battery box.

Everything did work before so I could have left it, but crap wiring really gets on my nerves, so was the first thing to get done...

[101 Ron]

If the 101 was 24 volt and has been fitted with a 12 volt electronic ignition, some stuff would have been by passed to fit it.
Yes the 101 original suppressed dissy was 12 volt, it used 24 volt while cranking.
My experiences with the igniton system is similer to garrys ..........where the stardard coil is fitted will stop the vehicle.
I personally have not found another location for the coil.

[Homestar]

I'll be back at it this morning and I'll have a look regarding the coil. Mine is a 12 volt version from the factory - the extra wiring has been done to bypass faults they have been unable to locate I think.

[101 Ron]

I have found hitting a small causeway only a few inches deep at speed will soak the ignition and stop the vehicle for a dry out exercise.
I have also found the vehicle will ford a creek to the top of the wheels if driven very slowly.( plugs get wet any deeper)
The rules of forming a bow wave when crossing a deep creek do not apply to a 101 as there is no bonnet or length in the front of the vehicle.
If you look the fan and coil are in line and if any water finds the engine fan, your in trouble.
The dist being at the front of the motor may get wet too.
A improvement for me has been moving the coil slightly forward to beside the radiator and out of alignment with the fan blades.
I seriously looked at moving the coil up to near the air filter some where, but couldn't find a simple enough spot for it.
A rubber boot around the dist is enough to stop most problems with it.
Another bit of help in water proofing the 101 is the use of a Bosch transformer coil as they are smaller and easier to relocate and slightly more water resistant.(due to the low and high tension terminals being further apart.)
I have a new 24 volt suppressed/water proof distributor to fit, but want to convert it to electronic with much drama before I do so.
The use of the suppressed/water proof coil and leads will work only if the leads and coil are new and the threads sealed with silicone grease.
These leads also give very poor spark at high RPM due to the shielding.
My idea is make the 24v dist work with civie leads which are sealed water tight with use of the military type lead connector fittings..........one day may be.
The best thing is just to go though any water very slowly .
I found fitting of relays in the very front of a 101 or inside the fan tunnel is another no/no because of the draught pulling in rain water etc.

[Sitec]

Prob irrelevant, but reading this thread made me think of the past and my training... Years ago at college, one of the lecturers who was a hands on guy likened basic electrical systems to a hydraulic system.... The battery being the tank, the alternator being the pump, and each ram/wheel motor etc being globes, relays etc... For those of us who struggled at the age of 17 to find faults this helped no end. 'Just because you can't see the leak or blockage does not mean you can't find it' was what he used to say!!! Now, using Electronic Service Tools on tractors daily, that seems irrelevant some times but it isn't.. The kiss theory is still the best way, and I'm no longer phased when trying to find those annoying little faults! Gav, having seen your work, you obviously know your way around electrics and are prob chuckling at this but for those who struggle to find those faults... KISS.. Keep It Simple Stupid, start at the 'tank' and follow that red 'hose' and find that fault!! Patience does work, and finding your first fault and rectifying it is great! (Bit different with 240v tho... Those 'high pressure' leaks just like hydraulics bloody hurt! :D)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/06/910.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/P8080331.jpg.html)
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p299/101Ron/100_0851.mp4

[101 Ron]

Another little trick if you are not running seal beam lights is to drill a small pin hole in the bottom of the reflector as to let the water out after a creek crossing.............if you don't the remaining water and mud in it will wear away the reflective surface on the bottom of the reflector.
The head lights are a little bit of a low point electrically.

[Homestar]

Well, I had some fun today. While finishing all the bits and pieces up, and going through everything to check functionality, I found an anomaly which made me laugh harder than I have done for ages.

Last weekend when I first stuck the dash in and powered it up for the first time, I checked a few basic things - fuel pump, which is now NOT wired through the oil pressure switch, ignition, indicators, etc to see if I had all the major items right. No dramas there, even the hazard lights work now, which they weren't before.

Today I went through and checked the rest - one of the first things I noticed was the wipers and washers weren't working. Put that aside and checked everything else. All good until I flicked the Infrared switch and - you guessed it - the wipers came on...:D

An easy fix as I had crossed a couple of wires on one of the connectors, but it was a bit of 'Doh!' Moment. My son came outside to see what I was laughing at - I showed him and he almost wet himself and went back inside...

Apart from that, the fuel gauge doesn't work, but it was getting too dark to see what I had (or hadn't) done there, so I'll sort that out later.

One other thing I should mention - don't forget to plug the hole in the oil cooler where the temp sender lives BEFORE cranking the engine to check the oil pressure lamp operation...:D:angel:

Guess who's got a nice oil stain on the driveway now...:D. Luckily I spotted it almost immediately as I was looking down at the engine when I cranked it and saw a puddle begins to appear in front of the radiator.

I'll post pics in the next couple of days when I have it fully tidied up.

Cheers - Gav.

[Homestar]

Well, as it was cold and wet tonight, I bought some stuff inside to work on it - pity the whole 101 won't fit inside...:D:angel:

Anyway, as part of the wiring job, I am rewiring all the aftermarket accessories, and installing some lighting as well. I have run some wires though the frame for the lights, and through the roll bar for the UHF, Terraphone and lighting. Previously all the wiring was cable tied to the outside of these and looked very dodgy.

The UHF was mounted in the drivers footwell and had the speaker output run up to the Terraphone so you could hear what was going on through the headphones but had to use the UHF mic to transmit. I have now wired the mics on the Terraphone through the UHF and wired in a remote transmit wire which I shall run through to a switch that is easy to reach - probably on a short lead near the steering wheel.

Here's a pic just before I screwed it all back together.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=61870&d=1371469280

[Homestar]

Well, just about done.:). At least with the required wiring. Still have some accessories to install and some door switches for an interior light. Gave the inside a good detailing before coming inside - with the pressure washer...:D. I had it out giving the engine and gearbox a good clean.

Also changed the oil and coolant while I was at it - they both looked fine, but the oil has been in it nearly a year and the coolant was an unknown.

Will do the gearbox oil when I install the overdrive, and that will just leave me to do the diffs and swivels.

Might take it or its first drive in weeks tomorrow.:). Just have to secure a few wires in the morning.

[Mick_Marsh]

Hey Gav. Have you got one of these for it? An inspection lamp.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[The ho har's]

Hey Gav. Have you got one of these for it? An inspection lamp.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

A bit flash for a 101 isn't it;)

you coming to Glenreagh this October? seems like 101 heaven:p

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

Hey Gav. Have you got one of these for it? An inspection lamp.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=62087&stc=1&d=1371894173
http://http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=62087&stc=1&d=1371894173

No, I like the look of that though. Do they come up for sale very often?

[Mick_Marsh]

No, I like the look of that though. Do they come up for sale very often?
You got one now. I might drop around tomorrow arvo.

[Homestar]

I'll be here all day.:)

[Homestar]

Well, came across a small fault today with the oil pressure switch and I need a question answered. What is the thread on these - is it just a standard 1/8 gas thread like most oil pressure switches and senders? I only need a ground switched unit to go back in as the fuel pump no longer runs through it. Also, what pressure do the factory switches operate at? There are a few different settings available on the aftermarket ones so any ideas?

One other fault that the wiring has always had is the lack of a voltage stabiliser for the fuel gauge. This would explain why it runs out of fuel while still reading between 1/4 and 1/2 a tank, and why you have to drive 200KM before it moves off full. Now I know I can just go and buy another, but I've seen a post in a thread here about someone making an electronic one to go in a factory case, but be stuffed if I can find it anywhere and I only saw it a few days ago...!

Also, a big thanks to Mick who popped over today with that inspection lamp - it is a very cool bit of kit that is right at home in the 101. I'll be getting some good use out of it.:)

Cheers - Gav.

[MacMan]

Is it the same thread as a standard V8 unit?

[Homestar]

I think so, but I haven't pulled it out to check. Assuming it is - is the standard V8 thread 1/8 gas?

[MacMan]

I THINK it's 1/2" UNF, so conveniently interchangeable with... nothing except another Rover one. :D

[Homestar]

Can you get a 1/2" UNF to 1/8" gas adaptor...

[stuee]

Gav for the electronic voltage stabilzer see my thread. I'll post an update when I get home and not on my phone.

[Homestar]

Gav for the electronic voltage stabilzer see my thread. I'll post an update when I get home and not on my phone.

Found it!:). Thanks heaps - I knew I had seen it recently, it was right under my nose.:D

[MacMan]

I know you're not one to think very highly of the local services around home, but perhaps go have a chat to Barry at the local hydraulics joint. They have a large selection of brass pressure fittings.

In terms of operating pressure, I believe they really are a last resort switch that only closes at something under 7psi. Replacement Rover ones are not too hard to come by, nor are they expensive.

[MacMan]

Just saw this (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range-rover/176535-timing-cover-gasket-replacement.html#post1936135).

[stuee]

Found it!:). Thanks heaps - I knew I had seen it recently, it was right under my nose.:D

I'm just waiting for some pics to upload then Ill put some stuff up in my thread but if you are chasing the 10V regulators I lucked out with both Altronics and Jaycar (could then just pick it up after work). RS however offered free next day delivery for the regulators when ordering online, the only catch was I had to buy a packet of 5 which came to a pricey $2.55 :o I'd offer to post you one of my spares but it would be cheaper and faster for you to get it from RS.

Just make sure you leave a delivery instruction to leave the package at your door otherwise Toll will leave a "we missed you" card and you'll need to waste time picking them up from there depo or organizing re-delivery.

RS part number 6616702
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/linear-voltage-regulators/6616702/'searchTerm=6616702&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6 265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C267 06D3D5E5C647B367D247C5E5C647B377D247C5E5C647B31307 D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5 F4E554D424552267573743D363631363730322677633D4E4F4 E4526

edit* for the Oil pressure sender I purchased a VDO sender/switch which was 1/8npt then I just got an adapter piece from my local fittings store. Just had the original pressure switch and vdo unit handed it to them and asked them to make it work. Will be going back to them when it comes time to do my brake lines and fittings.

[Homestar]

Look what turned up today...:)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=62316&d=1372413127

I was going to buy some Smiths Gauges as they look closer to original, but the price of them made that impractical - nearly 3 times the price - Also, I couldn't find a 52mm tacho that Smiths does, so I went with some VDO stuff which I use all the time at work and is accurate, reliable and well priced.

Mine didn't have any gauges in the centre dash from new, but I need more info about the engine... I don't trust the dodgy oil pressure switch, and although the factory temp gauge may be accurate, I though having a second one there to check it against would be a good idea. A voltmeter is a much more useful proposition than an ammeter and a tacho to round out the group.

Not sure if I'll get time to fit them this weekend, but I'll take a pic once done.

Cheers - Gav

[Sitec]

Mmmmmm, like those! Might have to come see you when I do the diesel conversion (which is all go thanks to our Agent in Scotland). Thinking of a more user and wife friendly dash like the one pictured... She drove the old one but struggled, so this has to be easier! She threw the 130 around happily!!

[Homestar]

I like that. Lots more wiring than I would want to do - even with the amount I have already done:D.

[stuee]

I take it you'll put the tacho in a holder just above the dash and the other three in the existing holes? I've been thinking about a tacho for mine but haven't found a spot I like to put it in.

[Homestar]

Haven't figured out where the tacho is going yet...:D. But I was thinking along those lines. I just know I wanted a tacho so I ordered it. When I stick it in I'll take some pics.:)

I'm not 100% happy with the tacho - I ordered a 0 - 6000 rpm unit like this...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=62327&d=1372457222

But they sent me the 0 - 8000 rpm unit with a note saying it was cheaper... I think they didn't have the other one in stock. The biggest thing that bugs me with it is that the writing is a slightly different colour white. It probably won't matter as it will be mounted on its own, but I'll still know.

I have emailed them to see what went on and if they can supply the correct unit.

[Homestar]

So, I have a question for the AULRO Brains Trust - can canvas be stretched at all if it has shrunk a bit? Actually, I'm not 100% sure if it has shrunk as there seems to be a bit more than I need at the other end, but I can't get it where I want it...:mad:

Let me explain - my tilt sits out a bit too far behind the doors where it is supposed to fit in that track - it fits fine at the top, but at the bottom it sits out of the track leaving a small gap. I'm thinking half the problem is the stupid bungy cords used to secure it. They have a tendency to pull the edges in and just don't work right. I will be replacing all the bungies with cord soon, but does anyone have any ideas about how I can straighten the tilt out so it fits properly?

Cheers - Gav

[Mick_Marsh]

So, I have a question for the AULRO Brains Trust - can canvas be stretched at all if it has shrunk a bit? Actually, I'm not 100% sure if it has shrunk as there seems to be a bit more than I need at the other end, but I can't get it where I want it...:mad:

Let me explain - my tilt sits out a bit too far behind the doors where it is supposed to fit in that track - it fits fine at the top, but at the bottom it sits out of the track leaving a small gap. I'm thinking half the problem is the stupid bungy cords used to secure it. They have a tendency to pull the edges in and just don't work right. I will be replacing all the bungies with cord soon, but does anyone have any ideas about how I can straighten the tilt out so it fits properly?

Cheers - Gav
Mine has the opposite problem. Want to swap them round one day? Just for something to do. An excuse to take them out.

[Homestar]

Mine has the opposite problem. Want to swap them round one day? Just for something to do. An excuse to take them out.

Yeah, that sounds like a plan - I want to have a closer look at yours anyway.:). Need to have a peak at the overdrive install as well as how your tilt is attached with the ropes.

If it ain't raining next weekend I'll come or a drive.:)

[101RRS]

Sounds all pretty normal for an older tilt - On my 101 on the drivers side the canvas does sit in its slot behind the driver door but not on the passenger side but then I do not sit over that side ;).

All I can suggest is keep the tilt on the vehicle and keep all the ropes pulled tight. In summer I have the sides of my tilt rolled up and when autumn comes along and I roll them down everything is a bit short or tight but with all the ropes tight all starts to come back to its usual tight state after a week or so.

Cheers

Garry

[Homestar]

Thanks Garry - I think you may have confirmed my theory that the bungies don't put enough tension on the canvas. Time to get some ropes and pull it all nice and tight.

The tilt is only a few years old but has always had the bungies on it rather than rope. Hopefully it hasn't gone too far that I can't bring it back.:)

Cheers - Gav

[The ho har's]

So, I have a question for the AULRO Brains Trust - can canvas be stretched at all if it has shrunk a bit? Actually, I'm not 100% sure if it has shrunk as there seems to be a bit more than I need at the other end, but I can't get it where I want it...:mad:

Let me explain - my tilt sits out a bit too far behind the doors where it is supposed to fit in that track - it fits fine at the top, but at the bottom it sits out of the track leaving a small gap. I'm thinking half the problem is the stupid bungy cords used to secure it. They have a tendency to pull the edges in and just don't work right. I will be replacing all the bungies with cord soon, but does anyone have any ideas about how I can straighten the tilt out so it fits properly?

Cheers - Gav

welcome to the world of canvas:)

we have gaffer tape to stop the breeze coming through;) I have the same in my series III:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[101 Ron]

My Tilt/hood is a UK made item in good condition and it fits well.
I use shock cord thoughout my hood .
I replaced the original cheap rope.
The reason to do that was to make it easy to pop the shock cord off the body work and drop the sides /or lift up the sides of the hood to reach the fridge.
It the same for the tail gate, pop off the shock cord and drop the tailgate.
My hood is tight and doesn't flap around much.
I did do some little mods.
I have a extra brass eye and pin on the LHS near the door to help hold the canvas in place into the slot behind the door to stop draughts.
I have a small die cast hook on one of the rear hood bows to work in with the shock cord to help pull the whole thing tight.
I like shock cord as it is easy to undo/fit and it works in with the fact that canvass shrinks when wet and expands when dry.
Rope/straps and buckels will come loose after the canvass has been wet.

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1642.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCF0717.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1643.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCF0714.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1644.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCF0713.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1640.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCF0711.jpg.html)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1641.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/DSCF0710.jpg.html)

[Homestar]

As I mentioned in post 146 I had a different tacho sent to me from what I had ordered. I sent an email over the weekend, and bang on 9am this morning I received a phone call from them explaining why they had made the substitution.

It all came down to how the gauges look at night... The vision series that is the oil, temp and voltmeter are all lit through the numbers on the dial, and the needle is also lit for the back making everything nice and easy to read at night. The 0 - 6000 rpm gauge I ordered - although it looks the same - is from a different series of gauges and is lit differently - from the sides around the dial - not through the numbers, so it looks very different at night and is harder to read and see the dial.

Once I explained I would prefer the 0 - 6000 as the engine won't see use above this and it what it looked like at night wasn't a priority for me, he agreed straight away to swap it for the one I wanted, no ifs, no buts....

GREAT customer service, and very easy to deal with. For those that are interested the business concerned is Namiiss Gauge and Control. Their online store is - Gauges, Instruments and Control Sales & Service - The Gauge Shop - NAMIISS (http://www.gauge-shop.com.au/). Very fast service, and great after sales support, so if you're in the market for some gauges, give Brett a call on 02 4961 1988.

Good service is what I look for in a business and it is sometimes hard to come by, so it is great to see there are people out there that live by the old values of service. And it's an Australian business - can't do better than that.

Cheers - Gav.:)

[Sitec]

Just put the gaugeshop on my home page. Some good stuff there!! Cheers!

[Homestar]

More toys turned up today...:)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=62476&d=1372755308

The overdrive appears to be in very good condition, and everything is there as far as I can tell. Feels very smooth disengaged and engaged. The front needle bearing, race and the bit that goes in the gearbox are in great condition. No fretting, pitting or wear on any surface.:)

The cable I ordered is complete and on its way - thanks to 101 Ron for the drawing and the contact info for Conwire - they were easy to deal with and had the cable ready before I knew it.

So, all going well, I should have an overdrive fitted this weekend...:)

Mick, I'm definitely coming over on Saturday to look how it should all sit once done.

Cheers - Gav

[Homestar]

Ok, I forgot to ask - does anyone know where I can get a full set of new control lever knobs from? The existing winch and hi/low are very rough, and I need the yellow overdrive knob as well.

The 101 club show these, but none are available at the moment, and I don't want to wait that long if I can help it.

Cheers - Gav

[101RRS]

OI need the yellow overdrive knob as well.

The 101 club show these, but none are available at the moment, and I don't want to wait that long if I can help it.



Ordered and paid for mine back in 2009 and still waiting for it - tell them to give you mine that way you will not have to wait another 4 years for it.

Garry

[101 Ron]

You need to find a old series landrover.
I was lucky enough to have a bloke around the corner from me who had a yard full of junked series landrovers.
Try AJ........he will find one.
The yellow knob is from the Four wheel drive plunger and red knob on a series rover is high low just like the 101.

[101RRS]

You need to find a old series landrover.
I was lucky enough to have a bloke around the corner from me who had a yard full of junked series landrovers.
Try AJ........he will find one.
The yellow knob is from the Four wheel drive plunger and red knob on a series rover is high low just like the 101.

The series knob thread/size are different to the 101 knob size threads - well certainly the knobs from my series 1s will not fit the 101 levers.

Garry

[101 Ron]

I cannot remember if I retapped /helicoiled the threads or what when I did mine ?????

[Homestar]

Found this set for a series which does 2 out of 3, just got to work out how to get a nice new green one.

LAND ROVER SERIES 2A/3 - Gear Lever Knob Set (DLS208) | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-SERIES-2A-3-Gear-Lever-Knob-Set-DLS208-/370621982301?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item564acaa65d)

I can have these engraved at a local label maker we use at work. Are these the same thread or would I need to drill and tap them???

[chazza]

Ok, The existing winch and hi/low are very rough,
Cheers - Gav

If you give them a good going over with wet-and-dry and then a coat of enamel paint they come up rather well,

Cheers Charlie

[Sitec]

Suddenly remembered I have a series gearbox outside! Cold out there too!! Anyway, here's a pic of the hi/low and 4x4 knobs off a Series 2/3 box. The red hi/low knob has a larger thread cut into the knob itself with approx 1/2" thread. The yellow 4x4 knob is the same size overall but has a brass insert with a much smaller thread which accepts the 1/4 unf thread (7/16 spanner size). From memory these fit the 101's levers. Sadly mine is not here yet so I can't confirm that! :(

[101 Ron]

The blue knob is the one you need..........its the trailer drive :D:D:D:D

[grey_ghost]

Hi Gav,

I replaced the Red/Yellow/Black knobs on "The Grey Ghost" - so I have a spare set of the originals (Bakerlite?)...

I don't know about the threads or if they will fit the 101. But if you want you could have them to:

a) Test fit before you purchase new ones
b) As mentioned below - wet & dry and then re-paint them.

They are yours if you want..

Tom.

[Homestar]

Cable turned up today.:). It is now all systems go on getting it fitted this weekend. I have read thought the instructions that Garry posted and it all seems trait hot forward... BUT, there is a comment on there about not pushing the shaft in the gearbox back. Is there a way to avoid this? I have heard mention of putting it in third before I start, does this sound right? If I do stuff things up and push the shaft back, how bad is this???

Just want to cover this off before I start.

Cheers - Gav.

[DasLandRoverMan]

Yeah stick it in 3rd.

Not a major problem if it drops out, simply a question of holding the shaft and pulling/rotating until it drops back in.

[Homestar]

Ok, got one more question about the gearbox before I stick the overdrive on it. What sort of oil should be in the box and TC and is the box and TC connected as far as oil supply goes?

Is it 20W-50 engine oil I'm after or gear oil?

I know my way around my Rangie LT77 & LT230 but I have never played with an LT95 before.

Cheers - Gav.

[Mick_Marsh]

Engine oil.

[101RRS]

The LT95 gearbox and TC are not connected however the oil seal between them can fail and there can be a one way tfr of oil. If this does happen there is a mod of an external pipe that joins the two so that the levels equalise. I don't think you will have this issue with yours.

The gearbox and tfr case use engine oil - do not use EP90 is wrecks the bronze bits inside the box.

The O/D shares oil with the tfr case but it does have its own sump as well. Oil from the tfr case goes in via a scoop and hole and excess also comes out there also. So In theory you can remove the tfr case filler plug (half way up the case) and fill both the o/d and tfr case through the o/d filler until oil comes out the tfr case filler hole and both will be filled.

However I have found this is not always the case. So I fill the tfr case first and leave the tfr case filler plug out. I then fill the O/d and when oil comes out the tfr filler both are definitely filled. The o/ds leak a lot as well.

Oh - fill the tfr case through the plug at the absolute top of the tfr case where you can just pour the oil in as the tfr filler plug (which is also the level) is a pain to fill through.

Cheers

Garry

[Sitec]

Oooh... Now I'm really glad I didn't drive mine back... It's got gear oil in the transfer case. Not only that I used to run 90 in the one in the UK.. That explains a lot!! Thanks again guys!!

[101RRS]

Some gear oils are Ok but not EP90. Just need to research it further but is simpler and easier to put the same oil in the engine, gearbox and tfr case and whats more engine oil works great. Here in Canberra over 40 in summer and -5 in winter and all works fine. It is cheap as well.

Garry

[Homestar]

Having had to run around all morning, I didn't get a start until well after lunch. Had to move a car to put the 101 on the concrete - and the car wouldn't crank - flat battery.:mad: So, couldn't start on any of the oily stuff, I put the car battery on charge and set about making the lever for the cabin. I removed the winch handle and basically made a lever that mirrored that, but longer - the same length as the hi/low lever so it is easier to reach and I have more leverage on it. Fiddled about with some scrap steel I had lying around and in a couple of hours have come up with something that works.

I have trial fitted it and it is in just the right location.:). Removed it to paint it and it will be ready to go on with in the morning. Not sure if the photos show it well enough, but there was quite a bit of dicking about getting the offset in the lower part right so it is right above the hole where the cable mounts.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/B567AC61-28C9-456F-9528-C1B6880315D7-2034-000003A8CAEDD4DD_zps00d7f1f6.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/16C15911-19E8-4D70-9826-33C719D9EA79-2034-000003A8D300495E_zpse231422a.jpg

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/1B782319-BEAD-43AB-8F82-7048FDA3E29C-2034-000003A8D87916D1_zps8804d517.jpg

Oily bit tomorrow...:)

Cheers - Gav

[Homestar]

Also figured out what to do about the lever knobs as well.:). Stay tuned - I'm not giving this away at the moment as I want to see what they look like. Only $30 delivered for the 3 lever knobs and the gear knob so not the end of the world if I don't like them.

After asking on the 101 Club forum how long it would take to get the repro items they have back in stock, I figured from the replies that I better not hold my breath....

Will see how these new ones look.:)

Edit - just looking at a photo of the overdrive know the 101 Club do, and this suggests that the way Garry has his is correct - levers all in a row is disengaged, pushing it forward engages it. I'll see how I go, but to me the more natural way would be to have it like Rons so you pull it back to engage it.

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/BBE277D6-EF31-453C-9BD7-3D5D1BDC4D8F-2034-000003BAC66199E7_zps7289e534.jpg

Horses for courses I guess.

[Homestar]

Does anyone know where I can get a couple of these?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I have a couple on my winch cable that I will be stealing to get the overdrive sorted as the new cable doesn't have these.

I'm not installing the winch control just yet, so no rush, but I'd one one knows a supplier I can order a couple off, that would be great.

Cheers - Gav

[101RRS]

Edit - just looking at a photo of the overdrive know the 101 Club do, and this suggests that the way Garry has his is correct - levers all in a row is disengaged, pushing it forward engages it. I'll see how I go, but to me the more natural way would be to have it like Rons so you pull it back to engage it.

That is nonsense :p. Everyone knows you push forward to get into O/D - how many 5 speed gearboxes to you pull the lever back to go into 5th gear?? ;) Virtually none - you push forward.


Does anyone know where I can get a couple of these?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

I have a couple on my winch cable that I will be stealing to get the overdrive sorted as the new cable doesn't have these.

I'm not installing the winch control just yet, so no rush, but I'd one one knows a supplier I can order a couple off, that would be great.

Cheers - Gav

Many Trailer Places sell them for use on the manual brake system on the end of cables.

Here is one I found on ebay - UK though.

4 X Clevis Pins M8 Standard Extended FOR Trailer Horsebox Brakes 2 OF Each | eBay (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/4-x-Clevis-Pins-M8-Standard-Extended-for-Trailer-Horsebox-brakes-2-of-each-/200934350667?pt=UK_Trailers_Transporters_Parts&hash=item2ec89edf4b)

Garry

[Homestar]

That is nonsense :p. Everyone knows you push forward to get into O/D - how many 5 speed gearboxes to you pull the lever back to go into 5th gear?? ;) Virtually none - you push forward.


I see your point, but maybe I'm thinking like that as I used to drive a ****ty old Ford Trader a lot and the overdrive in that was down to engage.

I'm at the point right now trying to decide which way to go....:D

I'm thinking your way though Garry, it would look a bit neater having all the levers in a row.:)

[101 Ron]

Does anyone know where I can get a couple of these?

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j443/Bacicat2000/General%20Stuff/AAA047AD-B00D-432D-BFFE-F9843A270200-2034-0000041F6A354386_zps9af36537.jpg

I have a couple on my winch cable that I will be stealing to get the overdrive sorted as the new cable doesn't have these.

I'm not installing the winch control just yet, so no rush, but I'd one one knows a supplier I can order a couple off, that would be great.

Cheers - Gav

Con wire supplies the cable end forks too...........you just have to ask them to be supplied

[Homestar]

Con wire supplies the cable end forks too...........you just have to ask them to be supplied

Oh well, I asked Conwire to supply exactly what they had supplied you, so I didn't even think they wouldn't come with the cable, until thy didn't. Not a big issue, I have time to sort that out before I fit the winch.

[Homestar]

All installed, fairly straight forward. I ended up operating the linkage from the bottom so the levers are all back in their normal positions, but I'm not very happy with the operation - it is very stiff due to the amount of room you have to lever off on that side.

How is everyone else's? I'm thinking I might start from scratch rather than use the linkages that came with them. I have seen some pics on the 101 Club forum where they make up a whole lever that acts directly on the overdrive actuating rod. It looks like it gives better mechanical advantage and operates in the correct (levers back) manner. I would imagine the throw of the lever to be slightly longer though, but I'm not happy leaving it as it is.

Cheers - Gav

[101RRS]

I'm thinking your way though Garry, it would look a bit neater having all the levers in a row.:)

You need to set up the linkages at the rear - I have my gearbox cover insulated so the linkage had to hang down to get clearance - hence push forward on the lever.

Garry

[101 Ron]

My OD goes into OD quickly and easily.
Going from OD to direct drive is a slow notchy affair with almost a stop in the neutral going though.
If I remember correctly garrycols was very much the same, but much shorter handle stroke due to him using a winch lever to operate it.
Using the OD is a bit stiff at first.....see how it settles down.

It also takes a little while to get use to the way the OD goes into OD quickly, but is much slower to get out.
The detent spring on the OD shift rod can be adjusted for tension.......lock nut and allen head grub screw???????
How big were the radius of the curves in the OD cable ????????

[Homestar]

Cable radius is fine, no tight turns and it operates very smoothly when not attached to the OD. When I got the OD, it had a big handle on it that goes through the floor of whatever it came out of. With that handle attached, it is smooth and easy to use, so it is just the lack of mechanical advantage to overcome the detent - I will see if I can slack that off a bit and see how I go.

[101 Ron]

Another way to do it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1329.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/PICT4918Small_zps9de8f938.jpg.html)

[101 Ron]

I used the handle linkage that came with the OD, but shorten slightly???? the vertical rod pointing up towards the floor above the OD.
When setting mine up I made a fan tunnel lever out of plywood and drilled multiple holes in it so on the final design I had perfect leverage and handle position etc.
I think I even drilled multi holes in the OD shift linkage for the clevis pin for the same reason.

My system does have a lot of leverage at the expense of handle/lever travel.
Garrycols set up worked just as well with the shorter handle/lever travel.

[Homestar]

Another way to do it.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/07/1329.jpg (http://s131.photobucket.com/user/101Ron/media/101%20Ron%202/PICT4918Small_zps9de8f938.jpg.html)

Yep, that is similar to another photo I have seen showing that arrangement, I will try to fiddle with what I have and see if I ca make that work before making something new up, but it gives me options.

[101RRS]

The action does loosen up with use but does remain notchy. I still have a interim lever (metal broom handle with a round Lada knob - much nicer feel in the hand) after the one I made broke so I have played around with its length. Needs to be long but still clear the dash.

Changing into O/D is not issue at all - smooth as slik. Changing out is more problematic - either a pregnant pause in O/D nautral or just double shuffle it with the clutch and a slow deliberate action.

Garry

[Homestar]

The replacement tacho turned up today - great service from Namiiss. Trial fitted everything and I'm very happy with how it looks. I've used some 15 degree spacers on the 3 gauges on the dash so I can see them better from the drivers seat and they work great. They also give the gauges a beefier look and matches how the tacho looks sitting inside its pod.

I'm thinking I need one more gauge on the dash where the UHF mic holder is to balance things up, but I don't really want to drill another hole there - I'm a bit torn on this - a clock would work well there I think...

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=62725&d=1373354966

[101RRS]

So how hard was it getting to the back of the aftermarket gauges to tighten up the mounting brackets and nuts :).

Hmm there, done that, not the greatest job in town.

[Homestar]

So how hard was it getting to the back of the aftermarket gauges to tighten up the mounting brackets and nuts :).

Hmm there, done that, not the greatest job in town.

Ha ha, I said TRIAL FIT...:D. I looked at that and decided to do that another day - they are just sitting there, and I'm not looking forward to it.:D

Can the heater box be taken out easily? That would simplify things but I think I already know the answer to that though...

[101RRS]

When I did mine I did not have the heater box in and when putting in the gauges in I did not even think about how I would change globes etc when everything was in. I have an after market heater box and again did not think ahead and hung it from the dash rather than brackets underneath.

Then the chickens came home to roost when I had a gauge failure and a globe failed :(. It took a couple of days to do - made up some special tools to get in there and lots of swearing, abusing the family, kicking the dog and getting very grumpy managed to achieve a result.

In hindsight - make then heater box easy to remove or make up a fitting to house the gauges so they are not actually in the current dash.

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

You'll get there Gav. Lots of dogs to kick.
Looks great.

[stuee]

Don't your VDO gauges have the plastic cups that screw in from the rear as opposed to fiddly little bolts and arms (like what holds the factory gauges in place)? I re-fitted mine the other day with the heat box in situ and was easy enough. I had enough slack on the cables to disconnect easily. I like the 15 degree brackets you have, sound like a good idea.

Edit* After numerous attempts to refit the heater box after cleaning it up the secret is to loosen the tabs that hold the matrix in place within the box too allow the matrix to move up which in turn lets it go in and out pretty easily. Using the flaps and vents on the side you can re-position the tabs when you go to refit the matrix after. I can post pics if that's not clear enough.

[Homestar]

Hadn't paid much attention to how the gauges mount, I was too excited to stick 'em in the dash to see what they looked like...:D

Too cold outside to check now...

EDIT - the gauges in the dash do have the big plastic nut thingy which may present problems of its own while using those angled spacers....

[Homestar]

Well, I think I have come to the same conclusion as some other members here about the 101 Club...

I posted in the '101 Club Discussion' forum under a thread called 'Club Spares'. To be found in that thread are pages of discussions about various club parts, orders, etc. I thought this would be a perfect place to ask how long it would be until the 101 Shop got the repro lever knobs back in stock, as they are unavailable to be ordered at the moment. Other members also followed saying they were interested in a set too - it looked like they could have sold 6 sets straight up. I bumped the thread yesterday as I hadn't got a reply, to which I find this response today....

"Darren does the ordering - he never comes on this forum
I'll pass a message on but I can't say when I'll get a reply as I'm sure you'll appreciate"

Um, maybe it is just me, but NO, I can't appreciate that at all... If the person responsible for ordering the parts doesn't look at the thread called 'Club Spares' then I'm gob smacked. The fact that this other member didn't know how long it would take to get a reply shows that things move slowly there - too slow for me.

I'm sure I'll just get the same old line if I complained about everyone just being a volunteer, but there are plenty there whining about the clubs financial situation, and I can see why it is so bad. I want to give them money for a product, and it seems beyond them to organise it in an effective manner. I don't expect a 4 day delivery like big commercial UK suppliers, but this looks like it could take months....

I have left a reply which will probably upset them - nothing nasty, but have made my point quite clearly.

So I now assume that if I need anything from them, I will have to order it months in advance, which I just can't do - my 101 is not a project and I like to drive it most weekends, so if it breaks down waiting months for parts to get me back on the road would be a killer.

They need to wake up to themselves....

Rant over.

[101RRS]

Nothing new there - I am sure Darren is a nice guy but as far as the 101 club is concerned his poop don't stink (mine doesn't but that is another story).

Yes they are volunteers but given their role in providing parts to the 101 world they need something/one with more available time - maybe a part-time paid retired person - this has been discussed but doesn't seem to have hgappend. I was recently a Committee member and found the workload a little onerous so I did not seek reappointment and handed the job more suited - maybe Darren and the 101 club needs to do the same.

I have not been part of the 101 club for some time now and through the forum I feel that is their loss as I didn't get a lot out of them but did provide a lot of information and experiences.

Garry

[stuee]

Like you I thought I would give them a chance, a few months still wont quite do it though, I was at three months before I told them no thanks. Had all the items in under two weeks from AJ, and that's after he had to order a number of out of stock items from suppliers.

I too was gob smacked that they had one thread complaining about finances but then don't want to improve the one area that could really make the club a bit of money. One of the suggestions was for people to place reasonable size orders instead of one or two minor things, they didn't seem to care that my order was over 700 quid. As has been hinted by others on the club forum, they seem to have no interest in serving international members. Also really suprised they dint just get an off the shelf online shop to do the parts store. Instead it looks like they've built one from scratch that took them 2 years to roll out.

Will be interesting to see what happens over the next few years, if the economy doesn't pick up over there (and an increasing number of 101's keep going over seas :D) I wonder if it will eventually sink.

[Homestar]

It would be a pity if the 101 Club folded, but they need to do something or risk just that.

Anyway, just come in from the cold outside. I have everything buttoned up in the 101 now, all covers back down and a nice new gator on the gear shifter. Just have to finish wiring in the gauges and fitting the CB and Terraphone and I'll be almost done for the time being.

Geez, what do I do next on it?:D. Thought all this work would keep me busy for a year, but I just can't keep my hands off it.:)

Maybe next I'll climb under it with a scraper and get rid of all that old tar crap that is everywhere - that should keep me out of trouble for a while...:D

[Homestar]

Well, taken it for its first real drive for a while (I really need a name for my 101 - any suggestions?) - anyway, overdrive works great - as pointed out, easy to engage but a bit trickier to disengage - I will need to practice that. Engaged the OD at just over 85 on the freeway and it pulled up to 110 fairly easily, but it was me that chickened out after that - it was dark and I was going WAY too fast...:D. People's reports have said it wouldn't accelerate with the OD in, but mine has no problems - I guess the engine is as perky as I was told.:). At 95 it is very happy now, and will be my cruising speed I think, so that's nearly 10 KMH more than where it was comfortable before, so a great result I think. I'm sure when I test the OD on some hills I'll soon find its limitations.:D

I've also got to have a word to the dodgy bastard that wired this thing up. I found I had no dash lights, so when I got back from the run, I fiddled with the dash light switch as it is a bit stuffed. Dash lights came on - great.... Now the headlights don't work...:D. Not sure what I have done there, it's not a fuse and something made a funny sizzling noise under the dash.:angel: I think the infrared switch may have just gone to god... Oops...

Also, grabbed a D1 booster today to check out if it would fit - I'll post more about that in the thread running on that subject...:)

[Mick_Marsh]

I've also got to have a word to the dodgy bastard that wired this thing up. I found I had no dash lights, so when I got back from the run, I fiddled with the dash light switch as it is a bit stuffed. Dash lights came on - great.... Now the headlights don't work...:D. Not sure what I have done there, it's not a fuse and something made a funny sizzling noise under the dash.:angel: I think the infrared switch may have just gone to god... Oops...
Thanks for the heads up. I was going to use him for some wiring but.........

The springs in the 6 way switch do have a tendency to corrode.

[101RRS]

Engaged the OD at just over 85 on the freeway and it pulled up to 110 fairly easily,

:Rolling:

I bet that was on the speedo and not the GPS.

[stuee]

The springs in the 6 way switch do have a tendency to corrode.

And the tracks burn out I found with mine. Hopefully now its mainly powering relays and park lights it should get a lot more life before a rebuild is required.

[The ho har's]

Looking forward to seeing at Glenreagh:D

we will have ours down there towing the 80":D:D

Top weekend to be had;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Homestar]

:Rolling:

I bet that was on the speedo and not the GPS.

Speedo reads 8KMH fast due to the larger tyres, so faster than that. I did have it to 115 on the GPS before the OD was fitted, which I think is about red line in top gear. A bit loud at that speed though...:D

[Sitec]

101's are great at speed.... If only for the looks you get when you go howling past someone on the wrong side of the road!!!! :)

[Homestar]

And the tracks burn out I found with mine. Hopefully now its mainly powering relays and park lights it should get a lot more life before a rebuild is required.

Mine is only carrying relay current and the odd short circuit....:D

[Homestar]

Looking forward to seeing at Glenreagh:D

we will have ours down there towing the 80":D:D

Top weekend to be had;)

Mrs hh:angel:

Yeah, really looking forward to it myself.:)

I think I'll be putting my hand up for a ride in the 80":)

[101RRS]

Speedo reads 8KMH fast due to the larger tyres, I did have it to 115 on the GPS before the OD was fitted

With larger tyres the speedo will read slow.

Soon after I got mine on the road I managed to get 113 on LPG on the GPS on the straight and level. Petrol might a tad faster but I have never tried it. On the straight and level my O/D top speed is slower.

[Mick_Marsh]

Yeah, really looking forward to it myself.:)

I think I'll be putting my hand up for a ride in the 80":)
Careful. You'll be wanting one.

Someone else will be wanting a divorce..........

..... and half the 101 sold.

[DasLandRoverMan]

101's are great at speed.... If only for the looks you get when you go howling past someone on the wrong side of the road!!!! :)

Better still the look when your truck is battlefield stripped, you're wearing flying goggles and towing a trailer.

[Homestar]

Better still the look when your truck is battlefield stripped, you're wearing flying goggles and towing a trailer.

Looking forward to doing that this Summer!:)

[101RRS]

Better still the look when your truck is battlefield stripped, you're wearing flying goggles and towing a trailer.

While the 101 is really cool with screen off (would be nice if it could fold), door tops and frames off (don't take door bottoms off as things fall out when you hit a bump) top and sides off, it is too hard and takes so long (particularly the windscreen and door frames) - two many nuts and bolts where clips would have been better.

I am considering using clips to hold the door tops on during summer so that they can easily be removed and making up a tube and canvas/clear plastic door top to carry in the vehicle if needed.

When the windscreen and door frames go back I found it difficult to get it all aligned together and took a bit of doing. It is a shame that when the 101 was designed that they did not put more thought into the dissambly/assembly process rather that just using nuts and bolts.

Do the full strip down once to satisfy yourself but other than door tops and sides you probably won't do it again.

Yes I know - party pooper :(

Garry

[Sitec]

Better still the look when your truck is battlefield stripped, you're wearing flying goggles and towing a trailer.

Now that is a must! Laughin my butt off here! Work have already decided that we are going to this years Xmas gig in mine with the canvas removed and doors gone... Might just have to suggest the goggles bit!! :D

[Homestar]

Ok, so as I mentioned before, I have been looking for new knobs for the levers in the 101. I also mentioned I had a solution, but I was only going to unvail it if I liked it.

Well - I do!:D

So, here it is, Gav's alternate knob replacement for the 101 levers....

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=62869&d=1373615040

Yep, Snooker balls...:D. Under $30 delivered. I have used the brass inserts out of the original stuffed knobs that were cracked and falling apart, and it didn't take much to get them out. Then I simply glued the inserts into some holes drilled in each ball. I've even used the black ball on the gear shifter. The OD knob is drilled and tapped as it is a different thread, and I had no insert for this.

Before anyone says it - they will be engraved next week with the writing - I have found a trophy place that can laser the writing on and fill it in white, so they should look pretty good.:)

And I didn't have to wait months for the 101 club to supply them. Not that they will care, but I would have been happier to spend my money with them than a Chinese ebay store, but hey, I tried.

Also, like Garry mentioned, the bigger knob makes the overdrive easier to use. Turns out big knobs are better than small knobs...:D

[101RRS]

Looks great.

[The ho har's]

LMAO love it:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[The ho har's]

Careful. You'll be wanting one.

Someone else will be wanting a divorce..........

..... and half the 101 sold.

Nah we have most bits here to build another 80" :angel: just need a chassis:D

Oh and Mr Marsh are you bringing your 101 to Glenreagh???

Mrs hh:angel:

[grey_ghost]

Well I got around to looking at Gav's 101 today - even got taken for a ride around the block in it... :wasntme:

What more can I say - What a beast! Very impressed Gav - what a fantastic rig. Just great!

Might just have to think about getting one of these myself... :angel:

Thanks for today,
The Grey Ghost

[Homestar]

Quick update. Wired in the new gauges and tacho today. Nice to have them there and functioning. The tacho is great - looks like I have only been revving it to about 4000 RPM all this time, so that should be keeping it happy.:)

[101 Ron]

I find with normal driving no more than 4000rpm is fine.
Under duress off road driving the tacho can see 6000 rpm without anything going wrong.
Going up a steep hill with a load on or pulling a trailer 4000rpm is the most I ask the motor for along period of time.
I have my cruising speed set up something like 2800rpm for 100kph/60mph.

[101RRS]

I have my cruising speed set up something like 2800rpm for 100kph/60mph.

I see you haven't fixed that speedo calibration yet.

[101 Ron]

The above is correct..........done by GPS.......but yes I haven't fixed my speedo.

[DasLandRoverMan]

I have a 101 speedo that's been doing a consistent 26mph for the past 4 years.

[Homestar]

Another bit done tonight. Fitted an awning to it for when I go camping - weekend after this one. Like everything else, it is fitted without modifying anything (much).

The brackets are bolted to the tilt frame with U bolts, so no drilling there, and everything is gal and it sort of looks like they should live there. The back bracket pokes out of the back of the tilt and the end flap just folds over to miss it, or when the awning is removed will cover the bracket completely. The front bracket again mounts with U bolts to the frame, but I have had to make a concession here and put 2 holes in the clear window bit to put the bolts through. When it warms up a bit I'll take the tilt off and take it to have a couple of eyes put in there so it looks a bit better, but it is hardly noticeable.

The awning is an 'Open Sky' - 2.5 metre, which is the same as an ARB one - and probably every other type out there, but I went for this unit as the awning material is green and the ARB one was a reddish colour.

While I'm talking colours, does anyone know of a green paint or dye that I could use on the awning cover as I don't like the tan colour much, or the bright blue logo on the front of it.

The UHF and HF antennas will be relocated to the other side of the vehicle tomorrow evening and I'll give it a test.

Sorry for the crappy pic, the ipad isn't too flash in the dark...:)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=63642&d=1375258699

[Homestar]

Hmmm, got a small problem which is bugging me now. When I rewire the dash and put it back together, the speedo stopped after the first trip out. I haven't bothered too much with it but had a go today at getting it going.

Checked the cable - all ok. With it removed from the back of the speedo, I can see it turn as I drive off, and this is confirmed as I can't turn it - it is engaged properly in the box.

I pulled the inner out a bit and I can feel it disengage from the box. While it was out a bit, I put it back into the speedo - I can feel it go into the back of the drive, and the cable pushes all the way home until it clicks on. Still nothing. I have read a thread on the 101 Club forum about the club speedo bakes doing the same thing - someone thought they were too short, but that wasn't the case apparently.

Edit - I have also removed the cable from the box and spun the inner - the speedo works if I push the inner in a bit.

There must be very little at each end engaging in the box and the speedo drive.

Ay ideas how to set it so the bloody thing works?

Cheers - Gav

[101RRS]

Sorry Gav other to say I replaced my speedo cable this time last year and I had absolutely no issue - then begs the question if you have the right cable?

Garry

[Homestar]

Yeah, but it was working fine when I bought it, and it looks like it has been there a long time.

It is the longest speedo calendar I have ever seen, and it goes onto the gearbox fine and onto the speedo fine so I can't see ow it could be the wrong one..?

[101RRS]

Yeah, but it was working fine when I bought it, and it looks like it has been there a long time.

It is the longest speedo calendar I have ever seen, and it goes onto the gearbox fine and onto the speedo fine so I can't see ow it could be the wrong one..?


Well why isn't it working :(??

[Sitec]

Years ago mine stopped working. Exactly as you describe. I ended up un crimping one end, and removing 5 mm from the outer sheath, then putting it back together. Worked fine then. It was when I was fitting the diesel and shifting the box about.. Hoping not to have that issue this time as will have to run a 90/110 speedo to suit the LT 230... (Hoping 255/100's and 4.7:1's will work out similar to 235/75's and 3.5:1's)!!

[stuee]

I don't suppose you can snap some pictures of it while your fixing it could you Gav? Mines naffed but not actually sure how the thing is supposed to be so no idea if it can be rescued or not. I'm sure I'll need a working speedo to get over pits too when the time comes.

[Homestar]

Will do Stuee. What pics do you want - cable, speedo, both?

Well, just got back from a good 'shake down' drive. Went for a run with Fraser130 - did about 200Km mostly on freeways, but some City and Suburban driving too. The Weather was terrible - blowing a gale. BOM shows wind gusts up to 80KPH and average wind speed of 50 odd in some of the places we have been. In general, it did a great job, but I have found some small issues that require attention. Here is a list of things I've discovered today.

- With a 50KPH tail wind, a 101 is surprisingly quick.:D
- With a 50KPH head wind, the overdrive is redundant.
- The OD has an oil leak from where the selector shaft goes into it.:mad:
- With OD engaged, it is most comfortable at 95 to 97KMH (GPS speeds shown here as the speedo,is still busted.
- At 95 (with OD in), the engine is doing a tad over 2,500RPM.:)
- At 95 (with OD out), the engine is doing just over 3,100RPM.
- My back didn't pay up at all in the original seats which I thought it may do if I spent more than half an hour behind the wheel, so I now know I will be keeping these original.
- At full throttle, The engine pings a bit - more on that below.
- I love this vehicle more every time I drive it.:)

As mentioned above, at full throttle I get a bit of pinging in the engine. Not sure if this is a timing issue or something, but the engine runs and starts beautifully as it is, so I am a birth loath to change anything, but I'll need to check this. What is the compression of these motors? I am only running normal unleaded in it - do I need to be running Premium, or is the pinging something else?

Also, I'll post a pick of our coffee stop - it was a little unusual and we got some funny looks, but was great fun.

But the thing I mostly got out of today, was that I'll now sure it will do the run up to Northern NSW and back in October with ease. :)

Cheers - Gav

[stuee]

Will do Stuee. What pics do you want - cable, speedo, both?


Mainly after pics of both ends of the cable, but will take a pic of the speedo without the cable in it if you have that. I have one good end on the cable and I suspect that the other end has been left behind in the speedo, but whats speedo and whats cable I'm a little unsure so don't want to go ripping things off the back of the speedo if they are actually part of it.

Cheers,
Stu

[101RRS]

Gav - the standard engine is low compression so if tuned correctly should not ping on 91 octane. If work has been done on the engine at some stage HC pistons could have been put in so maybe needs 95/98 octane - however the previous owner never mentioned it to me in discussions so I assume it is standard.

He did tell me about his great fuel consumption which if to be believed was better than I could achieve - maybe it has been tuned to run lean burn over the usable rev range and is too lean at higher revs.

Until you sort this I would not be driving it under heavy load or you could burn something out. The engine can take a lot of advance - in the order of 10 degrees btdc without pinging on 91 so a check of mixture and timing might help - have you topped up the carby dash pots because if dry can change mixture (as can oil weight).

Garry

[Homestar]

Thanks Gary. Once I heard that noise I backed off and haven't been running past about 75% throttle since.

It is in need of a good tune up - something I have yet to look at. The previous owner didn't do too much to it in the 12 months leading up to selling it, so it is certainly due for some work in this department.

I've never had much luck tuning these carbys on my own when I had them on my 86 Rangie, so I'll find someone that can do this properly. The 2 people I knew that could do these perfectly have both since past away, so I'll have to do some homework there.

As for fuel economy, I'm yet to run any numbers on this, but after todays run of around 200KM - looked up our route on Google maps as I had nothing else to gauge it off, I have used just under half a tank - according to the fuel gauge - which is a bit of an unknown quantity, but does sort of sound right I suppose. Even when I get the speedo working, it is reading faster than what I am travelling at, so it will show more KM than what I'm really doing, so maybe that is the reason for the claimed fuel figures?

Who knows, but I just start and finish my trips at the servo, and I don't really look at how much goes in - maybe I don't want to...:D

[Homestar]

So, here is our effort for having a coffee while out and about in the 101...:D

It was Frasers idea, he wanted to see if the coffee machine would run off his generator, so we threw them both in the back. Not sure what the locals thought but we got some strange looks. It was a bloody good coffee as well, better than a lot of places make and charge you $4 for. :)

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=63727&d=1375519572

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=63732&d=1375519837

[stuee]

Classic. Just need to repeat on a busy cafe strip :D

[101RRS]

It is in need of a good tune up - something I have yet to look at. The previous owner didn't do too much to it in the 12 months leading up to selling it, so it is certainly due for some work in this department.

I've never had much luck tuning these carbys on my own when I had them on my 86 Rangie, so I'll find someone that can do this properly.

As for fuel economy, I'm yet to run any numbers on this, but after todays run of around 200KM - looked up our route on Google maps as I had nothing else to gauge it off, I have used just under half a tank - according to the fuel gauge - which is a bit of an unknown quantity, but does sort of sound right I suppose. Even when I get the speedo working, it is reading faster than what I am travelling at, so it will show more KM than what I'm really doing, so maybe that is the reason for the claimed fuel figures?



The previous owner claimed to get 19l/100km when cruising along and it was maintained by a local mechanic - maybe use that mechanic to check it over.

My carbs have only had the diaphrams replaced and mixture/idle setup once and seems about right. My Jag has four of these carbs and I purchased the car in late 1982 - the carbs have never been touched since I have had the car - the car was laid up in about 2003 and I fired it up for the first time earlier in the year and it still ran smoothly and idled fine at 500rpm after nearly 10 years not having run - so the carbies once setup they stay in tune and run well,

Vacuum leaks around the inlet manifold of the 3.5 can be an issue and I have had this problem - plays up with carby tune.

You do have an issue with your speedo if your speedo is reading fast on your XZLs - given their size your speedo should read slow so that you could be cop bait. With 9.00x16 (34.7") your speedo should read very slighlt fast and the odometer should be about right. If I remember, your tyres are about 36.5" so your speedo should read slow by up to 10%. i have 315/75x16 (about 34.1") and my speedo reads 10% fast.

If on standard tyres and your revs are 3000rpm at 100kph, with bigger tyres at 3000rpm you will be going faster than 100kph even though your speedo shows 100kph, likewise with smaller tyres at 3000rpm your speedo will show 100kph but actual speed will be less than 100kph - :o but you already know that and I am telling how to suck eggs - sorry.

Cheers

Garry

[Homestar]

Classic. Just need to repeat on a busy cafe strip :D

Once we set up and people started looking we realised a pack of paper cups and a sign could have made us a few bucks...:D

[Homestar]

The previous owner claimed to get 19l/100km when cruising along and it was maintained by a local mechanic - maybe use that mechanic to check it over.

My carbs have only had the diaphrams replaced and mixture/idle setup once and seems about right. My Jag has four of these carbs and I purchased the car in late 1982 - the carbs have never been touched since I have had the car - the car was laid up in about 2003 and I fired it up for the first time earlier in the year and it still ran smoothly and idled fine at 500rpm after nearly 10 years not having run - so the carbies once setup they stay in tune and run well,

Vacuum leaks around the inlet manifold of the 3.5 can be an issue and I have had this problem - plays up with carby tune.

You do have an issue with your speedo if your speedo is reading fast on your XZLs - given their size your speedo should read slow so that you could be cop bait. With 9.00x16 (34.7") your speedo should read very slighlt fast and the odometer should be about right. If I remember, your tyres are about 36.5" so your speedo should read slow by up to 10%. i have 315/75x16 (about 34.1") and my speedo reads 10% fast.

If on standard tyres and your revs are 3000rpm at 100kph, with bigger tyres at 3000rpm you will be going faster than 100kph even though your speedo shows 100kph, likewise with smaller tyres at 3000rpm your speedo will show 100kph but actual speed will be less than 100kph - :o but you already know that and I am telling how to suck eggs - sorry.

Cheers

Garry

I would have thought 19/100 was stretching it a bit. That's what the Rangie does when I'm being kind to it. Based on my very inaccurate calculations I was thinking more along the lines of 25/100 but once the speedo is sorted I'll start running some calcs to see what it really is. I did get warned not to rely on the speedo with these tyres on it as it reads about 10 k's out and I'll get done before I know it...

Even though it looks a bit naff, I'll probably keep the GPS in there to cross reference.

[drifter]

If you have an iPhone there is an app called SpeedBox that will give you speed and distance.

[101 Ron]

The O/D will leak oil from the selector rod and the end of the countershaft where it comes though the housing at the back of the O/D.
The oil leaks are a design feature of the O/D as to stop the rear X member and diff housing from rusting and it was very thoughtful of Mr Fairly to provide that feature.
I have stopped the oil leak on the countershaft on my O/D by making a screw on end cap.
The leak on the selector shaft I need to remove the O/D to fix and I was thinking of machining a O ring groove on the shaft or in the housing......too much work involved to warrant to do it while it is working OK.

[101 Ron]

My 101 does 2800 rpm at 100 kph with tyres that are about the same OD as the ZRLs ???? , transfercase ratios fitted make a slight difference to these figures, mine is running the highest one 0.996 ????? using the standard compression motor.

[101 Ron]

Head winds do make a difference if you use the O/D or not and shows how much that box shaped front end takes to push around.

As for pinging

The first thing to try is check the ignition timing


The second thing to try is changing the sparkplugs to a colder range as colder plugs will reduce pinging.

The Third thing to try is increasing the size of the main jet.

The fourth thing to try is ensure enough fuel flow is getting to the carbies.

[amazing]

mine would get 12mpg ( 19.5 l/100)

fitted elec fans. ( dont bother)


12mpg



fitted overdrive ( dont bother)

12mpg


electronic assist ign ( great mod by the way)

I went with the assist so I could revert to points in an emergency

12mpg but smoother idle.


after a year when changing down for a junction overdrive let go. spit case in two.managed to still drive home abeit very smelly. Also bent fork selector for second gear.

the fairly o/d are not strong enough...
sure its quieter but adds a weak link.

did not change fuel use.

if it still has stombergs I doubt the jetting is off but check dash pots have correct grade oil. Too thin can give a bit pinking.
I found you can tune the carbs like the old SU which had a slide lifter.

remove carb 90. degree manifolds ( Bend a 1/2" spanner to make it easy) then with engine running and a flat blade screwdriver lift slide..if revs rise and continue that is rich if engine slows too lean..the revs should rise a bit then drop.

you will need to have timing set before this and balance carbs with your ear and a bit tube..or a uni-syn if you're posh

I know peoplehave changed carbs from strom to SU ( which doeshelp with fuel) but the stroms stay in tune as long as diaphram is good ( fit new to both as new silicone ones will last the life of vehicle) also stroms have a greater flood angle.


after a few years converted to gas

[Homestar]

If you have an iPhone there is an app called SpeedBox that will give you speed and distance.

Thanks but I don't have a smart phone, only a work one that makes and receives calls.


My 101 does 2800 rpm at 100 kph with tyres that are about the same OD as the ZRLs ???? , transfercase ratios fitted make a slight difference to these figures, mine is running the highest one 0.996 ????? using the standard compression motor.

I think that is about the same for mine with the OD in. It is comfortable at about 2,650 which is 95 on my GPS.


Head winds do make a difference if you use the O/D or not and shows how much that box shaped front end takes to push around.

As for pinging

The first thing to try is check the ignition timing


The second thing to try is changing the sparkplugs to a colder range as colder plugs will reduce pinging.

The Third thing to try is increasing the size of the main jet.

The fourth thing to try is ensure enough fuel flow is getting to the carbies.

Thanks - I haven't checked anything on the engine yet, I will start that diagnosis and a tune up next week at some stage.


mine would get 12mpg ( 19.5 l/100)

fitted elec fans. ( dont bother)


12mpg



fitted overdrive ( dont bother)

12mpg


electronic assist ign ( great mod by the way)

I went with the assist so I could revert to points in an emergency

12mpg but smoother idle.


after a year when changing down for a junction overdrive let go. spit case in two.managed to still drive home abeit very smelly. Also bent fork selector for second gear.

the fairly o/d are not strong enough...
sure its quieter but adds a weak link.

did not change fuel use.

if it still has stombergs I doubt the jetting is off but check dash pots have correct grade oil. Too thin can give a bit pinking.
I found you can tune the carbs like the old SU which had a slide lifter.

remove carb 90. degree manifolds ( Bend a 1/2" spanner to make it easy) then with engine running and a flat blade screwdriver lift slide..if revs rise and continue that is rich if engine slows too lean..the revs should rise a bit then drop.

you will need to have timing set before this and balance carbs with your ear and a bit tube..or a uni-syn if you're posh

I know peoplehave changed carbs from strom to SU ( which doeshelp with fuel) but the stroms stay in tune as long as diaphram is good ( fit new to both as new silicone ones will last the life of vehicle) also stroms have a greater flood angle.


after a few years converted to gas

Thanks. The carbys do seem to be out of tune a bit - my Rangie had the same setup a while back and I could feel them coming out of tune. I used to have a guy that could tune these in minutes by ear (an ex Land Rover mechanic who cut his teeth on early Rangies) but he is in his late 70's now and for some reason doesn't want to do them any more...:D

As for fuel usage, I'm not fussed what the figure is as long as it is running well. If I wanted good economy I'd buy a Prius...

Cheers - Gav.

[Homestar]

Ok, a quick question. What are the pros and cons of driving around with the front prop shaft removed and the centre diff lock permanently in?

The noise the front drive shaft makes on over run drives me nuts and 99% of my driving is on the bitumen...

Thinking long term I will get the diff rotated if I can find someone I trust to do it, but in the mean time...

Thoughts/comments welcomed.:)

[101 Ron]

I drove around for 6 months with the front tailshaft out....no issuses except for a slight increase in back lash.
With a good front tailshaft and the Overdrive fitted and working, the 101 tailshaft rattle should not be too much of a problem.
It should only make a noise on the float going down a hill.
The noise causes no damage.
Noise should disappear on the drive or on the overrun.
The use of the O/D makes it easy to keep the power on going down a slight hill and avoid the noise.
If the hill is too steep to keep the power on, then it is just as easy to back right off and load up the tailshaft with the over run.