Gav's 101.

[grey_ghost]

Sorry mate - no pics, it didn’t happen.. lol

At least that’s my mantra! [emoji6]

[Homestar]

If it didn’t happen, what’s all that extra stuff in the back of Hilux for... 😇😉

[Pedro_The_Swift]

no pics of those either!!

Me with G-G..
:ttiwwp:

[grey_ghost]

🤣

[Homestar]

😆. They aren’t mine to take pics of. Will have some this arvo of my stuff, the paint is drying on them at the moment - I wanted them to look pretty for their photo shoot.

[86mud]

About A/c Gav?

Would be a lot of head scratching to get it fitted.

[Homestar]

About A/c Gav?

Would be a lot of head scratching to get it fitted.

Not looking at AC, no - I have no idea how I could make that work. I just try not to drive it on days above 35 degrees or so, although I have done in the past, it takes its toll on you if you need to put in hours behind the wheel at those temps. Trip tot he centre is in August so won't need it for this trip. Up to 30 outside is quite comfortable going in it.

[101RRS]

A/C into a 101 is very easy - just pull out the standard heater box and put in a combined heater/AC box (evaporator) (I have one without the rest of the A/C just as the heater in my 101) a condenser in front of the radiator, a receiver dryer mounted in the tunnel and compressor on the engine as per Ron's onboard air compressor. A small electric fan on the condenser and wire and plumb it up - a lot easier on a 101 than many other vehicles.

[cooee]

hi gav
i must say you i am impressed with you
you reallydidnt take long to pull apart101 look foward to seeing how you progress
with your new mod
like you two little work buddies[biggrin]
cheers cooee

[101RRS]

like you two little work buddies[biggrin]


Looks like they need to go to Jenny Craig [bigrolf]

[Homestar]

Looks like they need to go to Jenny Craig [bigrolf]

Me too with them...[bigwhistle]

[Homestar]

So a bit more done. Cleaned, etch primed and painted the bits, then scraped and cleaned any mating surfaces. As the caliper covers the swivel oil fill hole, I drilled and tapped a new one on the opposite side.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7830/47520734021_b0b9b0f491_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fpfbCn)IMG_0550 (https://flic.kr/p/2fpfbCn) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

A pic of one side of the conversion kit.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7896/46796939724_db2e7c5c32_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eihxNm)IMG_0556 (https://flic.kr/p/2eihxNm) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Caliper mount on.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7916/46796939864_932e4a3f0a_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2eihxQL)IMG_0549 (https://flic.kr/p/2eihxQL) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And one side basically complete - waiting on the spacer blocks for the calipers to come back - they get machined down a couple of mm.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7853/33643800748_940f079524_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TfZgQ9)IMG_0555 (https://flic.kr/p/TfZgQ9) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Pretty straight forward job, a bit of fettling as you'd expect putting a bunch of parts from different models together but worked out well. Now onto the other side.

[Homestar]

A/C into a 101 is very easy - just pull out the standard heater box and put in a combined heater/AC box (evaporator) (I have one without the rest of the A/C just as the heater in my 101) a condenser in front of the radiator, a receiver dryer mounted in the tunnel and compressor on the engine as per Ron's onboard air compressor. A small electric fan on the condenser and wire and plumb it up - a lot easier on a 101 than many other vehicles.

Well I may have to add that to the list then. 👍

I’ve already got a compressor mounted in there as I have an air system on board too, but could sacrifice this in favour of a cool breeze.

[67hardtop]

Well I may have to add that to the list then. [emoji106]

I’ve already got a compressor mounted in there as I have an air system on board too, but could sacrifice this in favour of a cool breeze.Getting weak Gav??[emoji12]

[Homestar]

Maybe getting that way just a bit...[bigwhistle]

[Pedro_The_Swift]

nice 4 pot calipers,,
off a what?:o

[Homestar]

nice 4 pot calipers,,
off a what?:o

Defender calipers (aftermarket). Discs are modified D3 rears.

[101RRS]

Are using the design by Antony Johnson or the guy from SA?

Also when you do the power steering conversion what "version" you going to use? The simplest is using the old DAF Sherpa power steering box with minimal modifications (well really none as it bolts up with only an adaptor bracket) but getting a good box is a bit hard here.

[Homestar]

Are using the design by Antony Johnson or the guy from SA?

Also when you do the power steering conversion what "version" you going to use? The simplest is using the old DAF Sherpa power steering box with minimal modifications (well really none as it bolts up with only an adaptor bracket) but getting a good box is a bit hard here.

It is the kit from AJ yes - the guy from SA is very similar and uses the same parts too.

While I agree the Sherpa box is quite straightforward, I'm using readily available parts here in Australia. The design doesn't effect the fitting of the standard steering back at a later date if needed and maintains the exact steering geometry as standard - the pitman arm on the new box picks up the drag link in the same spot as the arm on the standard steering relay would. Exact details I won't share as it's one of those things that I don't want someone to ask me heaps of questions about on how I did it - just due to the fact if you need to ask about modifying your steering (and brakes for that matter), you probably shouldn't be trying it. Again, I'll be having this Engineered when complete but not something I'll discuss much further here or post much detail of.

[101RRS]

Thanks Gav - yes I fully understand - I am aware of most of the options (some good, some not so good) and will be doing one to mine after I have completed a couple of other higher priority things.

Cheers

Garry

[Homestar]

Thanks Gav - yes I fully understand - I am aware of most of the options (some good, some not so good) and will be doing one to mine after I have completed a couple of other higher priority things.

Cheers

Garry

Cool - I'm happy to share some details off line if you want some feedback on how mine went together and how it works on the road - will touch base on this once I'm done.

[Homestar]

Ok, got a bit more done tonight but work is seriously getting in the way of 101 time! [biggrin]

One of the things I thought I'd look at when doing the brakes is the brake booster - I fitted a D1 dual diaphragm booster a couple of years back and it transformed how the vehicle stopped, but it isn't without its issues. Mounting it to the pedal assembly is pretty easy but as it is much thicker, it pushes the master cylinder back quite a bit - to the point that you have to take just a whisker off the back of it to clear the steering column bracket - no huge issue, but something that bugged me a bit. Also, I found getting the speedo cable to fit properly and work was nearly impossible due to the extra width of the unit, although I know others that have had no issue with this. Lastly the D1 booster has quite a wide opening where the MC mounts which necessitates slotting the MC holes quite a bit - actually slotting them to the outside - again, no real issue as I made up some large thick tabs that directed the force of the mounting nuts back towards the centre of the MC.

Anyhow, I'm having another crack this time and bought an 8" aftermarket dual diaphragm booster to trial. If it doesn't work how I want it, I'll go back to the D1 booster. FOr a start it has 4 mounting bolts and bolts up to the pedal plate easily and will be more secure, particularly when I make up some plates to go behind it. Secondly it is 1/2" thinner so it's bough the MC back so it doesn't foul the steering column bracket. It is also a lot narrower so the speedo cable would fit much better although I've since converted to a GPS speedo so this is not so much of an issue for me. I've installed a 7/8" bore MC so hoping this will make up for the assistance the lack of area on this booster gives me compared to the D1 unit. Pedal travel is still unknown though, so may have to go back to a 1" bore, but time will tell.

So a few pics.

Mounted up on the bench.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7874/46612085215_c60e800b47_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2e1X7ZD)IMG_0560 (https://flic.kr/p/2e1X7ZD) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Temporarily fitted to check clearances - it fits very well, better than the D1 unit.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7838/33650802648_713c1fcafc_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/TgBafy)IMG_0561 (https://flic.kr/p/TgBafy) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

A close up showing the fit on the booster - the holes were filed out around 1mm each side to get this to fit, so much happier than the D1 setup.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7803/47527520791_d1bc93e3c4_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fpQY6D)IMG_0562 (https://flic.kr/p/2fpQY6D) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

And with the steering bracket fitted - everything clears without issue.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7848/32585216777_ab013149fc_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/RDrKGn)IMG_0563 (https://flic.kr/p/RDrKGn) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

So it FITS better, but it's not all beer and skittles (mmmm, beer...). The input to the booster needs a new bit making - not a huge issue apart from the thread size on the rod which I cannot work out - it is a fine thread - not UNF or Metric, so not sure - my local bolt supplier couldn't work it out either, so a bit stumped on that one and need to do some more research. The output rod is not adjustable so I also need to make up a rod extension for this (but you have to do that with the D1 booster too).

Lastly its performance is currently unknown, so until I get everything finished I'm not going to know if it is good enough. That could be a while too as I've now got all the steering out of the vehicle, so road testing won't happen until the PS conversion is complete - which will be a few weeks I think.

Anyhow, will get the other side of the discs on, finish off the upfit of this booster and get it all back together so I can crack on with the steering. Hopefully have all this complete by the end of the coming weekend.

[Homestar]

Hmmm, the intermerwebby thingy says the thread on the booster rod should be 3/8 National Fine but the bolt guy says it wasn’t. I think I need to find a bolt with that thread and try it myself. If it is, an off the shelf clevis will work...

[Corgie Carrier]

Maybe getting that way just a bit...[bigwhistle]

I got a solution to that![biggrin][biggrin][thumbsupbig]

[101RRS]

Gav is the smaller diameter master cylinder going to have enough capacity to drive your Defender brake calipers?

[Homestar]

A little more done tonight, but no pics. Fabricobbled an end for the pushrod - it turned out to be 3/8 UNF it was just the nut off it was a bit **** and needed the threads cleaned up. Drilled and tapped a hole in some 3/4” stock and shaped it to suit and drilled the cross pin hole. 20mm off the pushrod length and it fit perfectly.

Put everything back together and remounted it without the MC to check push rod setting out the front of the booster. The adjuster on the end needed to come out a bit but there was plenty of length to do this. Bolted up the MC and tested. Foot flat to the floor operates the MC to about 2mm from full throw so absolutely perfect.

So, although performance isn’t know I can definitely say that this fits HEAPS better than a D1 booster. It also is mounted by 4 bolts so much stronger overall rigidity of the pedal box too. I still have a couple of plate to make up to further strengthen it, then I’ll assemble it for the last time - I am very happy with the result. 👍

This is the unit I used - Brake Booster 8" Dual Diaphragm Black (http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/540761)

[Homestar]

Gav is the smaller diameter master cylinder going to have enough capacity to drive your Defender brake calipers?

Unknown yet, but I’ll give it a whirl. I’ll have to check it with a heavy load in the back to make sure when the rear drums are allowed to work, there is enough fluid to operate everything. Can always stick the 1” one back in if needed, but as this one is brand new, thought I’d try it. Nothing to lose but an hour of bleeding brakes. 😁😇

[roobar_and_custard]

While your calipers are split, you can measure the dia of the pistons. Assume a 0.5mm gap between pad and rotor and you could calculate the fluid volume required to engage the brakes. You'll need to allow for the rear drums too.
You can then work out the displacement required on the cylinder to suit which will also tell you where the pedal will be when the brakes engage.


Keep your calculations as you can show your VASS engineer these as evidence of compliance.

[Homestar]

While your calipers are split, you can measure the dia of the pistons. Assume a 0.5mm gap between pad and rotor and you could calculate the fluid volume required to engage the brakes. You'll need to allow for the rear drums too.
You can then work out the displacement required on the cylinder to suit which will also tell you where the pedal will be when the brakes engage.


Keep your calculations as you can show your VASS engineer these as evidence of compliance.

Hi mate, great to see you here! Yeah I started doing that but had a very strong G&T instead so will have to try again some other time 😇. I’m unsure of the rear wheel cylinder diameters, but calipers have 4x46mm pistons x 2. How much travel of the pistons do you allow for? It’s bugger all in reality as the pads basically stay in contact with the disc at all times so 0.5mm sounds about right, so I’d actually assume very little required for the discs, so the 7/8” bore on the MC should work better for a disc brake setup than drums.

Hows the Volvo coming along? It’s been a few years since an update! 👍

[Homestar]

Small update. Got one side completely finished, apart from the short brake line (old one was a bit too short) which my local brake guy will have done early next week.

Got the brake pedal assembly complete - with strengthening plate, which made a huge difference. That’s all back together, adjusted and installed back in the vehicle.

Lastly after soaking the steering relay for a week, I again put the weight of the vehicle on it and got the hammer out - to my surprise the first light tap lining it up made it jump straight out. 👍.

So onto the other side tomorrow or maybe a bit of fabricating for the power steering - will have to see how badly buried the welder is first... 😇

[101RRS]

So you would definitely recommend that after market brake booster over the D1 booster - I was surprised to see how cheap it was.

Garry

[Homestar]

As far as fitment goes it’s a no brainer, heaps easier to fit and heaps less modification required. Performance is the only unknown yet - that will be a few weeks before it’s known as although the brakes will be finished by this time next week, the PS will take a bit of time and I’ve already got all the steering components out.

My guess is that it will be substantially better than standard, but maybe not quite as good as a D1 unit as it is a bit smaller.

Will report back back on performance when I can - unless someone wants to do this on theirs in the meantime - It could be done in a day.👍

[Homestar]

Not much done today, did some prep work for the PS - can’t get the bloody arm off the steering box to remove it. Have it soaking with some rost off and a tie rod end separator wedged in there to see what happens. Tried heating it up, it’s on pretty tight. No room for a pitman arm puller either so brute force seems to be the only way. I could cut the thing off but I really don’t want to destroy it if I don’t have to, even though I have a spare.

[67hardtop]

Not much done today, did some prep work for the PS - can’t get the bloody arm off the steering box to remove it. Have it soaking with some rost off and a tie rod end separator wedged in there to see what happens. Tried heating it up, it’s on pretty tight. No room for a pitman arm puller either so brute force seems to be the only way. I could cut the thing off but I really don’t want to destroy it if I don’t have to, even though I have a spare.Use a bigger hammer....[emoji106] [emoji106] [emoji106]

[Homestar]

I’m using the biggest one I have - a 5lb mash hammer.

[350RRC]

Not much done today, did some prep work for the PS - can’t get the bloody arm off the steering box to remove it. Have it soaking with some rost off and a tie rod end separator wedged in there to see what happens. Tried heating it up, it’s on pretty tight. No room for a pitman arm puller either so brute force seems to be the only way. I could cut the thing off but I really don’t want to destroy it if I don’t have to, even though I have a spare.

Try heating it with a pin point torch on only spot with pressure applied with the separator.

If you heat the whole thing up the shaft expands too.

On a RRC (if they're still tight) they come off with a bang, so be careful.

DL

[Homestar]

Thanks - haven’t got a heat source that I could pinpoint any heat with. I’ve only got a large butane torch. Oxy set is on my wish list but I bought a bottle of Argon the other day to go with a shiny new AC/DC TIG welder so probably can’t afford another 2 bottles at the moment.

Have been soaking it in Rost Off for a few days - I’ll take the mash hammer to it again on the weekend. Failing that, I’ll have to destroy it to remove it. I can’t go one further now until it’s out of the way, so have a decision to make on Saturday if I can’t shift it.

[Corgie Carrier]

Have you got two mash hammers? or can you borrow another.

I have found on a few occasions that hitting it from both sides at the same time will flex it enough to break the rust seal.

Worth a try, the tricky bit is your co-ordination in hitting both sides together [biggrin]

[Homestar]

Unfortunately there is no room to hit it on both sides, it is in a very tight location. There’s only one side I can get a hammer to.

[goingbush]

FYI, that 7/8" MC your using is LR Part Number 569671 ( per the box the 7/8 MC I ordered from Dingcroft arrived in )

[Homestar]

Bit of an update, the disc brakes are all on and fit well. Very happy with how they fitted up and how ‘original’ they look having the deefer callipers on them - unless you knew Land Rovers, you’d think these came out of the factory like this (apart from them being all shiny when nothing else on the car is). 😉

Can’t bleed them up and test quite yet, I’m still trying to find a new brake/clutch reservoir for it as the old one is stuffed. Yes I know I can buy replacement 101 units, but at 70 quid each I’m looking for other options - it has a square dual reservoir unit on it at the moment from something (small truck or forward control people mover I think) so once I find something, I’ll be ready for testing I think.

PS is going well, but there’s a lot to that, so that’s the thing that will slow down testing of the brakes. All parts are in position, and turning the steering wheel moves the wheels through the new steering box now sort of, but all the fidley bits will take quite some time yet and I’ve still a few decisions to make before finalising everything.

[Homestar]

Found and ordered new reservoirs and some flash fittings to suit. Aluminium reservoirs which ended up cheaper that plastic ones. Will finish off some brake lines I have to move tomorrow so I’m ready to bleed the system when the new parts arrive. 👍

[roobar_and_custard]

Hi mate, great to see you here! Yeah I started doing that but had a very strong G&T instead so will have to try again some other time 😇. I’m unsure of the rear wheel cylinder diameters, but calipers have 4x46mm pistons x 2. How much travel of the pistons do you allow for? It’s bugger all in reality as the pads basically stay in contact with the disc at all times so 0.5mm sounds about right, so I’d actually assume very little required for the discs, so the 7/8” bore on the MC should work better for a disc brake setup than drums.

Hows the Volvo coming along? It’s been a few years since an update! 👍

Volvo is not progressing and i'm not a great contributor unless I have something to say. On the plus side, I do have a nice new garage slab. [biggrin] Just need walls and a roof, then I can get on with the re-build in comfort.

0.5mm is what I read as the travel to be allowed for in the normal operation of the disks.
In addition, there is a ruling that says:-
Master cylinder reservoirs must have sufficient capacity, adequate for the total displacement volume of all wheel (slave) cylinders and calipers. Total displacement volume includes the volume of brake fluid necessary to accommodate the variation in volume from new to fully worn brake pads or shoes.

I struggle with this as I don't believe any vehicle meets this requirement - I was planning on not changing my reservoirs to meet, but I guess the VASS engineer will be the key here.

[Homestar]

That’s interesting. So, for the fronts, there are a total of 8 pistons at 45mm each. Max throw from new to old on the pads is 12mm before I’m metal to metal, so if my calculations are correct, then that’s 18ml per piston, so 144ml. I’m running twin 125ml reservoirs but one does the fronts and one does the back and the clutch, so based on that not large enough... Hmmm...

[Homestar]

And for the wheel cylinders, they are a 1" bore and there's 4 of them on the front drums. Assume say 1/2" travel from new to worn on the shoes and that's only just over 6ml per cylinder so only 25ml total for the front. Big difference and something I hadn't considered. Assuming making it so that both reservoirs are connected would be a no no due to only 1 failure point if I did that - maybe I need to use twin reservoirs on the front and a single for the rear. Have plenty of room to do this - will discuss with my Engineer.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

what res did they originally use?

[Homestar]

Dual plastic ones, similar to what I’m fitting - smaller than what I’ve ordered I believe but not 100% sure of their capacity. Mine had already had these replaced so was looking for alternatives anyway.

2 of these sort of thing - Single Brake Reservoir | 101 Parts (https://www.101parts.co.uk/shop/brakes/brake-parts/single-brake-reservoir-copy/) - But the originals are plastic. These are very nice but bloody expensive. The anodised aluminium ones I bought were $34 each delivered.

[Homestar]

Well the reservoirs turned up and are awesome, but a bit smaller than expected and given it looks like I need more capacity, I’ve ordered another and a tee piece so fronts will have dual reservoirs and rears/clutch the other. Will look very neat where they are going - I’ll make a bracket and mount what I have this weekend hopefully.

[Homestar]

Ok, so that went well. Made a bracket to mount the 3 reservoirs and mounted the 2 I have. It will be easy to cut the tee in on the third when it turns up. Pick below. Bought genuine Aeroflow fittings and hose - that stuff is eye wateringly expensive but the only others I could find that would work were $2 eBay items and given the vibration, etc these get exposed to, I didn’t want to risk using cheap **** so bent over and paid the money. Can’t imagine how much it would cost in fittings and hose to do a race car or something similar...

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/47716611532_ef679022e4_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2fGy7bQ)IMG_0692 (https://flic.kr/p/2fGy7bQ) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[Homestar]

Ok, well got a HEAP done this weekend overall. No more pics sorry as a lot of it was the power steering conversion, which I'm not going into too much detail on here as far as pics and 'how too's go'. It's really something you feel comfortable undertaking or not, if you need a step b step guide on how to do these sort of things, it usually means you shouldn't be attempting it IMO. Got all of that sorted to a point it only needs a few parts cleaned and final assembly can take place. Still have the pump to mount to the engine, but that's a whole different job. It came out great, is very strong, and worked out better than I'd hoped for, but given doing things like this to vehicles throws up so many little jobs you never consider at first, I've spent hours running new brake lines, clutch lines, making customer brackets, etc. All in all it's some of my best work as I've made sure every last thing I touch is re done to a standard at least as good as the OEM did it - usually better. This has meant fitting and removing some parts 6 to 8 times to tweak things just right so they go back how I want them. I don't want to finish this job and still have those little 1% ers still hanging around - they are being done right first time.

All these jobs are part of making it rock solid for next years big trip so no point taking short cuts, that just defeats the point.

So hopefully I can get all the parts assembled for good after work this week as I actually need to be able to move it soon as the garage is getting some new equipment and I won't get that in with the 101 in the way.

That's a whole other story and something I'm very excited about (Think VERY heavy iron which is requiring me to upgrade the house electrics to 3 phase) [biggrin]

[Homestar]

Last of the parts cleaned and painted. Have a handful of bolts and washers to buy then I can do final assembly. A little bit each night helps in keeping things moving along. 👍

Oh, and here’s a pic of the first bit of heavy iron. It’s a monster and a lot bigger than what I need, but it will fit where I need it to in the garage and the last thing I would have wanted was to get a smaller unit then find it was just a bit too small.

Everything works on it it’s got some very nice features like rapids in both the main carriage and cross slide. Can cut just about every thread known to man including diametrical and modular (never likely to use those, but it’s got em). Had the lid off it, all gears in good condition, bed has wear as you’d expect but not aweful and I don’t need to do any close tolerance work with it.

Comes with 2 x 3 jaw chucks, a large 4 jaw, steady and travelling steady, face plate and a few spare chuck jaws. Got all the bits ordered to put 3 phase on at home so have the garage to clean out and some wiring to do before it comes home.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-and-variations/150679d1557137576-gavs-101-a-a9af1bf0-e1d9-40cb-bccf-5fdc0b597d27.jpg

[Homestar]

Got all the bits painted last night so tonight they were dry. Final fit of steering column, bevel box and steering box done. Everything works as it should and I’m happy.

Picked up all the loose bits from the lathe today, was more there than I thought - including tailstock centres, boring bars, some basic tooling etc. the 4 jaw chuck is unused or almost unused and still has a coating on it. Jaws are tight and straight. The small 3 jaw chuck is ok, but has some wear and the big 3 jaw is quite worn and obviously the main chick used on it. Also came with a 5C collet chuck too, so pretty comprehensive.

It comes home tomorrow week, so I have to get a wriggle on cleaning a space for it. 😁

First job it will have once wired in will be to help make a small crane that I can mount next to it to change chucks or put larger pieces in the lathe with, so yet another project to get sorted as there’s no way I could lift the 4 jaw or the face plate myself. Face plate looks brand new too and hasn’t seen much use. Doubt I will use it either so might make a rotary welding table up out of that at some point, will see.

Just to top the night off, I had to get my last Cat put down. Poor bugger was very old and it was time, but never easy...☹️

[Homestar]

All bolts, locktited, marked and checked. Floor back in. Need to find a nut and washer for the power steering box as it didn’t come with either, so off to the wreckers at some stage and I won’t be far off steering it again. 😊

[goingbush]

<snip>

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-and-variations/150679d1557137576-gavs-101-a-a9af1bf0-e1d9-40cb-bccf-5fdc0b597d27.jpg

Holy **** Batman, thats a proper Man's lathe . Makes mine look like a Sherline .

[Homestar]

Yep, I think a bit of ‘Tim the Toolman Taylor’ came out in me when I was looking at it - But last thing I wanted was to buy something a bit too small. If I find a job too big for this puppy, I’m up to no good... 😁

[grey_ghost]

How would it go doing Crump and Cornish break backing plates...? [emoji6]

[Homestar]

How would it go doing Crump and Cornish break backing plates...? [emoji6]

Easy as - with room to spare. 👍

[grey_ghost]

One of the first jobs off the rank then! [emoji3]

[Homestar]

Might be a few more weeks before the 3 phase is connected, but I know a guy that can get a suitable genset to run it in the meantime.... 👍

[grey_ghost]

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

[350RRC]

I've seen 3 phase created by plugging a 'magic box' into 3 single phase outlets.

Not my area of expertise by any stretch, but the road crew didn't blink an eye and it worked.

Ran the lights fine all NYE at a big local gig some years ago.

DL

[Homestar]

I've seen 3 phase created by plugging a 'magic box' into 3 single phase outlets.

Not my area of expertise by any stretch, but the road crew didn't blink an eye and it worked.

Ran the lights fine all NYE at a big local gig some years ago.

DL

Yes, but that still requires 3 phase power - they just use 3 x single phase plugs, each picking up a different phase. You see this at events when there is no 3 phase outlet close. Won’t work at your house just by plugging into 3 different outlets unfortunately. 😉

You can also use a rotary converter that converts single phase to 3 phase. For a lathe this big, that’s about $5K for a good one. Other option is a Single phase to 3 phase VSD - again, many thousands for the size required. Getting the 3 phase on at home is around $1500 - but that’s because I’m a Sparky. It would be well over double that to get someone in to do it. 😊

[goingbush]

I have a 3 phase motor on mine , plugged into a single phase 15Amp power point . Using VFD , Brilliant bit of kit , Forward / reverse and infinite speed variation by adjusting the AC frequency .

something like this

ECO New Single Phase input to 380V 3 Phase Output Frequency Converter VFD VSD 891783368414 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ECO-New-Single-Phase-input-to-380V-3-Phase-Output-Frequency-Converter-VFD-VSD/283347010357?epid=12007092845&hash=item41f8cc4335:g:~cgAAOSw2sxcRTHG)

[350RRC]

Yes, but that still requires 3 phase power - they just use 3 x single phase plugs, each picking up a different phase. You see this at events when there is no 3 phase outlet close. Won’t work at your house just by plugging into 3 different outlets unfortunately. 😉

You can also use a rotary converter that converts single phase to 3 phase. For a lathe this big, that’s about $5K for a good one. Other option is a Single phase to 3 phase VSD - again, many thousands for the size required. Getting the 3 phase on at home is around $1500 - but that’s because I’m a Sparky. It would be well over double that to get someone in to do it. 😊

Thanks, didn't know it worked.

DL

[4bee]

Last of the parts cleaned and painted. Have a handful of bolts and washers to buy then I can do final assembly. A little bit each night helps in keeping things moving along. 👍

Oh, and here’s a pic of the first bit of heavy iron. It’s a monster and a lot bigger than what I need, but it will fit where I need it to in the garage and the last thing I would have wanted was to get a smaller unit then find it was just a bit too small.

Everything works on it it’s got some very nice features like rapids in both the main carriage and cross slide. Can cut just about every thread known to man including diametrical and modular (never likely to use those, but it’s got em). Had the lid off it, all gears in good condition, bed has wear as you’d expect but not aweful and I don’t need to do any close tolerance work with it.

Comes with 2 x 3 jaw chucks, a large 4 jaw, steady and travelling steady, face plate and a few spare chuck jaws. Got all the bits ordered to put 3 phase on at home so have the garage to clean out and some wiring to do before it comes home.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-and-variations/150679d1557137576-gavs-101-a-a9af1bf0-e1d9-40cb-bccf-5fdc0b597d27.jpg


BLOODY 'ELL!

That is the sort of plant I'd love to have in my Sitting Room as a Conversation Piece, & when folk call I could be in the corner being anti social & spinning & screeching something up while coffee is being served from that neat little metal tray in front of the Head Stock while 'er indoors complains to guests about greasy boots & cutting oil all over the Persian Rugs & black hand prints over the William Morris Wallpapered walls..

But they'd certainly remember visiting.

A nice buy Gav. Just look at it as 'er Xmas Present to you if one complains.[bigsmile1]

[goingbush]

she might find it more useful in the kitchen !


https://youtu.be/LAcmTCCdZ1s

[4bee]

She might gb, but I reckon the risk of flattening any Victoria Sponge she puts in the oven might be at risk of not rising by the heavy vibrations of Gav doing some Aircraft Brake Drum Sets for a mate. [bighmmm]

Weeeeeeelllll, it could happen[smilebigeye].

[Homestar]

Long drive to bring them over but if you find yourself in the area, no problems. [emoji106]

[Homestar]

I have a 3 phase motor on mine , plugged into a single phase 15Amp power point . Using VFD , Brilliant bit of kit , Forward / reverse and infinite speed variation by adjusting the AC frequency .

something like this

ECO New Single Phase input to 380V 3 Phase Output Frequency Converter VFD VSD 891783368414 | eBay (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ECO-New-Single-Phase-input-to-380V-3-Phase-Output-Frequency-Converter-VFD-VSD/283347010357?epid=12007092845&hash=item41f8cc4335:g:~cgAAOSw2sxcRTHG)

Thanks - that’s actually not a single phase input unit. The specs show 3 phase input and when I asked the vendor about this he changed the title and told me to pretty much sod off. Not the most helpful person I’ve ever dealt with that’s for sure. 😁

[4bee]

Thick bastard! No not you Gav him/her. How very polite.
So that ones off your list now?[biggrin]

[goingbush]

Thanks - that’s actually not a single phase input unit. The specs show 3 phase input and when I asked the vendor about this he changed the title and told me to pretty much sod off. Not the most helpful person I’ve ever dealt with that’s for sure. 😁

I'll take a photo of mine , I got it and the 3 phase motor from a Sparky in QLD , swapped it for a Iveco transfer case mount I machined from billet. (I make them from alloy castings now that Chazza on here pours for me)

Speaking of bad descriptions on eBay , I bought what I thought was a pair of 'shocks" , from a Vendor ,, when only one arrived I complained and asked for the other one , they changed the description to read 'shock' and are trying to blame me. luckily I took a screen capture of the original advert from my cache.

[Homestar]

Well the first job for the lathe is here ready to go - just need the lathe now... 😆

Thankfully there’s no rush, but it will give me something to do when it gets here. Will be an interesting setup and fixture too. Might start a seperate thread on the lathe, or maybe an Aussie Machining Youtube channel? 👍

[Pedro_The_Swift]

"Fitting and Turning in a Mankini Down Under."......... [bighmmm]

[goingbush]

Really I don't know what I ever did before I had a home lathe and milling machine,
Its unbelievable how much I use mine and the first few jobs I did well and truly paid for itself.

Ive got a crappy Chinese clone mill but it does the job if I go slow. I secretly hope it blows up so I can justify a Bridgeport .

[4bee]

Really I don't know what I ever did before I had a home lathe and milling machine,

I know, you used a bow type thing with a cord attached & pushed & pulled it back & forth depending on what speed you required. No engine power, no electrical power just buggered at the end of the day.[smilebigeye]

Ah hang about, that was the McPhersons 5/8" Pedestal Drill. OOPS!

[Homestar]

"Fitting and Turning in a Mankini Down Under."......... [bighmmm]

I want people to tune in, not throw up! 😆

[Homestar]

Really I don't know what I ever did before I had a home lathe and milling machine,
Its unbelievable how much I use mine and the first few jobs I did well and truly paid for itself.

Ive got a crappy Chinese clone mill but it does the job if I go slow. I secretly hope it blows up so I can justify a Bridgeport .

The mill that is coming is a cheaper Chinese mill, but will keep me out of trouble for a bit. Interestingly, the lathe I bought is Chinese too - but built in the 1970’s So a very different proposition to what comes from there today and it’s considered to be a decent quality machine.

These are still being made as the B and C series to this day which are virtually identical in all functionality and specs. - China Ca Series of Lathe Machine (Lathe CA6240 CA6250 CA6266 CA6280) - China Lathe, Lathe Machine (https://wellonmachinery.en.made-in-china.com/product/roHQKIiuZZRN/China-Ca-Series-of-Lathe-Machine-Lathe-CA6240-CA6250-CA6266-CA6280-.html)

Doubtful they would have built basically the same lathe for over 40 years if it wasn’t half decent.

[4bee]

Jeeezuz, that'd be playing with fire & one's privates if the works got caught up with the gear. My eyes just smarted.[bighmmm]

[4bee]

The mill that is coming is a cheaper Chinese mill, but will keep me out of trouble for a bit. Interestingly, the lathe I bought is Chinese too - but built in the 1970’s So a very different proposition to what comes from there today and it’s considered to be a good quality machine.



The mill that is coming is a cheaper Chinese mill, but will keep me out of trouble for a bit.


Bloody hell now you tell me! If I'd known that I'd have bought one for just living day to day.[bigsad][biggrin]

[Homestar]

Jeeezuz, that'd be playing with fire & one's privates if the works got caught up with the gear. My eyes just smarted.[bighmmm]

It would be more that capable of ripping any part off you then beating you to death with the bloodied stump. 😁

[4bee]

But if one started off with a Bloodied Stump already how would it know it had or has it a Wi-Fi connection or an App of some sort? If you get me drift that is.





These are still being made as the B and C series to this day which are virtually identical in all functionality and specs. - China Ca Series of Lathe Machine (Lathe CA6240 CA6250 CA6266 CA6280) - China Lathe, Lathe Machine (https://wellonmachinery.en.made-in-china.com/product/roHQKIiuZZRN/China-Ca-Series-of-Lathe-Machine-Lathe-CA6240-CA6250-CA6266-CA6280-.html)

I was unexpectedly read Emergency, hospitalised on Sunday a.m. for a few days, I reckon my Chinese Nurse would have known all about said beds. Each time I went for a shower I came back & found she had made mine. Perfectly level & none of that 30* horizontal stuff either. She could have been an asset to you Gav in setting it all up.


Just sayin'.[smilebigeye]

[cjc_td5]

Really I don't know what I ever did before I had a home lathe and milling machine,
Its unbelievable how much I use mine and the first few jobs I did well and truly paid for itself.

Ive got a crappy Chinese clone mill but it does the job if I go slow. I secretly hope it blows up so I can justify a Bridgeport .Yes I agree re playing on a lathe. I use my 3D printer 10x as much as the lathe though!

[Homestar]

Yes I agree re playing on a lathe. I use my 3D printer 10x as much as the lathe though!

Still to take that leap, but I have been looking. Might need to rest my bank account for a while first. 👍

[4bee]

Is that code for 'er indoors has put 'er foot down?


Don't be embarrassed my son, we've all been there.[biggrin]

[Homestar]

Is that code for 'er indoors has put 'er foot down?


Don't be embarrassed my son, we've all been there.[biggrin]

Nope, not at all, I don’t have that issue. 👍

[grey_ghost]

I think it’s code for “I need to win Tatts to fund my various projects” [emoji1303]

[goingbush]

You could always make cottage industry money from your hobby to pay for the toys you need. Just have to come up with something people want.

I make these to replace the dodgy rear mount on Iveco transfer cases.

Chazza here makes the castings for me & I turn them into a kit ready to fit. He usually makes Series 1 cooling system cast alloy parts.

http://goingbush.com/AULRO/cast1.jpg


http://goingbush.com/AULRO/cast3.jpg


http://goingbush.com/AULRO/cast2.jpg

[Homestar]

Looks like I've already got a few small jobs lined up, so will see where it leads.

The savings I need to do is for a 12 x 24 meter shed I'm considering building at the moment down the farm - might be a tree change on the way at some stage.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Am happy to see the Tree Change is still on the cards,,, [thumbsupbig]

[Corgie Carrier]

Nice bit of gear, Gav

All you need now is for the space time continuum to change so you have 48 hours in each day and 9-10 days a week, so you can get all your jobs done and work [biggrin][biggrin][bigrolf][bigrolf]

[4bee]

Looks like I've already got a few small jobs lined up, so will see where it leads.

The savings I need to do is for a 12 x 24 meter shed I'm considering building at the moment down the farm - might be a tree change on the way at some stage.




I feel sure you have a mate or two that could let you have a NOS Hangar at Mate's Rates. [smilebigeye]

[Homestar]

Took some time lapse video of moving the lathe into the garage. ****ty quality sorry.


https://youtu.be/KKJpMjjNN5Y

[4bee]

Hell Gav! You can really shift when it suits you.:Rolling:



I know, you just got it fixed in place when your Estate Agent called in & said "Gav remember you asked me to keep a lookout for a little place out in the donga? Well guess what, & it's got a huge shed".[smilebigeye]

[grey_ghost]

For a big fella you move pretty darn quick mate! [emoji6][emoji3][emoji1303]

[4bee]

[bigsmile1] I thought I heard him mutter, "Bugger! It's the wrong way around, ****, that'll teach me not to be so quick".

[Homestar]

You should see me what I’m in a hurry. 😉

Got the sub board all in this weekend and some new wiring around the garage including 3 x 15 amp outlets so I can put the welders wherever I need to and have an outlet handy, plus one for the compressor. Also finally put a seperate circuit in for the spa - that’s been hanging off the kitchen circuit for years, and it didn’t like it when the spa was running and someone flicked the kettle on, so that problem is solved now too. 👍

Still have the main board to redo ready for running the new 3 phase cable to the pit out the front. Need to have everything in place, wired in, ready to go with new meter tails, service fuses etc before I book a truck call as that’s a $500 a pop exercise. The only unknown is how easy or hard it will be to get the new cable down the old conduit. 32mm conduit that currently only has 2 x 16mm STI’s in it. Need to get a 10mm 4 core cable through it. 6mm may just work and my calculations using AS3008 show 6mm V90 is good for 33 amps in conduit, but I’d hate to be wrong and find I’d used the wrong table so if I can squeeze through 10mm I’ll do that to be on the safe side.

[goingbush]

Took some time lapse video of moving the lathe into the garage. ****ty quality sorry.


That's neat, was it a Brinno TLC 200, what settings ?

[goingbush]

You should see me what I’m in a hurry. 😉

Got the sub board all in this weekend and some new wiring around the garage including 3 x 15 amp outlets so I can put the welders wherever I need to and have an outlet handy, plus one for the compressor. Also finally put a seperate circuit in for the spa - that’s been hanging off the kitchen circuit for years, and it didn’t like it when the spa was running and someone flicked the kettle on, so that problem is solved now too. 👍

Still have the main board to redo ready for running the new 3 phase cable to the pit out the front. Need to have everything in place, wired in, ready to go with new meter tails, service fuses etc before I book a truck call as that’s a $500 a pop exercise. The only unknown is how easy or hard it will be to get the new cable down the old conduit. 32mm conduit that currently only has 2 x 16mm STI’s in it. Need to get a 10mm 4 core cable through it. 6mm may just work and my calculations using AS3008 show 6mm V90 is good for 33 amps in conduit, but I’d hate to be wrong and find I’d used the wrong table so if I can squeeze through 10mm I’ll do that to be on the safe side.

Go the 10mm2 , save you upgrading when you install your CHAdeMO [bigwhistle]

[Homestar]

That's neat, was it a Brinno TLC 200, what settings ?

Nope - IPhone... 😉

[Homestar]

Go the 10mm2 , save you upgrading when you install your CHAdeMO [bigwhistle]

If I do that all the Teslas in the neighbourhood will be queued up outside...

In reality though, the 3 phase gives me a nice charging option if/when I do get an electric vehicle.

[Homestar]

Quick pic of this weekends efforts. Haven’t done any conduit work for some years - it is still a very pleasing job - used to do heaps of screwed metal conduit back in the day which I also enjoyed doing. Sub board is complete minus a 3 phase RCD/MCB combo I’m waiting on, which is the gap you can see behind the cover - only have a standard breaker in there at the moment.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-and-variations/151065d1558259361-gavs-101-a-img_0757.jpg

151065

[Homestar]

The heavy metal is multiplying. This little tacker (bloody heavy little tacker - almost broke my engine crane) made its way into my garage this arvo. Still have to clean and assemble it back on its base. Has 3 axis DRO plus seperate quill DRO, and some other bits and pieces. 👍

[4bee]

Quick pic of this weekends efforts. Haven’t done any conduit work for some years - it is still a very pleasing job - used to do heaps of screwed metal conduit back in the day which I also enjoyed doing. Sub board is complete minus a 3 phase RCD/MCB combo I’m waiting on, which is the gap you can see behind the cover - only have a standard breaker in there at the moment.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-and-variations/151065d1558259361-gavs-101-a-img_0757.jpg

151065

That really is a neat job & my former Sparky who was the best in Adelaide before his illness, would agree.

And now he is buggered for life after picking up a "Virus" of some sort in Hong Kong on a Retailer Sponsored trip which nearly killed him. Can't work, can't drive but he would really appreciate that effort Gav..

[goingbush]

The heavy metal is multiplying. This little tacker (bloody heavy little tacker - almost broke my engine crane) made its way into my garage this arvo. Still have to clean and assemble it back on its base. Has 3 axis DRO plus seperate quill DRO, and some other bits and pieces. 👍

Thats pretty much the same as mine , rebranded chinese clone, but I added my DRO ,
you are going to need a clamp kit , a rotary table and a boring head to start you off.

Amazing the things you will be able to make.

I buy these enclosures for $35 , quick touch with the milling machine & they go for $500ish .

oh I also include some electronics .


https://youtu.be/BiB0ybnlXJY

http://goingbush.com/AULRO/afam.jpg

[Homestar]

I still have quite a bit of tooling to buy - decent boring head included as well as a decent vice. It came with a clamp kit a couple of small vices and rotary table, so happy with that as a start. Hopefully by the time I get it set up, I’ll have a few extras for it.

[Homestar]

Mill is all back together and operational. Everything works as it should. Will be able to do the first job on it when the boring head I’ve ordered arrives. 👍

Hmmm, not sure why the pic is that way sorry.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=151440&d=1559122508

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Cos you took it with your phone? [wink11]

[Homestar]

Cos you took it with your phone? [wink11]

Yeah, but it’s the right way up when I just open it on my computer. Only when I attached it here it fell over... 😁

[gromit]

Yeah, but it’s the right way up when I just open it on my computer. Only when I attached it here it fell over... 😁

Open the picture on the computer, rotate right, rotate left then save. Should be OK when you attach it after that......

Colin

[4bee]

Yeah, but it’s the right way up when I just open it on my computer. Only when I attached it here it fell over... 😁


Hmmm, not sure why the pic is that way sorry.

It's obviously a Horizontal Milling Machine is all.[smilebigeye].

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Nice...[bigrolf]

[Homestar]

Had the mill making its first chips tonight. Bored out a couple of new brake backing plates to fit a Crump and Cornish trailer along with new mounting holes. Came out great, first time I'd use a coaxial indicator and an adjustable boring head. [emoji106]. Have taken some video of it all so might edit that one cold night next week and post it.

New one looks kinda like the old one. [emoji106]

151504

[mick88]

The mill that is coming is a cheaper Chinese mill, but will keep me out of trouble for a bit. Interestingly, the lathe I bought is Chinese too - but built in the 1970’s So a very different proposition to what comes from there today and it’s considered to be a decent quality machine.

These are still being made as the B and C series to this day which are virtually identical in all functionality and specs. - China Ca Series of Lathe Machine (Lathe CA6240 CA6250 CA6266 CA6280) - China Lathe, Lathe Machine (https://wellonmachinery.en.made-in-china.com/product/roHQKIiuZZRN/China-Ca-Series-of-Lathe-Machine-Lathe-CA6240-CA6250-CA6266-CA6280-.html)

Doubtful they would have built basically the same lathe for over 40 years if it wasn’t half decent.

That's a decent sized lathe Gav....no need to even remove the gap to swing a Land Rover flywheel.
What spindle dia. does yours have? I see there is 52, 80, and 105 mm.

Cheers, Mick.

[Homestar]

52mm on this one. More than big enough for what I need. 👍

[101RRS]

Gav - 101 mate - think 101 not lathe and mill - 101, 101, 101 [thumbsupbig]

[Homestar]

Gav - 101 mate - think 101 not lathe and mill - 101, 101, 101 [thumbsupbig]

Thanks for the reminder. I’ll be back on it very soon now this little interlude is sorted. 👍

[4bee]

How could he miss it, it's the size of a small truck?[smilebigeye]

[grey_ghost]

I recently enquired on the load rating of some tread boards, for the intended being a 101.. The answer came back “not suitable for trucks”. [emoji15][emoji3]

[67hardtop]

Are you talking about traction aids? If so can you get the ex military steel ones? I've heard they make them in aluminium too, now.

Cheers Rod

[Homestar]

Got a great little package in the mail today. It was very heavy so knew straight away what it was. My order of tooling and other bits and pieces from bigbjorn. If anybody needs tooling, HSS, taps dies anything like that I would highly recommend you speak to him. All of these parts came at prices that are much better than what you'll find on the shelves of your local tool shop by a mile. His expert advice was also greatly appreciated. As can be seen in the pic below I've got some HSS tool holders parting blades and holders, tap handles, Pitch gauges, knurling tools, boring bars set, high-quality Chuck and Arbor, and a heap of high-speed steel and tungsten tipped tooling as well. Although I've got no way of grinding the tungsten at the moment I will have something for that shortly. Should keep me out of trouble for a little while I'm going to go and put it all in my nice new tooling cabinet now.
151605

[4bee]

Bloody 'ell! Things a lad could only dream of years ago.[bighmmm]

[350RRC]

Got a great little package in the mail today. It was very heavy so knew straight away what it was. My order of tooling and other bits and pieces from bigbjorn. If anybody needs tooling, HSS, taps dies anything like that I would highly recommend you speak to him. All of these parts came at prices that are much better than what you'll find on the shelves of your local tool shop by a mile. His expert advice was also greatly appreciated. As can be seen in the pic below I've got some HSS tool holders parting blades and holders, tap handles, Pitch gauges, knurling tools, boring bars set, high-quality Chuck and Arbor, and a heap of high-speed steel and tungsten tipped tooling as well. Although I've got no way of grinding the tungsten at the moment I will have something for that shortly. Should keep me out of trouble for a little while I'm going to go and put it all in my nice new tooling cabinet now.
151605

Are those salt and pepper grinders metric or imperial?

DL

[grey_ghost]

I'm more worried about the blood pressure machine..!

Don't tell me that Chucky's heart is sick! :(

[Homestar]

I'm more worried about the blood pressure machine..!

Don't tell me that Chucky's heart is sick! :(

Not Chucky's heart, no....

[Homestar]

Are those salt and pepper grinders metric or imperial?

DL

Metric all the way. [biggrin]

[LRJim]

I recently enquired on the load rating of some tread boards, for the intended being a 101.. The answer came back “not suitable for trucks”. [emoji15][emoji3]Just saw these and thought of this post

Cheers

10T Heavy Duty Recovery Tracks Sand Track Snow Mud Tracks 10T Vehicle Blue 4WD | Catch.com.au (https://m.catch.com.au/event/4wd-megastore-101397/product/10t-heavy-duty-recovery-tracks-sand-track-snow-mud-tracks-10t-vehicle-blue-4wd-3500634/?e=marketplace&st=1&sid=101397&sp=4&asp=&aqi=)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190606/371b50a10e6722c1f0baa4eba6d73906.jpg

[goingbush]

ive never needed recovery treads in 40 yrs of 4x4ing . Always carry a number of hessian bags , half fill with sand, mud, stones, snow etc & chuck under wheels or in holes . They are there taking up no space or weight anytime you need them, & you don't have to look like a ******.

[Bigbjorn]

ive never needed recovery treads in 40 yrs of 4x4ing . Always carry a number of hessian bags , half fill with sand, mud, stones, snow etc & chuck under wheels or in holes . They are there taking up no space or weight anytime you need them, & you don't have to look like a ******.

On the western mail runs where there is a lot of sand and loose stuff we carried old coir hall runners. Jack up the wheels and pull the runners through and drive off. Roll them up and sling them off the lashing rails of the mail truck. Usually found them on the town tip. Does such still exist?

[Homestar]

Finally back on the 101. Putting the bits together found a small discrepancy between 2 of the parts - now I have a mill and rotary table it was an easy fix although I would have done it with the grinder had I not. All parts together and run out on disc checked checked - 0.07mm which is well within spec. Fettled the calliper so it clears everything - again, easy job on the mill and neater too. Did find one problem - the wheel bearings on that side once cleaned up were found to be too far gone to reuse - which is a bit odd as the other side was like new. Anyway, will order some and this may slow things down a bit as I really wanted it back on its wheels this weekend but anyway, a lot closer now. Will start putting the dash and interior back together tomorrow so that's all done. Might also have a look at how I'm going to fit the PS pump - A job I'm not looking forward to...151735151736

[goingbush]

Interesting, I have not thought of clamping to the top of rotary table like that, that will come in very handy for an Iveco job Ive been putting off because it was not suitable for holding in chuck .

[Homestar]

Got some more done today. Brake reservoirs finished along with all plumbing. Throttle cable back on, but missing a few small clamps so couldn’t get the dash back in but a good step forward. At least this weekends work has got me back on track with it so I’ve ordered some parts and should be able to get it buttoned up once they roll in.

[Homestar]

Parts are here, including new Timken bearings and some other goodies. Should now have enough parts to get it back on its wheels. May get side tracked this weekend though as I have a few other things on my plate.

[4bee]

So, what could possibly go wrong?[smilebigeye]

[Homestar]

Looks like it will be yet another week before I get back on this unfortunately - too many things keep coming up - Will be playing with the Lathe tomorrow - might grab some footage of this as I may have to use the enormous face plate of it (hoping not to as I need the engine crane to mount it) but fixturing of the parts could be difficult (hopefully the 4 jaw will be big enough, but yet to try.)

[Homestar]

Although the 3 phase isn't finished in the house yet, I did find something suitable at work lying around that will get me out of trouble...
152143

[Pedro_The_Swift]

And the tow car....

[Homestar]

The mighty Hilux makes easy work of it. 👍

[Homestar]

Well the mighty ‘Iron Horse’ lathe came to life this morning for the first time at my place - off the genset but at least I’m lucky enough to be able to grab one whenever I like - I might even plonk one semi permanently down the side of the house with my mates crane truck until I get the 3 phase finished - will see.

Everything functions as it should - only had a short play when I bought it, but it’s proved to be what I thought. Runs smoothly and quietly, all gears and all threading and feed gears work too. The rapids on the main carriage and cross slide are good fun too and not something I’ve seen on other lathes I’ve used.

Just finishing cleaning, oiling and adjusting everything then I have a few things to spin up - May get some footage of this will see how I go.

[Homestar]

Back to working on Chucky today. Had to make a new brake line to go around the power steering box, took me ages to get it right - one of the trickiest I’ve had to make - it almost broke me but I got there. 😁

Also, my knobs had started to fade so ordered some of the reproduction ones available now. They look pretty flash. 👍

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48218383166_97d187fd94_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gsTPpU)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2gsTPpU) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[grey_ghost]

“My knobs”.... I will leave that well alone. They do look great though! [emoji1303][emoji3]

[4bee]

It was always going to be a touchy subject, if you get my drift. [smilebigeye]

Ah knobs. Funny things knobs. When I restored my 88" S2A I felt I was on the home stretch when it came to screwing on the three new knobs & my word, it did look pretty.[happycry]

[Homestar]

Yes, I put that there just to see who’s minds the furthest in the gutter - now we know. 😆

There is a link in “101 - 101” that’s called “Gavs coloured balls” if you wanted to see them in all their glory when they were new back in the day. 😉

[67hardtop]

“My knobs”.... I will leave that well alone. They do look great though! [emoji1303][emoji3]Im not touching it either[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

[grey_ghost]

Im not touching it either[emoji23] [emoji23] [emoji23]

I’m not touching THEM either? [emoji15][emoji15][emoji15]

[101 Ron]

Who supplied the repro knobs ?

[Homestar]

Who supplied the repro knobs ?

Able Engineering in the UK, trading as 101 Parts. Fast delivery and easy to deal with. I actually get most of my bits from AJ as I can just drop in there and grab them but for these sort of bits I use them. - 101 Parts.co.uk | 101 Forward Control Parts Specialist (https://www.101parts.co.uk/)

Also, they make the overdrive knob both ways so you can get the right one one no matter how you set up your shifter. I was going to change mine as it is a bit dodgy but has always worked and if I change it now I’ll need a new one! They aren’t cheap, but where else you going to get them? (Don’t say the 101 club as I got kicked out of there for daring ask when these would be available)

[4bee]

I got kicked out of there for daring ask when these would be available)


Jeezuz, that's Ironic for a Super Mod.[smilebigeye]

[Homestar]

Only a Mod here, a very naughty boy by all accounts for daring to ask such a question. I’ve been kicked off 3 forums in total, all for what I would consider minor things.

- Asking when a part listed would be available again - got a tirade from someone about it being a volunteer thing, etc which I replied I understood but was just asking when, not demanding - gone....

- An X trail forum - started a thread because I couldn’t find anything similar - owner moved it to a thread which was 3 years old - no probs there, it actually answered my question, but he absolutely gave me both barrels for starting a new thread when one already existed - so I gave him both barrels back... gone...

- A caravan forum where someone was giving bad and dangerous electrical advise - I stepped in to clarify a few points - gone... with a nasty PM about minding my own business. I replied I had a copy of the thread (which I did) and his email which I would certainly use if anyone was injured or killed because of this guy’s advice - the whole thread disappeared but I was never allowed back...

So far so good here... 😇😊

[101RRS]

(Don’t say the 101 club as I got kicked out of there for daring ask when these would be available)

I got kicked out of the 101 Club too for accusing them of using international members as cash cows and not providing parts I had ordered and paid for.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

*places invisable marks against several names.....

[101 Ron]

I still read whats going on in the 101 club forum.( not as a paid member) They are currently all bent and twisted because Able engineering have started a 101 forum............good luck to able engineering as thinking has to change on the 101 club site.

101 club • Login (https://www.101club.org/forums/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=10324)

The internal messenger still works if paid member or not on the 101 club site.
For more than 10 years now I have been running around with a over drive and high ratio range rover auto transfercase gears on a stock bog 3.5 low compression 101 motor with no problems pulling the over drive or even towing a trailer.
They on the 101 club site think it is not possible and forget you don't have to use the overdrive if you don't need it.
I used the internal PM service to straighten some one out with the truth the other day.
I will most likely will have that blocked now after posting this.
we on this site seem to happy to share any information we have and are willing to be corrected.

[4bee]

Only a Mod here, a very naughty boy by all accounts for daring to ask such a question. I’ve been kicked off 3 forums in total, all for what I would consider minor things.

- Asking when a part listed would be available again - got a tirade from someone about it being a volunteer thing, etc which I replied I understood but was just asking when, not demanding - gone....

- An X trail forum - started a thread because I couldn’t find anything similar - owner moved it to a thread which was 3 years old - no probs there, it actually answered my question, but he absolutely gave me both barrels for starting a new thread when one already existed - so I gave him both barrels back... gone...

- A caravan forum where someone was giving bad and dangerous electrical advise - I stepped in to clarify a few points - gone... with a nasty PM about minding my own business. I replied I had a copy of the thread (which I did) and his email which I would certainly use if anyone was injured or killed because of this guy’s advice - the whole thread disappeared but I was never allowed back...

So far so good here... 😇😊

Sounds familiar. I once criticised a bloke in the UK for advising folk to re-use certain brake caliper bits for a Discovery when the WS Manual said not to do under any circumstances for safety reasons. I didn't get the arse but was sternly reprimanded & his post was removed pronto. I have often wondered how many lives have been saved by that.

Onwards & upwards.

All your above sounds fair & reasonable.[smilebigeye] Some people are quite precious & protective it seems.


Did you happen to notice that cyst like bulge in my left facial cheek? It is not a cyst or a Gum Boil it is my tongue, firmly planted. I tend to do that a lot these days.[smilebigeye]

Anyway, it would be very difficult to do if it was my lower cheek, not unless one had a tongue like a certain Lizard.

[Homestar]

Had a day off today and got a lot more done. The LHS is now fully complete. I do however have to pull the RHS hub back off. Although the run out on the disc is within an acceptable spec on the first side I did, I found I got the second side a lot better - my prep was a lot more meticulous and I’m pretty sure I can improve things so I’ll whip the hub off I’ve already done and pull the disc and adaptor and see if I can get it as good as the other one.

Pics of the complete side. Got to say that if you didn’t know better - this would look like it came out if the factory like this. Hoping that with the other Mods to the brake system that the braking performance is improved. But even if it’s the same as the drums (which were really quite good with the dual diaphragm booster installed) I’ll still get the benefits of what discs will bring. 👍

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48228981951_c45410798b_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQ94z)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQ94z) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48228983046_29fdbc2d4a_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQ9os)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQ9os) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[Pedro_The_Swift]

and the ease of pad replacement...
mere minutes a side.
The D1's were like this.



I wonder what else those calipers would fit --- [bighmmm]

[101RRS]

Had a day off today and got a lot more done. Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQ94z) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48228983046_29fdbc2d4a_h.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQ9os)Untitled (https://flic.kr/p/2gtQ9os) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

Hmmm I see you are part of the "paint all the pointy bits red" - that is just so yesterday [bigrolf]

Garry

[4bee]

Yesterday? i understood that was the norm for those parts for Mil. vehicles.

Open to be corrected though.

[101RRS]

Never seen it on in-service mil vehicles in Aust.

Oh by the way - just a bit of good humoured sledging between 101 owners [thumbsupbig]. I am sure Gav will have a great come-back.[smilebigeye]

[goingbush]

It was a MOD thing , So the squaddies don't undo the flange nuts to change a wheel , Red = dont touch , White (on the wheel nuts) = undo me . Squaddies cant really be that stupid can they ??

https://www.redcatindustries.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/loose-nut-restrainer-military.jpg

[Homestar]

Never seen it on in-service mil vehicles in Aust.

Oh by the way - just a bit of good humoured sledging between 101 owners [thumbsupbig]. I am sure Gav will have a great come-back.[smilebigeye]

All good mate, It takes more than that to wind me up (Something like a new Deefer thread maybe..[bigwhistle]) Mine is not Australian, it's ex British RAF and that was the done thing back then. I have refrained from painting the pintles as some do in the UK, but the drive flange nuts were red in service for a time.

[4bee]

On reflection that is what I was alluding to, MoD stuff. Thought it was the same practice for ADF. I subscribed to the Magazine "SOLDIER" yonks ago when in the RA Sigs Reserves so probably where i picked that up.

Soldier Magazine - Wikipedia


(https://www.army.mod.uk/news-and-events/soldier-magazine)

One listens & one learns.

[Homestar]

and the ease of pad replacement...
mere minutes a side.
The D1's were like this.



I wonder what else those calipers would fit --- [bighmmm]

Yep, will take longer to get the wheels off and back on again. 👍

[grey_ghost]

I think that Chucky looks fantastic Homestar. Thanks for documenting the process. [emoji1303][emoji3]

[Homestar]

I think that Chucky looks fantastic Homestar. Thanks for documenting the process. [emoji1303][emoji3]

You should be able to do your now there’s a step by step guide here... 😉😁

[grey_ghost]

Lol - you’ve forgotten more than I will ever know about Landies. But there is always Google and Aulro! [emoji1303][emoji3]

[Homestar]

I just make it up as I go, but I did have to break open the manual the other day to check the wheel bearing end float spec. 😁

[Homestar]

Well it’s the first time in weeks that I’ve been able to get back to Chucky. I can finally say that the brake upgrade is complete now. Had troubles bleeding the new callipers but sitting around a campfire at Wombat 350RRC enlightened me to a little trick - remove the pads, put a suitably sized spacer in where the pads go so the pistons can be pumped out to there fullest extent without popping out, then crack the bleed nipple and push each one right back in - heaps of air came out - about 3 times for each piston until it came clear, then I had a pedal straight away.

Will still be some weeks before I can test them as all the rims and tyres are coming off now and the rims are getting widened then new tyres are being fitted, so by the time all that gets done, it will be a few weeks I think.

Will post pics once the wheels are back, looking forward to this bit. 👍

[Pedro_The_Swift]

wow,, new tyres!!

win lotto? [bigrolf]

what are you putting on?

[Homestar]

Definitely not won lotto and I can’t afford by a long way to replace the XZL’s with new ones at $900 a pop. The old tyres are getting on a bit and with a 6000Km trip next year I need to have things ship shape and tickerty boo. I’m having the rims widened to 8” and having Nangkang 315/75/16 AT’s fitted. These are surprisingly cheap and despite my initial misgivings about these tyres Nagkang have quite a good name - been making tyres for decades and used to work with Yokahama. They’ve always been known for well priced odd ball sized tyres and these come in well under half the cost of the next nearest tyre in this size and nearly a quarter of the price of an XZL.

It’s still an expensive exercise - currently have 5 rims, going to 6 and with the purchase of an extra 101 Rim (hens teeth), 6 new 8’ hoops, welding of new hoops to old centres, the 6 new tyres, I won’t see any change from $2,500 for this but that’s way cheaper than 6 x XZL’s at $5,400 and once done a set of tyres will be $1,500 ish and the 315/75/16’s are available pretty much anywhere.

I’ll also be able to move the old XZL’s on at a decent price - 1 has never been on the ground and the other 4 still have 80% tread and are in good condition. A set similar on fleabay recently sold for over $1000 so take that off the outlay here.

Pic shows a widened 101 rim with the Nangkang AT’s on it - and yes, I’m glad I’ll be running power steering when these puppies are on. They are about an inch smaller in diameter than what I’m running now at a smidge under 35” but is very similar to the original 9.00/16’s but that’s only going to help my gearing - it’s not like the 101 is a speed demon and a few extra revs is unlikely to change its fuel consumption too much. 😉

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/101-forward-controls-and-variations/153709d1566641603-gavs-101-a-b8b716a0-598e-484e-841c-ec63b8ced6ee.jpg

[Pedro_The_Swift]

are you changing offset?

[Homestar]

I haven’t actually checked to see what will happen there to be honest. My guess is that yes, it will move negative slightly compared to where it is now due to the width of the tyres. If it’s left the same, I think I’d end up with clearance issues on the chassis. Maybe someone else here who’s had this done can confirm this. Ron’s are widened - not sure about Gary’s. Can always ask AJ when I drop the centres off.

[101RRS]

I have Mach 6 rims so the wheels stick a lot further out and the inside is further out from the chassis - not sure what offset changes are. Result is track is a bit wider, much better stability when offroad and no adverse impact when on the road - need extensions on the rear wheel arches to cover them.

153710153711153712

[Pedro_The_Swift]

usually a better turning circle....

[Homestar]

Well the tyres are off the rims and now I have the long job of splitting the plates from the old hoops. Will tray and get this done after work this week so I can get the new hoops fitted and the new tyres on ASAP.

Old tyres are in good condition and will hopefully sell quickly as I don’t have the room to store them - there’s an ad in the markets as well as Gumtree for these.

No going back now... 😁

[goingbush]

Before this you thought your lathe was big enough [bigwhistle] ,

I usually drill through the spot welds or grind away /punch out the rivets .

[Homestar]

Well it is easy enough to drill and punch the rivets - took about 10 minutes to do the first wheel - for those that have done this I’m guessing the hoop is shrunk onto the plate so it won’t come out easy - I would have liked to have kept the original hoops but I’m guessing I may have to run a grinder through them to free the plate? I don’t want to wail on the plate so hard I’ll distort it getting it out, I think the grinder would be easy but any other ideas before I turn the old ones into scrap?

[goingbush]

Well it is easy enough to drill and punch the rivets - took about 10 minutes to do the first wheel - for those that have done this I’m guessing the hoop is shrunk onto the plate so it won’t come out easy - I would have liked to have kept the original hoops but I’m guessing I may have to run a grinder through them to free the plate? I don’t want to wail on the plate so hard I’ll distort it getting it out, I think the grinder would be easy but any other ideas before I turn the old ones into scrap?

The 16" wheels I had done the diameter (well) where the centre plate fits is smaller than the diameter on the 16" Landy rims so they had to turn down the Landy centre to fit the new hoops , so don't be concerned about bodging them a bit. Put a block of wood in the centre and bash them out with a couple of wallops of sledge hammer . I suppose with the rarity of 101 centres a bit more finesse is justified.


Ive also taken the centres out of Landcruiser split rims and inserted to 16" x 6" hoops (non split rims) , they had to take a considerable amount from the outer diameter of the Tojo centers .

[Homestar]

Thanks - I’ve given them quite a pounding with a block of hardwood against the lip with a mash hammer - the centre didn’t budge even a fraction of a mm. I could put the rivets straight back in the holes they came out of at the moment. They aren’t rusty either, just extremely tight hence my wondering if I need to cut the old hoop off. I’m thinking if I run the grinder through the hoop across the rim it should almost come apart with a bang if there’s tension on them.

[fitzy]

Do you have a press?

[Homestar]

Not here no. When I need one I use my mates workshop but that’s 30 minutes away. Thought about this but again - is that going to warp the plate if I need to put that much pressure on it to get it out?

[fitzy]

Bigger hammer 🤣

[101RRS]

Apparently Ford F100/150 outer rims go on 101 centers without too much trouble.

[Homestar]

Have the new hoops, no idea what they’re off, but they will fit. Modern design with safety bead so another benefit.

[Homestar]

Bigger hammer 🤣

Think I’ll just cut ‘me off. 😉

[Pedro_The_Swift]

cant you do that AND hold a camera??? sheesh... :rulez::bat:

[Homestar]

Not sure if I'd still have all my fingers left if I tried that, but there's only one way to find out...

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Thats the Gav we all love... [thumbsupbig]

[Homestar]

So, as I sit here in the ER, I can only wonder what the video will look like. Hopefully not too much blood on the lens... 😆

Just kidding, I didn’t get home until late so didn’t try it tonight. I’m pretty handy with the grinder and only occasionally dust myself up with it. 😇

[Pedro_The_Swift]

https://proxy.duckduckgo.com/iu/?u=http%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F-Y_2g_0ZM-bw%2FU52F4nB_zhI%2FAAAAAAAAJZY%2FeKsi0Vi-MPI%2Fs1600%2Fsmiley-laughing-and-pointing.png&f=1&nofb=1

[goingbush]

How'd you go getting the centre plates out of the hoops Gav?

I'm getting stuck into our '49 Dodge , its got 16x5" riveted rims same construction as LandRover, Im wanting to go 5.5" or 6" JJ safety rim hoops and keep the original center plates as they have the hubcap clips, Ive managed to knock out defender plates without too much trouble but the Dodge are 70 year old and I imagine stuck pretty good.

[Homestar]

Hi mate, I’ve only done 2 so far, hopefully more this week. I had to cut the old hoops off. Given that they went off like a shotgun when they let go, I’d say I had zero chance of getting them out any other way. Looks like they were heat shrunk on good and proper.

[Homestar]

So, it’s been a while, but things are progressing. After starting to remove the rim centres, I had a fall at work which has slowed me up quite a bit. I’m back to doing almost everything I was before, but after x-rays and a MRI still have to see a Surgeon next week to see if I need surgery - crossing my fingers that I don’t...

Anyway, this caused me to have to farm out the rim job which has now been done, I have them all back, degreased, prepped, etch primed and primed now. Top coat hopefully tomorrow and it’s down to the tyre place for the new wellys. These have been ordered so all going well, could have Chucky back on his feet this weekend and out of the garage.👍. The Jag will love that idea. 😁

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49051671833_de9057c09c_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hJwD6T)CF441504-366A-4D13-90DC-07A5A0DC40F0 (https://flic.kr/p/2hJwD6T) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[Homestar]

And the first rim painted - doesn’t quite look the right colour here, and Wes isn’t sure either, but it is darkening up as it dries fully and I think it will be ok. Problem is it looks too good because I sprayed it, might have to slop the paintbrush onto it later if I don’t like the look once they are on the vehicle. 😁

Tyres are ordered and all going well, will be fitted Friday if they turn up in time which I should know an ETA tomorrow at some stage. 👍. For those interested, have ordered these - AT-5 | Nankang Tyres (http://nankangtyres.com.au/tyre/at-5/) - in a 315/75/16. Cheap and have reasonable reviews, including apparently being extremely good in the wet, which was one of the weakest points about the XZL’s - it was like ice skating with those on, so look forward to that.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49053172391_b5574992fa_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hJEkaz)19293AF7-0252-41D8-BC3E-34043DEBD4A5 (https://flic.kr/p/2hJEkaz) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[cooee]

hi Gav
i must say rims look brilliant [smilebigeye] look foward to seeing chucky with new set boots keep up good work
hope you feeling better after your miss hap

cheers cooee[bigsmile1]












And the first rim painted - doesn’t quite look the right colour here, and Wes isn’t sure either, but it is darkening up as it dries fully and I think it will be ok. Problem is it looks too good because I sprayed it, might have to slop the paintbrush onto it later if I don’t like the look once they are on the vehicle. 😁

Tyres are ordered and all going well, will be fitted Friday if they turn up in time which I should know an ETA tomorrow at some stage. 👍. For those interested, have ordered these - AT-5 | Nankang Tyres (http://nankangtyres.com.au/tyre/at-5/) - in a 315/75/16. Cheap and have reasonable reviews, including apparently being extremely good in the wet, which was one of the weakest points about the XZL’s - it was like ice skating with those on, so look forward to that.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49053172391_b5574992fa_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hJEkaz)19293AF7-0252-41D8-BC3E-34043DEBD4A5 (https://flic.kr/p/2hJEkaz) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[Homestar]

Thanks mate, next pic will be with all the rims and new tyres on them - dropping the rims off tomorrow arvo, will have them back shod Friday arvo. 👍

Depending on a few things this weekend, they may even make it onto Chucky and he’ll get to see the sunshine again. 😊

[Homestar]

Sneak peak - rims all ready for delivery to the tyre place tomorrow. 👍. Colour came out well, but I still think they’ll look a bit out of place being so uniform and shiny. It’s a satin finish but should have gone matt I think - will see.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49058790891_c0e2728119_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hKa8mg)78E963AE-22E3-4C00-9AB2-0DD6DE82BA90 (https://flic.kr/p/2hKa8mg) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[grey_ghost]

Looking great. [emoji1303]

[4bee]

Did the paint darken to the last image or is just the lighting? You're right, might need a bit of a sloppy paint brush over them but not too sloppy..

[Homestar]

Paint went much darker thankfully when fully dry - the shot of it in the sun it was only just touch dry, 24 hours later, it had gone the colour I wanted.

[Homestar]

Holy tyre stack Batman! New tyres are on the rims and hopefully will be on Chucky real soon as they’re taking up a stack of room in the front room 😁. Even with the cost of a new rim so I can run 2 spares, widening them and 6 new 315/75/16’s this still came to well under half the cost of buying new XZL’s so well ahead now. 👍

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49063314557_6d6eb07c5c_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hKyj5v)4959E48A-0FD8-4429-A8FE-74F74E32C742 (https://flic.kr/p/2hKyj5v) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[4bee]

[smilebigeye] Unless you have 34 rooms like in a French Chateau I saw on the box, you must be nearly out of rooms at your gaff. The Tyre Room. The Model Room etc etc etc.[biggrin]

[Homestar]

It’s like the ‘Room of requirement’ in Harry Potter - you find the room just as you need it. 😁😇. These tyres are in a different room to the other tyre room. This set is going on Chucky this weekend and the other set isn’t far off going on the series 3 so I’ll have heaps of room soon. 👍😁

[Homestar]

Also need to see if Inc is doing a tyre cover run any time soon and if this is a size he can get. 👍

I bet GG will need 2 new covers soon too? 😇

[DiscoMick]

How do you get away with keeping tyres in the house? I can imagine the reaction if I tried that.

[4bee]

I guess 'er indoors likes the pong of new Rubber.

Just as well Gav isn't re-shodding (?) with Steel rimmed artillery wheels then he may have a problem. [biggrin][bigsad]

[Homestar]

I’ve not made it public on the forum until now but wifey and I separated about 12 months ago after 25 years of Marriage. It was mutual and we are still friends but she doesn’t live here any more so it’s a bachelor pad essentially. The house is generally well kept but I do use the front and spare room as storage as I see fit. The tyres will be gone soon, as I’m trying to get the place sorted out properly.

Guess the cat is out of the bag now - that’s also why there’s a whole room with a train set in it too. 😁

[4bee]

so I’ll have heaps of room soon.



Don't get all disheartened, I'm sure you will find something to fill the void. [biggrin]

Maybe even a surplus 200 Ton Hamilton Panel Press ex GMH.[smilebigeye]

[4bee]

Ok understand but didn't really need to know that. So Ok, fill your boots with stuff.[smilebigeye]

[Homestar]

All good, it’s not like it’s a secret, just haven’t put it out there. 👍

[Pedro_The_Swift]

All good, it’s not like it’s a secret, just haven’t put it out there. 👍

After 12months,, its probably time you did.... [wink11][bighmmm][bigwhistle]

[Homestar]

Yeah, I suppose you’re right actually. 👍

[Pedro_The_Swift]

I AM good at this stuff[bigrolf][thumbsupbig]

[Homestar]

Yeah, you’re a right Dr Phil... 😆

[Homestar]

Chucky is back on his feet with his new Welles! Now, I have a question for the brains trust. Before I fitted the power steering box, the standard steering was super heavy - those that have driven 101’s know this. Those that haven’t it’s a whole new world - you can barely - if at all, turn the wheels when not moving if you’re on concrete or bitumen. It actually winds up so much tension you think somethings going to break and I think more than one owner has done just that - busted the steering box which is quite weak.

Now, I haven’t got the engine running and haven’t actually got the hydraulics plumbed up yet so imagine my surprise when I had a test of the steering now the conversion is done and the wheels turn quite easily now. Even with the massive 315 rubber under them. The concrete is reasonably smooth but not super smooth by any stretch and I guess the tyres have that waxy coating on them but they still turned what I would consider MUCH easier than before. It also doesn’t feel like it’s winding up like it did before and everything that I could see looks super solid so overall very happy. It also has less turns lock to lock, so go figure... Not upset as you can imagine but a little perplexed. 👍

The new rubber is around 15mm smaller in overall diameter and probably closer to the original size. No clearance issues at all - there’s oodles of room everywhere. The tyres do stick out around 50mm on the back and 80mm up front from the side of the vehicle so I have ordered some 100mm wide insertion rubber to make some flares out of and also some wider mudflaps.

Hopefully will drive him out of the garage tomorrow under his own steam although there’s still some work to do to tidy up a few loose ends, that can happen outside as the Jag is long overdue to get back in there. 😁

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068121781_6e7a9f2a4a_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hKYX6F)A0010E92-74CF-4685-9EFF-4C523F7430DC (https://flic.kr/p/2hKYX6F) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49067603843_f6a6b8adfd_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hKWi8H)A4A18359-8950-4A46-87FA-793BD17954CB (https://flic.kr/p/2hKWi8H) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49068328897_d0d8f55c32_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hL11ED)F5C2BEE6-BD04-4723-8E4B-E535A1A93E4B (https://flic.kr/p/2hL11ED) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49067603903_bed0c9d94d_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hKWi9K)AE9F2900-0881-4C19-8EC1-E1501EAD1D1D (https://flic.kr/p/2hKWi9K) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[16PMark]

Awesome! Looks good, and thankfully, no ugly weights on the outer side of rims after the tyre fitment.
Good stuff. [emoji1783]

[Homestar]

Yeah, they did well - they said they all balanced easy and all the weights are inside. 👍

The colour isn’t right though - needs to be a smidge darker, so they will get repainted when I find the right tint.

[16PMark]

Colour looks fine...
Are ya over thinking it?? [emoji848]All looks good mate.

[4bee]

RIGHT! Now back to the model Railway.[smilebigeye] Lovely job, & I can visualise the happy look on your mush. Well I could if I knew what your normal mush looked like that is.

I'm a tad puzzled by your remark though, about the "weak steering box". How come for a Military vehicle this was not picked up by LR &/or the MoD. Seems to me the last thing one needs is a crappy steering box when one considers the terrain it would need to operate over. I realise it was an ADF vehicle but it would have been built to MoD specs shirley?.

[Homestar]

Colour looks fine...
Are ya over thinking it?? [emoji848]All looks good mate.

No, colour is wrong, plain and simple - it’s an ex British RAF vehicle, that green is just wrong. Will fix that in due course - not overly fussed right now but I can’t take it to a show or anything like that - I might as well paint them pink. 😁


RIGHT! Now back to the model Railway.[smilebigeye] Lovely job, & I can visualise the happy look on your mush. Well I could if I knew what your normal mush looked like that is.

I'm a tad puzzled by your remark though, about the "weak steering box". How come for a Military vehicle this was not picked up by LR &/or the MoD. Seems to me the last thing one needs is a crappy steering box when one considers the terrain it would need to operate over. I realise it was an ADF vehicle but it would have been built to MoD specs shirley?.

Steering box is a known weak point - in an otherwise almost bullet proof vehicle with huge axles, CV’s and swivels. Not sure why, just is. My guess is that this is the only box they found that would work for the forward control setup. The housings have a tendency to crack. Mine was fine when removed but it only has 50,000KM on the clock from new and some with much higher KM have certainly suffered this fate.

Doubtful I’ll get back to the railway this weekend. Tomorrow is a clean up, move the 101 day and Sunday will be spent on the Tractor. I am doing a few bits in the background in it - glueing track down and have started the scultamold to build the landscape, but nothing much to take pics of at the moment.

... And stop calling me Shirley...

[16PMark]

The colour seems like for like based on your pics. I think it's the 'sheen' of ya new paint that is creating the issue? The reflecting light makes them look a little lighter...
Maybe?? Just me??? [emoji848][emoji1783][emoji16]

[Homestar]

Just you I think - both on the pics and in real life there’s a noticeable difference in colour. My Son couldn’t see it either but his partner could straight away so I guess some people can discern things a bit differently. The satin finish certainly is helping and also needs to go. Will try and get a matt tinted the right colour and slop a coat on at some stage.

It only has to be right for me, so if it’s not, it’s not. 😁

[Corgie Carrier]

Your wheels are definitely darker than the body, but don't forget that the body has years of paint fade due to the weather.
Have you considered a matt clear over the current paint to bring it closer to the body paint. You can get a can of matt paint made up at most paint shops to try it out.

Truck looks good, watching with interest.

[4bee]

I might as well paint them pink.

Now there's a novel idea & it would certainly be an eye catcher at a show..

"Anyone seen Gav?"

"Yep that's' him over there with the gay, hard looking 101 with the Pink rims." Mmmmmm, nice eh?[biggrin]

[goingbush]

The wheel paint looks good to me,
to put it in perspective I got some new hubcaps for the Dodge, these need paint !

https://scontent-syd2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/73324928_2541065905975184_3042649484975669248_o.jp g?_nc_cat=111&_nc_oc=AQmvdM5VVfyur-hbLgFIiTngVQq6w-pkTqSbacyohYvl6kvkFIR4jeMwfsEEnQypA1Q&_nc_ht=scontent-syd2-1.xx&oh=2ccaee4ae777eb4b097c33bd5b996e05&oe=5E468D27

[Homestar]

Your wheels are definitely darker than the body, but don't forget that the body has years of paint fade due to the weather.
Have you considered a matt clear over the current paint to bring it closer to the body paint. You can get a can of matt paint made up at most paint shops to try it out.

Truck looks good, watching with interest.

Thanks mate - Paint job on the vehicle is less than 2 years old and is the correct colour. You can tell particularly well where the new and old paint is under areas that don’t see the weather and inside the vehicle - it’s a completely different colour to the rims.

Might grab some matt clear coat and see if that helps.

Not sure why everyone is trying to convince me otherwise, I don’t like them so that’s that. 😁

[16PMark]

Fair call. [emoji41][emoji1783][emoji106]

[101RRS]

Bloody rivett counters [thumbsupbig]

Just use it as it is.[biggrin]

[4bee]

16PMark
The colour seems like for like based on your pics. I think it's the 'sheen' of ya new paint that is creating the issue? The reflecting light makes them look a little lighter...
Maybe?? Just me??? [emoji848][emoji1783][emoji16]



Wot he said ^^^




Recently had the olde peepers checked & my eyes tell me......

IMHO & for what it is worth, it is the same colour but the wheels are shiny & are reflecting available light, hence they look different. Take the shine look away & you are back to square 1. If for some "chemical" reason there isn't a difference, then a km or two up the road they soon will be the same.

[Tombie]

Ignore them Gav, I’m with you on this. [emoji41]. If it isn’t right then it needs rectification.

Once you see something like that. You’ll never un-see it.


Way too many LR owners settle for “she’ll be right”.

[goingbush]

Will be the same if you repaint them, will never get it perfect. Go for a squirt on some dirt road, splash a bit of water and dust on them , clean them , go for a squirt get them dirty , repeat, they will look the same in no time.

TBH its a way better finish that it would be getting by the squaddies with a brush (broom) , Its a LandRover FFS , near enough IS good enough.

Im purposely painting the Dodge wheels a different shades of Grey so I wont have this exact problem.

[Homestar]

Appreciate everyone’s concern but as Tombie said if it’s wrong it’s wrong. I’m not looking for a perfect finish and the repairs will be with a brush - which I always intended to do at some stage, but I was hoping the paint I had matched was going to be right. [emoji16]

[4bee]

I bet my socks Judge Dredd didn't have this to worry about with his 101 Taxi.[biggrin]

[Homestar]

Big day today, Grey Ghost came around and gave me a hand to do a clean up and tip run - huge than you mate. 👍

Then we rolled Chucky out of the garage, put the roll bar, back bars and windscreen back on then on with the tilt. All back together and looking like he should.

Have the dash and a few other things to do before he’s running again, then I can get the power steering pump in and take him for a run.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49072581557_1fc2372a20_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hLnNQn)D828C22E-C678-4943-8EC1-B3668804D27D (https://flic.kr/p/2hLnNQn) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49072581472_8ee8d48ba8_k.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2hLnNNU)2911BA4E-3495-4E0E-AD8D-445C1A9DF4DE (https://flic.kr/p/2hLnNNU) by Gavin Gregory (https://www.flickr.com/photos/150806513@N06/), on Flickr

[16PMark]

Gav, the wheel colour looks bang on!

[4bee]

I bet he will be glad to see some different scenery after 5 years sitting in much the same spot.[smilebigeye]
''
Looks great & just like a 'real'one.

[67hardtop]

What's wrong with pink wheels?? Bush pig had plenty pink bits on it. Not now tho...Thank God![emoji1787][emoji1787]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191117/a98900258decd868b8d7217511a52662.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191117/ac736030dc61fb9c6faebfc67d31d280.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191117/94539e80dd69f78243af18d87d4ba884.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191117/aabf9992098215109488850bb903dc96.jpg

[cooee]

hi gav[smilebigeye]
top job really looks great like your paint job and new tyres sure look foward to next year trip
cheers cooee[wink11]

[Lionelgee]

So, it’s been a while, but things are progressing. After starting to remove the rim centres, I had a fall at work which has slowed me up quite a bit. I’m back to doing almost everything I was before, but after x-rays and a MRI still have to see a Surgeon next week to see if I need surgery - crossing my fingers that I don’t...

Hello Gavin - Homestar, and other knowledgeable types,

I hope that you have fully recovered and that the MRI did not reveal any unpleasant surprises?

Kind regards
Lionel

[Homestar]

Hello Gavin - Homestar, and other knowledgeable types,

I hope that you have fully recovered and that the MRI did not reveal any unpleasant surprises?

Kind regards
Lionel

Thanks mate, sorry - I haven’t checked in here for a while. Surgeon went over the MRI and great news - no surgery required, just a fairly drawn out recovery which is progressing well but still nowhere near 100% yet but good enough for me to return to doing just about everything I was before, although some things still hurt and sets me back a bit but overall going well. 👍

[Homestar]

And finally an update. Spent the weekend doing a bit on Chucky, and got the following done.

- Clutch bled
- Brakes bled a bit more - I have a pedal now, but it’s not perfect by any means.
- Dash back in
- Throttle reconnected

All this meant I could start and move him. Fired within a couple of seconds and settled down into a nice idle. Brakes checked and working although pedal is low. Still no pump for the PS but I gently drove across the road and parked up while I cleaned out a few things and now have the Jag back in the garage. 👍

Went through several variations on where the best place for the PS pump needs to go - and haven’t found a solution I’m happy to go with. About the only workable solution involves ditching the AC compressor which is my endless air system and although I can put an electric compressor in for this, and I will at some point - I’m now thinking I may use that spot for a new AC compressor - for an actual AC system at some stage in the future.

So, I had a look online and have ordered a TRW electric PS pump which will mount up quite close to the box and will be a snap to plumb up. Given there’s a 100 amp alternator going in, the wiring will be up to this - this unit is used in several modern vans and is an OEM part so should do the trick. Draws between 2.5 and 80 amps depending on what you’re doing with the steering at any given time, so no dramas there. Should have that this week so with a bit of luck, the power steering may be complete next weekend. Then I just need to get the last pesky bits of air out of the brakes and I can take it for a good run to start the shake down process and see if anything needs tweaking or attention.

That will allow me to get on with the other smaller mechanical jobs like some minor coolant weeps then it’s onto the rear wheel carrier and the camping fitout so the fun will start there.

Hopefully have my spare gearbox in transit shortly for a full rebuild and taper roller conversion too so that will complete the mechanicals and I should have near new driveline by the time I head off on the big trip in August. 👍

[4bee]

That will allow me to get on with the other smaller mechanical jobs like some minor coolant weeps then it’s onto the rear wheel carrier and the camping fitout so the fun will start there.


Hooray, Gav. Now we might see some more bloody railroad stuff.[biggrin] Glad you don't need surgery that is always a bastard risk.

[Homestar]

Will see about the railroad - I think that’s more of a cooler weather thing by what’s happened this Summer. [emoji56]

And I’m on a definite time line with the 101 so it will always take priority at the moment when I’m able to work on something. [emoji106]

[4bee]

Dam'n!

[Homestar]

Sorry about that Chief... [biggrin]

[4bee]

S'ok, no probs. Just as well I enjoy your other posts here.[smilebigeye]

[67hardtop]

Hi Gav, Have you thought about the TS Astra electric power steering pump? Cheers Rod

[Homestar]

Hi Rod, I believe this unit is the same or very similar to that - I think it’s used in quite a few vehicles by the looks of it. Wasn’t expensive either so that’s a bonus. [emoji106]

[Homestar]

A quick update. Chucky is back on the road driving! Still got a few niggles to sort, but overall going well. I'm still waiting on the power steering hose to be made - the fitting for the electric pump is available, but not common so my guy had to order one. Even without the PS working, it steers great and is much more precise that the old box. Not really any harder to steer either, so can't wait for some fluid to be pumping around it to really help out.

Brake work great but still a blob of air in there somewhere but almost there - I need to rebleed the clutch too as that's a bit spongy, but nothing that can't stop me driving it.

Engineering process has started so hopefully have that sorted and signed off shortly too.

[Homestar]

More updates - the power steering is complete and working beautifully - it has transformed the vehicle and while I was happy enough to drive it without PS, I could almost use it as a daily runabout now it’s that easy to drive. Simple to park in any spot down the supermarket but best of all the steering has zero play in it which takes some getting used to in an old Land Rover!

Brakes work great too - slightly better stopping power but the drums always stopped it well after I went to the dual diaphragm booster but now it pulls up dead straight every time, so super happy there too.

[Homestar]

Ok, need the brains trusts help here - some time ago, I ditched the factory coolant recovery bottle as it didn't fit where I mounted the airtank, so had a little bottle zip tied on the wiring loom. The tank has been moved for the power steering so I can put the factory bottle back - but I'll be stuffed if I can work out where it used to bolt to - none of the holes I can find match up with the bracket...

Anyone got a photo of a stock 101 showing the location please? [biggrin]

[Homestar]

A/C into a 101 is very easy - just pull out the standard heater box and put in a combined heater/AC box (evaporator) (I have one without the rest of the A/C just as the heater in my 101) a condenser in front of the radiator, a receiver dryer mounted in the tunnel and compressor on the engine as per Ron's onboard air compressor. A small electric fan on the condenser and wire and plumb it up - a lot easier on a 101 than many other vehicles.

Hi mate, would you have a link to a suitable unit by any chance? Really thinking I might do this and get it out the way while I have a chance. Given I could use it as a daily driver now if needed, the last part of that puzzle is AC. Although I will never be doing daily driving in it, it would mean I didn't have to think too much about the temp when using it.

TIA