What did you do on your Perentie Today.

[Bearman]

Here's a few pics of what I am talking about!

[BadCo.]

Here's a few pics of what I am talking about!

How dare you tease us!

Edit: ah now they work

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Bearman]

and some more

[rar110]

and some more

You should fit a T3 and a bigger dump pipe while its out. 👍

[Bearman]

Actually it doesn't go too bad with the standard setup Pete. Once i get the boost and EGT gauges installed I intend to up the fuel a bit and see what happens - I have a 3" exhaust already installed and don't think the standard dump pipe is restricting it much at all, adjusted the tappets while I had it out and some of them were way out so will see what happens when I get it back on the road hopefully tomorrow arvo. Would love to have the same turbo setup as on my 4X4.

[Phil B]

Hi Phil, No the oil pump upgrade won't be on the mod plate but I would have thought that anything rebuilt or delivered after about '96 would have had the upgraded oil pump. No way of telling unless you take the box or engine out and check the oil pump. If you get to this stage make sure you do the clutch fork pivot post upgrade - I will post up some pics of it.


Thanks very much Brian.
Regards,

[robbo247]

Hi Chris 078, thanks for the colour pilbara red- ill see if protec can do it...if they have the code..it will be 342 - something

thanks
robbo

[robbo247]

hi warrick, great idea for music in the perentie rfsv, I must get the same setup..
where do you get these speakers with usb bluetooth..- jbhi?
Im a bit behind with the times here- but how do you get radio thru an iphone or ipad..
it is a free service with apple, or do you need an internet connection?

thanks robbo

[Landybitz]

If you have Bluetooth device then playing via a Bluetooth speaker will be fine.

Or you could do a hard wire if you wanted.

[wpalmo]

Just got back from putting around 2000kms on ARN51-745, camping out in the West Oz Goldfields for the last 6 days. ARN51-745 didn't miss a beat and I was surprised how comfortable she was. Certainly a massive improvement on my Series 111. Didn't find any gold but met a lot of people and had a great time. Thinking about doing the Holland Track as a practice run for the Gunbarrel next year. Love to hear from anyone else in WA who would be keen on a few days out on the Holland Track. It would be good to have some company.
Image below from the Sandstone-Menzies Road. The RFSV loved the red dust and soaked up the corrugations. Beautiful part of the world and great camping.
Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/60.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vPymzQ)IMG_2038 (https://flic.kr/p/vPymzQ) by warrick palmateer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/warrickpalmateer/), on Flickr

[wpalmo]

hi warrick, great idea for music in the perentie rfsv, I must get the same setup..
where do you get these speakers with usb bluetooth..- jbhi?
Im a bit behind with the times here- but how do you get radio thru an iphone or ipad..
it is a free service with apple, or do you need an internet connection?

thanks robbo

Really easy Robbo. I will come by and show you. As long as you have an iPhone or a similar device that has bluetooth you can do it. I picked up the speaker from JBHiFi for about $160 and all the music comes from my iPhone or iPad. I downloaded a few podcasts as well and listened to some interesting stories along the way.
Tristan on the forum put me onto a great lecture from Len Beadell that was fantastic. Well worth a listen. Click on the link below and it should play. It is hilarious as Len talks about his life and building the Gunbarrel Highway and Woomera Rocket Range.

https://vid.me/qe3E

[Carzee]

Just got back from putting around 2000kms on ARN51-745, camping out in the West Oz Goldfields for the last 6 days. ARN51-745 didn't miss a beat and I was surprised how comfortable she was. Certainly a massive improvement on my Series 111. Didn't find any gold but met a lot of people and had a great time. Thinking about doing the Holland Track as a practice run for the Gunbarrel next year. Love to hear from anyone else in WA who would be keen on a few days out on the Holland Track. It would be good to have some company.
Image below from the Sandstone-Menzies Road. The RFSV loved the red dust and soaked up the corrugations. Beautiful part of the world and great camping.
Regards Warrick.

Hi Warwick, can't wait to get around the open spaces of WA.

I'm looking forward to a REMLR trip in 2017 over your way in August 2017. You are welcome to join in. In fact any Perentie is welcome. :)

Its an event to celebrate the 30th Anniversary of the production of the Perentie (Aug 1987):
Perentie 30th Ann. Aug 2017 -ideas (http://remlr.com/forum/index.php'topic=3466.0)

Lets hope diesel is not expensive 2 years from now!

[TK_Co]

Thinking about doing the Holland Track as a practice run for the Gunbarrel next year. Love to hear from anyone else in WA who would be keen on a few days out on the Holland Track. It would be good to have some company.


You can count me in :) when r u thinking of going ?

[wpalmo]

You can count me in :) when r u thinking of going ?

Probably early in 2016. I am thinking January if you are keen. I am also keen to get away for a couple of days over a weekend in the next few weeks if you are free. Maybe an overnight trip north or east of Perth? Any ideas???
Regards Warrick.

[wpalmo]

Hi Warwick, can't wait to get around the open spaces of WA.

I'm looking forward to a REMLR trip in 2017 over your way in August 2017. You are welcome to join in. In fact any Perentie is welcome. :)

Its an event to celebrate the 30th Anniversary of the production of the Perentie (Aug 1987):
Perentie 30th Ann. Aug 2017 -ideas (http://remlr.com/forum/index.php'topic=3466.0)

Lets hope diesel is not expensive 2 years from now!

I will be there. Keep us all posted. Looking forward to it!!!
Regards Warrick.

[Dervish]

I tried out my $50 Gumtree tow bar today - it fits perfectly. Not exactly heavy duty but it will do any job I need a tow bar for at the moment and without the ball and shank bolted on it is very compact and light.

I did need to replace the old pintle bolts with ones with 10mm more thread ($8 inc new nylocs) and a new ball ($20) as the one on it when i picked it up was pretty shabby. I think it's a winner :cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/59.jpg

[BadCo.]

More details please Dervish!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Mick_Marsh]

I tried out my $50 Gumtree tow bar today - it fits perfectly. Not exactly heavy duty but it will do any job I need a tow bar for at the moment and without the ball and shank bolted on it is very compact and light.

I did need to replace the old pintle bolts with ones with 10mm more thread ($8 inc new nylocs) and a new ball ($20) as the one on it when i picked it up was pretty shabby. I think it's a winner :cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/59.jpg


I want one or four.
Where did you get it?

[Bearman]

Installed 2 air tanks and the hosework today for the onboard air system. They are mounted just above the battery box under the tray on the LH side.The compressor won't be fitted though until I have the aircon system fitted and work out where I am going to mount the York compressor, hopefully just above the a/c compressor where the Magnum air compressors were located - have a Red Dot 6100 roof top unit on the way, it should keep it really cool without increasing the radiator temps as the condensor is in the roof top unit. Also fitted a Redarc low water level kit into the radiator - pics to follow tomorrow.

[Chris078]

I wasted some time.

My footwells are nicely rotted, So I bought some front mudflap brackets to try and protect them a bit until they can be replaced.
no dice, the necessary holes to fit them don't exist in the front outrigger of my perentie and I'm certainly not going to drill some!

Also found this thread (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/stage1v8/Technical110PedalMods.htm) a while back a thought it would be nice to do (replacement clutch pedal spring - apparently makes for a much lighter clutch pedal).
Waited ages for the parts to come from UK, go to do the job and no dice.
Perentie clutch pedal doesn't have the fitting for the spring, and the box doesn't have holes for the pivet bushes. I thought I'd be
safe as mine is an 89 and the thread says from 87 onwards.

sigh.
interesting to note that apart from a lot of rust in the master cylinder mount I found that the pedal was just as hard to depress as always, even with the big return spring disconnected (all that does is hold the pedal up so it doesn't rattle around in the free play) so all that resistance is actually coming from the clutch system itself :o.

If anyone has a later model that wants the clutch spring parts, $50 and they are yours!

[cummo]

Bummer Chris! Always less than satisfying when things like that happen - especially after waiting so long.
Sorry to hear about your rust issues also. I would rather fix something mechanical than bodywork any day.
Good luck! Dave

[Chris078]

Bummer Chris! Always less than satisfying when things like that happen - especially after waiting so long.
Sorry to hear about your rust issues also. I would rather fix something mechanical than bodywork any day.
Good luck! Dave


Very frustrating indeed,
I actually have replacement footwells that I just had hot dipped.
Though now I'm a little gun shy after have the latest parts won't fit debacle.
any other time I'd fix the existing panel, but they are rusted right over the chassis outrigger, which means there is no room to work in.

Has anyone replaced that section of floor before? how hard is it? any special tools required.
If the panels just come out by removing screws/rivets I'll give it a go. If welds are required, that's a whole other story.

[Barefoot Dave]

'EMEI G103, Light grade repair (p169)' only refers to unscrewing the panels and tunnel. Sorry I cant advise furter as I haven't taken any off. The only seam I am aware of is high up on the firewall.

EMEIs available from Frontline machinery here:
Land Rover 4?4 | (http://afmsafety.com.au/safety/landrover4x4/)

[Chris078]

'EMEI G103, Light grade repair (p169)' only refers to unscrewing the panels and tunnel. Sorry I cant advise furter as I haven't taken any off. The only seam I am aware of is high up on the firewall.

EMEIs available from Frontline machinery here:
Land Rover 4?4 | (http://afmsafety.com.au/safety/landrover4x4/)

P191 I think is what you are referring to. Just the floor panels, which is actually nice as I need to take them out too. Covered in surface rust, so I should probably fix that before it becomes a bigger problem.

[Barefoot Dave]

Document p169 in my version.
All good. Should be an easy fix.

[lucas.armstrong.77]

9687996880968819688296883
Just put close to 4000kms on travelling from Adelaide up to mt dare, across the Simpson to Birdsville and back down, many more photos to come

[rar110]

Just put close to 4000kms on travelling from Adelaide up to mt dare, across the Simpson to Birdsville and back down, many more photos to come

How many jerries did you take? I think we took about 7 from memory going Birdsville to Mt Dare.

[lucas.armstrong.77]

How many jerries did you take? I think we took about 7 from memory going Birdsville to Mt Dare.


We took 4 jerrys for the perentie and 3 for an Amarok that travelled with us, had close to 20L left when we arrived at Birdsville

[rathgar]

I tried out my $50 Gumtree tow bar today - it fits perfectly. Not exactly heavy duty but it will do any job I need a tow bar for at the moment and without the ball and shank bolted on it is very compact and light.

I did need to replace the old pintle bolts with ones with 10mm more thread ($8 inc new nylocs) and a new ball ($20) as the one on it when i picked it up was pretty shabby. I think it's a winner :cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/59.jpg

Come on Dervish where are you hiding! I'm interested too. What is it from?

[Dervish]

Come on Dervish where are you hiding! I'm interested too. What is it from?

Not hiding, doing my homework. I didn't know whether this was a tow bar that was still available new i.e. whether there was a finite supply or not. The dilemma is that if I put the information on the forum, this towbar will go the way of the Defender single cab. That is, 2nd hand supply will evaporate very quickly. If they're still available new at a decent price, that's much less of a problem.

I sent a picture of this towbar to Hayman Reese with the part number a few days ago and yesterday they responded confirming that it is still available under the same part # and it hasn't changed in design. Perfect, I guess everyone can have at it then.

Hayman Reese P/N: 01532

[rathgar]

Thanks Dervish.

I was kind of hoping it was a universal fit (and rated stronger) as fitting a tow hitch designed for another vehicle will absolve the manufacturer of all liability I would think.

[LandroverScott]

Hi, what sort of price and what rating? look pretty good, might give my local guy a call

[rathgar]

It is rated at1250kg with 90 kg ball weight for a Mitsubishi Pajero.

[BadCo.]

It is rated at1250kg with 90 kg ball weight for a Mitsubishi Pajero.

Plenty for the Perenties tow capacity.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[rathgar]

Plenty for the Perenties tow capacity.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

So the army says. But if you want to be legal on one front you would probably want to be legal on all fronts.

[lucas.armstrong.77]

more photos from the simpson

[Dervish]

Hahah, I love the Mad Max photo

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I stole my Perentie back from a mate who'd borrowed it a little too long. :o

[DWCamo]

Replaced a tube that sprung a leak. 9720497205

[Bearman]

Did you convert it to tubeless while you are at it. Otherwise you better get used to using those tyre levers!

[mick88]

Replaced a tube that sprung a leak. 9720497205



Looks like you have had your monies worth out of that mallet!
You must have plenty of experience at mending flats!




Cheers, Mick.

[Carzee]

Mt Coree trig (ACT-NSW border) yesterday.

Wet. Freezing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/919.jpg

[DWCamo]

Did you convert it to tubeless while you are at it. Otherwise you better get used to using those tyre levers!


Bearman, no I didn't. How do I go about converting to tubeless? Sounds like it might be the go.
Cheers, DW

[DWCamo]

Looks like you have had your monies worth out of that mallet!
You must have plenty of experience at mending flats!




Cheers, Mick.


Mick. That's my first flat tyre since buying my Perentie two years ago. That mallet certainly has seen a bit of work. It's owned by a an old mechanic mate of mine who is 75.
Cheers, DW

[Bearman]

Bearman, no I didn't. How do I go about converting to tubeless? Sounds like it might be the go.
Cheers, DW

Easy, toss the tube away and fit a tubeless valve stem (TR415) put the tyre back on and hey presto, no more flats from holes being rubbed in tubes. Be aware that from an insurance point of view there may be implications legally if the vehicle is involved in an accident and it can be proved that running a tubed rim tubeless caused or contributed to the accident - I have never heard of one though. I have been doing this for over 30 years and have never had a problem yet!

[87County]

Some commercial tyre fitters buck at fitting them tubeless, be prepared to tell them that it is just for use on a farm trailer.

[The Beast]

cool photo Carzee

[mark2]

Easy, toss the tube away and fit a tubeless valve stem (TR415) put the tyre back on and hey presto, no more flats from holes being rubbed in tubes. Be aware that from an insurance point of view there may be implications legally if the vehicle is involved in an accident and it can be proved that running a tubed rim tubeless caused or contributed to the accident - I have never heard of one though. I have been doing this for over 30 years and have never had a problem yet!

Brian - do you know if the Perentie spec rims are welded or riveted?

[Bearman]

Brian - do you know if the Perentie spec rims are welded or riveted?

Spot welded.

[Chris078]

Bearman, no I didn't. How do I go about converting to tubeless? Sounds like it might be the go.
Cheers, DW

You will probably need to buy new rims as the standard ones are tubed and cannot be fitted with tubeless tyres.

There are quite a few threads containing a wealth of (confusing) information about what fits, and what is legal, that you will find by searching Tyres or Rims in the search field.

[Chris078]

Easy, toss the tube away and fit a tubeless valve stem (TR415) put the tyre back on and hey presto, no more flats from holes being rubbed in tubes. Be aware that from an insurance point of view there may be implications legally if the vehicle is involved in an accident and it can be proved that running a tubed rim tubeless caused or contributed to the accident - I have never heard of one though. I have been doing this for over 30 years and have never had a problem yet!


As an ex insurance underwriter, I can say that I denied several claims due to just this.
Tubed rims don't have a safety bead, which means the tyre can leave the rim under adverse conditions. It also means that your car is technically un-roadworthy. THAT means that a claim can be denied, even if the wheels/tyres had nothing to do with the accident (though that would generally only happen if the assessor was in a bad mood or the client was being ........ difficult shall we say.

[Mick_Marsh]

As an ex insurance underwriter, I can say that I denied several claims due to just this.
Tubed rims don't have a safety bead, which means the tyre can leave the rim under adverse conditions. It also means that your car is technically un-roadworthy. THAT means that a claim can be denied, even if the wheels/tyres had nothing to do with the accident (though that would generally only happen if the assessor was in a bad mood or the client was being ........ difficult shall we say.
It surprises me, though, the amount of tyre fitters that still insist on fitting a tube type tyre to a tube type rim without a tube.
When I come up against this (as I often do), I always point out to the tyre fitter that I only shop in establishments where "The customer is always right".
The other thing I would point out is there was a time when there were tubeless tyres but no tubeless rims. One was developed before the other.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

You will probably need to buy new rims as the standard ones are tubed and cannot be fitted with tubeless tyres.

There are quite a few threads containing a wealth of (confusing) information about what fits, and what is legal, that you will find by searching Tyres or Rims in the search field.The problem with converting to tubeless rims is that the Perentie have a 6" wide rim where all other Defender steel rims are either 5.5" or 6.5" and the Wolf rims are a different design.

MoD (Ex-UK) Wolf Land Rover rims.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/871.jpg

It surprises me, though, the amount of tyre fitters that still insist on fitting a tube type tyre to a tube type rim without a tube.
When I come up against this (as I often do), I always point out to the tyre fitter that I only shop in establishments where "The customer is always right".
The other thing I would point out is there was a time when there were tubeless tyres but no tubeless rims. One was developed before the other.
It is also quite difficult to get tube type tyres. As you will read elsewhere, tube type tyres are smoothed inside during the manufacture process. This reduces the friction caused by the ribs inside the case rubbing on the tube that in-turn reduces tube life.

A couple of things to consider. Always get good quality tubes (Michelin or Bridgestone) even if you have to wait till they are ordered in.
Dust the inside of the tyre with lots of talcum powder before fitting up.

[Chris078]

It surprises me, though, the amount of tyre fitters that still insist on fitting a tube type tyre to a tube type rim without a tube.
When I come up against this (as I often do), I always point out to the tyre fitter that I only shop in establishments where "The customer is always right".
The other thing I would point out is there was a time when there were tubeless tyres but no tubeless rims. One was developed before the other.


The tyre fitter should know better. Not only is that extremely dangerous for the fitter (the tyre is liable to blow off in the initial inflation) it is also illegal.

As long as they meet the required load rating, 6.5" rims will be (as far as I'm aware) legal to fit in all states/territories in AUS. A quick call to your local transport authority we be able to confirm.

Proper, tubed tyres are becoming increasingly difficult to find, as are good quality tubes (not the chinesium that most places stock). You can put a tube inside a tubeless tyre, as previously mentioned, not recommended as the rough inside of the tyre can eat the tube.


tl'dr either stick with tubed tyres, or upgrade properly with new rims and tyres if you want to go tubeless.

[Mick_Marsh]

Not only is that extremely dangerous for the fitter (the tyre is liable to blow off in the initial inflation) it is also illegal.
No mention of legality in the ADRs. At least, I couldn't find any.
What regulatory authority document can you point us to that states the fitting of tubeless tyres to tubed rims is illegal?

[Lotz-A-Landies]

The tyre fitter should know better. Not only is that extremely dangerous for the fitter (the tyre is liable to blow off in the initial inflation) it is also illegal.

As long as they meet the required load rating, 6.5" rims will be (as far as I'm aware) legal to fit in all states/territories in AUS. A quick call to your local transport authority we be able to confirm.

...The 6.5 130 rims have a greater load rating and are legal to use, but to the purists they are not Perentie rims. Same with the wolfe rims available in both 5.5 and 6.5 but obvious to everyone as non standard. This may not be important to many people.

I had a tyre fitter amazed when I pointed out that the original alloys on my MY85 Range Rover Phase II Hi Line were tubed rims. They look the same as the alloys on the MY86 to MY92 which are tubeless.

[Landybitz]

Those 130 rims are no longer available in Au, and stupid price in the UK new.

[Carzee]

cool photo Carzee

Yeah it was a cool day - in fact I actually had the heater on (even though they're famous for being detrimental to global warming and putting out more noise than a wind farm).

more - http://www.remlr.com/wiki/index.php'title=2015_Canberra_Campfire_3

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Those 130 rims are no longer available in Au, and stupid price in the UK new.Particularly with the return to the Australian Peso :(

[Outlaw]

Out for a club run a couple weeks back and came across a new rfsv owner from Toowoomba. He'd only bought it a couple weeks earlier at a Minto auction and was loving it. Picked up at a great price, nice bit of kit.

https://scontent-lax1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/p180x540/11782290_10153531752934301_8407153891608668359_o.j pg

https://scontent-lax1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/p180x540/11705530_10153531752919301_3420146600237718020_o.j pg

[Chris078]

No mention of legality in the ADRs. At least, I couldn't find any.
What regulatory authority document can you point us to that states the fitting of tubeless tyres to tubed rims is illegal?


It's been a few years, but in QLD it's something along the lines of using equipment in a manner other than designed etc etc.

Whatever it was, we were able to deny claims and have successfully defended that denial in court.

thinking about it now, one of the ones I remember was an old landrover that rolled at high speed because the tyre came off the rim on a long curve on the highway.

Whatever the case, there are aftermarket rims available of the correct size, bolt pattern and load/speed rating that will take a tubeless rim.

[vgpacer70]

Dan2090 what colour and where did you get paint. Also was it aerosol or spray gun ?

[Paultan]

Had to weld my gear stick back after it came off in my hand!! Looked like it was half off anyway, but went to put it into reverse and voila!!

[BadCo.]

Had to weld my gear stick back after it came off in my hand!! Looked like it was half off anyway, but went to put it into reverse and voila!!

The Army already welded my TC Lever haha

[Dervish]

We've been moving house, which we have all but completed using only two Isuzu-powered Landys. Even SWMBO can't help but love them now.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/356.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Sometime in it's life they put bondo on the chassis and painted it green, but not the original cam green, the lighter moss green. The result was that there were three different greens on the back of the vehicle. Anyway before I got it some of the bondo had cracked and flakes were falling off.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/360.jpg

Yesterday I got into it an removed the bondo with a wire wheel on the grinder, then etch primed the chassis and repainted all the green on the rear.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/361.jpg

[wpalmo]

Needed to add a bit of security to the RFSV as she had no door locks or provision for them. At least it came with an ignition key as I know a lot of the Perentie's don't. I decided to make only the driver side door key operated and the passenger door to be locked from the inside. I made a couple of templates based on the location of the locking barrels in my Series 111 doors as they are identical to the Perentie. Measure twice and cut once was the voice in my head as I drilled a heap of test holes into scrap aluminium sheet. After I was sure of drill size and location I proceeded to drill into the Perentie.

It worked out well and the barrel lined up very nicely to allow the plastic surround to provide the finished appearance. Even though it is a canvas top I some how feel more secure knowing that at least I can lock my doors and keep the honest criminals out!

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/28.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/x5Sr62)

[url=https://flic.kr/p/y2KBCR]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/29.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/x5Sr62)

[url=https://flic.kr/p/x5JkQE]https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/08/30.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/y2KBCR)[url=https://flic.kr/p/x5JkQE]

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Put a For Sale ad on it!

www.aulro.com/~/110 Perentie FFR Sydney Arncliffe NSW (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/military-vehicles-sale/224641-110-perentie-ffr-sydney-arncliffe-nsw.html)

Must get some more recent photos of it. It looked much better at ABD than it did in the Graysonline images.

[BadCo.]

Put a For Sale ad on it!

www.aulro.com/~/110 Perentie FFR Sydney Arncliffe NSW (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/military-vehicles-sale/224641-110-perentie-ffr-sydney-arncliffe-nsw.html)

Must get some more recent photos of it. It looked much better at ABD than it did in the Graysonline images.

You should probably remove those current photos before people read the price tag then look at the photos ;)

And I'm jealous you are upgrading to a PTO!

[dingsy]

You should probably remove those current photos before people read the price tag then look at the photos ;) And I'm jealous you are upgrading to a PTO!
There's a PTO winch for sale on gumtree at the moment if you're after one. A bit pricey though.

[Bearman]

There's a PTO winch for sale on gumtree at the moment if you're after one. A bit pricey though.

But still good value at that price. Try buying one new - you wont get any change from $6000 and that price was about 10 years ago. The winch itself is around 3K and the PTO unit with overload torque limiter assembly is about the same. And don't even try to compare it to an electric one!!! Not in the same street.

[BadCo.]

There's a PTO winch for sale on gumtree at the moment if you're after one. A bit pricey though.

Yeah I have seen it. It would be more cost effective for me to go hydraulic (http://www.firstfour.co.uk/item/2169224/complete-pto-hydraulic-drive-system-for-defender) then to get that PTO sent over here :)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

There's a PTO winch for sale on gumtree at the moment if you're after one. A bit pricey though.Yes, but then the census will be wrong for an FFR with winch. ;)

[Chris078]

Got new tyres and rims fitted. Finally. My old ones were shot. The tyres had started 'egging' on the sidewalls. Then the rim supplier didn't bother to tell my tyre guy that the boat had been delayed a month until we rang asking where the rims were.
My Tyre guy is great though, phoned around stores and found this set of 4 second had ones (used once, guy decided he didn't like the look of them once they had been put on his car apparently:confused:). When the new rims arrive he's going to swap them over and do my spare.

The rims are Dynamic 16x7 +20 1400Kg rated. Tyres are Hankook RF10 235/85r16. After just a small drive home I can tell the difference made is huge, definitely does not wander as much as the old Steeltreks!

[dingsy]

Got new tyres and rims fitted. Finally. My old ones were shot. The tyres had started 'egging' on the sidewalls. Then the rim supplier didn't bother to tell my tyre guy that the boat had been delayed a month until we rang asking where the rims were. My Tyre guy is great though, phoned around stores and found this set of 4 second had ones (used once, guy decided he didn't like the look of them once they had been put on his car apparently:confused:). When the new rims arrive he's going to swap them over and do my spare. The rims are Dynamic 16x6 +20 1400Kg rated. Tyres are Hankook RF10 235/85r16. After just a small drive home I can tell the difference made is huge, definitely does not wander as much as the old Steeltreks!

I have the same wheels (actually the 16x7 ) but use the perentie wheel nuts . Should I change? I hate the look if the nuts that stick out so far though

[Dervish]

I got time today to throw some paint stripper on the bullbar to get it back to bare gal. The job's not finished, but it's looking good.

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad246/OreganoM1/IMG_0534_zpsl42ivktb.jpg

It's so shiny it looks like it was dipped yesterday. I'll have an embarrassing few weeks of a shiny bullbar until it dulls down to match the very dull bare gal Wolf rims. I also dropped some things around at the blasters in preparation for another galvanising run next week (that's why the grille and winch plate are off in the first picture).

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad246/OreganoM1/IMG_0545_zpsstle3vb0.jpg

[Chris078]

I have the same wheels (actually the 16x7 ) but use the perentie wheel nuts . Should I change? I hate the look if the nuts that stick out so far though

Mine are 16x7 too (corrected in my post)
You should definitely change those wheel nuts! This is why you can find threads of people complaining about bad handling after changing rims.


The reason is that the old rims are hub centric, the hub takes the load and centres the wheel. The nuts just hold it to the backplate.

On Dynamic rims, they are lug-centric. The Lugs centre the wheel and take the load. If you look closely, you will see a small gap between the hub and wheel when the Dynamic rim is fitted. If you use the normal nuts, the taper is incorrect, which means the rim can move about on the lug.
This is bad. it's uncomfortable, and very dangerous as it results in broken lugs, wrecked rims and wheels coming off.
First you should go to your tyre guy and question why he set you up in such a dangerous fashion:censored:. Then you should tell him to buy you a set of nuts. These will have the right taper to lock the wheels so they won't move about.

<edit again> just took a new one off my wheel and checked.The nuts are definitely different. The landrover nuts have a 45? rounded taper. The ones supplied by my tyre shop are a 60? flat taper.
I've sent an e-mail to Dynamic for clarification, will post back when I get a reply.

[BadCo.]

This will be good...

[dingsy]

Yeah I've read all the threads regarding hub centric rings etc. my understanding was that the taper on the steel wheels was fine for aftermarket wheels - I even checked with LRA when I bought them.

[Chris078]

Yeah I've read all the threads regarding hub centric rings etc. my understanding was that the taper on the steel wheels was fine for aftermarket wheels - I even checked with LRA when I bought them.

My guy told me that the Land Rover nuts have a 45 degree taper and the Dynamic ones are 60 degree, or the other way round, I forget.
Or he could have just said that to get me to buy $60 worth of nuts......

can anyone chime in with what angle the Landrover taper is?
Might be worth ringing Dynamic directly and finding out from them what taper is required.

<edit> the nut used by my supplier (supposedly a Dynamic nut) and Land Rover nut have a different taper (60? vs 45?). I've sent an e-mail to Dynamic asking them to confirm what angle is correct for the rim.

[Bearman]

Made this up to ensure the rear axle driveshaft on the 6X6 never flies to bits again if/when the centre carrier bearing disintegrates. The bearing is a pillow type and encased in rubber and a flimsy tin housing which bolts to the chassis crossmember. When the bearing seizes it melts the rubber and then the driveshafts flogging around until it breaks the tin casing and then it wobbles big time and destroys itself and anything else in the area. This will ensure it never comes loose even when the bearing seizes. I would advise anyone who has a 6by to check this bearing regularly especially if you have any vibrations in the drivetrain and replace it if necessary. You can separate the bearing from the pillow block and replace it. The bearing number is 88507. Would be worth buying one and keeping it for a spare.

[Bearman]

Here's a pic of what the bearing looks like. You can see how flimsy the tin casing is. That didn't work, I'll try again.

Hopefully I have it this time.

[Barefoot Dave]

Nicew work Brian.
Are you ready for production? I can feel the stampede coming north to your door ;)

[Bearman]

And a shot of it installed. It won't get out of that!!!!!

[Chris078]

My guy told me that the Land Rover nuts have a 45 degree taper and the Dynamic ones are 60 degree, or the other way round, I forget.
Or he could have just said that to get me to buy $60 worth of nuts......

can anyone chime in with what angle the Landrover taper is?
Might be worth ringing Dynamic directly and finding out from them what taper is required.

<edit> the nut used by my supplier (supposedly a Dynamic nut) and Land Rover nut have a different taper (60 degree vs 45 degree). I've sent an e-mail to Dynamic asking them to confirm what angle is correct for the rim.


EDIT: Heard back from Dynamic. 60 degree taper on the wheel nut is required to secure Dynamic steel rims properly. 45 degree Landie nuts will hold them (sort of) but will not be 100% secure and will damage the rim.

edit, this site does not like the degree symbol and kept putting a ? instead

[Dervish]

I picked up the galvanising I dropped off last week. This is the first run I've done in QLD and I was impressed by the standard of work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/357.jpg

[Bearman]

I picked up the galvanising I dropped off last week. This is the first run I've done in QLD and I was impressed by the standard of work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/357.jpg

Nice job, what about the shock towers - you should have included those, they are notorious for rusting as the water stays in the recess in the top where the shockie bolts in.

[BadCo.]

You tell him that afterwards!

Hey, did the firewall warp at all?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Dervish]

Nice job, what about the shock towers - you should have included those, they are notorious for rusting as the water stays in the recess in the top where the shockie bolts in.

I'll put them through next batch, I didn't think they were so unreliable. I have a list I'm very slowly working through and they are on it. I expect trying to work up the intestinal fortitude to deskin the doors and galvanise the frames is a way off yet though.


You tell him that afterwards!

Hey, did the firewall warp at all?


It did, where they all do; it got a bit wavy across where the main wiring loom grommet goes and the tops of the footwells. These are also conveniently the places that can't be seen once installed. Thankfully this bulkhead already had the 'Army fix' on the bottoms of the footwells - the troublesome double skinned part cut out and replaced with 2mm sheet. Gotta love that.

For the record, it was not braced at all as I'd read that the mobs that sell gal bulkheads in the UK don't brace them. The only thing I did was leave an instruction that it shouldn't be quenched, which I have no way of knowing whether they followed or not. The measurement across the chassis mount holes is unchanged, and it sits level.

[BadCo.]

So in other words it warped where you can't see it and it doesn't affect the function of it. Good to know.

What do you mean by quench?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Dervish]

What do you mean by quench?


After they dip the steel into the molten zinc, they bring it out and dip it into some kind of light oil to cool it quickly (that's quenching). Occasionally you'll pick up a freshly galvanised piece to load it and a bit of the oil will run out. I don't suppose it is for any kind of heat treatment of the coating and is probably just so they can handle the pieces without waiting for them to cool and get them out of the way quickly.

The quick cooling of the steel is - anecdotally - what causes warping. I'm no metallurgist though.

[Mick_Marsh]

The quick cooling of the steel is - anecdotally - what causes warping. I'm no metallurgist though.
It's actually the temperature gradient that causes warping. When there is a significant temperature difference between two near points on a steel sheet.


If you can cool the steel evenly, no warping.

[Bearman]

Well I finally got around to installing the tacho, boost and egt gauges and couldn't wait to play with the fuel screw. 1/2 turn out saw a considerable improvement in performance so I went a bit more and made it a full turn. Noticeable improvement in pickup and boost will now go up to 13psi without any increase in egt's. Will even accellerate going up a reasonable hill now. Don't think I will bother going down the path of intercooler and turbo upgrade. Still may go to 4.1 diff ratios tho. I think the tacho is pretty accurate, showing about 3000rpm @100K. Will be interesting to see if it affects the fuel economy - I have a big trip on next week, will find out then!

[rar110]

Nice job, what about the shock towers - you should have included those, they are notorious for rusting as the water stays in the recess in the top where the shockie bolts in.

Like you say Brian, the shock towers are a rust risk. I galed mine. However they hung them by a bolt hole at the base up side down so at an angle, which meant there was an angled chunk of gal that settled inside at the top where the rubber bush sits.

I had to get it ground down on a lathe.

But not a sign of rust.

[Bearman]

Like you say Brian, the shock towers are a rust risk. I galed mine. However they hung them by a bolt hole at the base up side down so at an angle, which meant there was an angled chunk of gal that settled inside at the top where the rubber bush sits.

I had to get it ground down on a lathe.

But not a sign of rust.

Exactly the same thing happened with the ones on my old 4x4 when they galled them. They must hang them at an angle when they come out of the dip.

[paulak]

Gday,
I just fitted power steering.
Does a Defender steering wheel fit?
Paul.

[Mick_Marsh]

I broke it.
The electrics are dead.

Quite a productive day, I thought. Job was done really quickly. A matter of seconds.

Now for the non productive part. Fixing it. Could take hours, days, weeks.

[LandroverScott]

I broke it.
The electrics are dead.

Quite a productive day, I thought. Job was done really quickly. A matter of seconds.

Now for the non productive part. Fixing it. Could take hours, days, weeks.

Whoops!

[rar110]

Gday, I just fitted power steering. Does a Defender steering wheel fit? Paul.

AFAIK no. The spline on the hard steering wheel is different to the newer 200/300tdi steering wheel. You need to change the shaft too. The spline at the steering uni end is the same.

[BadCo.]

I broke it.
The electrics are dead.

Quite a productive day, I thought. Job was done really quickly. A matter of seconds.

Now for the non productive part. Fixing it. Could take hours, days, weeks.

What happened?

[Mick_Marsh]

What happened?
Nothing. There's the problem.
Went for a spin to Gav's last night. Went well. A mate passed me going up some hills and (the next day) told me it was rocketing along rather well.
This morning I jumped in the cab, rotated the ignition switch. The starter motor sounded as if it was in it's second oscillation, then dead.
I tried pushing that battery guard thing a few times but no joy. I can get it flashing but nothing else.
Battery was just under 13v so it is on charge now.

[mick88]

What are the oil change intervals for a Perentie donk!
What kays are people doing between changes?


Cheers, Mick

[Bearman]

10K is the normal Mick, but I change mine every 5K.

[mick88]

10K is the normal Mick, but I change mine every 5K.


Thanks Bearman.
Do you change the filter at 5K too!


Cheers, Mick.

[Bearman]

Filters at 10K Mick.

[BadCo.]

10K is the normal Mick, but I change mine every 5K.

I've barely done 5k in the year I have owned it. Whats the alternative time frame? 6 months or 12 months?

[Bearman]

I'd go 12 with your mild climate!

[BadCo.]

I'd go 12 with your mild climate!

Haha fair call. 12 months is what I have done so far.

[TK_Co]

I picked up the galvanising I dropped off last week. This is the first run I've done in QLD and I was impressed by the standard of work.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/357.jpg

Hello,

Do you mine me asking how much it cost??

Regards,
Tristan H

[Dervish]

Hello,

Do you mine me asking how much it cost??

Regards,
Tristan H

The pricing structure is $2.10/kg, minimum charge $150 (Industrial Galvanisers in Pinkenba). The minimum charge equates to about 71kg and this lot was 68kg, so I paid $150. It beats stuffing around with paint any day.

[samuelwest]

With an account it is a lot cheaper, i pay $2kg for trailers and $1.47kg for all other items in mackay and thats including shipping to Townsville and back

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[Chris078]

That's really cheap!
It's actually $165 down here, unless I got overcharged when I took my stuff to the same place.
The good news I suppose is that you can get quite a few things done with a total weight less than 75 kg (not all of us are going to be removing firewalls!)
The bad news is if you have only a couple of things, you are still paying that $165.

[Dervish]

That's really cheap!
It's actually $165 down here, unless I got overcharged when I took my stuff to the same place.

Ahh yes; minimum charge is $150, but the gov't still takes their cut.

[Chris078]

I spent money on it.:p

This week I have fitted; new Steering damper, front brake calipers, front brake flex hoses, front brake pads, new tie rods ends (3 of), new pitman arm and ball joint, new rear brake flex hose and new a fame ball joint.

I cannot even begin to describe the difference! :D
The steering is light and direct, no more wandering and the feedback is informative rather than trying to break your fingers.

It stops in a straight line (I had sticking left caliper) and the brake pedal actually has feel in it. New pads still need to bed in, hopefully in 100 or so kms it will start to pull up faster.

The rear end feels stable instead of flopping around on the worn out ball joint.

It's amazing, it actually feels (and I can't believe I'm going to say this) like a car instead of some farm machinery.

Very happy, money well spent.
:burnrubber:

[Bearman]

Fitted a detroit locker and free wheeling hubs to the rear axle today. The rear shaft and carrier bearing should last a long time now! Nipped up the wheel bearings while I was at it, they were a bit loose. Also fitted the APT diff cover. Now have to do the intermediate axle - probably on Monday.:)

[TK_Co]

Fitted a detroit locker and free wheeling hubs to the rear axle today. The rear shaft and carrier bearing should last a long time now! Nipped up the wheel bearings while I was at it, they were a bit loose. Also fitted the APT diff cover. Now have to do the intermediate axle - probably on Monday.:)

Someone promised photos !!?? 😛

[Bearman]

Someone promised photos !!?? 😛

Coming, coming - nothing moves too fast around here!!

[Bearman]

OK I finally got around to getting the pics!!:D

[paulak]

I broke something.
My L plate daughter took off with some energetic bunny hopping.
Then "bang" and no drive.
I put the centre diff lock in and now have rear wheel drive.
No grinding or crunching can be heard.
Drove 500km home like this.
Will start looking into it tomorrow.
Any ideas where to start?
Thanks.
Paul.

[BadCo.]

I broke something.
My L plate daughter took off with some energetic bunny hopping.
Then "bang" and no drive.
I put the centre diff lock in and now have rear wheel drive.
No grinding or crunching can be heard.
Drove 500km home like this.
Will start looking into it tomorrow.
Any ideas where to start?
Thanks.
Paul.

TC front output shaft? I've done the rear first time out in the forest. I also had a bang and then no drive without CDL.

[JDNSW]

I'd be checking the front diff, axles and CVs before looking at the transfer case. Jack one front wheel and spin it, see if the prop shaft moves.

John

[Bearman]

I broke something.
My L plate daughter took off with some energetic bunny hopping.
Then "bang" and no drive.
I put the centre diff lock in and now have rear wheel drive.
No grinding or crunching can be heard.
Drove 500km home like this.
Will start looking into it tomorrow.
Any ideas where to start?
Thanks.
Paul.

Most likely in the front diff or halfshafts. Unlock the centre diff and put it in gear and have a look at the front driveshaft. If it's turning it won't be in the centre diff or output shafts and you can concentrate on the front diff. You have to split it at both swivel housings to get the axles out of the diff centre so you can remove it to check if it's the diff centre or axle halfshaft. Also could be a CV but they are pretty strong in this model and the axle or diff centre usually let go before a CV. Have fun!!

[Bearman]

I'd be checking the front diff, axles and CVs before looking at the transfer case. Jack one front wheel and spin it, see if the prop shaft moves.

John

Thanks John, you are too quick on the keys for me!!

[paulak]

Thanks for the replies.
With CDL out the front prop shaft spins.
Will investigate diff, axles cv's tomoorrow.
Paul.

[paulak]

Gday,
Neither front wheels spin the front drive shaft.
Turning the front drive shaft by hand turns the rear drive shaft.
So gear box ok.
Probably axles & cv's ok ?
Just leaves a diff problem i guess ?
Paul.

[paulak]

Gday,
Also noticed while car is up in the air,
my 255/85R16 spare is acting as a 3rd rear bump stop.
Paul.

[paulak]

Thats on the diff centre.
Paul.

[Dervish]

Gday,
Neither front wheels spin the front drive shaft.
Turning the front drive shaft by hand turns the rear drive shaft.
So gear box ok.
Probably axles & cv's ok ?
Just leaves a diff problem i guess ?
Paul.

Are you jacking up one wheel at a time or is that with both wheels in the air? If both wheels are in the air, make sure the one you aren't spinning is held still.


Gday,
Also noticed while car is up in the air,
my 255/85R16 spare is acting as a 3rd rear bump stop.
Paul.

I'm cringing. I hope it never gets used as a bump stop in anger, just like I cringe when anyone jacks a vehicle up on the diff pumpkin.

[BadCo.]

Gday,
Also noticed while car is up in the air,
my 255/85R16 spare is acting as a 3rd rear bump stop.
Paul.

This had me thinking, so I went and checked mine and it also rubs on two tread blocks. Also 255/85 BFGs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/909.jpg



... just like I cringe when anyone jacks a vehicle up on the diff pumpkin.

Maybe the front diff, but wouldn't it be alright with the Salisbury? Not that I do it, of course.

[Chris078]

Went for a drive out to Wivenhoe Dam a couple of days ago. Still getting used to how the car feels on the new tires and the other work done. Basically have to relearn how to drive it!

Travelled just over 400km that day, all highway at 90-100km/hr apart from a couple of sections where they are redoing the road (down to 60).
Returned a remarkable 8.7l per 100km! I used to get 10.1 on a mix of 80% town 20% highway, new tires dropped that to 9.9 per 100.
This is the first purely highway run that I have measured. I have to say I am very happy with the fuel economy of the beast! :D

Imgur photo album (https://imgur.com/gallery/3qaHm/new)

edit. Dam is full! amazing difference to the last time I was there in the middle of the drought!

[paulak]

Gday,
I have drained diff oil - no metal.
Looking in the level hole and spinning LHS wheel results in a gear moving on LHS of diff and what looks like RHS axle moving in diff. but no RHS wheel moving.
Spinning RHS wheel results in nothing moving.
So i guess its the drivers side.
Paul.

[JDNSW]

Gday,
I have drained diff oil - no metal.
Looking in the level hole and spinning LHS wheel results in a gear moving on LHS of diff and what looks like RHS axle moving in diff. but no RHS wheel moving.
Spinning RHS wheel results in nothing moving.
So i guess its the drivers side.
Paul.

With luck it will be the drive flange - but I'll bet it is the CV joint, or possibly the axle shaft.

John

[paulak]

Gday,
I might need to start a new thread.
The axle won't come out of the diff.
I pulled it that hard (hammer) that i got the first half out with the cv.
The inner half shaft isnt budging.
It can turn but wont come out.
I have undone the ball joint and am using it as a slide hammer - nothing.
Help.
I have seen the youtube toolbox video so i know how easy it should be.
Thanks.
Paul.

[BadCo.]

I did a compression test today.

#1 340 psi
#2 320 psi
#3 360 psi
#4 360 psi

Apparently that's a good result, so next thing to do is get the injectors serviced.

[mudmouse]

Bought something on ebay (in Melbourne) just after lunch on Saturday. Checked the greasable, oily, coolant and rubbery bits. Loaded the engine hoist and left home (NSW Central Coast) about 2.00pm, got to Seymour about 1.00am (did some wandering on the way down). Had a camp and left about 7.00am to find the seller near Melbourne CBD, then loaded my gear (a lathe) and headed back home about 11.15am. I was in the driveway by 11.20pm.

All up 2,017km's with a freeway speed of 90-100kph, temp. 82-85 degrees, averaged 10.2 km's per litre - had about 400kg in the back.

Not a drop of oil, not a drip of coolant, not a puncture (Steel Treks at 250/400kpa loaded), and never put a spanner to it.

What a vehicle.

[spie]

[Yesterday]: Installed the new canvas - No more raining on the inside :)

[mattmac]

Drove the GS up to Melbourne yesterday and as usual didn't miss a beat but not long after filling up at United Fuel in Highett she started running really rough like air in the fuel and then just cut out completely. Had to push the beast off the side the road- i was thinking must be bad fuel but had forgotten to bring my tools so couldn't do much at all- decided to just prime the hand pump on lift pump for a bit and then got her firing again and ran fine until i almost got back home before the same thing happened again. After getting her home and tools at hand i cleaned the sedimenter which wasn't too bad and fuel that came out was pretty clean- then removed the small plastic inline filter under lift pump and found the culprit- was blocked up to the max -amazing any fuel could get past it - was basically a plug of black putty inside it! I guess the army mechanics bypass that part of the maintenance procedure! It's actually not hard to remove and you don't even need to get under the vehicle -it's easier to do it from above -took me all of about 10 mins.

[Bearman]

Drove the GS up to Melbourne yesterday and as usual didn't miss a beat but not long after filling up at United Fuel in Highett she started running really rough like air in the fuel and then just cut out completely. Had to push the beast off the side the road- i was thinking must be bad fuel but had forgotten to bring my tools so couldn't do much at all- decided to just prime the hand pump on lift pump for a bit and then got her firing again and ran fine until i almost got back home before the same thing happened again. After getting her home and tools at hand i cleaned the sedimenter which wasn't too bad and fuel that came out was pretty clean- then removed the small plastic inline filter under lift pump and found the culprit- was blocked up to the max -amazing any fuel could get past it - was basically a plug of black putty inside it! I guess the army mechanics bypass that part of the maintenance procedure! It's actually not hard to remove and you don't even need to get under the vehicle -it's easier to do it from above -took me all of about 10 mins.

Diesel snot - I would drain the tanks and inspect!

[mattmac]

I think you might be right because it happened again this arvo-will be draining the tank asap to see what comes out.
Diesel snot - I would drain the tanks and inspect!

[Gordie]

Diesel algae bug....my trucks used to suffer from it, be doing 100kph and they would just come to a grinding halt. Moisture in fuel tank, can even be picked up from a servo with moisture in their tank, or the nozzle of a pump that has been in contaminated fuel. It lives in the interface between water and fuel.


Once I installed Racor water separator pre filters, and put a treatment in my fuel, problem was solved.

[mick88]

Have had the same thing happen to our diesel tractors.
Try to keep the tanks full all the time now to minimize the chances of it happening again.
Dam inconvenience when it does happen.


Cheers, Mick.

[mattmac]

I drained sedimenter again today and was clean , then i drained the tank and that was clean but when i checked the liltle plastic filter below lift pump it was chock full of black gunk again which had me confused as I'd cleaned it out a couple of days before. I could only think the rubber fuel hose just befor the lift pump could be perishing internally? Anyway, i decided to replace it just to be safe and changed primary fuel filter as well. Hopefully that solves the problem!
I think you might be right because it happened again this arvo-will be draining the tank asap to see what comes out.

[Gordie]

I drained sedimenter again today and was clean , then i drained the tank and that was clean but when i checked the liltle plastic filter below lift pump it was chock full of black gunk again which had me confused as I'd cleaned it out a couple of days before. I could only think the rubber fuel hose just befor the lift pump could be perishing internally? Anyway, i decided to replace it just to be safe and changed primary fuel filter as well. Hopefully that solves the problem!
Diesel fuel algae. Will keep happening until you put a treatment for it in tank. Not sure what they use here, used to use a product by 'power up' ex Canada, when I was afflicted by it in NZ.

[Chris078]

then removed the small plastic inline filter under lift pump and found the culprit- was blocked up to the max -amazing any fuel could get past it - was basically a plug of black putty inside it!

Anyone have a photo of where this filter is located?
I can't seem to find a reference for it in the service manual, and I don't want to start taking random fittings off the pump!

[BadCo.]

Its under the fuel pump inside the front drivers side engine mount, you will need a stubby 17mm spanner. Good luck!

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Aussie Jeepster]

100755
Is it in this diagram, or am I missing it?

[BadCo.]

100755
Is it in this diagram, or am I missing it?

Yup, number 16. Number 17 is the 17mm bolt. Its tiny, I was surprised how small it is. It sits inside the number 17 bolt.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Wow, tiny little thing. When I'm mobile again, that will be something I'll do - just getting over hip replacement surgery:(

[BadCo.]

Wow, tiny little thing. When I'm mobile again, that will be something I'll do - just getting over hip replacement surgery:(

Yup, tiny but it catches a lot.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/519.jpg

[Aussie Jeepster]

So when I remove this, is diesel going to go everywhere and keep coming out?

[BadCo.]

So when I remove this, is diesel going to go everywhere and keep coming out?

Nah, just a little bit that is stored in the lines. You might have to prime it and bleed it though. Or you might be lucky and it'll start anyway.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Thanks - at last an easy, (but fiddly) job!!

[BadCo.]

It took me a few attempts and some Facebook advice to get it the first time.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Phil B]

The front suspension on 48-749 had stared to knock when changing direction. After some searching here I decided to check shock mounts, radius arm bushes and panhard arm bushes.
All the rubber bits were in good shape but a couple of the bolts were less than fully tight.
After tightening them all with a long (600mm) power bar the knock has disappeared.:D


Also decided to change all the hub drive flanges. The backlash was not bad but now that I have changed them there is none at all. Very pleased.
I could only get standard ones not HD as the HD Defender ones don't fit.
All in all a pleasing Sunday's work!!!

[Lotz-A-Landies]

...

Also decided to change all the hub drive flanges. The backlash was not bad but now that I have changed them there is none at all. Very pleased.
I could only get standard ones not HD as the HD Defender ones don't fit.
All in all a pleasing Sunday's work!!!Couldn't get HD flanges for a 110?

Did you try Hi-Tough (formerly MaxiDrive), the 110/County/Perentie have a spline length 5mm longer than the splines on the Defender 300Tdi.

The Hi Tough Engineering part number for the Perentie drive flanges is HTE-5806 and is a direct replacement for the OEM part.

(The late Defender flanges are HTE-589 or if you have the corresponding X HTE axles which have 10mm longer spline use the HTE-589X flanges)

[Phil B]

Couldn't get HD flanges for a 110?

Did you try Hi-Tough (formerly MaxiDrive), the 110/County/Perentie have a spline length 5mm longer than the splines on the Defender 300Tdi.

The Hi Tough Engineering part number for the Perentie drive flanges is HTE-5806 and is a direct replacement for the OEM part.

(The late Defender flanges are HTE-589 or if you have the corresponding X HTE axles which have 10mm longer spline HTE-589X)



Thanks Lotsa,


I didn't try them directly but was told by two suppliers "no stock-3 months backorder"
I'll contact them directly out of interest.
Regards,

[BadCo.]

Thanks Lotsa,


I didn't try them directly but was told by two suppliers "no stock-3 months backorder"
I'll contact them directly out of interest.
Regards,

There is also maxi drive from M R Auto

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Lotz-A-Landies]

There is also maxi drive from M R Auto

I think you will find that MR Automotive/Les Richmond etc, use Hi-Tough axles and drive flanges. MR have the licence for Maxi-Drive diffs and other MD products but not the axles/flanges

[BadCo.]

I think you will find that MR Automotive/Les Richmond etc, use Hi-Tough axles and drive flanges. MR have the licence for Maxi-Drive diffs and other MD products but not the axles/flanges

From my emails to them I was under the impression that they did the axles and flanges as well, even in a kit with the diff lock.

But as you say, they may be Hi-Tuff. Interestingly the prices between the two were different.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

From my emails to them I was under the impression that they did the axles and flanges as well, even in a kit with the diff lock.

But as you say, they may be Hi-Tuff. Interestingly the prices between the two were different.It would be a sad day indeed if Mal Story were to sell the axle/flange part of the Maxi-Drive business to Barry Ward (HTE) and turn around a couple of years later and sell the same part of the M-D business to MR Automotive.

[Chris078]

Wow, tiny little thing. When I'm mobile again, that will be something I'll do - just getting over hip replacement surgery:(

It looks rather awkward to get to; probably not something you want to do with a freshly replaced hip!

Hope your recovery goes smoothly.

[tiny1aus]

Hi 303 gunner,

I realise that without changing gears it won't turn any faster, but I'm hoping with the peek torque being bought down lower, I won't need to ride the clutch to take off. :) as for the noise, I'm hoping to put some sound deadening into it. And as for the ride, I'm researching kinetic suspension. It was developed by a chap in dunsborough, southwest WA. They have used the concept in the land cruiser Sahara and prado kakadu

As for the gearing figures if the transfer case I'm going to double check with the transmission people today and get some clarification so thanks for your advise.
Hi Tk Co . You have some interesting mods. Hope they go well.
In regard to your previous post above, have you researched the Kinetic suspension situation and can shed some light or point me towards other info please. on this forum or other. I have learnt they are Monroe. i am very interested in this for my Perentie also. Thanking you in advance.

[Bush Animal]

A couple of weeks ago I was messing around with my Perentie and my grandson was helping me,he had some super cheap export tyre cleaner doing my tyres.A bit of over spray got on the guard I didn't,t bother getting it off a few days later I finally wiped it off it left a nice sheen not to shiny just took off that dead flat finish.I know it's a personal choice wether u like dead flat or a bit of a sheen.Just thought you blokes might be interested in it that's all. Cheers Bushy

[wpalmo]

Picked up a partner for my RFSV, ARN 154912 No 5 Trailer. Planning on doing a few simple mods like a spare wheel carrier on the draw bar and a mount for the tinnie and then looking forward to doing a bit of touring in the near future.

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/37.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Wow, tiny little thing. When I'm mobile again, that will be something I'll do - just getting over hip replacement surgery:(It looks rather awkward to get to; probably not something you want to do with a freshly replaced hip!

Hope your recovery goes smoothly.Maybe you want to retrofit air suspension to the Perentie, then the 110 can drop down to access height for you to get in instead of climbing up to the Perentie! ;)

[BadCo.]

Maybe you want to retrofit air suspension to the Perentie, then the 110 can drop down to access height for you to get in instead of climbing up to the Perentie! ;)

Nah just take the wheels of and lower it on blocks

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[robbo247]

Warrick, great looking setup..looks cool...

hopefully I can get a no 5 trailer soon

robbo:)

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Picked up a partner for my RFSV, ARN 154912 No 5 Trailer. Planning on doing a few simple mods like a spare wheel carrier on the draw bar and a mount for the tinnie and then looking forward to doing a bit of touring in the near future.

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/37.jpgIs that one of the trailers Brian B brought over from Sydney?

[mattmac]

Did a couple of things on the perentie yesterday -adjusted the handbrake which had been much too loose and kept sticking-easy job made a lot easier by removing centre base between seats to access the adjusting nuts.The other issue i really wanted to tackle was my dodgy fuel gauge- Checked connections on sender on tank and seemed fine- then checked the connections on back of gauge- managed to break off one of the plastic light globe holders on back of speedo in the process of removing the instrument panel-very annoying! Anyway no loose connections there -must be the sender unit itself which is a bummer as had hoped for an easy/cheap fix!

[mick88]

Picked up a partner for my RFSV, ARN 154912 No 5 Trailer. Planning on doing a few simple mods like a spare wheel carrier on the draw bar and a mount for the tinnie and then looking forward to doing a bit of touring in the near future.

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/37.jpg

What diameter rims and what profile are the tires on your rig?
Looks a nice machine!


Cheers, Mick.

[wpalmo]

Is that one of the trailers Brian B brought over from Sydney?

Yes it is one of Brian's. He told me that he picked up this one and a few others from Brisbane I think.
Regards Warrick.

[wpalmo]

What diameter rims and what profile are the tires on your rig?
Looks a nice machine!


Cheers, Mick.

Hi Mick,

Wolf rims with 255/85/16 BF Goodrich Mud Terrain. Very happy with the set up. I will be putting them on the Number 5 trailer too. Keep everything the same diameter and that way have more spares for the RFSV if the going gets really tough.

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/60.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/vPymzQ)IMG_2038 (https://flic.kr/p/vPymzQ) by warrick palmateer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/warrickpalmateer/), on Flickr

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Yes it is one of Brian's. He told me that he picked up this one and a few others from Brisbane I think.
Regards Warrick.Not sure about any from Brisbane, I know there were 5 from Sydney that I had my grubby hands on until he could come over and pick them up. IIRC there were also several from Townsville and recently at least one from Darwin.

[Mick_Marsh]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/10/37.jpg
You'll have to splash a bit of that red oxide on that trailer.

[wpalmo]

You'll have to splash a bit of that red oxide on that trailer.

Robbo on the forum scored some of the red oxide (Pibara Red) I believe. Not sure what the code is but I think he has the original colour in spray cans sourced from somewhere in WA. It has run through my mind to paint the black out in the Pilbara Red.

I have been told that there may be some No5's coming to the next Frontline Perth auction. It has been rumored for some time now but hasn't eventuated. Does anyone know if any No5's were painted up for the Pilbara Fleet in the red oxide colour? Not sure if they were used with the RFSV's out of Port Hedland. Hopefully if they did have them they will find their way down to Perth for auction at some point in time.

Regards Warrick.

[jet]

Back in the 80,s i use to build no 5 trailer,s in the ordnance factory in Victoria i did my apprenticeship there as a boilermaker i use to remember the paint shop painting some up with a bit of red on them depending on what the army wanted at the time.

Im sure they stopped making trailer,s around 1984 as the contract was handed over to another manufacturer.

I made all the Assembly jigs for the no 5 trailers and also the old flatbar bull bars on early army land rovers.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Hi Jet

One question I've always wondered is about the half ton workshop platform trailers. The platforms were made by Pressed Metals Corp in Sydney, but did they also make the chassis, or were they made at GOF?

Diana

[juddy]

Trying out a new camo pattern.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1012.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Landybitz/Screen%20Shot%202015-11-02%20at%204.42.51%20pm_zpslvweodyv.png.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1013.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Landybitz/Screen%20Shot%202015-11-02%20at%204.43.03%20pm_zpsyckx1tts.png.html)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/11/1014.jpg (http://s856.photobucket.com/user/juddyburton/media/Landybitz/Screen%20Shot%202015-11-02%20at%204.44.13%20pm_zps8w6i9yek.png.html)

[TK_Co]

What diameter rims and what profile are the tires on your rig?
Looks a nice machine!


Cheers, Mick.

It is a nice machine !!!! The best I've seen. If you give it a wash its showroom condition !!!! No scratches, no dents underneath. It's just perfect !!

[TK_Co]

Robbo on the forum scored some of the red oxide (Pibara Red) I believe. Not sure what the code is but I think he has the original colour in spray cans sourced from somewhere in WA. It has run through my mind to paint the black out in the Pilbara Red.

Regards Warrick.

Protec in Welshpool sell the Pilbara red. Just not in aerosol packs. :(

[robbo247]

Huecoat paints at 49 PRINDIVILLE DRIVE,WANGARA mixed the pilbara red for
me with a sample part, from the perentie vehicle, they now have the code on their computers based on my sample and dont need any more matching... they got it matched good.....prior I went to protec welshpool, but they never had the codes or the pilbara red....and needed a sample colour to compare and mix/test/try.. I went to wangara in the end as they were closer and a protec dealer anyway.


thanks robbo:)

[normie]

If you decide to buy a combination pintle hook and ball you have to take into account that if you use existing mount its a long way off the ground
but there is an upside if you are launching a boat just undo the shackle and the boat will launch itself :p

[Bearman]

Finally got around to making a decent towbar for Brutus, my 6X6. Used a s/h towbar from a Nissan Patrol coil cab ute :o (hush my mouth) that I purchased at the local dump shop. Had to cut and mod it a bit but it's all done now. I think it will handle a bit of stump pulling and towing the Sharkcat :) Tomorrow I have to fit the wiring for the 7 pin connector and it's all done.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Finally got around to making a decent towbar for Brutus, my 6X6. Used a s/h towbar from a Nissan Patrol coil cab ute :o (hush my mouth) that I purchased at the local dump shop. Had to cut and mod it a bit but it's all done now. I think it will handle a bit of stump pulling and towing the Sharkcat :) Tomorrow I have to fit the wiring for the 7 pin connector and it's all done.
First up will be a trip to the bolt shop for some longer bolts then? :wasntme:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[Bearman]

First up will be a trip to the bolt shop for some longer bolts then? :wasntme:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/101764d1447145147-what-did-you-do-your-perentie-today-100_1170.jpg"

Ha Ha, I knew someone would pick that up. Going into town this morning and have a trip to the bolt shop planned! I had a rummage around through my spare tin of bolts when I fitted it and the only ones I could find weren't plated or the correct grade. While I am there I will get a couple of links for the pto chain and modify that in the near future while I am checking the intermediate shaft and adding a 1 piece shaft setup to the centre diff.:D

[123rover50]

Today I changed the engine oil.
While I was under there I took a pic of the gearbox showing the clearance the Isuzu hydraulic pump has from the chassis rails.
I seem to remember someone commenting on that once.

Has anyone seen a complete front axle assembly for a 6x6 come up for sale in the auctions?
If so how much do they bring?
I would like to buy a spare to strengthen up without taking this truck off the road and swap over later on.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Today I changed the engine oil.
While I was under there I took a pic of the gearbox showing the clearance the Isuzu hydraulic pump has from the chassis rails.
I seem to remember someone commenting on that once.

Has anyone seen a complete front axle assembly for a 6x6 come up for sale in the auctions?
If so how much do they bring?
I would like to buy a spare to strengthen up without taking this truck off the road and swap over later on.

There are a bunch of front axles on AFM now - condition unknown!

[123rover50]

Thanks, whats AFM?
Got a link?

[rar110]

Thanks, whats AFM? Got a link?

http://www.graysonline.com/sale/5016378/transport-trucks-and-trailers/unreserved-ex-military-tractors-doze-trucks-water-purification-land-rovers-trailers-parts'spr=true

[123rover50]

Wow:o Thanks, I never got on to that before.
I am tempted to bid on a few bits.
Funny how some lots are getting lots of bid and others not when they look the same thing.

What do they mean when they say the crate has to be removed?

[Phil B]

Wow:o Thanks, I never got on to that before.
I am tempted to bid on a few bits.
Funny how some lots are getting lots of bid and others not when they look the same thing.

What do they mean when they say the crate has to be removed?



Buyer beware. The units are used and there is no guarantee that they actually work !! You can inspect the units and ones that look in better condition will usually go for more money.
They mean that if you win the part you have to take the packing case it comes in as well.


Good luck !!

[123rover50]

Ah, got it. Thats OK stops the bits rattling around in the trailer.
Bit hard to inspect from up here but if the price is right it may be worth a trip.
Thanks.
Keith

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Today I picked up my new Perentie after having an ignition key steering lock and PAS fitted.

The seats in this one are different to the Isri seats in 48-852 but more comfortable.

[jskerm]

Picked mine up last night and today gave it a better grip on Australia. Almost like these things were built for 285's!

[jskerm]

Also realised it had a very fitting rego number for a 110!

[mick88]

Picked mine up last night and today gave it a better grip on Australia. Almost like these things were built for 285's!




Have you fitted power steering?


Cheers, Mick.

[mick88]

Why is it that AFM have power steering pumps advertised in their catalogue?
Did some of the vehicles used by the army have power steering?
Cheers, Mick

[Bearman]

Why is it that AFM have power steering pumps advertised in their catalogue?
Did some of the vehicles used by the army have power steering?
Cheers, Mick

RFSV's and 6X6 Mick

[jskerm]

Have you fitted power steering?




No, really havn't missed it either. I may get to it one day but I think a turbo will be next on the list. Not that it really needs that either, i can't believe how much torque these things have. I will be doing a bit of towing with it so a turbo can't hurt..

[Aussie Jeepster]

I'm finally happy with storing "stuff" in the back of my Perentie for when I go away.
The large middle spacecase carries basic camping stuff, while the case on the right has tools, spares etc in it, and the spacecase on the left has the food in it.
My Engel will go on the floor whan I go away.
I have a Codan HF mounted behind the passenger seat and a small lithium jumpstart pack behind the driver seat.
I also discovered that if you take out the bolts holding the seats into the back, and screw them in from below, Bunnings have nice little 8mm thread securing eyes that screw over them perfectly.
Whilst the Spacecases may look like they can be removed, they will be secured very well in the next few days which means anyone who wants them will have to work VERY hard to remove them!

[Aussie Jeepster]

I've also wired in a solar input point at the back which trickle charges the main and aux batteries if the vehicle is sitting for a while at home. I have a 12v solar panel on the roof of the car port which I plug in. So far, I've not forgotten to unplug it when I've driven off!!!!

[Aussie Jeepster]

And today, I finished it all off with a Redarc Solar regulator.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Washed it, maybe for last time. :BigCry:

[wpalmo]

Washed it, maybe for last time. :BigCry:

Are you selling your Perentie?

[mattmac]

Anyone out there converted their perentie to a full length hardtop using a 2 door defender hardtop?

[Best 4x4xFar]

Switched over the pintle to a combination pintle/ball hitch.
Just need to sort out an adaptor from the NATO plug to 7 pin & can tow anything :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/1.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/2.jpg
Hi I was just wandering where you purchased the tow hitch from?

[BadCo.]

That was over two and a half years ago haha

You can get them on eBay and probably any 4x4 shop.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Best 4x4xFar]

Paid for it so 48 964 will be heading west to Kalgoorlie on Monday morning. I hope there are no issues to fix first
Hope you had no dramas, please advise of what you had to do to get your landy over the pits and who is the best person to take it to in Kal

[Landybitz]

Anyone out there converted their perentie to a full length hardtop using a 2 door defender hardtop?

Is that a E11 AU Rated ball and Pin?

[jskerm]

Made a towbar for it. Old defender wagon towbar with a bit of modifying.

[jskerm]

Now to put it to work!

[Corgie Carrier]

Where are you situated?

Hope you had a better harvest than we did here.

One guy promised us heaps of work, then ran the header around the paddock and all he got was one field bin full :-( and like most of it, it went feed 3.

[jskerm]

Where are you situated?

Hope you had a better harvest than we did here.

One guy promised us heaps of work, then ran the header around the paddock and all he got was one field bin full :-( and like most of it, it went feed 3.

Havn't struck a blow yet. Harvester turning up tomorrow and straight into the Barley. Hoping for 4 tonnes but not holding my breath. I'm at Hexham, 60 km nth of Warrnambool.

[jskerm]

Whoever said Perenties were no good for towing was dreaming!

[87County]

Whoever said Perenties were no good for towing was dreaming!

ahhh... harvest time :), so where is the header that usually tows the comb trailer ?-pulling the Perentie ? :)

[paulak]

Gday ,
After 3000 km on my new Terrafirma springs, I thought the car looked a bit "down".
Paul.

[Chris078]

Installed some formshield (http://www.clarkrubber.com.au/formshield-10mm-wide-black.html)I got from clark rubber under the floor mats.
I bought 2m which was enough for a full double layer up to the bottom of the dash on the passenger side and a double layer on the floor only on the drivers side (had enough to do a full length, but I couldn't depress the clutch all the way, so had to trim them short)
I have to say, it made a remarkable difference in both heat and noise.

It's no church, but 100 kph is now tolerable instead of making your ears bleed.

Definitely recommend for a cheap and cheerful fix.

[Aussie Jeepster]

Mounted a 140 Watt solar panel on the roof today.
Very unlikely to have a flat battery now.

[3lud13]

I did a test fit and am pretty happy with the results jerry can on each side rear canvas closed and bike is sitting pretty damn nice on the back103488
I was going to build a rack for it but with how it is now I could just trim a little or of each side of jerry can racks and be done, though I definitely need a ramp of some sort I lifted it up with ratchet straps

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

[Barefoot Dave]

Looking great, mate.

[Quarks]

Not today, but 1am on Christmas Eve...

Finally finished installing door locks: putting the driver's side back together, after having done the passenger door a week ago.

I've keyed the doors and ignition alike, to make life easy.
Having the later style doors meant a bit more fiddling around, putting the lever and barrels in the handles, plus manufacturing new wire rod linkages from fencing wire. The most difficult bit was filing through the spot welds on the latches. I must have a bit of patience as it took over two hours on each latch. But the satisfaction of having it all working is fantastic.

[normie]

the filter housing has a drain plug just put a small container under it and no mess Charlie

[oowa]

Friend and I out for a drive down Sussex inlet nose, and yes I got bogged.

[Aussie Jeepster]

After locating a genuine snorkel unit, fitted it all up today. Had to trim 2" off the inlet hose to fit it, but other than that it was easy.
Currently waiting for the correct gasket to go under the snorkel to arrive from Land Rover next week for a total of $6 plus GST.
Then I'll put all the fixings in.

[oowa]

Friend and I out for a drive down Sussex inlet nose, and yes I got bogged.
My bogged truck

[BadCo.]

My bogged truck

Nice work! :D

[davesquirrel]

Yesterday I got someone to fit an immobiliser and ignition lock barrel, mainly because I needed it done pronto and I had too much else on.

Today I got in and drove down to the beach. And I made it home. This is an alien concept to me. I kind of like it.

I am however starting the "Power Steering Kit Fund", which may also end up becoming the "Turbocharger Fund" as well. This is in complete contradiction to my initial "i'm buying a Perentie" thread...

[dan2090]

FFR (Series) tailgate conversion. 104405104406104407104408104409

[Barefoot Dave]

Gday Scott.
Nice work. Much discussion about doing it but you seem to be the first (with photos, anyway).
Was it as easy as it looks?
Hours taken/traps for young players?

[mick88]

Spent the best part of the day trying to isolate an issue with the rear lights not working and the left indicator blowing a fuse every now and again when it feels like it. Might have tracked the rear light problem down to the "blackout" switch.
Still a work in progress! :(




Cheers, Mick.

[awelshman]

Hey fellas,

I spend more time banging on about my County and not enough about the Perentie - I think you will already know a lot of this but

- Only bought her from Minto before Christmas, I liked that the clutch was the last thing the army replaced as per the log book so I wouldn't have to do it - WRONG! Clutch was slipping so she's currently in for service with Davis Landy's getting that fixed and locks installed. Army used crap clutches that were't strong enough.

Met Robert from Botswana in the car park at Castle Towers - he had made his Perentie a single cab to secure the cock pit and installed better runners to stop the windows rattling (I still need to do that - any suggestions?)

Bruce Davis quoted me $5k for the turbo and $4,500 to get seatbelt in the back - if anyone has any thoughts about doing the seat belts legally I would be very interested.

Rob told me that the Landcover paint can be bought from protect paint in Minto but you all probably already knew that.

Anyone installed a UHF radio? are they all pretty similar? I believe the key is a good aerial?

Are many of you Sydney based guys members of LROC?


Cheers,

Tony

[Landybitz]

The last seat install we did cost around $2500 with compliance.

[Chris078]

Spent the best part of the day trying to isolate an issue with the rear lights not working and the left indicator blowing a fuse every now and again when it feels like it. Might have tracked the rear light problem down to the "blackout" switch.
Still a work in progress! :(




Cheers, Mick.


Hi Mick, if you are still chasing this, have a close look at the wiring where it comes out of the rear chassis, then follow it along where the brackets hold it in place up the the rear lights.
Good chance it's rubbed through there, or where it goes in and out of the rear cross-member.

If after that you're still chasing, disconnect the wiring from the right rear light, and pull the wiring out of the rear cross-member. You will find that the factory 5 pin trailer socket was left attached, just shoved inside the cross-member. If it's anything like mine was, it's full of mud, corroded to hell and causing shorts as the mud soaked up moisture and dried out again.
Lost a lot of hair finding that one!

[Carzee]

Factory 5 pin connector? Maybe this is my little gremlin as well.
Since yesterday I have no indicators, no flasher can noise either. BUT the hazard lights bulb functions and flasher can are perfectly fine. I suppose the hazard circuit has its own flasher and its own lamp connector? :(

[Carzee]

Took Yo Yo in a march - the Men From Snowy River Commemoration at Delegate.
The Men From Snowy River | Delegate | New South Wales | Australia (http://www.themenfromsnowyriver.com.au)

A good weekend, very memorable.

Slept in the swag.

8 pics in album: https://goo.gl/photos/MBFcDAerKmjsWGeD6

[rathgar]

...... I suppose the hazard circuit has its own flasher and its own lamp connector? :(

No there is only one flasher. I would look at the hazard switch. Somewhere on the internet I found some info to check the wiring by bypassing the hazard switch. That is what I did to diagnose the switch as the problem.

[mick88]

Thanks Chris,
I will do that.
Spent half of yesterday trying troubleshoot the problem, slowly making progress. It originally started with the left indicators occasionally cooking a fuse then eventually they decided they wanted to play dead. Finally the right ones went out in sympathy as did the tail lights. Main issue is now is I don't have any power getting to the combination switch. The wiring behind the dash is a nightmare in these things with all the add-ons for blackout switching etc. Ohh and not to mention using "red" for an earth, brown and blue as positives becomes a tad confusing when your brain dead from trying to track the problem. :(


Cheers, Mick.

[BadCo.]

LEDs mick. That will solve half your problems. Those old dome fittings are rubbish, and those rear combination fittings aren't too flash either.

My brake globe would rattle lose then short out when I applied the brakes.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile app

[Phil B]

I installed a turbo kit from KLR into 48-749 over the long weekend.
Had a few extra things to do as well (new heater matrix, radiator rod and clean, clean out water ways in the block, head and thermostat, reposition the air cleaner brackets to suit a new Donaldson air cleaner) and haven't got the rad back yet so no test drive yet ( Cant wait, sounds awesome !!).
I took Monday off and the install was complete in 3 1/2 days.
Started first go.


If anybody is considering a turbo I highly recommend the KLR kit.
It is high quality, complete and comprehensive.
The instructions and included photo's are good and the sequence is easy to follow.
It costs $3050 at the moment and excluding the exhaust (I've been quoted $800 for a 2 1/2" mild steel system complete, fitted) and some sealants you don't need anything else except tools. Very minimal welding and grinding and everything is well thought out and all fits.


Photo's and road report to follow when I get the rad back !!


Regards,

[isuzutoo-eh]

Hi Tony,
I am a member of LROC(S), there's a good bunch of us in the club and there has even been the odd Perentie specific trip/training excercise.

I installed my UHF radio behind the passenger seat, though mine has all the controls in the handset (Icom IC440). I had to drill one hole, the other was factory supplied. I have a bolt-on antenna mount on the bullbar but as mine is an FFR I might relocate it to the proper place (ie a sugar scoop).

Cheers,
Mark


Hey fellas,

I spend more time banging on about my County and not enough about the Perentie - I think you will already know a lot of this but

- Only bought her from Minto before Christmas, I liked that the clutch was the last thing the army replaced as per the log book so I wouldn't have to do it - WRONG! Clutch was slipping so she's currently in for service with Davis Landy's getting that fixed and locks installed. Army used crap clutches that were't strong enough.

Met Robert from Botswana in the car park at Castle Towers - he had made his Perentie a single cab to secure the cock pit and installed better runners to stop the windows rattling (I still need to do that - any suggestions?)

Bruce Davis quoted me $5k for the turbo and $4,500 to get seatbelt in the back - if anyone has any thoughts about doing the seat belts legally I would be very interested.

Rob told me that the Landcover paint can be bought from protect paint in Minto but you all probably already knew that.

Anyone installed a UHF radio? are they all pretty similar? I believe the key is a good aerial?

Are many of you Sydney based guys members of LROC?


Cheers,

Tony

[mick88]

Factory 5 pin connector? Maybe this is my little gremlin as well.
Since yesterday I have no indicators, no flasher can noise either. BUT the hazard lights bulb functions and flasher can are perfectly fine. I suppose the hazard circuit has its own flasher and its own lamp connector? :(




Hazard uses the indicator flasher unit!
Good luck! ;)

[Bearman]

Factory 5 pin connector? Maybe this is my little gremlin as well.
Since yesterday I have no indicators, no flasher can noise either. BUT the hazard lights bulb functions and flasher can are perfectly fine. I suppose the hazard circuit has its own flasher and its own lamp connector? :(

I think you will find the problem is the hazard switch. I had the same "no indicators" problem not long ago and it turned out to be the hazard switch.

[mick88]

Bearman where did you source the new hazard switch from if I may ask?




Cheers, Mick.

[Bearman]

Got it off fleabay Mick. Was some time ago so don't have a link unfortunately.

[Best 4x4xFar]

Switched over the pintle to a combination pintle/ball hitch.
Just need to sort out an adaptor from the NATO plug to 7 pin & can tow anything :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/1.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/01/2.jpg
Have you managed to sort out an adaptor plug, I have found a place over east that sells the 12 pin nato plugs, let me know if you're interested

[Best 4x4xFar]

Today, I had a looked my Perentie (48623 Snr Commander) for logical mounting points for a Hi Lift Jack. 3 options so far 1) are across the inside of the bulbar but I don't want to drill the gal on the bulbar or 2) I thought about mounting it vertically with the base in one of the jerry can holders on the back and bolting one of the HiLift brackets normally used on a rear spare to the back under the rear window to hold the Jack in place or 3) across and below the rear seats. Would be interested to get ideas from photos and brackets that people have used to mount a HiLift.

One use for the Jack would be to use it to lift the draw bar of a heavy trailer upto the height of the Perentie trailer hitch !!

Andrew.Hi Andrew, I put my high lift jack on the bonnet. Strapped it to the brackets that the windscreen folds on to.

[BadCo.]

Hi Andrew, I put my high lift jack on the bonnet. Strapped it to the brackets that the windscreen folds on to.

Us hard top fellas don't have this luxery.

[RipNZ]

Made a bikini top out of some shade cloth.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105289&stc=1&d=1454591153

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105290&stc=1&d=1454591153

[rar110]

Made a bikini top out of some shade cloth. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105289&stc=1&d=1454591153 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=105290&stc=1&d=1454591153

Looks brilliant.

[rathgar]

The drop fitting from my D2 gives a perfect height for an on road trailer. When the fitting is removed the receiver is no lower than the spare tyre.
Its made from 130 x 10 bar front and rear of the chassis (with crush tubes inside) and bolted right through. Doesn't foul the spare. Would have looked better if I'd had some black paint!