What did you do on your Perentie Today.

[wpalmo]

Got my towbar back from the galvanisers last week and found some time on Sunday to fit it up. Looking forward to hitching up my tandem next week and seeing how it tows on the new ball. The No5 fits well but just have to wire up the new 7 pin socket first before I tow the tandem.
Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/691.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GYicQD)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/692.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GSjnK8)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/693.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GVieJs)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/694.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GQ39Do)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/695.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GQ2x5Y)

[BadCo.]

Got my towbar back from the galvanisers last week and found some time on Sunday to fit it up. Looking forward to hitching up my tandem next week and seeing how it tows on the new ball. The No5 fits well but just have to wire up the new 7 pin socket first before I tow the tandem.
Regards Warrick.


That's a lot of tools for a couple of bolts ;)

[dranoweb]

That's a lot of tools for a couple of bolts ;)

"Just dropped down to bunnings for a budget bucket-o-tools"

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[spie]

Unrelated but is that an RFSV running 255/85R16 on "Wolf" rims? If so, can you fit both spares on the back [inflated/deflated doesn't matter]???


Cheers

[wpalmo]

That's a lot of tools for a couple of bolts ;)

Ended up doing an oil and filter change on the RFSV and also my Polaris MV700 before I bolted up the towbar. Plus I am a bit unorganised with my tools and seem to have to look through a few crates to get the right spanners etc.

Regards Warrick.

[wpalmo]

Unrelated but is that an RFSV running 255/85R16 on "Wolf" rims? If so, can you fit both spares on the back [inflated/deflated doesn't matter]???


Cheers

Yes it is an RFSV on Wolf 255/85R16's. No you can't fit two 255/85R16 spares on the back but you can fit one underneath and one on the back. Haven't ried it out with both deflated though! It might be possible.
Regards Warrick.

[Mick_Marsh]

Got my towbar back from the galvanisers last week and found some time on Sunday to fit it up. Looking forward to hitching up my tandem next week and seeing how it tows on the new ball. The No5 fits well but just have to wire up the new 7 pin socket first before I tow the tandem.
Regards Warrick.
A tad over engineered I suspect. You'll be able to tow a Mack with that.

Looks great.

[dranoweb]

With clutch slave replacement consuming the remainder of my spare time bdfore travel, was forced to pay my patient mechanic to replace the pinion shaft seal.

So I guess this is more like "what I had done to my perentie today".

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[Chris078]

With clutch slave replacement consuming the remainder of my spare time bdfore travel, was forced to pay my patient mechanic to replace the pinion shaft seal.

So I guess this is more like "what I had done to my perentie today".

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Tell your mechanic he needs to top up the hydraulic oil in his lift.
and check the rating, most 2 post lifts are only 2.5T which is cutting it close on a perentie with a full load of fuel/tools & winch.

Hope your trip goes well.

[dranoweb]

Tell your mechanic he needs to top up the hydraulic oil in his lift.
and check the rating, most 2 post lifts are only 2.5T which is cutting it close on a perentie with a full load of fuel/tools & winch.

Hope your trip goes well.

Jerries were both empty, half tank of fuel and very little on board for that very reason.

Just noticed the oil, will mention it.

We did find that the original seal had been inserted askew, and had caused it to scrub out.

He manufactured a tool to insert it squarely - diff still had plenty of oil, so had not been leaking long.

rather glad I paid him to do it, as I simply would not have had the time, and likely would have had to do it in the field en-route.

also met a 6X6 driver today who lives locally - that's 2 other locals that have perenties now.

[wpalmo]

A tad over engineered I suspect. You'll be able to tow a Mack with that.

Looks great.

Thanks Mick. Just wanted to make sure that the push from my 2t tandem wasn't going to be an issue hence the bracing back onto the main chassis rails. I looked at the Hayman Reece set up that a mate of mine has on his Defender before I designed it and it also has a similar bracing set up. I will keep an eye on it though to see if there are any issues.

I will be heading out this weekend with chainsaw in hand and tandem in tow for a load of firewood. Just starting to get cold here in the South West. I will post some photos when it is loaded up.

Regards Warrick.

[dranoweb]

So all the hard work is paying off, though I think my clutch diaphragm is a little tired.

caught up with the ****box rally guys in Dargo

Ran into a guy running a 6x6 in bright - looking for other perenties to convoy with in his tour business.

Sounds like a chance for a get together.

Ran into a Wo2 in wangaratta the may be of help with the usn on my tac plates too. Going to benalla tomorrow to chase that up.

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[dranoweb]

Just to note - i have received a warning regarding the use of my language on the last post.

This was not a colloquial reference - rather a concice naming of the actual event name.

I'm not sure how else to refer to it - and in my current location, pm's through the mobile app are not functioning.

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[Barefoot Dave]

Well it is the ****box really after all!. Official name, robot censors will take care of the****s as they did. All good as fast as I can see.

[Bearman]

Just to note - i have received a warning regarding the use of my language on the last post.

This was not a colloquial reference - rather a concice naming of the actual event name.

I'm not sure how else to refer to it - and in my current location, pm's through the mobile app are not functioning.

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It's all to do with the forum being "G" rated and there is a "swear filter" in place to mask any typed swear words. But if you disguise the word like you did the filter will not pick it up. As was explained by the mod all you have to do is type the full swear word (if you must swear) and it will be taken care of. There are lots of words these days that are socially acceptable but still classified as swear words and as you say it is an officially named rally. Hope this clears it up.

[dranoweb]

Anyway - to put things back on topic a little

Just completed approx 900km in 4 days in the perentie, including dargo-high plains rd.

Battle damage is as follows:

Passenger door jammed shut

roof rack rubber and bolt missing

swinging floodlight - once attached to roof rack.

speedo cable chafing squeek

mystery intermittant fan-belt like squeek when engine braking

Strangely hot brakes after decending 1700m in 45km (probably not a fault)

Broken hot wire on alternator

Broken solar panel mounts.

Window felt loose (again!!)

a bunch of new rattles and squeeks that I need to investigate. Possible loose nuts and rivets.

Clutch also feels worn, but that's no different from departure date.

Oh and in case anyone isn't aware Bandiana museum now requires 24hrs notice for entry since bases went to safebase charlie.

Pity I didn't have more notice that I'd be in the area.


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[Chris078]

I wouldn't worry too much about those brakes mate.
Had to pull over and let mine cool and the pedal hit the floor descending the steep side of Mt Nebo the other day.
It is a 1/3 hill, in second gear keeping at 40 cooked the brakes in about 4 minutes. supposedly they are good. new calipers/pads all round, fluid flushed less than 6 months ago.

Today I went for a drive up the Brisbane Valley. Bumped into County3.9 in his topless FFR at Fernvale. Had a good chat.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/511.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/399.jpg

[Dervish]

I noticed the brakes were a bit spongy the other day, I thought at the time it must've been a gradual decline but evidently not. Today I went to adjust the shoes only to find the front adjuster on the RHS spun the full 360 degrees. Nuts :( I better see what the problem is...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/349.jpg

Not only is the adjustment rivet thing missing, something else is not right. The shoes are symmetrical, rather than leading and trailing. Looks like this will take a bit of sorting out.

[rar110]

I hate drum brakes. I changed to discs years ago. A fit and forget mod. I'm still on the original pads and discs.

[wpalmo]

Hi All,

I hitched up my 2 ton trailer for the first time yesterday on the new combination tow hitch and picked up a load of fire wood. The Perentie towed it beautifully.

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/337.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GXJGsu)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/338.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Gsyf6Z)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/339.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GXJrYu)

[Dervish]

I hate drum brakes. I changed to discs years ago. A fit and forget mod. I'm still on the original pads and discs.

I have discs on the other one, but I want 48-010 to stay standard. For all the extra pain drums are, they are very easily serviceable; and being only on the rear shouldn't wear quickly.

That said I did find an unobtainium calliper bracket a few months ago and set it aside, just in case I changed my mind. I'll keep my eyes out for another.

[BadCo.]

I have discs on the other one, but I want 48-010 to stay standard. For all the extra pain drums are, they are very easily serviceable; and being only on the rear shouldn't wear quickly.

That said I did find an unobtainium calliper bracket a few months ago and set it aside, just in case I changed my mind. I'll keep my eyes out for another.

You mean like these? (http://www.red-winches.com/categories/lr-disc-brake-conversions/28/)

[Dervish]

You mean like these? (http://www.red-winches.com/categories/lr-disc-brake-conversions/28/)

Like those, yes, but not. The only brackets I've seen work are offset between the axle flange and calliper mounting surfaces, not flat like these. There's also no mention of what hubs are used. I think these are only for converting standard 2-pot disc brake axles to 4-pot callipers. The axle housing they have in the fitting instructions is a rover type rear, so I guess they're talking about Defender 90s only. I'd go so far as to say they just won't work on a Perentie.

If I actually wanted to do the conversion I'd use the KLR kit, which fits and picks up on 4 bolts like the factory bracket.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/314.jpg

But I'm happy just putting bits I find aside, I'm not set on converting anything.

[Bearman]

You could always get a used 6X6 rear or intermediate axle from AFM auctions and just pillage the brakes off it. You might need to overhaul the calipers/rotors but at least you would get everything you need including the hubs. They have been going pretty cheap - probably cost more for transport than the purchase price tho as the box they come in weights a ton!

[BadCo.]

Like those, yes, but not. The only brackets I've seen work are offset between the axle flange and calliper mounting surfaces, not flat like these. There's also no mention of what hubs are used. I think these are only for converting standard 2-pot disc brake axles to 4-pot callipers. The axle housing they have in the fitting instructions is a rover type rear, so I guess they're talking about Defender 90s only. I'd go so far as to say they just won't work on a Perentie.

If I actually wanted to do the conversion I'd use the KLR kit, which fits and picks up on 4 bolts like the factory bracket.

But I'm happy just putting bits I find aside, I'm not set on converting anything.

Bugger, I was hoping those would work.

Well maybe I'll have to get me old mate around again to help me draw some up to be laser cut.

[dranoweb]

I'm fairly adept at autocad and toolpathing for cnc machines, also have access to cnc plasma, cnc mill, and big cnc laser.

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[Paultan]

Finally got round to installing power steering, should have done it months / years ago, what a difference.

The issue that has popped out is that I had to take the expansion tank off, it is now overflowing and leaving a nice green piddle mark where ever I go! Have I inadvertently got an air block? If so any help in fixing the old girl peeing every where would be gratefully appreciated.

[mick88]

Finally got round to installing power steering, should have done it months / years ago, what a difference.


Transforms the vehicle into something that is so much more useable doesn't it!
What variety of Perentie do you have and why did you have to remove the expansion tank?


Cheers, Mick.

[dranoweb]

Judging by the green colouration I would guess radiator expansion.

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[Paultan]

Absolutely Mick. I've got a FFR survey hard top. Thought it'd be easier putting the steering box in from above.

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[Lotz-A-Landies]

Today I only did one thing on the Perentie, finally acquired and fitted the battery slides for the 24V radio batteries.

Tomorrow I'll go down to the auto parts store and find a dual battery isolator. The plan is to run only two batteries for the green radios in the LHS battery box and then run a single 12V secondary battery (off the vehicle cranking battery) in the RHS box. Hope I can re-use the original cables in the RHS box to connect to the isolator relay by re-routing them.

In relation to the rear disks.
The bracket in the image above reminds me of the bracket fitted to the early rear disk Defenders, before they were welded on. These used 2 pot callipers.

What about acquiring a set of disks off one of the RFSV rear axles from Graysonline/AFM auctions? You may have to recondition or replace the callipers and rotors but it will be a direct bolt on conversion.

[dranoweb]

Changed front uni joints today.
fixed the steering wobble, downshift problems, downshift squeaking, rattles, and power issues all in one go.

Rears were ok, and just given new grease.

looks like a had standard duty gkn uni joints, now have the heavy duty jobs with bigger pin rollers.

Looks like it died from a blocked grease nipple.

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[rfurzer]

Still not plucked up the courage to pull the working vehicle apart yet!

[Dervish]

Still not plucked up the courage to pull the working vehicle apart yet!

Looking good! I'd say just go for it, I'm looking forward to seeing the complete vehicle.

Yesterday I replaced the shoes; it now adjusts fine and no more spongey pedal. I went for a spin to bed the drums in, but when I got back one side was noticeably warmer than the other. Backed the adjustment off a fraction more on that side and now it's all good; just a little bit warm both sides after a normal drive and wheels spin freely when jacked up.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/05/110.jpg

[Dervish]

In preparation for the fearsome Sunshine Coast winter (I've heard they're predicting it will be on a Wednesday this year :D ), I slipped the now half Olive Drab'd roof back on. I'll miss the wind in my hair, but not the spiderwebs.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/429.jpg

[dranoweb]

Just a simple oil change for me today - marking my first 5000k's

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[BadCo.]

In preparation for the fearsome Sunshine Coast winter (I've heard they're predicting it will be on a Wednesday this year :D ), I slipped the now half Olive Drab'd roof back on. I'll miss the wind in my hair, but not the spiderwebs.



That's a smart looking wagon mate

[Ashleylipus]

Installed the brake booster i had reconditioned at hoppers stoppers in hoppers crossing. $250 i was quite satisfied
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/412.jpg
Also removed the mess of wire from the old intake pipe
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/06/413.jpg

[Chris J]

Fitted some new rubber this morning

[dranoweb]

So did I lol...



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[Bearman]

It's only flat on the bottom. What are you worried about:D

[dranoweb]

Lol flat bottoms usually progress to flat bottomed rims lol. Preventative maintenance

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[Bearman]

Have spent the last few day fitting the long range fuel tank and water tank under the 6x6 tray and still have enough room for a 2nd spare behind it all! 340L of fuel and 85L of water - that should be enough with the 2 standard tanks to get me where I want to go plus a fair margin to spare. Added an electric transfer pump and plumbed the fuel line into the T piece on the breather line on the drivers side tank. Filler and breather is mounted on the front of the tray just behind the drivers side tank filler. The idea is to just top up this tank as it gets low and keep the passenger side one till the auxiliary has run dry. I removed the breather pipe between the 2 tanks and have added a breather on each tank that comes up behind the cab - so shouldn't have any more piddle spots when I fuel up now. Also got around to fabricating the bracket to mount the York air compressor on top of the aircon compressor and have finished that install. The compressor and 2 15Litre alum tanks works well, the tanks have a 70/100psi switch to work the compressor which is driven off the 2nd groove on the alternator pulley. Pretty wet here today so not much happening but still have to finish the taps for the water tank lines - maybe next week!! Photos to come.

[Bearman]

Lol flat bottoms usually progress to flat bottomed rims lol. Preventative maintenance

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Pull the tube out and fit a tubeless stem. Most flats with these are from tyres rubbing holes in the tubes as they flex.

[dranoweb]

Will look at that as an option later.

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[davesquirrel]

Depressingly the battery has gone flat through lack of use (been ill or away for the last month, so no Landy fun), so i'm going to do battle with the passenger seat, take it out and charge it, then put a cover over the old girl until next weekend when I have time to reinstall and take her for a spin...

[dranoweb]

Depressingly the battery has gone flat through lack of use (been ill or away for the last month, so no Landy fun), so i'm going to do battle with the passenger seat, take it out and charge it, then put a cover over the old girl until next weekend when I have time to reinstall and take her for a spin...

I added 40 watts of solar to keep battery topped up.

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[spie]

New fluids, filters, fuses & brake MC on the weekend. Also chased down why my tail lights wern't working [I had replaced the number plate light cover and the new screw was slightly longer/shorting] and finished removal of the rear seat [rattle gun helped]

[dranoweb]

Discovered a problem with my perentie when parked for longer than 10 minutes...

other land rovers keep appearing out of nowhere - and image upload seems to have failed

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[dranoweb]

There we go!

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[Chris078]

After 6 weeks in hospital, I finally escaped and started it. bit smokey but it cleared up after a minute, now have to take it to get a new brake master cylinder as mine appears to be failing.
<edit> - the pedal slowly drops an extra inch when you press your foot down hard at the lights - or, more disturbingly, when you're pressing hard going downhill with the trailer on the back 0_0

[dranoweb]

Tried mine out in the cold today.
looks like my repair to the heater fan control was successful

Though I seem to have put a uni joint in backwards when replacing, now having issues getting the grease gun in there.

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[davesquirrel]

I added 40 watts of solar to keep battery topped up

I looked at sticking a solar panel on the roof, however I appear to have more pressing matters to attend to.

Discovered that while for the last couple of months i've been addressing the water collecting in the footwell by the use of towels and a bucket, i've overlooked the other places it has got in, there was a puddle behind the passenger seat where the seatbelt is anchored, also the plywood in the back has got wet, and the whole tarp has succumbed to mould inside and out.

Off it came last week, and after purchasing a thoroughly useless car cover and drowning the poor thing, i've thrown a decent tarp over her and occy strapped it down.

The tarp has been removed from the garage and seeing as we have a vaguely dry day my good lady has draped it over the patio table and is currently tending to it with white vinegar and bicarb of soda. Because she's awesome.

While it's off the plan is to re-waterproof it once the mould has been taken care of. Assuming it can be. All tips greatfully received.

Greatly regretting not addressing this sooner, but hindsight is a wonderful thing. Roll on October and a move to somewhere hopefully with a carport or garage...

[dranoweb]

Couple of tips,

Water in drivers footwell is possibly drips coming down the clutch pedal.

If the bonnet fittings are loose, water will leak into the channels under the bonnet and drip off on top of the clutch master cyl - from there it leaks into the footwell.

Tarp - try looking for "landybitzau" on ebay. I got a spanking new fitted canvas fot $1800.

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[Carzee]

Is the canopy the Robco one?

110 Canopies available from Robco (http://remlr.com/forum/index.php'topic=2167.0)

[normie]

The other thing you can do to reduce the mess:
1. when draining, loosen the filter slowly until you get a bit of oil coming out the thread, then quickly tighten about 1/4 turn.
Then remove the oil sump plug. while oil is draining from the sump, slowly loosen the filter until you hear it suck air. This allows the oil in the filter to be pulled out as the oil drains out.

2. When installing the new filter, just half fill it with oil instead of completely filling it. I've found I can quickly flip over and install a half full filter before it makes a mess. You do need to be careful to make sure you don't cross thread it. Just make sure the oil light goes out within 5 seconds of starting it the first time. If it does not, you have an airlock and need to re-install the filter (apparently anyway, I've changed my oil 3 times using this method and it hasn't happened to me yet).

nice to learn about the drain bung. Never looked for one, just assumed it was mess makin' time!
The filter housing has a drain plug drain it first and no mess

[gooloo]

7 new wolf rims in protec camo green. an almost perfect match to the existing rims.

despite the dodgy picture (taken when wet) they do dry to a nice matt finish...

more runs than a cricket pitch but it's not a show car....

now to source some 255/85 bfg's for a price that doesn't make my head explode

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1105.jpg

[wpalmo]

Hi All,

I love the Narva spot lights but after running HID Hella spots on my Series III Stage One I felt that I needed a bit more light up front on the Perentie than the Narva could supply. I found this Baja lightbar for a good price. It is a nice piece of kit. I also upgraded the globes in the Narva spots to the Narva white light halogen globes. I will connect up the lightbar this week. Looking forward to seeing if the Baja light bar is as good as the reviews state.

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/07/1023.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/HQ4zQC)

[87County]

Since size 86 batteries are no longer widely available at a reasonable price we fitted Caterpiller 175-4390s in the RFSV - 10mm less depth and 5mm higher - 5 year prorata warranty.

I like the 1000 CCA for these frosty mornings :)

[dranoweb]

Don't N70ZZ fit them?

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[Mick_Marsh]

Since size 86 batteries are no longer widely available at a reasonable price we fitted Caterpiller 175-4390s in the RFSV - 10mm less depth and 5mm higher - 5 year prorata warranty.

I like the 1000 CCA for these frosty mornings :)
I couldn't find a N70 in stock at the local car parts suppliers. Walked into the local farm suppliers, there, on the shelf, was a N86. Good price too.

[87County]

Don't N70ZZ fit them?



It may fit but it won't match size to fit under an FFR or RFSV dual bracket .

The point I was making is that the referenced CAT battery will fit and it has much more CCA - and not much dearer if at all

[gooloo]

was planning on chucking on the new seat covers, mounting some relays for headlights, spotlights, and an accessory circuit.... grinding the welds off my door locks, and investigating the seemingly increasing fluid leak from my tcase

I got new seat covers on and then this happened....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1067.jpg

the bears demanded a trip for ice cream and a picnic

before the 6x6 my 5 year old had never sat in the front seat... never driven with her arm out the window and her hair blowing everywhere. with no stereo and no mobile phone. and no aircon. she's still young enough to think it's cool. somehow she even manages to fall asleep at 80+kph

[dranoweb]

My wife falls asleep at 80k on corrugated roads in the perentie....

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[Paultan]

Some of you may have already seen this on the Facebook page. But thought I'd share again!!

Installed a mahogany deck.

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[normie]

If you pull out the hand throttle and twist to the right it will lock on desired setting:)
Revised my "cruise control unit" design today.

I was sick of the old wood block method so I designed and adjustable hand throttle adjuster for those long trips, where you need more than one block of wood.

Land Rover Cruise Control by Dranoweb - Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1547905)

If you aren't the 3d printing sort, I may be persuaded to make a few "samples" and send them out to people for a couple of bucks.

[normie]

Where can you get camo seat covers
was planning on chucking on the new seat covers, mounting some relays for headlights, spotlights, and an accessory circuit.... grinding the welds off my door locks, and investigating the seemingly increasing fluid leak from my tcase

I got new seat covers on and then this happened....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/09/1067.jpg

the bears demanded a trip for ice cream and a picnic

before the 6x6 my 5 year old had never sat in the front seat... never driven with her arm out the window and her hair blowing everywhere. with no stereo and no mobile phone. and no aircon. she's still young enough to think it's cool. somehow she even manages to fall asleep at 80+kph

[Phil B]

Robco Products in Sydney, or often on Ebay

[dranoweb]

I began the search for the illusive reverse light switch.

Removed the center console and inspected as much of the gearbox I can get to - still no luck.

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[Mick_Marsh]

My wife falls asleep at 80k on corrugated roads in the perentie....

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I've had two friends nod off in the Perentie.
The 6x6 is a surprisingly comfortable vehicle. Only surprising by what you read on the forum. Not really surprising at all when you own one.

[87County]

they can be very soporific :)

[rfurzer]

Gave the prototype the acid test

[rfurzer]

Another view

[Dop]

I changed oils in the Diffs, Transfer Case, Gear Box and Engine today. Front diff was a little old looking, rear diff was the colour of honey and transparent, transfer case was good, engine was black as diesel is, the gear box was ok however, have a look at the magnetic drain bolt (looks like a)! I put the Nulon G70 into the diffs, transfer and gear box and I have to say that the gear changes are already much smoother. Thank you to all at AULRO as it was your knowledge that allowed me to do this. Thank you, Grant

[Bearman]

I changed oils in the Diffs, Transfer Case, Gear Box and Engine today. Front diff was a little old looking, rear diff was the colour of honey and transparent, transfer case was good, engine was black as diesel is, the gear box was ok however, have a look at the magnetic drain bolt (looks like a)! I put the Nulon G70 into the diffs, transfer and gear box and I have to say that the gear changes are already much smoother. Thank you to all at AULRO as it was your knowledge that allowed me to do this. Thank you, Grant

Hi Grant, Don't worry about that crud on the gearbox magnet, it is normal. If you rub it been your fingers it wont even feel abrasive. Cheers..Brian

[Dop]

Hi Grant, Don't worry about that crud on the gearbox magnet, it is normal. If you rub it been your fingers it wont even feel abrasive. Cheers..Brian
Thank you Brian, I did just that, when I first saw it I was a little worried, after I washed it in petrol (that's when I took the photo) you couldn't even feel it. All good, should get me to Camden next Saturday now!

[normie]

Perenties use single spin-on oil filters. Ryco part is Z435. However it's out of production. Unless someone has old stock you won't find it.

Next easiest to obtain is Donaldson P550422. Repco can order these in. Around $50-ish.

I don't have the fuel filter info on hand, but it is posted in the Isuzu thread somewhere. Possibly a sticky topic.


Ryco 419

[Bearman]

Ryco 419

You sure about that number Normie?
The normal filter for both 4x4 and 6x6 in Ryco brand is Z169A.

[Ashleylipus]

I bought from filters distributors Australia. They have an ebay store and i picked up from mitcham https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252534239876
Baldwin brand oil filter b7144
$25.50
They also have 6x6 stuff and they sell a package for 4x4 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252525233811 $130 for fuel oil and the two air filters.

[dranoweb]

I've been very busy with my landy last couple of weeks.

Also have a few new 3D printable bits for you all - including a dash mount system for accessories. Files coming soon.
Excuse the purple - ran out of olive green.

Other stuff:
Removed front drive shaft to grease u-joint.
Greased all nipples
Replaced door top seals with old ones - fixing door seal leaks.
sealed up a few leaks.
removed all interior trim
replaced rusty screws
cleaned red dirt and more 9mm live rounds out of interior.
fish oiled fire wall
refitted floor mats
re-treated canvas
noted perishing tires - budgeted for replacement.
fitted 3rd solar panel
fitted isolated second battery
fitted 3g multiband antenna
fitted carphone (modified galaxy ace 3)
3d printed holder for phone
3d printed mic clip
3d printed magnetic spare fuse holder.
replaced all fuses
replaced all relays
Refitted rear convoy lights
fish oiled engine

And some more stuff I've forgotten


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[Dervish]

It's a good day for painting today, so I threw some on the galvanised bulkhead I've been planning on transplanting for about a year. The activity has been prompted by the arrival of a new project that requires a bulkhead, so I'll swap this one into the Perentie and use the old Perentie one for the new project. It too will be galvanised.

When I do that load of galvanising I'll hopefully be doing the Perentie door and bonnet frames and front ROPS hoop. The front ROPS hoop appears to be designed to have been galvanised - with the vent/drain holes - but it never was.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/644.jpg

[Carzee]

Wow, the gal firewall is back. Excellent.

I see a part in the photo that just must be the same as the GS-Tailgate-numberplate-light-support-bracket.

[Ashleylipus]

It's a good day for painting today, so I threw some on the galvanised bulkhead I've been planning on transplanting for about a year. The activity has been prompted by the arrival of a new project that requires a bulkhead, so I'll swap this one into the Perentie and use the old Perentie one for the new project. It too will be galvanised.



When I do that load of galvanising I'll hopefully be doing the Perentie door and bonnet frames and front ROPS hoop. The front ROPS hoop appears to be designed to have been galvanised - with the vent/drain holes - but it never was.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/644.jpg



How do these members cope with the galvanising? I work in the steel industry and we always have problems with galvanising because of warpage from the hot dip process and even damage from handling.

[Dervish]

How do these members cope with the galvanising? I work in the steel industry and we always have problems with galvanising because of warpage from the hot dip process and even damage from handling.

Valid question, with my huge experience of a single bulkhead galvanised I'd say they go alright; manual handling presented the biggest problem this time. Warpage did occur, but not on the important bit - the bit that's visible when it's installed. There's certainly some subtle waviness on the single skin parts of the footwells, but that isn't a problem for me. They did manage to bend the piece Carzee highlighted on the opposite side and the clutch line bracket (visible on far footwell) while moving the bulkhead around, but they'll bend back just fine.

I did measure between the main chassis mounting holes before and after as that is really the crucial measurement; it didn't change. To be safe I'll probably brace the next one across those two points with RHS. There isn't a great deal of welding on the bulkhead just spot welds, so I don't think there's much built-up stress to release during heating.

[rar110]

Mine was warped in the passenger side A pillar. It looked fairly straight till I put an edge against it.

[Chris078]

took it for a drive for the first time in almost 3 months. Started first go, went like a dream.
Arms, left knee and left foot are now quite sore.
Guess I need to drive it more and get my Perentie conditioning back!

[jskerm]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/491.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/492.jpg
Stuck a roof on it. Big improvement on sound quality in cab.

[rar110]

I'm really surprised the roof fits with the front ROPS in place. Looks good.

[jskerm]

I'm really surprised the roof fits with the front ROPS in place. Looks good.



Had to trim the brackets on the bottom and obviously the seat belt mounts, and also remove the rifle holder.

[rar110]

Had to trim the brackets on the bottom and obviously the seat belt mounts, and also remove the rifle holder.



What brackets on the bottom of what?

[jskerm]

What brackets on the bottom of what?



There are brackets welded on the bottom of the front rops. Not sure what they are for but interfere with the back of the cab.

[rar110]

Yep I remember. Looks like it's supposed to be an upper seat belt mount.

[Dervish]

I got stuck in to the bulkhead replacement this weekend, although only at weekend pace :D

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/430.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/431.jpg

SWMBO got involved for the big lift(s).

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/432.jpg

The bulkhead is mounted but I forgot to take a photo. The bolts slipped straight into place - first time I've had that happen - and the same number of packers under the forward chassis braces to set it up vertical. Good signs.

I tried to take a photo of the inside of the A pillar, it's spotless in there.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/433.jpg

Next job is the loom transplant; my favourite part :angel: An hour every day before work should see the job done by next weekend, depending on how many things I decide to clean/paint/fiddle with along the way. I'm trying to keep those distractions to a minimum; this isn't going to be a concourse vehicle. I contemplated washing the red dirt off the gearbox, but why? It's just going to get replaced with new stuff :)

[Dervish]

Had to trim the brackets on the bottom and obviously the seat belt mounts, and also remove the rifle holder.

To others fitting a cab I recommend leaving the seatbelt mounts in place, as you can then change between cab and canvas. I have been running mine with the canvas for the last few weeks.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/10/429.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

I recently replaced all the clutch hydraulics on 50-422 with new parts according to the RPS. The master cylinder shaft is adjusted right to the end and the system bled 3 times.

The problem is that the clutch only disengages about 2 inches from the floor, there are no other adjustments I could use.

What could be wrong?

[Bearman]

One possibility is they have given you the wrong slave cylinder.

[Summiitt]

Finally got round to putting some new rims and tyres on the 6x6..16x8 rims with 265/75 muddies.. glad to get rid of the 750.16 Michelins..

[wpalmo]

Finally got round to putting some new rims and tyres on the 6x6..16x8 rims with 265/75 muddies.. glad to get rid of the 750.16 Michelins..

Looks great! How does it drive with the new boots?
Regards Warrick.

[dranoweb]

I managed to miss-appropriate some work time thurs/fri and took my perentie on a 2 day routine maintenance run to remote paging sites.
Along the way I managed to pick up a No5 trailer after a short ferry hop.

It towes like a ****ed off kangaroo when it's empty. Thinking tire pressure might get lowered.
(Edit - profainity filter makes that seem worse than it was)


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[Chris078]

finally got around to changing the steering box oil.
Well, changed the half that I could get out with my syringe + irrigation hose suction setup. Got about 200ml of very thin and very black crap out of it.

got a quick drive in before the storms arrived. steering is now considerably lighter. Well over due. Will do it a a few more times until what I pull out looks reasonably new.

seems a stupid design to me, not having a drain plug.
Also drained the winch, which I have never used due to the drive shafts being very loose. got some lovely looking gold chips in what was left of the oil (not much). Looks like I'll be pulling that off soon to.

[Bearman]

Got any pics of what the brass chips look like Chris. If they are only flakey stuff it might be ok. Probably off the worm gear wheel which is made of brass type compound. Does the winch still work ok under load?

[Aussie Jeepster]

finally got around to changing the steering box oil.
Well, changed the half that I could get out with my syringe + irrigation hose suction setup. Got about 200ml of very thin and very black crap out of it.

got a quick drive in before the storms arrived. steering is now considerably lighter. Well over due. Will do it a a few more times until what I pull out looks reasonably new.

seems a stupid design to me, not having a drain plug.
Also drained the winch, which I have never used due to the drive shafts being very loose. got some lovely looking gold chips in what was left of the oil (not much). Looks like I'll be pulling that off soon to.
Is it the same as the old series units where you removed 1 bolt and sucked out/replaced the oil through the same hole?? Or is there another way to do it?
I've never really thought about it until I read your post!!
Edit - I just went and looked and noticed a yellow painted bolt head which I assume is the fill/drain point. What oil does it take? ep90 or ep140? I'm guessing ep90.

[Bearman]

I managed to miss-appropriate some work time thurs/fri and took my perentie on a 2 day routine maintenance run to remote paging sites.
Along the way I managed to pick up a No5 trailer after a short ferry hop.

It towes like a ****ed off kangaroo when it's empty. Thinking tire pressure might get lowered.
(Edit - profainity filter makes that seem worse than it was)


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A good upgrade is to fabricate some shock mounts and put a set on it. Makes it much better mannered on corrugated roads. Somewhere I have a photo of my ex RAAF No.5 that I put shockies on - will see if I can find it.

[dranoweb]

Yes shocks have been suggested by a few people and seems like a good idea.
work is busy as hell now so that may happen later.

As for steering oil - that's something I should do.

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[Chris078]

Is it the same as the old series units where you removed 1 bolt and sucked out/replaced the oil through the same hole?? Or is there another way to do it?
I've never really thought about it until I read your post!!
Edit - I just went and looked and noticed a yellow painted bolt head which I assume is the fill/drain point. What oil does it take? ep90 or ep140? I'm guessing ep90.


As far as I can tell, it's just one bolt on top. I managed to suck out about 200 ml of the 450ml capacity with my suction setup. As I said earlier, I'll do it another 2-3 times to try and get the fluid as close to new as possible.



The book says it takes OEP-220. I put some 80/90 EP gear oil in it (same stuff I put in the diffs). Pretty sure that's the right stuff. can't be any worse than the gunk that was in it.

[dranoweb]

Provided there isn't any bronze in there.

Pretty sure there isn't.

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[davesquirrel]

Pulled off the tarp, reinstalled the freshly-charged battery and fired her up.

See my other post for questions...

[Aussie Jeepster]

As far as I can tell, it's just one bolt on top. I managed to suck out about 200 ml of the 450ml capacity with my suction setup. As I said earlier, I'll do it another 2-3 times to try and get the fluid as close to new as possible.



The book says it takes OEP-220. I put some 80/90 EP gear oil in it (same stuff I put in the diffs). Pretty sure that's the right stuff. can't be any worse than the gunk that was in it.

My level was fairly low so I topped up with some EP90 and nulon G70. I'll drive a bit then get dcreative with some suction to suck it all out and replace, I didn't even know it was top upable!!!!
Nice to learn something new.

[Chris078]

Got any pics of what the brass chips look like Chris. If they are only flakey stuff it might be ok. Probably off the worm gear wheel which is made of brass type compound. Does the winch still work ok under load?


They looked like gold flakes, like a chip had been broken off something and then squashed out between some sort of rollers.

I've never actually used the winch. I'm pretty sure there is something more substantially wrong in there. It appears to be slightly off centre. when you roll it by hand, the vertical pieces of metal on the drum that keep the cable in position hit on the stationary part of the winch.

I've never used it mainly because the driveshafts for it are loose (you can rattle them around in the pillow blocks and I'm pretty sure the Universals are cactus too.
not sure how expensive they are to repair. I may just pull the whole lot off and replace it with an electric one if it's all too hard.
I'm not really a fan of the PTO setup anyway, so it won't be any great loss for me.

[BadCo.]

They looked like gold flakes, like a chip had been broken off something and then squashed out between some sort of rollers.

I've never actually used the winch. I'm pretty sure there is something more substantially wrong in there. It appears to be slightly off centre. when you roll it by hand, the vertical pieces of metal on the drum that keep the cable in position hit on the stationary part of the winch.

I've never used it mainly because the driveshafts for it are loose (you can rattle them around in the pillow blocks and I'm pretty sure the Universals are cactus too.
not sure how expensive they are to repair. I may just pull the whole lot off and replace it with an electric one if it's all too hard.
I'm not really a fan of the PTO setup anyway, so it won't be any great loss for me.

First dibs!

[Bearman]

They looked like gold flakes, like a chip had been broken off something and then squashed out between some sort of rollers.

I've never actually used the winch. I'm pretty sure there is something more substantially wrong in there. It appears to be slightly off centre. when you roll it by hand, the vertical pieces of metal on the drum that keep the cable in position hit on the stationary part of the winch.

I've never used it mainly because the driveshafts for it are loose (you can rattle them around in the pillow blocks and I'm pretty sure the Universals are cactus too.
not sure how expensive they are to repair. I may just pull the whole lot off and replace it with an electric one if it's all too hard.
I'm not really a fan of the PTO setup anyway, so it won't be any great loss for me.

The driveshaft bearings and uj's are pretty cheap from any bearing shop, get the sizes out of the RPS or take the old ones in to compare. Winch parts are still available as far as I know but being a military specific model I can imagine they won't be cheap. Sounds like you could have a bent mainshaft - probably from someone snatching it or towing with the winch rope!!!
Give me a yell if you decide to replace it - I would be interested in it.

[Chris078]

I'll let you guys know what I decide to do.

What have they been selling for at auction recently?

[87County]

I believe it would sell readily being repairable, so doing that and installing an electric winch of your choice could be a viable option.

You may consider installing a dual battery system. It can be useful if you have an electric winch.

[dranoweb]

Just to change the topic slightly:

Did my steering box oil today.
came up with a few cheap hacks to get oil out.

Fyi - oil cap is 17mm head. Ratchet spanners are magic for that.

Used blu-tac, empty glass bottle and some vinyl tube to extract oil - see image.

Some "suction" required. We won't go into that bit.

Filled and removed a few times to flush

Filled with 80w90 gear oil.

Not driven yet - will report back but old oil was definately past it's use-by date, see image.

Then the kids spotted me and asked if they could "decorate stuff".

Not sure if I regret saying yes yet...
Also see image.

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[dranoweb]

Just getting back - steering much better.

Old oil looked like this:

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[Chris078]

Just getting back - steering much better.

Old oil looked like this:

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about what mine looked like.
took 3 changes (300 ml removed each time) to get it to look like new oil.

I went to the chemist and bought a 'flushing syringe' (got some sideways looks when I ask for a syringe but when I explained what i was doing the guy was really helpful) for $1

went to supercheap and found some clear plastic tubing that fitted over the end (stocked with the fuel/vacuum hoses in my local store)
poked around a bit with the tubing and managed to squeeze it a bit past the roller and pulled 300 ml out 20ml at a time.

Steering is definitely much, much lighter. actually makes me concerned how much damage was/has been done to the steering box with the black water that was in it.

<edit> filling the box is a bit difficult due to it's location. I have a plastic jug with a really long, thin spout that was perfect to pour fresh stuff in without getting it everywhere - something to think about if your going to change your oil, which I highly recommend doing.

[Ashleylipus]

I definitely need to try this. My steering is worse turning right than left. Not sure what would cause this. Maybe one face of the worm gear pitted and corroded more than the other? Are there rebuild kits available for the manual box?

[dranoweb]

I used a $2 sauce bottle for filling.

Normally i get giant syringes from the local $2 shop - for filling cakes and doughnuts with jam.

150ml jobs. But none were available on a sunday avo this time.

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[Chris078]

I definitely need to try this. My steering is worse turning right than left. Not sure what would cause this. Maybe one face of the worm gear pitted and corroded more than the other? Are there rebuild kits available for the manual box?

you can source a replacement, though they are getting hard to find and quite expensive.
I'm sure there must be somewhere that can rebuild them, lord knows what the cost is.

what exactly is "worse" when you turn right.
the suggestion would be check everything you can.
start at the steering shaft connecting the steering wheel to the steering box - check the linkages make sure they are tight and not sloppy.

the steering box - change the oil, then get under it and check the pitman arm - grab it and give it a good pull up and down and side to side, there should be no movement. up and down means the sector shaft in the steering box is probably worn, side to side means where it attaches to the box is worn.
have a look at the (3) tie rod ends (ball joints). The standard land rover ones are not greasable, so they tend to dry out, rust and break, which in this car due to it's design is very bad. check the rubber boots, give the steering rods and good twist and pull and see if you can feel the ball joint grinding or scraping, if they are, replace them with some good ones that have grease nipples (good news is even good ones are less than $75 each)

that should keep you busy and probably will find the problem. If it doesn't
the you would have to start looking at a swivel hub issue.

[87County]

I definitely need to try this. My steering is worse turning right than left. Not sure what would cause this. Maybe one face of the worm gear pitted and corroded more than the other? Are there rebuild kits available for the manual box?

It is possible that some wheel alignment person has stuffed up and not got the shaft in the correct position when they "adjusted" it, and have you checked the steering travel stops? They also can be misadjusted.

The boxes can be rebuilt but most people would choose to fit power steering I think.

[dranoweb]

Im happy without power steering
less to go wrong - and when one must rely on their own ability - simple is better.


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[Ashleylipus]

I will put it on jackstands next year when i return from holidays. Ive got a spare box but im sure it needs tierod ends and a good checking over. I'll take it off the road for a couple of days and do it all

[dranoweb]

I took a few minutes this afternoon to remove and inspect the lunette from my number 5 trailer.

Got a little further into things than expected.

Looks like the grease was about 25 years old. All parts now soaking in degreaser overnight befor a scrub, clean and re-greasing tomorrow.

Suspect the grease nipple is stuffed too.

Looks like I may visit my local engineering works in the next few days and make a mod to allow the ring to spin 360.

Then I can get rid of the ankle buster pintle hitch on the Perentie and put a combination pintle ball on it.

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[Barefoot Dave]

Engaged fastback furniture hauling mode

[BadCo.]

Finally installed the electronic speedo today.

All you need is the hall effect sender (YBE100530) (https://www.lrdirect.com/YBE100530-Transducer-Speed/) some 3 core cable and a brake light plug from a Disco 2.

Easy to calibrate, we got it spot on first try.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=117580&stc=1&d=1482041798

[Phil B]

BadCo,


Very nice upgrade.
How much was it if you don't mind me asking?


Regards,

[BadCo.]

BadCo,


Very nice upgrade.
How much was it if you don't mind me asking?


Regards,

This is where I got the gauge from. (http://www.gauge-shop.com.au/catalogue/27-products-by-application/4-automotive/1-gauges-a-instruments/72-speedometers-tachometers/90-speedometer)

Transducer is linked above, then just some 3 core cable which I had laying around.

[normie]

Hello weeds,
I actually went over a weigh bridge the other day with "some" bricks in the back and hit 7.9ton. I was amazed at how well the 6x6 handled with 4.5tin on the back !!
As for doing 105kms/hr, mine will do that, but as you say, it will be screaming it's head off and I don't want to murder my baby !!' and I've checked the speedo against the god and I think 110 on the speedo is 100km it real time.

So really prob keep playing with it till I get it right :)
I would suggest that if you are carrying that weight your gearing is perfect the4BT powers up to 8 ton trucks you have that weight on a ute.

[dranoweb]

I did something a little more mundane anf fitted a 19 inch LED bar as backup lighting.

I used 3x 45mm wrap around gme antenna brackets to mount it.

In the process of inserting the self-drilling screws, I seem to have miss-alligned it.

Guess I have half a day ahead of me with an allan key...

Too hot to do anything else today:

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[mick88]

This is where I got the gauge from. (http://www.gauge-shop.com.au/catalogue/27-products-by-application/4-automotive/1-gauges-a-instruments/72-speedometers-tachometers/90-speedometer)

Transducer is linked above, then just some 3 core cable which I had laying around.


I like it!
That electronic speedometer is also a good option for a series vehicle that has had either 3.54 or 4.1 diffs fitted.


Cheers, Mick.

[normie]

Finished the top coat today,
just seen one of the latest 90s off the production line. same colour though they don,t call it that looks great

[normie]

Do you have a P/N for the filters you get, or do you get AYG 585s from the Isuzu dealer?

I'm sure the AYG 585s must have an equivalent Isuzu number, I just haven't found it yet.

Ryco 419 is what I use

[Ashleylipus]

Got these 5.5" wheels for a trailer build I'll be doing. Had them sandblasted and primed and today I'll paint then in OD. These are AYG8038 wheels by ROH Australia.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/666.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/667.jpg
I'll also be giving the canvas a coat or two of this stuff
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/668.jpg

[Ashleylipus]

And here they are. Thinking i might get new rubber for the perentie and use the xzl's on the trailer because they still have plenty of tread. Not sure what rubber to get yet. Any suggestions? I like the xzl's and would want something similar if not the same. Was looking at wrangler tg's toohttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/02/659.jpg

[87County]

I am aware that tyres are very much a personal choice thing, but I have found BFG MTs in 235 85 16 (7.50 X 16 equivalent) to be quiet enough and long wearing and trouble free, and are claimed to have stronger side walls than their competitors. AFAIK they are only made in tubeless.

There are some well publicised brands that I would avoid.

FWIW I use D1 rims (readily available, cheap and tubeless) :) .

[Dervish]

I am aware that tyres are very much a personal choice thing, but I have found BFG MTs in 235 85 16 (7.50 X 16 equivalent) to be quiet enough and long wearing and trouble free, and are claimed to have stronger side walls than their competitors. AFAIK they are only made in tubeless.


I have over 200kkm on 235/85r16 KM2s, 120kkm off the first set and I'm now on my second which are looking like they'll do the same distance. Brilliant tyres.



There are some well publicised brands that I would avoid.


I'm guessing you mean Coopers? I replaced a set just this past week where one had just about worn octagonal... :o

AYG8038 wheels are from CKD Series 3s; so far as I can tell they're identical to AYG8108 wheels except for the offset.

[Ashleylipus]

I have over 200kkm on 235/85r16 KM2s, 120kkm off the first set and I'm now on my second which are looking like they'll do the same distance. Brilliant tyres.







I'm guessing you mean Coopers? I replaced a set just this past week where one had just about worn octagonal... :o



AYG8038 wheels are from CKD Series 3s; so far as I can tell they're identical to AYG8108 wheels except for the offset.



I had the same problem with my stt's on my nissan patrol. They were horribly feathered but i think it was due to a lot of highway k's with bad bushes and never rotating or doing a wheel alignment..

Im not sure if i want to go with a bfg km2. For the type of off-roading i do i cant justify the price. All i want is a strong tire like my xzl's at a reasonable price, i want to keep the tubes and i want to try and keep the military look. Thats why the wrangler tg's caught my eye. Anyone ever fitted them? Someone on here wrote a post the other day about fitting some.

[Barefoot Dave]

500k round trip/ cross border raid to clean out a shed in exchange for some folding stuff. Detour through nightcap national park. Engine temp never over 85. Noice!

[Barefoot Dave]

500k round trip/cross border raid to exchange green folding for green boxes. Detour via nightcap park. Engine never over 85. Noice.

[87County]

good loot - did you use Lions Rd - if so a very enjoyable drive

[Barefoot Dave]

No mate, a quick trip to get back before the worst of the heat. Highway to/ from Mullimbimby.

[87County]

makes sense in the circumstances :)

[Carzee]

The LRCV is getting closer to completion. Got some more work done on the weekend.

Still a couple of mech jobs and a load of electrical accessories install before Corowa in March.

[Carzee]

A month has gone since that post. A lot got done in time for Corowa Swim-In, but some did remain on the to do list. Eg, cabling the winch, wiring extra driving lights, water pump.
I haven't got photos yet, but we are camped with a 240v supply and the new Engel is on. We've showered and gone up to the Maggiolina loft, on top of bedding as its a warm but breezy night, yellowish full moon, with 4G dongle and Galaxy S2 pads.
V nice. Missed getting some Port for a pre-bed drink "due to a whole lot of poor planning". But other than that... brilliant so far. Pics in a day or two.

[Chris J]

Drove from Corowa to Adelaide with no clutch

[mick88]

Giving it some luv before the run to Melrose and whilst adjusting the rear wheel bearings found with the rear left one it had a rumble.
Turned out to be badly worn/scored, but luckily the local Bearing Service had the seals and bearings in stock.

Cheers, Mick.

[mick88]

I just bared the wires back from my civi plug and poked then into the Nato plug.
Works a treat.

Cheers, Mick.

[mick88]

Paid for it so 48 964 will be heading west to Kalgoorlie on Monday morning. I hope there are no issues to fix first

Run a spanner over all drive shaft/uni joint bolts and also the drive member bolts on the hubs before you set off.
Safe trip.

Cheers, Mick.

[Phil B]

Drive hub bolts as well

[mick88]

Not today, but last Monday we travelled home from Melrose and along the way the alternator light was coming on intermittently, sometimes for a minute or two,
and other times for up to an hour. It was at full glow, not dull.
The whole time it was on the voltmeter was still reading up around 14 volts, so the alternator was obviously still putting out charge.
Anyone had this happen, any ideas what the issue is?
I won't pull the alternator out until after ANZAC Day.

Cheers, Mick.

[Gardi01]

Hello All.

I paid for the new tow bar I had made, fitted and engineered to 3.5 tons by a reputable company. They did a really nice job well worth the cost and I am very happy with it. Now I have multiple towing height options so wont be dragging the back end of a trailer along the road anymore. I will put a pick on here when I have worked out how to do it. I am not sure if I am allowed to put the name of the company on here but if anyone wants to know then msg me.
[bigsmile1]
Chassisline in Toowoomba did the job, They were not afraid to touch the Perentie and I had a very good service experience with them. After having a good look at the way the rear end was constructed the comment was that it was much stronger than the stock chassis. It's all at least 4mm steel and well lapped into the original so quite happy to put 3 to 3.5 tons on it. Very helpful working with me in drawing up what I wanted and getting it to fit. The cost was just under 2 grand including GST but I had removed the Exhaust tail pipe, mud flaps and tied any wiring up out of the way to reduce the work they would need to do.

The chassis is drilled and tubes welded in for the bolts to go thru. They spoke the right language so I was happy for them to do it and I am well pleased with what has been done.122637122638 There is a perpendicular stiffener on the inside. It's as solid as a rock.

[The Beast]

I am not sure if I am allowed to put the name of the company on here but if anyone wants to know then msg me.
[bigsmile1]

I can't see why not; we all talk about "Land Rover". I'd say there would be a lot of people interested to hear more about the tow bar and where you got it from. That is the point of a forum , isn't' it?

[Bearman]

Hello All.

I paid for the new tow bar I had made, fitted and engineered to 3.5 tons by a reputable company. They did a really nice job well worth the cost and I am very happy with it. Now I have multiple towing height options so wont be dragging the back end of a trailer along the road anymore. I will put a pick on here when I have worked out how to do it. I am not sure if I am allowed to put the name of the company on here but if anyone wants to know then msg me.
[bigsmile1]

No problem. Probably quite a few would like to know where to get it from. It's name and shame that is not permitted on the forum for obvious reasons.

[Gardi01]

No problem. Probably quite a few would like to know where to get it from. It's name and shame that is not permitted on the forum for obvious reasons.

Well I added in more info and some pics but now I can't find the post. It was made by Chassisline in Toowoomba.
One day I'll be able to work this thing. Just don't know when.

[rfurzer]

Aaron Burnett is also selling one.

122893122894

[Bearman]

Spent the last few days changing out the diff ratios from 4.7 to 3.54. I was initially looking at 4.11 but decided to go 3.54 due mostly to already having the crownwheel carriers and Salisbury gears to go that way. I bought a HD 3.5 reverse cut front ring and pinion from Ashcrofts and fitted that onto the Trutrac in the front diff. Should get it all finished tomorrow and will take it for a test run and see how it goes - if I can't get enough legs out of the standard TB2518 I am thinking of going the turbo setup from KLR. Another thought is to change the transfer to RFSV gearing and see how that goes. Will get a few photos tomorrow hopefully.

[rar110]

G'day Brian. It might be worth talking to Mike Vine if he's still working. You probably already thought of that. I went with a GT2560 which I bought through Mike. He seemed to think it was a reasonable alternative to a T3 turbo. That was a bit over 10 years ago so things have no doubt changed again.

[Vern]

Better turbo's out there brian!
I would look at the td04hl-19t or a holset hx30 and fueling. That fuel pump in the 6x6 will have a fuel rack limiter in it. Remove that and you cam get maximum fuel (180cc/1000 or around 300hp)😊

[rar110]

Is the td04 a MMC turbo? Should be good.

[Vern]

Can be, a few mobs make it.
Ideal one for the 4bd1 is td04hl-19t with 6cm housing.
The klr one is good, but as they told me, most people are just after a moderate tune, theres suits that.
I run the td04hl-19t on a 4bd1t with the fuel screw removed. The fuel rack limiter is still in place, i get very minimal smoke, egt's are good, and am getting just over half the pumps fuelling capabilities. Plan the remove the limiter and see how it goes.

[Bearman]

Better turbo's out there brian!
I would look at the td04hl-19t or a holset hx30 and fueling. That fuel pump in the 6x6 will have a fuel rack limiter in it. Remove that and you cam get maximum fuel (180cc/1000 or around 300hp)😊

Sort of shied off the TD04HL after seeing one disintegrate on a 6x6. Lucky he had an intercooler as all the compressor vanes ended up in there. Will have to investigate the fuel rack limiter thingo.

[Vern]

What brand td04hl-19t? Lots of brands out there

[Vern]

Its in there where my crappy red arrow is pointinghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/05/549.jpg

[Bearman]

What brand td04hl-19t? Lots of brands out there

Not sure which. Only know it was a Kinugawa TD04HL. Snapped the shaft when he gave it a bootfull overtaking and it went pop! when the compressor vanes parted company with the hub. I have a spare fuel pump sitting in the shed - will have to have a look at it when I have a bit of time to spare!! Thanks for that photo Damien.

[Vern]

Hmm wonder if he was getting enough oil to it. Mines the same brand, see's 30spi constantly.

[davesquirrel]

Finally got around to draining the front diff. and refilling with Castrol EPX. Stuff that came out was horrible.

Then discovered the battery I charged two weeks again was flat again despite not being hooked up. Voltmeter revealed 12.06v and then when I tried to start, 3.6.

Battery has been on charge overnight and a new one has been added to the shopping list.

Oh and hello btw. It's been a while...

[dranoweb]

I finally got around to adfing longer grease nipples to the front UJ's.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/541.jpg

Also changed steering box oil, removed rear wheel and cleaned out old oil buildup (aftermath of leaking drive flange). Topped up gearbox and transfer oil (think output shaft seal is leaking).
Found I had a half amp constand drain on the battery. I suspect i have a couple of non standard hella relays somewhere.

So I added an isolation awitch with a feed battery side for clock and solar.

Added a gme waterproof marine receiver.

Hit up all the grease nipples with ag grease.

Went for a test drive, hit a wallaby - went back and couldn't find it, no signs of damage.

noticed shift change difficulties when cold - using castrol gtx 15w40 synthetic in gearbox.

Im looking for gearbox oil reccomendations by the way.

[dranoweb]

And a few happy snaps from recent travels...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/532.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/533.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/534.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/535.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/536.jpg

[Mick_Marsh]

Went for a test drive, hit a wallaby - went back and couldn't find it, no signs of damage.
How do you know if you couldn't find it?

[dranoweb]

How do you know if you couldn't find it?
I saw it go under, and tumble out the back. Current theory is that the bash plate caused it to roll and it didn't collde with the undercarriage. I spent considerable time looking for it, fpund footprints in soft sand leading away.

[Bearman]

Just added this to mine after changing the diff ratios to 3.54.124231124232124233

[Bearman]

Goes a bit better now. Easily sits on 100k on the highway!!!

[Bearman]

I saw it go under, and tumble out the back. Current theory is that the bash plate caused it to roll and it didn't collde with the undercarriage. I spent considerable time looking for it, fpund footprints in soft sand leading away.

Bet he had a headache!!!!![tonguewink]

[dranoweb]

Cut some new floor mats tonight, out of recycled tire tray liner sheet. added some under the seats too. The ride is a little more quiet. Only took my daughter about an hour to cut them out.

Fyi - sheet size for under seat area is 15.5x18 inches.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/517.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/518.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/519.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/520.jpg

[Bearman]

What a little sweetie!

[rar110]

What Garrett turbo did you fit Brian? Looks good.

[Bearman]

What Garrett turbo did you fit Brian? Looks good.

I bought the KLR kit Pete. I think it's a GT2252. Compressor A/R .51, turbine .61. Runs about 13 psi at 100k and will get up to about 16-17 when you boot it.

[dranoweb]

After discovering that my transfer case was trading oil with the gearbox,
I corrected the levels (for now) and then
replaced the factory "polite metrosexual" hors with some cheap but effective air horns.

I then went for a camp/wood cutting expedition with my No #5 trailer.

After some reasonably undulating terrain, the extended grease nipples on the front cv's seem to be clearing the yokes just fine.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/339.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/340.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/341.jpg

[Britbobby]

124493Spent the day replacing the window felts in both door tops using the Garrison kit, also took care of some corrosion on the frames. The picture shows the completed project, now i have to paint the rest to match the frames.

[wpalmo]

Fitted a TM1 Engine Watchdog to the RFSV after reading a few testimonials on the forum. Nice little improvement and insurance policy incase of coolant or oil pressure failure hopefully. Just getting prepped up for a trip North in a couple of weeks. Looking forward to it.
Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/06/102.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/VR96TR)

[Bearman]

Spent a few days last week replacing the head gasket on the 6by. Was heading down to the Mods gathering in sth Qld but didn't quite make it. Got down near Rocky way and had a low water alarm. Pulled up to check and found water ****ing out of the overflow tank. Thought I must have had a malfunctioning thermostat so I pulled the guts out of it and fired her up again. About 20k's down the road it comes on again so I guessed it was the head gasket and turned around. By taking the cap off the expansion tank I managed to get home with only 1 stop to refill the radiator. Then tossed some of my camping gear in the Falcon ute and headed off again. When I pulled the head this is what I found. Had been leaking under compression between cyl's 2 and 3. The head was slightly warped up in the center so i had to get it shaved. Some of the head bolts in the center were noticeably looser than the others so I think this problem may have been caused by human error on the assembly line. With the low k's mine has done I am sure it hasn't been tampered with before. All good now - just did a 650k round trip and goes like a ripper!!!125252125253125254

[dranoweb]

Always sad to hear about issues like this. Makes me paranoid.

[Bearman]

It was a bit annoying I must admit as I love driving the beast, in comparison the XR ute has no soul!!! I have never had this problem with a 4BD1 before and I have put a lot of K's on 3 motors over the years. I am pretty sure it was because it wasn't torqued down properly. At least you can keep going with these motors. I probably could have done the whole trip if I could have put up with stopping every 150k's or so to refill the radiator!

[dranoweb]

Yeah I keep a full set of tools and parts on board just in case. My tom thumb pump leaked the other day and covered everything in oil, So i'm rethinking that a bit. That will be the day this happens lol.

[dranoweb]

Prepping for some time away. Still waiting on a center seat (someone beat me to the second handie). Traded a favor to fix my no5 trailer foot, and replaced rooten wooden tools with synthetic handled tools.
Replaced the jerry straps with camlocks too.

Had some fun with olive drab paint after taking a grinder to recut the edge on the axe to a useful angle.

Found a leaking swivel housing seal - leaking onto my break disc...
yay....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/417.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/418.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/419.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/420.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/421.jpg

[Dervish]

128269

A bit of yard work today; 48-010 and 205-108 helped to line an ephemeral creek in our yard with rock to stop erosion after big rainfall events. 5 trailer loads did it, although they were probably light loads - I have no idea what 750kg of granite looks like so we went easy.

[rathgar]

Put some number plates on it after 3 and a bit years of ownership.

Today

128501
When I got it
128502

[weeds]

Prepping for some time away. Still waiting on a center seat (someone beat me to the second handie). Traded a favor to fix my no5 trailer foot, and replaced rooten wooden tools with synthetic handled tools.
Replaced the jerry straps with camlocks too.

Had some fun with olive drab paint after taking a grinder to recut the edge on the axe to a useful angle.

Found a leaking swivel housing seal - leaking onto my break disc...
yay....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/417.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/418.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/419.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/420.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/421.jpg

Doesn't look like you put the little tab on the new stand that stops the stands from falling down while driving, this will stop you bending the new one.

[dranoweb]

I didn't manufacture the new one. The tab on the old one didn't fit the slot - leading to the bending event. I'm now in the habit of removing it entirely for long trips, hence the slightly shorter length.

[weeds]

I didn't manufacture the new one. The tab on the old one didn't fit the slot - leading to the bending event. I'm now in the habit of removing it entirely for long trips, hence the slightly shorter length.

Okeydoke......it's just a lot of people are surprised when the tab is pointed out....I repaired way too many.

[dranoweb]

Yeah I noticed that. I also had problems colliding with the corners. Took the opportunity to fix that too.

[dranoweb]

It's been another busy day today.
So much so that I'm going to do two posts to get round the photo limit.

I dragged out my no5 trailer and coated the tub with lanolin spray.
While that was drying i lined the tub with 8mm recycled tire rubber and cut to size.

My mate showed up with perfectly bent 6mm wall pipe, and I shortened it... a lot...
Fitted and waterproofed canvas from Robco Products.

Packed a bit more grease into the bearings while I was at it too.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/912.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/913.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/914.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/915.jpg

[dranoweb]

Also found some 3/8 bolts to make bung plugs with.

Then I noticed I had scored a bit of mould in the vehicle canvas.

A bit of elbow greaee with a stiff brush and then some watered down white vinegar to treat it.

Time will tell if the treatment advice is good. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/908.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/909.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/910.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/911.jpg

[Ashleylipus]

Dropped a few hundred on parts this week for the perentie. Ive had the work ute and its a perfect time to have the landy off the road for maintenance. List of things i got were..
Steering uni joints, mine were absolutely cactus.
All suspension bushes
Tie rod ends
Drop arm rebuilt kit
New flange and seal for the sals
headlights
Indicators front and side
Parkers
Ball joint for rear a frame and probably some other stuff that i cant remember. Ordered all parts throughout Lrdirect.
Also went to isuzu derrimut yesterday to get an oil pressure switch that was leaking badly, while i was there i picked up 2 oil filters, a fuel filter, rocker cover gasket and some little rubber seals for the bolts (planning to do valve clearances this week) new thermostat and gasket and some premixed coolant. Noticed a few issues lately which prompted me to get the stuff before they snowball. One was the leaking oil switch. Also noticed coolant in the reservoir has disappeared. Then yesterday i took the banjo bolt out from the fuel pump and found this

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/1034.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/08/1035.jpg
Looks like flaked paint from inside of jerry cans. So I'll be flushing the fuel system and taking a good look at the tank

[wpalmo]

Hi All,

Just got back from a week in the Murchison River area east of Kalbarri Western Australia. Beautiful this time of year. The RFSV and No5 trailer fitted with my roof top tent worked a treat. Had a great time just crawling through the amazing country on offer out there and making camp in some very pretty areas. It was the first time I had towed the No5 in serious 4WD country and I found out what most of you all know, that they are great tough little trailers and so easy to un-hitch and wheel around like a wheel barrow. The gearing on the RFSV really showed how well designed these vehicles are traversing effortlessly through both soft sand and rock outcrop country.

With a warm smile on my face, I take my hat off once again to the design team tasked with the job of 'Project Perentie' who created such a wonderful vehicle. I feel very fortunate to own one.

A couple of images from the trip below.

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/157.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YNZRiS)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/158.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Za4cyh)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/159.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Za4fnd)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/160.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/YbEeVK)

[robbo247]

Finally after (2 yrs putting off), got the rfsv licensed today, went to a rural inspection centre hoping for mercy...what a nightmare, the DOT transport mob, had this poor inspector/bloke confused as well, they emailed him a two page guide...on more law-full requirements , based on NT rules for WA... had to strip a lot of gear off....eg, tool bonnet brackets, side carry baskets, blackout switch,wanted the rear spare wheel assembly off..(couldn't get that off as it was welded..hahaha)...roller over bars needed 50mm padding, selt belts needed an engineers report..for the top mounting assembly, but let it go at the end....as this chap tried his best to talk to them(DOT)....

anyway, was thinking of putting everything back one day, but I don't know if it is ok to do this...wonder what the police will say?

a few years ago, I think it was easier to do this than today....they have really clamped down....whats the point of the army auctions then?

notice my first real drive back home, its needs better road tyres, as my back is done now....wore ear muffs as well...
I think I was getting around 15 lt/100 km's...need to verify this ....I thought perhaps it would get at least 11/100.

nice pics/work Warrick, what did you get.. litres/km's ..on your trip, does those tyres improve road handling...


thanks robbo

[wpalmo]

Finally after (2 yrs putting off), got the rfsv licensed today, went to a rural inspection centre hoping for mercy...what a nightmare, the DOT transport mob, had this poor inspector/bloke confused as well, they emailed him a two page guide...on more law-full requirements , based on NT rules for WA... had to strip a lot of gear off....eg, tool bonnet brackets, side carry baskets, blackout switch,wanted the rear spare wheel assembly off..(couldn't get that off as it was welded..hahaha)...roller over bars needed 50mm padding, selt belts needed an engineers report..for the top mounting assembly, but let it go at the end....as this chap tried his best to talk to them(DOT)....

anyway, was thinking of putting everything back one day, but I don't know if it is ok to do this...wonder what the police will say?

a few years ago, I think it was easier to do this than today....they have really clamped down....whats the point of the army auctions then?

notice my first real drive back home, its needs better road tyres, as my back is done now....wore ear muffs as well...
I think I was getting around 15 lt/100 km's...need to verify this ....I thought perhaps it would get at least 11/100.

nice pics/work Warrick, what did you get.. litres/km's ..on your trip, does those tyres improve road handling...


thanks robbo

Great news Robbo that you got your RFSV licensed. Bad news that it such a nightmare to do it. It sounds like it was easier a couple of years ago when I did mine. I drive around with the baskets on and tools on when I am heading out of town. So far so good. I did get mine licensed with everything on except the dickie seat which was the only thing I was asked to remove before it could be licensed. I haven't put it back in as it works better for me with out it for what I do anyway.

Yes the Wolf rims and BF Goodrich's are a great combination and improved the road handing, comfort and noise on my RFSV. Not cheap to do but if you are going to drive it a lot I think it is worth doing. I use mine a s a daily drive as well so it made sense to me to have a little more comfort. I get around 11 litres per 100kms. I only really sit on 90-95 kms an hour though.

Looking forward to seeing yours out on the road. It will be good to have another one getting around in the local area. One more image below from the Murchison trip below.

Regards Warrick.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/10/253.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/ZcQtSB)

[dranoweb]

I finally got the funds up to replace my stolen lightbar and 4G antenna. Mashed epoxy putty into the screw heads and used nylocks in hard to reach places. Even made a custom spanner for the job.

Painted odd green to damage resale value as well.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/809.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/810.jpg

Also designed myself an alarm using a tiny digispark module that detects wire cutting, canvas opening, doors, battery volts, and motion. Responds by triggering my wireless doorbell 15 seconds before sounding a 130db screamer.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/811.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/812.jpg

[67hardtop]

Well everyone, seeing as how ive got an ffr perentie, ARN 49 209, now, i should do some posting here. Pic of vehicle affectionatly known as the "Bush Pig", some Adelaidians have seen it getting around, including me. Long story short, it came up on scumtree for sale for a very reasonable price, so i bought it along with a 109 stage one 3.9 traytop.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/813.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/814.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/815.jpg

I now know why it was so cheap. It runs great but dont go coz the centre diff was in a cardboard box in the back. No prob i thought. Turns out the PO changed the gbox in Feb this year and fitted an early V8 range rover gbox to it. As a result i have no PTO to drive the front winch, and no manual diff lock as he must have left them on the box he pulled out thinking he wont need them. I do need them. Gonna try find out what happened to the original box if he answers the bloody phone. Grr.

Ok so today on my perentie i refitted the master cylinder reservoir that was not fitted coz the retainer bolt and seal was missing. Parts not available seperatly so i got the bolt from an old holden master cyl. Perfect. Filled with dot3 brake fluid. Pumped the pedal...felt weird. There was air in the system but still felt strange. So i bled the brakes. All good no air now but still felt strange. So i adjusted the rear shoes. Right side good. Left side no good, the rear brake adjuster was spinning around and around and doing nothing. So off with the wheel and drum. Wow. The rear sboe wasnt located on the bottom of the backing plate and so the shoe was still holding the wheel cylinder together but was actually doing no braking at all. So i refitted the shoe correctly and proceeded to check the adjuster was doing its job. Nope. So took the shoes off and noticed a bolt holding the snail cam onto the adjuster bolt. Loose. Tightened it up. Must be some army fix i spose. Refitted the shoes and drum and adjusted. All good. Refitted the wheel and tested the brakes. Pedal feels just like it should. Now just gotta sort the centre diff out.

Bought 4 counter sunk allen head bolts to hold the two halves of the centre diff housing together coz the PO just drilled them out coz he didnt have an allen key to fit. D'OH.. So i assembled the housing just to see how it goes tohether. Ive got a couple spacers that go somewhere but im not sure where. I need a proper diagram of an early rangey lt95 lsd centre diff. Will look around tonight on the web.

Chuffed i got the brakes sorted.

Cheers Rod

Ps LRRSA Christmas doo tonight and the last meeting of the year.

[dranoweb]

Well everyone, seeing as how ive got an ffr perentie, ARN 49 209, now, i should do some posting here. Pic of vehicle affectionatly known as the "Bush Pig", some Adelaidians have seen it getting around, including me. Long story short, it came up on scumtree for sale for a very reasonable price, so i bought it along with a 109 stage one 3.9 traytop.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/813.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/814.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/11/815.jpg

I now know why it was so cheap. It runs great but dont go coz the centre diff was in a cardboard box in the back. No prob i thought. Turns out the PO changed the gbox in Feb this year and fitted an early V8 range rover gbox to it. As a result i have no PTO to drive the front winch, and no manual diff lock as he must have left them on the box he pulled out thinking he wont need them. I do need them. Gonna try find out what happened to the original box if he answers the bloody phone. Grr.

Ok so today on my perentie i refitted the master cylinder reservoir that was not fitted coz the retainer bolt and seal was missing. Parts not available seperatly so i got the bolt from an old holden master cyl. Perfect. Filled with dot3 brake fluid. Pumped the pedal...felt weird. There was air in the system but still felt strange. So i bled the brakes. All good no air now but still felt strange. So i adjusted the rear shoes. Right side good. Left side no good, the rear brake adjuster was spinning around and around and doing nothing. So off with the wheel and drum. Wow. The rear sboe wasnt located on the bottom of the backing plate and so the shoe was still holding the wheel cylinder together but was actually doing no braking at all. So i refitted the shoe correctly and proceeded to check the adjuster was doing its job. Nope. So took the shoes off and noticed a bolt holding the snail cam onto the adjuster bolt. Loose. Tightened it up. Must be some army fix i spose. Refitted the shoes and drum and adjusted. All good. Refitted the wheel and tested the brakes. Pedal feels just like it should. Now just gotta sort the centre diff out.

Bought 4 counter sunk allen head bolts to hold the two halves of the centre diff housing together coz the PO just drilled them out coz he didnt have an allen key to fit. D'OH.. So i assembled the housing just to see how it goes tohether. Ive got a couple spacers that go somewhere but im not sure where. I need a proper diagram of an early rangey lt95 lsd centre diff. Will look around tonight on the web.

Chuffed i got the brakes sorted.

Cheers Rod

Ps LRRSA Christmas doo tonight and the last meeting of the year.
If you want to sell the winch, let me know.

[67hardtop]

I want to get it working again coz its part of the vehicle

[dranoweb]

No probs. I know where to get drive shatfs, uj's and captive bearings for them in any case.

[67hardtop]

Today i cleared some space on my little bench and got a tub and filled if halfway with old petrol and cleaned up all the centre diff parts i found in the box in the back of the perentie. Now gonna order some gaskets and get a couple bearings and seals to put it together if i can work out how it goes back together. I think i got it sussed but have a couple spacers that i dont know where they go. They dont seem to fit anywhere.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Bought new bearings, gaskets and seals for the centre diff and assembled it. Just gotta find out the crownwheel torque and then clean out the transfer case ready to put it together again.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Ok after a stupid mistake ive got the centre diff ready to refit. To get the clearance right i thought i needed a thinner shim. But the mistake i made was the bearing wasnt pressed all the way on. It was about 1mm too high, so i couldnt get the preload clearance correct. After rectifying the prob i re measured the clearance and found i needed a thicker shim than was fitted. Trouble is it wasnt available locally. So i used what brain i have left and got some shim steel and made a 10th shim spacer (.25mm). This brought the clearance up to spec. So ive fitted the shim and the .25mm shim i made and its all ready to assemble tomorrow weather permitting. Ive assembled both the front and rear centre diff housings and the hand brake assy ready. Just got to buy some hylomar tomorrow for the gaskets. Then ill see if the bush pig moves under its own steam...or diesel smoke. Woo hoo im excited.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Well i got the centre diff back together and fitted. Preload was good. Refitted the top pto plate with the bearing thingy. Fitted the front housing then tried to fit the diff lock housing. What a drama. Couldnt get the phillips head bolts in and tight. So i went and bought some allen key head bolts and with spring and flat washers (bolts were a tad long), i got it fitted. Fitted the bottom plate. I then drained the gear oil out of the box and filled it with 20w50 mineral oil as suggested. Filled the transfer with the same oil. Fitted hand brake linkage. Refitted vac hoses as they were b4 i took em off. Filled up the coolant, was a bit low, checked the oil. All good. Fired it up and finally i had movement at the gearbox. So i tested the gears, they all seem to work. Hi and low work. But i think ive found out what the original fault was. The vac hoses were fitted on the wrong nipples. The diff was locked when it was supposed to be unlocked. Might be the cause of the noises the PO was hearing. Anyway im gonna fit the tailshafts tomorrow and find out whats wrong with the clutch. The pedal feels wierd. Maybe it needs bleeding. Will look tomorrow. Its too dark and cold and raining now.
Happy with my progress today.

Cheers Rod.

Ps. brakes feel great.

[67hardtop]

Well today went as planned....not!
Cleaned out the back of the perentie and found the distribution box and 2 little seats and an ammo box and a few other little bits. I retrieved both the tailshafts. Thr rear uni joint on the back shaft was shot. Luckily i found a new o e in amongst all the rubbish and otjer stuff in the back. I fitted it. Good. I then fitted the rear shaft. Good. Went to fit the front shaft. No good. The front diff flange turns with both front wheels on the ground[emoji35]. Broken axle or diff. No crunchies when turned. Suspect axle and prob r/h front. Bugger. I bet its happened coz the diff lock was on all the time coz the vac pipes were fitted arse about. The OP prob didnt even know the front was broken. I bet thats why he pulled the centre diff apart coz he prob pulled the diff lock on, which was actually off, and the vehicle wouldnt move. That makes sense to me. Ill bet thats what happened. Will the problems ever end on this ****ed FFR? Well i guess i wont be driving it tomorrow. Ill have to move it back to get axcess to the left side just incase its the left axle. Hope its not too hard. Thats it for today on my perentie. At least all the floor panels were in the back and the gun thingy as well for the centre bit. I took about 20 meters of crappy added wiring off it as well. Tomorrow the horns on the front bar are going to the bin.

Cheers Rod

[Bearman]

Bloody hell Rod, have u run over a chinaman lately?
Normally it's the front RH axle that gives out first before a CV or CW&P. Easy way to remember which hose goes where is RED hose to the front or engaged side of the actuator.

[67hardtop]

Yeah thanks Brian. I think i must have. Ive got the gbox sorted now i think. Im gonna go and inspect...read take lots of pics... an FFR thats up for auction here in Adelaide tomorrow. Wish i could pinch the gbox out of it...lol. Interested to see whats the go with some things that are on mine. Just for interests sake and for at least some originality. Im hoping there are some parts up for auction. Thanks again for your help.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

That chinaman is really getting back at me now. Ive discovered that the left front axle is broken inside the diff. I cant get it out. Ive tried reversing the drive flange after removing the hub and stub axle. No good the cv just came off. So ive removed the swivel housing and it wont come off the axle coz there is a step in the axle. So ive tried using the swivel housing as a slide hammer. The axle wont come out of the diff. Now im really stuffed. I dont know what to do if i cant get this ****ing axle out!!!!

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Cut the axle off using my 9" angle grinder with a 12" cutting disc of my cutoff saw. Scarey but did the job.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/137.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/138.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/139.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/140.jpg
Managed to get the swivel housing off with the other stuff already off. Not sure what im a gonna do now. Might try to weld a nut onto it and screw in a slide hammer type arrangement and try get it out. If not then complete diff hub to hub will have to be gotten and fitted. TRS want $450. Might be the way to go...hmmm.

Still got a bargain tho i reckon😉.

Cheers Rod

[Bearman]

You sure are having a tough time with the "bush pig" mate. You could try removing the rh side at the joint and use a bit of steel rod to push the broken bit of axle out of the diff centre. I think about 6mm is the size so it will go past the cross pin in the diff centre.

[67hardtop]

Well ive tried this today. Hands are aching from slide hammering. Absolutely no luck at all. About to get the big hammer out now when the hands settle down a bit.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/171.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/172.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/173.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/174.jpg
I really hope i can get it out. But its not looking good at this stage.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

I now know what the tools on the bonnet are for....to bury the pile of crap WHEN it breaks down[emoji35] [emoji35] [emoji35] [emoji35] [emoji35]

[67hardtop]

Im unable to remove the axle. When i get the diff assy out im gonna cut into it and cut the axle off as close to the diff centre as i can and remove the diff and see whats happened. Just out of curiosity. Looks like ill be getting the complete diff from trs.
Wouldnt you know it...the only bolt the army didnt put anti sieze on and its siezed. The bloody panhard rod bush on the diff. Bolt siezed in the bush. Story of my bloody life. Every time i try to fix something on this bush pig and mostly everything i put a spanner on, someone hasnt done their job right and makes it hard for me. The ppl who work on cars after ive been on it must have it so easy.

It ****es me off greatly.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Got the diff housing out. Gonna work on the panhard bolt tomorrow and also cut the round cover off the front of the housing and see what the hell is going on in there. Ill post some pics when i can get to it.

Cheers Rod

[Bearman]

Most likely the axle has been twisted in the splined area where it goes into the side gear and locked there.

[67hardtop]

Well i cut the panhard off the housing. Gonna work on that soon.
I cut the front cover off the diff housing. Couldnt see much. So i cut the housing around and then cut the axle. I got the diff out. Gonna pull it apart a bit later on today. Just waiting for meter reader so i can lock up and go.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/196.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/197.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/198.jpg

See what the prob is a bit later. The diff looks to be in great condition actually. See if i can save it for a spare.
Replacement diff assy will be ready for pickup tomorrow morning from TRS.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Meter reader didnt turn up. Prob the wet weather had a lot to do with that. So last night i pulled the diff apart. Seems it wasnt long for this world anyway. The spider gears were worn as was the shaft. The carrier side bearings just about fell off. The actual gears were good as is the crown wheel and pinion. The broken bit of axle fell out as i expected it too. However the axle shaft piece, that i had to cut off to get the diff out, would not come out. It would never have come out the way it went in. I had to hit it with a 2lb hammer to get it out towards the inside of the diff centre. This is all a result of driveline wind up. The axle has actually grown over 2 mm in diameter where it broke off. Just where the twisted bit is. Ive never had this happen before. Ive broken many axles in holdens and just as many diffs and a couple diff housings ive also split in an HR holden. But ive always been able to pull the axles out. This is a first for me. Altho i didnt break it nor was i responsible for the breakage. Wow.
Ok im off to get my replacement diff. Also need the bushes for the arms as 3 of them are stuffed. Also the drop arm ball joint is loose so i spose ill have to get a rebuild kit for that too. I wonder whats next....

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Meter reader didnt turn up. Prob the wet weather had a lot to do with that. So last night i pulled the diff apart. Seems it wasnt long for this world anyway. The spider gears were worn as was the shaft. The carrier side bearings just about fell off. The actual gears were good as is the crown wheel and pinion. The broken bit of axle fell out as i expected it too. However the axle shaft piece, that i had to cut off to get the diff out, would not come out. It would never have come out the way it went in. I had to hit it with a 2lb hammer to get it out towards the inside of the diff centre. This is all a result of driveline wind up. The axle has actually grown over 2 mm in diameter where it broke off. Just where the twisted bit is. Ive never had this happen before. Ive broken many axles in holdens and just as many diffs and a couple diff housings ive also split in an HR holden. But ive always been able to pull the axles out. This is a first for me. Altho i didnt break it nor was i responsible for the breakage. Wow.
Ok im off to get my replacement diff. Also need the bushes for the arms as 3 of them are stuffed. Also the drop arm ball joint is loose so i spose ill have to get a rebuild kit for that too. I wonder whats next....

Cheers Rod

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/217.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/218.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/219.jpg

[67hardtop]

Went to TRS and picked up a front diff assy minus calipers. Looks like the PO had done it up recently. New bushes on the lower arms. New swivel seals and gaskets. Maxi drive flanges. Only bad thing was they cut the lower arms off. So i bought new bushes for the lower arms and promptly buggered one up pressing it in. Bought a new drop arm balljoint kit as well. Got a panhard rod bolt n nut. Just gotta put 2 more bushes in tomorrow and then fit the diff assy. Should be good. Heres hoping.

Cheers Rod

[Phil B]

Went to TRS and picked up a front diff assy minus calipers. Looks like the PO had done it up recently. New bushes on the lower arms. New swivel seals and gaskets. Maxi drive flanges. Only bad thing was they cut the lower arms off. So i bought new bushes for the lower arms and promptly buggered one up pressing it in. Bought a new drop arm balljoint kit as well. Got a panhard rod bolt n nut. Just gotta put 2 more bushes in tomorrow and then fit the diff assy. Should be good. Heres hoping.

Cheers RodWhat did it set you back Rod?

[rangieman]

What did it set you back Rod?
Maybe a left arm[bigwhistle]

[67hardtop]

$450. Cheap. Spent another $120 on bushes for the arms and a drop arm repair kit.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Ok got the diff fitted today..https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/256.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/257.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/258.jpg

Just gotta check and change the oils and then fit the drop arm kit...not done it b4. Then on with the wheels and back on the ground. I might take the maxidrive flanges off and refit the originals. Thats tomorrow...maybe...im buggered.

Cheers Rod

[Bearman]

Well done Rod. Get a diff guard as well - those pumpkin covers are as soft as hell. I would be refitting the standard drive flanges as well if it was mine.

[JDNSW]

I note you have it jacked under the chassis (as is needed to fit the axle assembly) - just a reminder not to tighten the panhard rod bushes until there is normal weight on the springs, otherwise the bushes will be short lived. (For others reading this thread even if you are well aware of it)

[67hardtop]

I note you have it jacked under the chassis (as is needed to fit the axle assembly) - just a reminder not to tighten the panhard rod bushes until there is normal weight on the springs, otherwise the bushes will be short lived. (For others reading this thread even if you are well aware of it)
Thanks John. The panhard rod bush bolts are still loose. Will be changing the oils in the diff and jacking the vehicle up on the diff then tightening them up with the weight on the the springs. Thanks for the reminder.

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Ok this bloody perentie isnt going to be fixed up without a fight. The drop arm replaceable ball joint is loose as. So of course i buy a rebuild kit. When i got the remnants of the joint out with a whole lot of rust dust, i couldnt work out why i wasnt able to put it back together. Ive never done one before nor have i even seen one. Im glad i have a die grinder. It seems the upper seat was rusted into the drop arm. So i ground it out on one side and was able to get it out. It fell out after i got a piece of it removed. Just gonna clean up the insides now and put it together with lots of grease. I cant work out why there is no grease nipple on this very important joint. Hmmm

Cheers Rod
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/273.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/274.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/275.jpg

[weeds]

I normally add a grease nipple.

[67hardtop]

What an absolute pain in the ass. Putting that drop arm kit in is a nightmare. I had to clean out the rusty "housing" of the arm. Then i had to hammer in the balljoint upper seat. Then of course i had to hold up the ball joint centre part while i assembled the lower parts with plenty of grease. Then to hard bit. Getting the circlip on. So with a bottle jack, a 6" socket extension, a brick, a shifter and punch under one end of the brick, to get the angle right, i got the cover in and located the circlip, or so i thought. The bloody clip came back at me at a rate of knots and it all dropped out on the ground. Grrr. So i lined it all up again and this time i made sure the circlip was seated in its groove. All good. Now the rubber boot. Hmmm. After some fiddling around i got it on with lots of grease under it. Hooked it all up. Good. Now to fill the diff and swivel housings up with oil. The left swivel had about half a litre in it but the right one was almost dry. Me thinks i may have a leak. The diff had been drained but i got some more out of it. Didnt like the sparkles in the old oil. Time will tell.

Cheers Rod.

Wheels on after oil and see if she drives. Ohh gotta tighten panhard bolts first.[emoji2]

[67hardtop]

Ok oil in, wheels on, off the stands and on the ground. Tightened the panhard rod bolts, thanks John, and see if it moves. Success. It lives. The Bush Pig lives. Well almost. Seems the clutch hydraulics are bypassing. Bit of a pump and it works. But hold it in too long and she creeps. Just another repair to do. Hmmm, will it ever end??

Cheers Rod

[67hardtop]

Continuing saga of the Bush pig. The clutch master cylinder is stuffed. Its bypassing. I think the PO must have rested his foot on the clutch while driving. The first 10 mm of stroke does nothing then it works but it creeps when depressed. So pedal out, master out. Got a new one now just gotta fit it. Bit hot out in the sun. Might fit it later. This FFR is gonna be like a new one by the time im finished fixing it.

Cheers Rod

[BadCo.]

Ok got the diff fitted today..

Just gotta check and change the oils and then fit the drop arm kit...not done it b4. Then on with the wheels and back on the ground. I might take the maxidrive flanges off and refit the originals. Thats tomorrow...maybe...im buggered.

Cheers Rod

I prefer the HD Flanges because they hold oil, unlike the dust caps on the original flanges.

If you still decide to get rid of them I'll trade you :D

[67hardtop]

Ive still got the standard flanges. Thanks for the offer tho.

Ok clutch master in. Pedal back in. Bled and functioning very well. Drove it a few feet forward and backwards. Cant get out of the driveway coz the Piglet 109 stage 1 diesel is behind it. Things are looking up a bit.

Cheers Rod

[Bearman]

Well done Rod, your patience must be wearing a bit thin by now!!!

[dranoweb]

After some, "light offroading" today, I decided it was time to drain the sump in my No 5 trailer. Discovered it takes about 5L... about the same as the empty bottle I found floating around inside.

PS: the wife is currently threatening to kill me because I'm washing oil affected objects in the washing machine...https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2017/12/329.jpg

[dranoweb]

That chinaman is really getting back at me now. Ive discovered that the left front axle is broken inside the diff. I cant get it out. Ive tried reversing the drive flange after removing the hub and stub axle. No good the cv just came off. So ive removed the swivel housing and it wont come off the axle coz there is a step in the axle. So ive tried using the swivel housing as a slide hammer. The axle wont come out of the diff. Now im really stuffed. I dont know what to do if i cant get this ****ing axle out!!!!

Cheers Rod
I had the same issue, I paid someone to fix it. They removed the entire housing and completely disassembled it.

My front right half shaft busted half way down and twisted off in the diff spider gear.

As I'm normally gentle (except for today), I suspect army abuse prior to my ownership.

[JDNSW]

After some, "light offroading" today, I decided it was time to drain the sump in my No 5 trailer. Discovered it takes about 5L... about the same as the empty bottle I found floating around inside.

Been there, done that - only the locker in the back of the 2a does not have a drain - kitty litter is very helpful!

PS: the wife is currently threatening to kill me because I'm washing oil affected objects in the washing machine...

Dishwasher does a better job on car parts.

[67hardtop]

Well done Rod, your patience must be wearing a bit thin by now!!!
Not yet Brian, but im getting a bit antsie coz I really want to drive it. Next is pulling the fuel tank out to find out whats wrong with it. The PO has fitted a big rectangular tank in the back behind the drivers seat and cut a flap in the canvas to get to the filler cap. The fuel tank in it looks like it came out of the 109, its painted pink, and the tank that was in it is damaged as well, its got the "safe fording depth" stencils painted on it, so he put the truck tank in. When I found the cost of a replacement tank, I know why the truck tank[emoji47].
Looks like the brackets are loose as well so ill wait till its not so hot in the sunshine b4 I look at a solution.

Cheers Rod

[rar110]

The under seat tank is not a great design when it’s filled from the bottom and 1/3 of the tank is above the fill point. It probably works better on the 2 door version. A steel fabricator will make a slightly heavier better tank than a new one. In saying that the old tank should be easily reparable. I used Redkote to seal the inside of mine about 5 years ago when it had multiple leak points.
Alternatively buy a plastic tank being sold on here by someone.
I had a crack in the return line at the top of the tank. I also had a crack where the steel filler tube but joined the tank. Both not great quality. I had multiple leaks along the seam joining the top and bottom half of the tank. I can’t blame the army for those problems. The tank was new when I rebuilt the 110.

[Phil B]

I had to replace the tank on my FFR as the old one was rusted through between the bottom and the bash plate
I had a standard tank filler point modified to fit by KLR
Fitted myself no leaks since

[67hardtop]

Took the Bush Pig for a quick drive up and down the street last night. Now i have a red light up on the dash. Dont know what it is coz all the little pictures are worn off the fascia. Probably be expensive. At least the Pig went well...

Cheers Rod

[Mick_Marsh]

Was your handbrake fully down?

[67hardtop]

Yep. No hand brake light anyway. Not connected. Oil press not connected nor is the diff lock light. Prob the alternator. Just my luck.

Cheers Rod

[BadCo.]

Yep. No hand brake light anyway. Not connected. Oil press not connected nor is the diff lock light. Prob the alternator. Just my luck.

Cheers Rod

What was the volt gauge reading?

[67hardtop]

What was the volt gauge reading?
Its got a volt gauge?

Ill have to look next time I start it...lol

[67hardtop]

Its got a volt gauge?

Ill have to look next time I start it...lol
Yep got a volt gauge. Its still charging at 14 volts when the light comes on. It only comes on infrequently. I regoed it this afternoon and took it for a drive. Boy was i getting some looks with the pig on the bonnet. Its gotta come off. Dont need attention from the boys in blue atm. The floor isnt secured and the brake pedal has a little too much travel for my liking. Brakes work great tho. Hand brake is another matter. Its got a RR hand brake assy so its not real flash. Needs adjusting yet. I noticed a stick floating in the fuel tank when i checked the level b4 i went for a drive. Im not worried about it. Shouldnt affect anything for a while. Drives good too. Hmmm, do i sell it or keep it.

Cheers Rod

[BadCo.]

Yep got a volt gauge. Its still charging at 14 volts when the light comes on. It only comes on infrequently. I regoed it this afternoon and took it for a drive. Boy was i getting some looks with the pig on the bonnet. Its gotta come off. Dont need attention from the boys in blue atm. The floor isnt secured and the brake pedal has a little too much travel for my liking. Brakes work great tho. Hand brake is another matter. Its got a RR hand brake assy so its not real flash. Needs adjusting yet. I noticed a stick floating in the fuel tank when i checked the level b4 i went for a drive. Im not worried about it. Shouldnt affect anything for a while. Drives good too. Hmmm, do i sell it or keep it.

Cheers Rod

Foot brake light? Vacuum or fluid level? I can't remember what it does.

[Gordie]

Boy was i getting some looks with the pig on the bonnet. Its gotta come off. Dont need attention from the boys in blue atm. Cheers RodDress it up in a nice little uniform...be sure to get some attention then! [tonguewink]