What did you do on your Perentie Today. [Archive] - Page 5

Carzee

7th February 2016, 07:20 PM

This week...

Blinker hassle; bridged the hazard light switch plug. Trying alternative switches this coming week.

Camping disease; went camping at Blue Waterholes, on the Long Plain Road/Track, Kozy National Park.

It was good to finally get there after wanting to go for the last 2 years. I'm rapt - its a good -uncrowded- place (outside of school hols) and it was clean. Stars were as clear and bright as I have ever seen. The morning was nice and foggy. Some Brumbys woke us in the wee hours, but otherwise the local fauna were good too.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/690.jpg

Album
https://goo.gl/photos/mNwEFNc9RGMHoCV8A

JDNSW

8th February 2016, 05:31 AM

........ I'm wrapped -......

I think you may mean "rapt"?

John

(Apologies to Ron for usurping his role)

Chris078

11th February 2016, 08:17 PM

Put a new alternator in.

It rewarded me by setting itself on fire :evil:,

Purely co-incidental to the alternator I think; one of the lines from the dimmer switch decided to commit seppuku. Not sure if it's the input or output line yet. release a great cloud of smoke/flame from the box in the middle of the dash before I shut it off.
Pulled the cover and yup, the insulation for the cable has fried all the way back to the firewall (and probably beyond).
I assume I'll have to pull the airbox and the harness cover behind it to find where it shorted. Does anyone know
A) what colour that wire is supposed to be and
B) does it go to a plug somewhere and then split off to the instrument lights?

ergh. I love this thing, but the little things are starting to add up and get on my goat a bit:mad:.

Mick_Marsh

11th February 2016, 08:30 PM

The wiring diagrams are available on REMLR.

I've been printing them out on A1.

dranoweb

18th February 2016, 07:47 PM

Switched over the pintle to a combination pintle/ball hitch.
Just need to sort out an adaptor from the NATO plug to 7 pin & can tow anything :)

Ok, so I just realized I need one of these in my life more than chocolate and coffee...

Where would one find such a wonderous device?
I'd like to tow a normal trailer, and still like to keep the option of moving pintle hitch stuff for the museum.

dranoweb

18th February 2016, 08:08 PM

I have had ongoing works on my Peretie each night after work for weeks now.

Today, the canvas showed up, same day the roadworthy was due.
Purchased from "Landybitzau" for $1800 - and it's spot on 1 for 1 like the original.

Got my list of repairs to make in 7 days - they are as follows:

1: "remove lucas mode" was the mechanic's exact words, by this he meant remove all the blackout and minimal lighting.
(my father being an ex auto-elec had to explain that to me - lucas "prince of darkness")

2: replace both headlights (reflectors flaking)

3: repair RHS door hinge - rattled loose - easy fix

4: gearbox rear oil leak - minor weeping in the bell housing. not getting worse, may simply need clean.

5: clean engine oil off engine after oil change - (what cranially challenged engineer situated the filter upside down? I mean Really?)

6: LHS seat bolt (this rattled loose on the way to the roadworthy. Needs a new bolt and a big washer)

7: number plate light globe

8: LHS rear outer axle oil leak - (I'm informed I can remove this and reseal with oil resistant RTV silicone gasket maker)

9: Remove blackout cover on dash lights (for safety reasons)

I may have worked a compromise on the blackout mode, that I can solve electrically - that may mean I get to keep the fittings attached.

Photos of the canvas replacement - with the aid of senior consultant and junior apprentice:

Before:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/334.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/335.jpg
Top removed:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/336.jpg

A bit of light dusting to do:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/337.jpg

Unpacking the new canvas - carefully:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/338.jpg

Canvas going on:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/339.jpg

Inspection time:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/340.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/341.jpg

Ladder height view:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/342.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/343.jpg

And initial soaking to help shrink and waterproof it.

I'll add a quality treatment after a couple of soakings.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/344.jpg

Carzee

18th February 2016, 09:56 PM

Snap, I put on a new canopy last month. I like the playpen idea - LRs are so utilitarian.

ps, what is the red thing attached to the fuel filler cap?

BadCo.

19th February 2016, 04:13 AM

5: clean engine oil off engine after oil change - (what cranially challenged engineer situated the filter upside down? I mean Really?)

Probably the same cranially challanged engineer that put a drain bung on the filter housing ;)

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dranoweb

19th February 2016, 09:13 AM

Drain plug you say?
I'll go look that up. I still disagree with the design.

Red thing on the fuel cap is a padlock. I'll take a picture later and post it.

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Chris078

20th February 2016, 09:30 AM

Drain plug you say?
I'll go look that up. I still disagree with the design.

Red thing on the fuel cap is a padlock. I'll take a picture later and post it.

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The other thing you can do to reduce the mess:
1. when draining, loosen the filter slowly until you get a bit of oil coming out the thread, then quickly tighten about 1/4 turn.
Then remove the oil sump plug. while oil is draining from the sump, slowly loosen the filter until you hear it suck air. This allows the oil in the filter to be pulled out as the oil drains out.

2. When installing the new filter, just half fill it with oil instead of completely filling it. I've found I can quickly flip over and install a half full filter before it makes a mess. You do need to be careful to make sure you don't cross thread it. Just make sure the oil light goes out within 5 seconds of starting it the first time. If it does not, you have an airlock and need to re-install the filter (apparently anyway, I've changed my oil 3 times using this method and it hasn't happened to me yet).

nice to learn about the drain bung. Never looked for one, just assumed it was mess makin' time!

Dervish

20th February 2016, 10:57 AM

BadCo.

20th February 2016, 11:00 AM

The other thing you can do to reduce the mess:
1. when draining, loosen the filter slowly until you get a bit of oil coming out the thread, then quickly tighten about 1/4 turn.
Then remove the oil sump plug. while oil is draining from the sump, slowly loosen the filter until you hear it suck air. This allows the oil in the filter to be pulled out as the oil drains out.

2. When installing the new filter, just half fill it with oil instead of completely filling it. I've found I can quickly flip over and install a half full filter before it makes a mess. You do need to be careful to make sure you don't cross thread it. Just make sure the oil light goes out within 5 seconds of starting it the first time. If it does not, you have an airlock and need to re-install the filter (apparently anyway, I've changed my oil 3 times using this method and it hasn't happened to me yet).

nice to learn about the drain bung. Never looked for one, just assumed it was mess makin' time!

Or drill a hole in the top of the filter. No need to put oil in the filter either, just pop the EDIC fuse and crank it until you get pressure.

dranoweb

20th February 2016, 08:18 PM

something must be a little different for me as the air intake hose sits on top of my oil filter.

It made getting the filter removal tool in there a little difficult.

In other news however; (and thanks for the useful tips too)

Today I managed to change the last of my oils - front and rear diff, greased inner and outer nipples on all uni joints.

removed, repaired, and refitted RLHS drive flange (had to use 8.8 ton rated bolts till I can get some 9.5's on monday)

bypassed the blackout switch (temporary)

replaced headlights with sealed beams

replaced an indicator lense

rewired the interior light, and replaced with modded LED (shown below)
and glad to see it actually works now

fixed my washer nozzles.

replaced my wipers arms and blades.

replaced the speedo backlight

pressure washed the engine bay and grease splatter from 20 years of over greased uni joints.

engine, transfer and gearbox oils were all done last week.

checked oil in ball joints (looks like I'm full of one shot grease now)

Only thing left now, is pull the tail shaft off, and rip out that felt washer in the handbrake drum area and seal it up with gasket goo.

with luck, I'll be roadworthy shortly.

FYI - LED mod:
modules available from jaycar stores for about $10 (much brighter than the 60c ones from china). They are not polarity sensitive.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/230.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/02/231.jpg

Lotz-A-Landies

20th February 2016, 09:49 PM

Today I replaced the internal door trim/padding on the front doors. The trim was missing so I bought sufficient off the roll from Daley's - Home (http://www.daleys.com.au/) which looks to be exactly the same as the original.

I then removed the glass from the drivers door top and re-sealed it into the runner. While I had the glass out I decided to remove the felts stretch them a little to return them to their original length and then replaced them reversed. Much improved for no cost.
After that job I cut the base of the tongue on the sliding window lock mechanism and inserted a packing piece to engage the lock further into the glass. The result is that the mechanism now locks the window. :)

May install the missing operator seat and several of the radio tables tomorrow.

dranoweb

21st February 2016, 12:06 AM

Some nifty tricks.
I've been looking at the window locks wondering if they can be improved.

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wpalmo

21st February 2016, 08:42 AM

Or drill a hole in the top of the filter. No need to put oil in the filter either, just pop the EDIC fuse and crank it until you get pressure.
Hi Badco,
Just wondering where is the EDIC fuse located?
Regards Warrick.

Mick_Marsh

21st February 2016, 02:02 PM

Hi Badco,
Just wondering where is the EDIC fuse located?
Regards Warrick.
On the 6x6 it's an in line fuse behind or near the clutch reservoir. I assume it would be similar in a 4x4.

wpalmo

21st February 2016, 03:41 PM

Thanks Mick. Yes it is right where you said on the 4x4 too. 10 AMP spade fuse.
Changing oil today at 20 646 kms on the clock.
Regards Warrick.

dranoweb

25th February 2016, 11:59 AM

I finally got my RWC this morning.
had to sacrifice all military lights and bonnet tool holders, including the riveted ones....

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Barefoot Dave

25th February 2016, 01:03 PM

I finally got my RWC this morning.
had to sacrifice all military lights and bonnet tool holders, including the riveted ones....

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

Good news and not so good together!
Don't fill the holes or sell the brackets just yet. Very close to a solution for you and others.

dranoweb

25th February 2016, 03:05 PM

I tend to hang onto these things.
I plan to get some touch up paint and do some work on the bonnet - and find some legal way to refit them.

Same as the blackouts.

I work for a military museum - so it may end up on a vintage club registry.

For now at least - rego appointment 3pm tomorrow. Should have plates soon if all goes to plan.

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Barefoot Dave

28th February 2016, 02:05 PM

Not mine and it was last weekend, but...
Prepping a S3 tropical roof and sides for a new Perentie life. Tutorial soon and roof for sale.
Also getting the 'Civvy Peretie' ready for sale, see markets;

Lotz-A-Landies

29th February 2016, 11:59 AM

...
May install the missing operator seat and several of the radio tables tomorrow.Well it didn't get done last week, but yesterday I did fit the second operators seat then matched all the camo paint lines on the antenna brackets and then fitted up a couple of MX-6707 ATU for the GRC-160 and AB-652/GR for the GRC-106 (the second one paired with an RFI CDQ-5000 for the Icom 450N).

Didn't get time to fit any of the tables, but am wondering if I'll mount two tables for the VHF sets or double stack them?

Barefoot Dave

29th February 2016, 01:56 PM

As with a fez, stacks are cool ;)

Lotz-A-Landies

29th February 2016, 02:07 PM

a double stack of GRC-160/VRC-524 would be about the same height as the GRC-106.

The problem with the Perentie is that (unlike the SIII FFR) is that you can't mount a pair of tables on the LHS without first moving the power distribution box, and (while it's not strictly military) I'd like to leave a space on the RHS so I can carry my small Engel fridge which is about the same size as one of the radio tables.

Lotz-A-Landies

29th February 2016, 02:11 PM

I finally got my RWC this morning.
had to sacrifice all military lights and bonnet tool holders, including the riveted ones....

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile appWhich riveted ones?

Did they make you remove the windscreen rests? Surely these are part of the vehicle and not for optional equipment?

dranoweb

29th February 2016, 02:43 PM

Only attachment I was allowed was the end of the shovel holder, as it "looks like a bonnet handle"

Classified as "protruding edges"

All the same, the bolts were loose and the grit and gavel was destryoing my already bent and damaged bonnet.

Got some work to do first. They may reappear one night about mignight...

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Carzee

29th February 2016, 08:50 PM

Could be the drugs talking, but is there anyway you can fit the same brackets using the same holes -under- the bonnet? Is there engine clearance? Can the wood handles take the engine heat?

Lotz-A-Landies

29th February 2016, 09:18 PM

The Brits mount their gardening tools on the tailgate. Not much use on an FFR though. The other option is to mount them like the SIIa FFT where the tools were mounted behind the front seats (the same brackets are fixed to a couple of mounting bars).

dranoweb

29th February 2016, 09:23 PM

With the 4BD1 deisel under there, not much room. Current plan is to put them back.
A few defenders getting round with thr same and they have had no troubles.

If in the unlikely event i strike a pedestrian, I've far bigger issues to be worried about.

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Lotz-A-Landies

2nd March 2016, 12:00 PM

The courier delivered my new Icom 450-N this morning.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/858.jpg

Now I'm wondering if I should bury the unit inside the dash or mount it on the transom behind one of the front seats?

The set comes with an extension for the mic/display unit so you can mount the unit anywhere within the length of the extension. I like the idea of having non-military items hidden from view.

juddy

2nd March 2016, 12:45 PM

Looks good that unit.

Lotz-A-Landies

2nd March 2016, 01:09 PM

I like the idea of the remote control microphones it allows you a lot more options for mounting the unit. A particularly important issue with modern vehicles and as I mentioned when you don't want an obvious civilian radio in a military vehicle.

I have similar GME remote control mic radios in my Disco4 and my SIII FFR. In relation to this set, I feel that Icom is a reliable brand for CB and Amateur radios so willing to give them a trial.

(Have been thinking about installing one inside the housing of a PRC-10 for fitting to my SIIA gun buggy!)

Barefoot Dave

2nd March 2016, 02:01 PM

Diana, considering the water ingres issues under the dash, I'd go behind.
icom cop a flogging from ES's and keep on going!

isuzutoo-eh

2nd March 2016, 08:06 PM

My Icom IC440 Pro is mounted behind the passenger seat, and uses the 24V system. Well, it did, until I sunk it on the Balfour track. Now it smells like corroded electronics.

Lotz-A-Landies

2nd March 2016, 08:35 PM

My Icom IC440 Pro is mounted behind the passenger seat, and uses the 24V system. Well, it did, until I sunk it on the Balfour track. Now it smells like corroded electronics.May pop down to Jaycar and look for a waterproof housing after hearing your issues. Was heading there for a housing for the auxiliary 12V supply outlets and fuses.

dranoweb

2nd March 2016, 09:12 PM

Get a GME TX 3100 and mount it up high.

On an unrelated not:
Finally got a little time off road on way home from my second job (fire spotting)
Got to check low range and transfer lock on some soft ground.

Nothing hardcore but only had it a month, takes a little getting used to.

Bit of video forvthe curious:

https://youtu.be/nS6u4iAqkuY

when I first picked it up, I took a leg of the journey via ferry - also a first for me.

Found that the roof racks are 20mm higher than the light fittings.

https://youtu.be/njdnDCa1ib8

https://youtu.be/ApYQBjsuOgg

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Lotz-A-Landies

3rd March 2016, 10:24 AM

Get a GME TX 3100 and mount it up high.

I already have 3 GME radios* and the TX3100 comes back to the issue that you have a civilian unit that has to be mounted in a location where you can see the face and therefore everyone can see it.

With the remote control mic you can have the unit hidden and remove the microphone when its on display.

* GME TX3345 in my SIII FFR and Disco4 plus a GME hand held
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/840.jpg

dranoweb

3rd March 2016, 10:54 AM

I work for a communication company. I get to play with alot of these. The remote mount units are great.

I suggested the TX3100 as its tiny, and if you mount it high like on the roll bar, flooding the perentie is far less likely to drown it.

Personally, I don't need to look at the face of any of my radio's while driving. In cases where I do, I usually have a co-driver to handle comms for me.

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wpalmo

6th March 2016, 07:56 AM

Finally got around to fitting some Wolf rims and 255/85R16 Mud Terrains to my No5. Same wheels and tyres all around now. Should be good for tyres for a while if I rotate them every 6 months!
Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/765.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EQyDVi)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/766.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/EJ9Knb)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/767.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/DWUQas)

Barefoot Dave

6th March 2016, 10:28 AM

Looking good, mate!

Carzee

6th March 2016, 07:11 PM

Thats a first I think, M/Ts on the trailer!

Love the PR cam scheme too.

dranoweb

6th March 2016, 07:59 PM

Today's list included:

tighten drive flange bolts - may need to replace them and the flange seal soon.

Remove and inspect door tops.

Remove inspect and repair window locks - increased locking force.

Replace window felts

Discover overuse of silicone responsible for door tops acting as water tanks.

Inspect and assess output shaft seal - marked for replacement when not so hot.

Fish oil all rusty underbody parts

Fish oil engine bay and firewall.

Clean and repaint bonnet surface exposed after removal of bonnet clamps in prep for reinstallation.

Discovered broken wire to brake pad wear indicator.

Fitted new Roof Rack rubbers

Repositioned canvass

Fitted LED strip in canopy with tailgate switch

Replaced interior light with LED based Frankenstein-like creation.

Replaced a few corroded fuses

Replaced a handfull of corroded push connectors.

Found Olive Drab paint at Aussie disposals - matches bull bar, nothing else.

Arranged to have bull bar soda blasted for repainting.

Posted a tutorial here:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/232937-perentie-window-felt-how-replace.html

Door top pics:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/742.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/743.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/744.jpg

Lotz-A-Landies

7th March 2016, 04:31 PM

Looking at that door top stud, I think I'll be adding grease door-top bolts to my To-Do list.

It's a pity that stainless steel reacts so aggressively with aluminium or I'd be replacing them with SS.

dranoweb

7th March 2016, 04:43 PM

I put it under the wire wheel. it's not much of a bolt anymore.

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Bush Animal

9th March 2016, 06:07 PM

I finally pulled that stupid Frontline Machinery badge of the front guard .No use giving frontline any free advertising it is bad enough having buy the Perentie from them.A hair dryer and a bit of heat gets them of easy. The Bush Animal.

mick88

10th March 2016, 06:27 AM

Nice looking outfit walpro!
What was the reason for the RFSV having a higher roofline than the other Perentie variants?

Cheers, Mick.

juddy

10th March 2016, 07:17 AM

Rear seating.

Mick_Marsh

10th March 2016, 08:25 AM

Nice looking outfit walpro!
What was the reason for the RFSV having a higher roofline than the other Perentie variants?

Cheers, Mick.
The cupola.

Lotz-A-Landies

10th March 2016, 03:20 PM

The cupola.??? Did they have a cupola? :confused:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/624.jpg

Or just an observation port?

Mick_Marsh

10th March 2016, 03:52 PM

??? Did they have a cupola? :confused:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/624.jpg

Or just an observation port?
I thought they could be fitted, much like the SRV.

Lotz-A-Landies

10th March 2016, 04:10 PM

There's a bloke up here in Sydney with a Saracen/Ferret Mk2 cupola mounted on a SIIa 88". It drops down for travel and is mainly up there for display and give kiddies something interesting.

I believe that he plans to build a Shoreland replica, hence the cupola.

Barefoot Dave

10th March 2016, 09:28 PM

Mick, as Juddy says, the RFSV roofline is a product of a centrally placed rear facing seat for the patrolman.
No potential for a gun ring and certainly not a cupola. Not even a pintle mount for a mmg!
The SRV has a gun ring a little heavier duty than that found on the roof of a 6x6 iimv (troopcarrier).

dranoweb

12th March 2016, 04:09 PM

My efforts this saturday so far have been:

Water proof canvas.
(Up at 4am for 80mm downpour to check for leaks in house and perentie)

Discovered water leaking through foot pedal holes and passenger foot well.

Un-bent roof rails and secured them with nylocks.

Positioned canvas correctly on sides.

Gasket gooed damaged upper door seals.

Discovered water leaking inside from door tops. Ex-mil mechanic suggested drilling drain holes and plugging factory ones.

Refitted windscreen mounts after some tlc.

Purchased sand blasting kit and 10kg of garnet for bullbar repaint.

Discovered crack in bonnet. Arranged a favor to get it welded.

Adjusted tail gate.

Two more tins of fish oil into hard-to-reach rusty areas.

Roof rack rubbers replaced and resealed.

Bonnet rubbers ordered.

Still have not replaced output shaft seal. Weather has been too poor.

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dranoweb

13th March 2016, 03:47 PM

Dropped into the Gippsland Armed Forces Museum today (of which I am a volunteer) and borrowed tge work-for-the-dole slave and removed the bull bar for a sand blast and re-paint.

Still got more paint to do and a seccond coat. The paint was setting the second the brush hit. Maybe some thinners next coat.

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dranoweb

14th March 2016, 05:47 PM

Also replaced output shaft seal today.

Wrote a tutorial on it (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/233294-your-handbrake-drum-leaking-oil.html) for those who wish to tell me where I went wrong.

dranoweb

15th March 2016, 05:41 PM

Beginning to feel like I'm spamming this thread.

Did no one work on their perentie over the long weekend?

I also just did the bonnet bushes.
deceptively simple things.

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Mick_Marsh

15th March 2016, 06:02 PM

Beginning to feel like I'm spamming this thread.
I looked at it, from a distance.

No. I lie. I replaced a front parking light the weekend before so, the weekend just gone, I replaced the stainless steel screws I used with plated screws.

BadCo.

15th March 2016, 06:08 PM

Beginning to feel like I'm spamming this thread.

Did no one work on their perentie over the long weekend?

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

It was only a short weekend here but I am saving up all my issues for winter when I can be bothered fitting Hank in the garage.

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Lotz-A-Landies

15th March 2016, 08:20 PM

It was only a short weekend here but I am saving up all my issues for winter when I can be bothered fitting Hank in the garage.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using AULRO mobile appNormal weekend here too. But I did fit the Icom 450N ( UHF CB ) and a couple of power outlets, one in the side of the FFR dash console and one in the tub. Didn't do the dual battery setup though.

But unfortunately I think someone has stolen the whole vehicle. :(

dranoweb

15th March 2016, 08:32 PM

Hey that reminds me - does anyone have any original FFR antenna mounts they wish to part with?

JCR

16th March 2016, 05:35 PM

What?!? Really Lotz-A-Landies?!? It's my biggest fear, I just figure that they won't get too far in a hurry...

Mick_Marsh

16th March 2016, 05:49 PM

But unfortunately I think someone has stolen the whole vehicle. :(
I think I saw pictures of someone paddling it in the river.

dranoweb

16th March 2016, 07:11 PM

I think I saw pictures of someone paddling it in the river.
Sounds ominous.

You do know they aren't amphibious right?

I managed to accidentally win myself a radiator and injectors at the AFM auctions today.

well, I have a few dings in my current radiator anyway, and $39 was a cheap set of spare injectors I guess.

would have liked the alternator and starter more though.

Mick_Marsh

16th March 2016, 07:54 PM

You do know they aren't amphibious right?
They're not?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/460.jpg

dranoweb

16th March 2016, 08:06 PM

They're not?

EG: They don't float.

EG: amphibious vehicle - reasonable boyancy:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/459.jpg

EG: Not amphibious - boyancy of a brick:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/456.jpg

I know not specifically a Perentie - but it floats just like one.

dranoweb

16th March 2016, 08:09 PM

I will add, however, that it is quite difficult to find images of bogged or drowned perenties.

Wether that be because they just don't get bogged or drowned, or because most of that happens in places and operations the public don't get to hear about.... I don't know.

Mick_Marsh

16th March 2016, 08:19 PM

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/456.jpg
Looks like a discovery
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/457.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/458.jpg

Of course, if you want to do some surf fishing, a 101 is the go.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=106994&stc=1&d=1458123545

dranoweb

16th March 2016, 08:34 PM

Yes I think it was a disco, I was reading an article about it a while back.
it turned me off buying a used disco, and got a Perentie instead.

Weren't the British experimenting with retractable cloth pontoons on the sII's or SIII's? at one stage?

so they could float them across the channel?

I believe they even had a prop driven from the pto.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/03/455.jpg

Lotz-A-Landies

16th March 2016, 09:11 PM

What?!? Really Lotz-A-Landies?!? It's my biggest fear, I just figure that they won't get too far in a hurry...Actually it was parked in the Chook Shed Annex, and Geoff "The Booger" got into the one on the right and drove it to Corowa Swim-In instead of getting into his SIII which was parked on the left next to my Perentie! :)

The fact that it went was only confirmed today, but was an offer of mine if he had problems with the SIII.

(We share lock up storage for our military Landies. My Perentie has an ignition/steering lock as well as door locks, but being a soft top it won't slow them up too much.)

Chris078

17th March 2016, 07:59 AM

Sounds ominous.

You do know they aren't amphibious right?

I managed to accidentally win myself a radiator and injectors at the AFM auctions today.

well, I have a few dings in my current radiator anyway, and $39 was a cheap set of spare injectors I guess.

would have liked the alternator and starter more though.

I got a new Alternator installed not long ago for less than $500. Not genuine, it's one off a Patrol iirc, but it's 70 amp, has a larger vacuum pump, 75cc Vs 50cc, and it fits. I'll dig up the brand/part number if your interested.

JCR

17th March 2016, 08:52 AM

Ha, well that's a better outcome then Lotz-A, It is more a deterrant for a kid trying to have some fun than someone that actually wants to steal it!

dranoweb

17th March 2016, 09:32 AM

I got a new Alternator installed not long ago for less than $500. Not genuine, it's one off a Patrol iirc, but it's 70 amp, has a larger vacuum pump, 75cc Vs 50cc, and it fits. I'll dig up the brand/part number if your interested.

Thanks. I'll be adding some extras so a little more power will help.

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Chris078

18th March 2016, 09:29 AM

Thanks. I'll be adding some extras so a little more power will help.

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I should say, 70Amp is what the stock (Army)alternator is. Which is 30 Amps more than the civilian model and should be more than ample to run many, many accessories.

yet to dig out the receipt, give me a bit for that part number

dranoweb

18th March 2016, 12:03 PM

My little rice burner has an 80amp in it along with an N70ZZ battery.

I have considerable power demands lol.

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Chris078

18th March 2016, 03:01 PM

My little rice burner has an 80amp in it along with an N70ZZ battery.

I have considerable power demands lol.

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Fair enough. New cars have massive electrical demands. The Perentie by comparison has almost nothing. I reckon with 70A you'd have a fair amount of leeway before you run out of juice.

dranoweb

18th March 2016, 03:08 PM

Yeah the xtrail has an electromagnetically engaged viscous transfer case lock.
pulls about 40a when engaged, but allows variable torque distribution.

So, that means no 4x4 engaged with 720watts of headlights on at the same time.

Have cooked brushes at least once.
And no... I was well off the beaten track. I try to be sensible and respectful on the hard top.

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Chris078

19th March 2016, 11:11 AM

So, that means no 4x4 engaged with 720watts of headlights on at the same time.

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Are you trying to illuminate the moon! 720 watts of headlights! That's 60 Amps. you don't need a second battery, you need a second alternator!

Maybe change to some LED driving lights. Probably cheaper than a dual battery & upgraded alternator.

dranoweb

19th March 2016, 11:17 AM

Are you trying to illuminate the moon! 720 watts of headlights! That's 60 Amps. you don't need a second battery, you need a second alternator!

Maybe change to some LED driving lights. Probably cheaper than a dual battery & upgraded alternator.

well... 240 watts is the led component,
200 watts for halogens,

120 watts for factory foggers

120 watts for factory lights.

40 watts for sideways facing LED search lights. (useful when in tight terrain)

I have individual switches and a master kill switch for the auxiliaries. I accidentally left them all on and used the kill switch.

turned them on while at high revs in 4x4 mode.
cooked an alternator brush.

it has 4 brushes so I had enough guts to get back to a safe spot.
then it was a few hours of surgery and a gas soldering iron to replace a bush on the stator ring, that was meant to be replaces as a single unit.

Chris078

19th March 2016, 05:29 PM

well... 240 watts is the led component,
200 watts for halogens,

120 watts for factory foggers

120 watts for factory lights.

40 watts for sideways facing LED search lights. (useful when in tight terrain)

240w (20A) is a lot of LED light, but that still makes more sense!
you should be able to replace 200 watts of Halogens with about 50 of LED,
but I can now see why you need more juice!

dranoweb

19th March 2016, 06:59 PM

I like the halogens for distance. I may swap them for hid's later.

But... until i swap the engine (head gasket failure) I'm not investing any further.

Its now the town runabout for my wife and highbeams are rarely needed.

Usually I don't need them all at once. I do snowy mountain passes and heavy fog regularly, its handy to be able to use different light spectrums and angles at the flick of a switch.

I also found out today just how capable the perentie is.

Loaded it up with around a cubic meter of firewood from fallen trees on an oil pipeline access track. Probably one of the rougher tracks around here and full of fine white sand.

The weather here recently was pretty wild.

Took a few happy snaps.
Not allowed photos of the pipeline, but here's one of a nearby road with yet another tree that was blocking the track.

So far I've been very impressed at the simply unstoppable torque this thing has.

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dranoweb

19th March 2016, 07:10 PM

Uploading from mobile has some quirks apparently...

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mick88

20th March 2016, 07:51 AM

Todays task: Fit a KLR power steering kit to the Perentie!

Cheers, Mick.

Chris078

20th March 2016, 08:18 PM

Thanks. I'll be adding some extras so a little more power will help.

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Had other dramas and forgot about this.

Brand is JAS Oceania
Model # ANJ 027

oowa

21st March 2016, 09:28 PM

Drove home from KLR today with new turbo fitted and rebuilt gearbox, nice.
gee my wife is lovely for the permission slip, and paying for it.

dranoweb

21st March 2016, 09:47 PM

So whereabout is klr auto?
I'm in vic - and gearbox rebuild sounds like a handy service to be aware of.

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Mick_Marsh

21st March 2016, 11:01 PM

So whereabout is klr auto?
I'm in vic - and gearbox rebuild sounds like a handy service to be aware of.

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Sydney

http://www.klrautomotive.com.au/

dranoweb

23rd March 2016, 07:44 PM

had a moment of inspiration today and took advantage of specials at supercheap.

Mounted my new work/reverse lights.

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Chris078

24th March 2016, 08:09 PM

had a moment of inspiration today and took advantage of specials at supercheap.

Mounted my new work/reverse lights.

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I have the same ones. I mounted mine where the blackout lights were in the rear bumper.
Bright little things, very useful when you have a long, tight driveway to reverse down every night.

dranoweb

24th March 2016, 10:27 PM

I have the same ones. I mounted mine where the blackout lights were in the rear bumper.
Bright little things, very useful when you have a long, tight driveway to reverse down every night.

Yeah I was going to get bigger ones, but stupidcheap auto had them on special and I have a trade discount card.

I also did alot more wiring today.
As I have an epic distrust of lucas wiring, I went direct to battery and added my own fusebox.

Also added some halogens that might turn olive drab later.

Battery box is a bit messy till I rearrange things and make a fuse placard.

Got the halogens on special, needed a set for a trip in a few weeks, will upgrade fittings to HID and add 4 row x 20 inch led bar later.

Also ran 12 gauge supply line to tailgate, and fitted led strip in cargo area.

Fitted relay in rear for reverse lights, have yet to find the right wire for reverse light though.

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mick88

25th March 2016, 07:39 AM

Fitted a rear step that i had knocked up the day before, then hooked the camper on and headed for Melrose. The Perentie pulled it with ease, wouldn't even have known it was there if i didn't check the mirrors. Not much impact on the fuel economy either. The KLR PAS i fitted earlier in the week made reversing with the camper on so much easier and gave far better control.

Cheers, Mick.

dranoweb

25th March 2016, 12:11 PM

woodcutting with the perentie today.
got to areas of the collection area previously inaccessible. Noticed the weight and suspension on the way home. Climbing out in low range was a peice of pie.

Note the loaded and unloaded suspension position. Estimate 1.5 ton of wood.

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Lotz-A-Landies

25th March 2016, 06:37 PM

Still sorting out the recent acquisition, a couple or three times the front of the canopy (tarp) has experienced a blow out while traveling. Turns out the clamping plate wasn't adjusted correctly and subsequently to that, whoever fitted the new tarp didn't leave enough on the leading edge to fold in and slot into the expanded section. Have adjusted the clamping plate but looking at the RPS it shows a three pointed seal. ( U103O/MTC7252 ) does anyone have that seal in their perentie? is there an alternative I could acquire from Clark Rubber etc?

Onto the seats, I find that they are Stratos not Isri of the earlier models. Unfortunately the mounting bracket had both bent and cracked in a couple of places so made up some new bases out of 2mm flat bar which Cookey stuck on with the MIG (thanks Cookey :BigThumb: ) have also spaced the seats up a little more with washers, hoping to be closer to the height of the Isri seats but need to see if I can get a replacement for the torsion wire that locks the runners before reinstalling.

Chris078

25th March 2016, 07:09 PM

Yeah I was going to get bigger ones, but stupidcheap auto had them on special and I have a trade discount card.

I also did alot more wiring today.
As I have an epic distrust of lucas wiring, I went direct to battery and added my own fusebox.

Also added some halogens that might turn olive drab later.

Battery box is a bit messy till I rearrange things and make a fuse placard.

Got the halogens on special, needed a set for a trip in a few weeks, will upgrade fittings to HID and add 4 row x 20 inch led bar later.

Also ran 12 gauge supply line to tailgate, and fitted led strip in cargo area.

Fitted relay in rear for reverse lights, have yet to find the right wire for reverse light though.

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Wiring chart says it's GN - Green Brown at rear wiring harness.

If you don't have the wiring charts/service manuals etc, I posted links to them here: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/233676-new-perentie-miscellaneous-questions-3.html#post2510547

dranoweb

25th March 2016, 07:10 PM

Still sorting out the recent acquisition, a ouple or three times the front of the canopy (tarp) has experienced a blow out while travelling. Turns out the clamping plate wasn't adjusted correctly and subsequently to that whoever fitted the new tarp didn't leave enough on the leading edge to fold in and slot into the expanded section. Have adjusted the clamping plate but looking at the RPS it shows a three pointed seal. ( U103
O/MTC7252 ) does anyone have that seal in their perentie? is there an alternative I could acquire from Clark Rubber etc?

Onto the seats, I find that they are Stratos not Isri of the earlier models.Unfortunately the mounting bracket had both bent and cracked in a couple of places so made out some new bases out of 2mm flat bar which Cookey stuck on with the MIG (thanks Cookey :BigThumb: ) have also spaced the seats up a little more with washers, hoping to be closer to the height of the Isri seats but need to see if I can get a replacement for the torsion wire that locks the runners.
V

The canvas clamp blew out while passing trucks a few times with me. No seal to speak of in there.

I found i had to fold the four clips over, and then add 1 and 1/2 turns or so on the nylock on the other side with an open ended spanner.

I'm chasing stratos for load area seats too.

Not sure why anyone would want higher seats, I already have to duck down to see further than 50 feet diwn the road.

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Lotz-A-Landies

25th March 2016, 08:40 PM

dranoweb

25th March 2016, 09:17 PM

Do you already have Stratos or Isri?

The previous vehicle 48-851 had Isri where I liked the height and I think in my Stratos you sit lower. It may however be a function of the bent and broken brackets, so I may have spaced them too high, I only used washers so adjusting won't be too much of a problem, if I test the position before bolting down.

In relation to the seal, the RPS (Item 20 Section SAF) suggests there should be one.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/107268d1458902362-what-did-you-do-your-perentie-today-windscreen-clamp.png

I'll have a closer look at a later date and see. My new canvas had a rubber bead that seals nicely under tension.

I have vinyl stratos seats.

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Dervish

26th March 2016, 09:50 AM

Have adjusted the clamping plate but looking at the RPS it shows a three pointed seal. ( U103O/MTC7252 ) does anyone have that seal in their perentie? is there an alternative I could acquire from Clark Rubber etc?

I'm 95% sure 48-010 has that seal, but it has been some time since I looked at that piece.

Clark Rubber sells very, very little in the way of automotive rubber. You won't find anything to fit a Perentie there. If you want a replacement for that piece, you'll have to go to a specialist; luckily, there is one near you (http://www.mvrindustrial.com.au/index.php).

Use their Illustrated Product Guide:

http://www.mvrindustrial.com.au/images/stories/Spectrum_Rubber_Catalogue.pdf

dranoweb

26th March 2016, 12:49 PM

On my way to the military museum today, found a buddy on the way.

Did a bit of comparison, this one is much worse off.

Purchased as a farm ute apparently.

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dranoweb

26th March 2016, 07:29 PM

designed, laser cut, assembled and fitted a dash module for the perentie today.

I'll be releasing all my designs including the cad files for anyone else interested in making one, just as soon as I make amendments to show the mods I had to make after the laser cutter.

Original design intended to replace the existing cover entirely but due to some geometry issues, it now sits on top, secured by one of the dash fixing screws (replaced with longer one.)

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Chris078

26th March 2016, 08:38 PM

Looks good!
what does the 'emergency fuse bypass' do?

dranoweb

26th March 2016, 09:06 PM

Looks good!
what does the 'emergency fuse bypass' do?

Nothing as yet.
it may end up being a trick switch to form part of the ignition circuit, but more likely it will become a "lucas mode" bypass.

As i have an epic dIstrust of lucas wiring, i planned to add a big relay and big fuse to override the factory ignition wiring in case of failure in a time critical or isolated situation.

that or bypass standard wiring to allow backfeed into accesories like I have on my riceburner for the radio comms.

Its a recycled switch from the local RAAF radar station consoles that was scrapped.

I also used many of the buttons and switches for a play "icbm control station" for my youngest daughter. It has a raspberry pi zero microcontroller in it now.

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Lotz-A-Landies

29th March 2016, 04:29 PM

Nothing as yet.
it may end up being a trick switch to form part of the ignition circuit, but more likely it will become a "lucas mode" bypass.

As i have an epic dIstrust of lucas wiring, ...Weren't the Perentie harnesses made by Vinwire?

Probably designed by The Prince of Darkness Joseph Lucas though!

mattmac

29th March 2016, 08:32 PM

dranoweb

29th March 2016, 10:27 PM

replaced my air vent seals which were leaking-decided to use the older-type rubber seals as had some in stock - thought they'd make for a better seal but after fitting find it difficult to close the vent and leaks is worse than before-not a happy camper:-( Might have to rip them out and use the newer self adhesive ones.

I'm planning on doing mine soon too - and adjusting/unbending the mechanisim.
I'd be interested to know how you go.

I did notice some vinwire wrappings on the main dash loom - that may explain a few things - but it's still full of lucas parts including lucas glass on interior light and rubber push connectors.

In other news, picked up my door top parts from rover dealer today - confirmed that the door top bolts are sacrificial - hence the added diameter.

Unsurprisingly, part numbers have been superseeded a couple of times. New ones included.

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Chris078

30th March 2016, 07:59 AM

replaced my air vent seals which were leaking-decided to use the older-type rubber seals as had some in stock - thought they'd make for a better seal but after fitting find it difficult to close the vent and leaks is worse than before-not a happy camper:-( Might have to rip them out and use the newer self adhesive ones.

I remember reading a thread somewhere that those seals take a bit of 'bedding in' time.
The top part of the vent needs to dig into the new seal so that the bottom part can seal properly.

close it as tight as you can without really forcing the flap, leave it for a day, see if you can close the flap a notch or two tighter, repeat as necessary.

Mine actually has(had) a thin additional seal running around the inside of the flap, I assume to aid contact between the seal and the vent flap.
I took it off when I painted the flaps and forgot to put new stuff on. Will have to do that as it leaked like a busted dam in the rain the other day:mad:.

Lotz-A-Landies

30th March 2016, 10:10 AM

replaced my air vent seals which were leaking-decided to use the older-type rubber seals as had some in stock - thought they'd make for a better seal but after fitting find it difficult to close the vent and leaks is worse than before-not a happy camper:-( Might have to rip them out and use the newer self adhesive ones.
Hi Matt

When you say older-type rubber seals, are you talking about the Series Landy type that stuck to the firewall or the 110/Defender type that stick to the back of the flap?

If you used the series type and didn't first remove the Defender ones, you will have a lot of trouble getting it to close and or seal.

With both types, you often find that the flap itself is warped and removing that warping will often reduce the leaking.

davesquirrel

30th March 2016, 04:25 PM

The CampeRover was created!

Under increasing pressure from the gf to go away camping for a night and make use of the Perentie as intended, a few weeks ago I did up some plans, bought the materials and put them in the garage until the day before the camping trip when, with mild hangover and no desire to use power tools, I decided to spend several hours sitting in the bath doing silicone sealing.

When the 11am departure time rolled around the next day, I had knocked up a timber frame, screwed some brace pieces to a couple of sheets of ply, and rigged it all up. In my head. It all got finished around half one, then I got to be reminded that the battery is under the passenger seat and parking next to a tree isn't clever.

But the mods internally were a roaring success. Plenty of accessible storage space and enough room for two 600mm wide self-inflating mattresses). The missus was a bit apprehensive at first (she gets a bit claustrophobic, but the red blackout light seemed to help) but we woke on Monday morning comfortable and warm. And having driven 70km, the battery had had a good charge.

Next mods will be a table that attaches to the rear end using the hollow slots above the rear wheel, and a hinged section at the back for easier access to the storage section.

Just need to find out what the whining noise, can't work out if it's transmission or wheel hub. Any suggestions for easier source identification? I tried coasting down a few hills, but i'm a bit deaf and this didn't help...

TL;DR

Nothing mechanical. Went camping, turned heads, see pictures!

mattmac

30th March 2016, 08:35 PM

Yes i used the series/early 110 rubber seals that stick to the firewall and did remove the old foam seals from inside flaps first. Someone mentioned the flaps might be different between series and defender?
Hi Matt

When you say older-type rubber seals, are you talking about the Series Landy type that stuck to the firewall or the 110/Defender type that stick to the back of the flap?

If you used the series type and didn't first remove the Defender ones, you will have a lot of trouble getting it to close and or seal.

With both types, you often find that the flap itself is warped and removing that warping will often reduce the leaking.

Chris078

31st March 2016, 06:49 AM

Yes i used the series/early 110 rubber seals that stick to the firewall and did remove the old foam seals from inside flaps first. Someone mentioned the flaps might be different between series and defender?

I'm confused. On mine, the seal fits into to the hole in the firewall ( some sticky substance is holding it very firmly to the firewall) and some thin 3mmX20mm rubber has been stuck around the inside of the lip on the flap.

I've poked around the net, but can't seem an example of the seal on the flap only.

Lotz-A-Landies

31st March 2016, 09:46 AM

I'm confused. On mine, the seal fits into to the hole in the firewall ( some sticky substance is holding it very firmly to the firewall) and some thin 3mmX20mm rubber has been stuck around the inside of the lip on the flap.

I've poked around the net, but can't seem an example of the seal on the flap only.110 and Defender only have a seal stuck on the back side of the flap. it seals against the metal lip around the vent hole in the firewall.

Series II/IIA and III have the rubber stuck to the vent recess in firewall and seal against the lip in the flap. You only have one type or the other not both.

If you have both it will be hard to close the vents.

Chris078

31st March 2016, 03:14 PM

Finished up a service. all oils/filters changed. Seems a few of my zerk fittings are clogged.
Good thing she's going to the mechanic tomorrow so I can get them changed.

Picked up a bottle of Izuzu diesel fuel injector cleaner when I was there the other day getting a sump plug gasket - special order $3.95!. I've always been dubious about those additives, but I figured if it's a proper Izuzu one, it shouldn't do any harm.

Just did a 150km run. Blew clouds for the first 20km, now running much smoother and significantly more power. See how it goes after i burn off the rest of the tank, but so far, quite happy with the results.

dranoweb

31st March 2016, 04:27 PM

I have a bottle of that stuff too. I might give it a go.

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Chris078

31st March 2016, 06:07 PM

I have a bottle of that stuff too. I might give it a go.

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I'm genuinely surprised. I'd never put the (seemingly) dodgy stuff you get at Supercheap in my car. I figured at least if it's got the Isuzu name on it, at least it won't hurt the engine/fuel pump.
time will tell.

Chris078

1st April 2016, 11:16 AM

Back from the mechanics with new lower rear suspension bushes. Wow what a difference it makes.
The old ones were the originals and utterly shot, so I was expecting a difference, but not quite so much.
It's so much better over bumps and going around high speed corners. I longer feel like it's going to jump a lane or roll over!
best $53 I've spent. $50 fitting. $2.90 for the bushes which cost 29c but only come in a bag of 10. more stuff for the spares box.

Imgur (https://imgur.com/a/CvNgb)

<edit> part number is R552818. some places just use 552818

Lotz-A-Landies

7th April 2016, 11:05 PM

I need to give a big thank you to Mark Isuzutoo-Eh. :BigThumb:

A couple of weeks ago, I mentioned that I had repaired the seat runner mounting rails and found that one of the locking springs had lost its tension. Anyway its not listed as a separate part (although I haven't contacted Stratos, the manufacturer), so the other day Mark was picking up his SIIa shorty and I had the seat out. He suggested that I should use spring steel piano wire, not only did he suggest it he also acquired some from a hobby shop for me.. Half an hours work later the spring is made and fitted in and works a treat.

:TakeABow: :TakeABow:

JDNSW

8th April 2016, 05:39 AM

Mark is definitely one of those really helpful people.

John

Chris078

8th April 2016, 06:46 AM

I parked it. Clutch master has (I hope) enough life left to get me to the mechanics next Wednesday (As long as Justin comes through with my parts)

It's only the beginning of April and I've already blown the parts budget for the year :(

dranoweb

8th April 2016, 06:50 AM

Chris078

8th April 2016, 08:33 AM

Had a lucas moment last night, while reversing, heard the sound of electrical arcing. One headlight went out.
I disengaged reverse and switched off headlights. When I switched them on again to confirn, both work again, but dash backlights now dont work.

Its going to be a long weekend I think.

go to this page
Vehicle Wiring Diagrams - REMLR (http://www.remlr.com/wiring.html#110)

scroll down to the bottom till you find
Land Rover 110 General Service (GS). EMEI G103 Issue 2

download and save the 3 pages under that.

Take them to OfficeWorks (or similar) and blow them up to A1 size.
$2.30 a page, makes it far easier to read and follow the wiring.

Also, consider buying one of these

Headlight Wiring Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV (http://www.traxide.com.au/headlight-wiring-kits/)

Much safer than the traditional LR wiring and will allow you to fit +130 bulbs which actually let you see something at night.

dranoweb

8th April 2016, 09:10 AM

I already have the diagrams.
I'm also very experienced with vehicle electrics (and avionics)

I have fitted an auxiliary fusebox in the battery bay for all my planned extras.

Currently have a separate loom for headlights with 60a relay for halogen driving lights.

I recently fitted a relay across the reversing light circuit to run my reverse lights and added a custom dash.

I also re-instated the blackout switch.

So there are a number of places I'll be checking first.

Another thing I recently did was change the air filter, and may have dusturbed the plate that is known to chafe wiring.

The sound was a destinct blade fue blowing sound.

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dranoweb

8th April 2016, 09:28 AM

[I]

Also, consider buying one of these

Headlight Wiring Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV (http://www.traxide.com.au/headlight-wiring-kits/)

Much safer than the traditional LR wiring and will allow you to fit +130 bulbs which actually let you see something at night.

I fitted sealed beams for water resistance reasons.
I use auxiliary halgens.

I'm in the process of upgrading and replacing much of the existing wiring.

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Chris078

8th April 2016, 09:55 AM

Ah! I remember that dash now.
good luck in your search for the source, hopefully it's not too difficult a fix.

dranoweb

8th April 2016, 09:59 AM

I have a feeling it's got something do do with the melted connector on the driver's side headlight.

Spotted it pre-roadworthy when changing lights.

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dranoweb

8th April 2016, 08:54 PM

well I have dash lights again.
couldn't find any blown fuses but pulled each and every fuse and inspected.
Fuses 16, 18, 19 and 20 looked corroded and in poor condition so I replaced them.

Bought myself a quality test screwdriver today and a big box of 230 fuses.

I went so far as to remove the dash binnacle, and found I have a t2 wedge globe holder floating around loose, and I suspect it may have contacted the speedo cable - or something else.

I didn't have dash lights until I put the test screwdriver in this holder and turned on ignition.

I had however replaced fuses in between testing steps, so I suspect I just had a dodgy fuse somewhere.

I've also wired one of my auxiliary switches to override the relay (with a thermal overload) on my aux driving lights so that if they ever drop on me at speed I can turn them on long enough to pull over.

My fuse cover was all but missing, and unreadable, so I had to print a spare for now.
found a good image on REMLR:

Any idea what fuse 18 is?
I assume 19 is washers/wipers, and 20 is heater...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/703.jpg

Carzee

9th April 2016, 07:56 AM

Cool.
This symbol for 18, my best guess, is the disc brake pad wear warning setup. My FFR has the wires on the pads. Whether it works is an unknown. I know the RFSVs have it, and they began life as an FFR as well.

We'll both have to go make coffee and await a guru with the correct info.

I went thru the fuse box sort-out and put in all new fuses as you see in the thread on REMLR. I have had no electrical hassles since then.

dranoweb

9th April 2016, 07:58 AM

my brake warning wire is disconnected below.

I'll do some testing when I reconnect it.

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Dervish

9th April 2016, 10:14 AM

Any idea what fuse 18 is?
I assume 19 is washers/wipers, and 20 is heater...
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/703.jpg

Air conditioning compressor clutch, fuse 17 is the AC fans. Another remnant of the loom being the civvy V8 issue.

Aussie Jeepster

9th April 2016, 03:11 PM

I'm about to replace the rear straps and supports on my Perentie as they are a mess. But I am intrigued by 2 of the bolts holding them in place.
In the RPS they are listed as 6mmx20mm bolts, but those fitted in my Perentie are studs! And there is a long section sticking out which seems to do nothing. If one bolt was like this, I'd accept some mechanic fitted whatever he could find, but both sides are identical. Any ideas????

dranoweb

9th April 2016, 03:46 PM

They look like long pop rivets through the nut.

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Chris078

9th April 2016, 04:04 PM

They look like long pop rivets through the nut.

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It looks like there is a plastic/rubber cover over the threads after the nuts. Can you cut that off so you can take the nuts off?

Just checked my GS - same thing.

Aussie Jeepster

9th April 2016, 04:19 PM

I'm just going to undo the nuts inside the tool boxes to take them off. They are actually a stud rather than a bolt. really odd setup. Especially odd when they are shown as normal bolts in the RPS, unless it is a mod of some sort.
EDIT!
Just found another RPS where it lists it as a 1/4" x 2" STUD (RRC5533) !!! And there is a "Cap Protective Stud" (RRC5677) also listed. Mystery solved. The RPS does not have any illustration of the part, just the part details listed.
Now to try to make sense of WHY!?!>

dranoweb

10th April 2016, 01:39 PM

So I did alot today.

Replaced forward bash plate bolts.
replaced park light globes
replaced fuses (again)
Lost dash lights (again)
Pulled dash out (again)
Found what speedo cable was rubbing on
realligned speedo in dash.
Got dash lights back
Put dash back in and list dash lights again. - gave up.
replaced door top studs
replaced door top seals with new style.
Replaced custom switch in dash to isolate feedback into reverse lights.
fitted 40 watt pair of solar panels and ran wire to battery box.

Note, studs were buggered.
and land rover dealer supplied a new type of door seal that looks like it might solve some of the leaking issues.

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Chris078

10th April 2016, 04:14 PM

Chris078

10th April 2016, 04:19 PM

dranoweb

10th April 2016, 04:42 PM

That's a busy day! Those lights sound like a frustrating problem.
Are you popping fuses when you lose your dash lights, or are they just going out?
IIRC the lights are powered from a line that comes from a separate fuse in the central control box, maybe that line or fuse has a fault in it?

Intermittent. Been wriggling/replacing fuses in the box under the dash with mixed results.
I also found a seprate t2 blade socket loose, that has intermittent power too.

Originally, I was reversing, (with extra tail lights engaged)
Heard an arc/fizzle that sounded like a blade fuse blowing coming from the proximity of the dimmer control.
One headlight went out (drivers)
I then turned lights off, stopped, and disengaged reverse, and isolated the revrse light circuit.

headlight returned when switched on again a few moments later, but dash lights were gone.

I suspect dimmer switch at this stage, but have run out of time to check.
I'm considering running my own loom to the dash with double insulated wire.

Bearman

10th April 2016, 06:07 PM

Intermittent. Been wriggling/replacing fuses in the box under the dash with mixed results.
I also found a seprate t2 blade socket loose, that has intermittent power too.

Originally, I was reversing, (with extra tail lights engaged)
Heard an arc/fizzle that sounded like a blade fuse blowing coming from the proximity of the dimmer control.
One headlight went out (drivers)
I then turned lights off, stopped, and disengaged reverse, and isolated the revrse light circuit.

headlight returned when switched on again a few moments later, but dash lights were gone.

I suspect dimmer switch at this stage, but have run out of time to check.
I'm considering running my own loom to the dash with double insulated wire.

You can just bypass the dimmer switch if you find out it is the culprit. IMO they are nothing but a problem. Disconnect both wires behind the switch and join them together.

87County

10th April 2016, 06:35 PM

You can just bypass the dimmer switch if you find out it is the culprit. IMO they are nothing but a problem. Disconnect both wires behind the switch and join them together.

The only problem then is that the instrument lights are on all the time (when the ign is on) ?? So, I'm wondering if a better solution is to wire in a two pole on/off switch instead of the dimmer ?

dranoweb

10th April 2016, 06:40 PM

Im familiar with how to bypass the dimmer.

It's mostly a matter of finding time to fault find.

My dash lights were already on all the time.

LED T2 wedge globes are also planned for the future

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Chris078

10th April 2016, 07:10 PM

The only problem then is that the instrument lights are on all the time (when the ign is on) ?? So, I'm wondering if a better solution is to wire in a two pole on/off switch instead of the dimmer ?

Instrument lights in a Perentie are always illuminated when the ignition is on anyway, so that's no different.

It's just a weird failure. headlights going out then coming back on ... loose/faulty block connector (those black plugs with 6-8 wires on each side) maybe.
Hopefully Dranoweb can find it without ripping out too much of the dash/his hair!

dingsy

10th April 2016, 07:24 PM

The blackout dimmer switch in mine is dodgy and puts the dash lights out unless I fiddle with it. Probably not the same issue but worth a mention.

BadCo.

10th April 2016, 08:12 PM

Instrument lights in a Perentie are always illuminated when the ignition is on anyway, so that's no different.

Except when they are off from the dimmer turned all the way down.

I personally wouldn't want my dash lights on all the time, I would be inclined to put them through a relay with the park lights.

dranoweb

10th April 2016, 08:49 PM

Except when they are off from the dimmer turned all the way down.

I personally wouldn't want my dash lights on all the time, I would be inclined to put them through a relay with the park lights.

Somewhat similar to my plans.
I have auxiliary switches in my dash mod.
I'm considering using a spare for dash lights.

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Chris078

10th April 2016, 10:26 PM

Except when they are off from the dimmer turned all the way down.

I personally wouldn't want my dash lights on all the time, I would be inclined to put them through a relay with the park lights.

Is that a personal preference or a 'don't trust Lucas wiring' thing?

I never notice them during the day, even when they're turned all the way up.

dranoweb

10th April 2016, 10:39 PM

Is that a personal preference or a 'don't trust Lucas wiring' thing?

I never notice them during the day, even when they're turned all the way up.

Does anyone trust lucas wiring?
I mezn the perentie has a lucas mode switch aka "blackout" switch.

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Lotz-A-Landies

11th April 2016, 09:09 AM

Chris078

11th April 2016, 10:02 AM

If your concerned about Lucas, stop worrying, Joseph Lucas Ltd as a manufacturing company doesn't exist anymore.

If you buy modern Lucas components with a Lucas brand, it is only a licenced use of the name and or patterns. But for originality don't have any concerns the spirit of the Prince of Darkness is infused into every item. :D

What did I do on my Perentie, I retrofitted a Lucas headlamp bucket and Lucas insert to replace the unbranded and clouded insert present when it came out of service. As usual I have to play with the fuse panel, but the problem was a corroded effectively blown fuse. I guess that probably what happens when you spend your service life at Shoalwater Bay training area and Cape Yorke.

Fitted in two radio tables, but the annoying thing is that the ATU interface cable for the MX-6707 doesn't fit through the hole in the body? :mad:

heh. Mine started life in Townsville. at some point it got flooded to halfway up the headlights (found a perfect mudline across the bowl when I took them out) . I'm pretty sure it was flooded in one of the cyclones up there as it seems that it got flooded and then sat as the water slowly receded. The chassis was full (solid) of mud. every nook and cranny was full of rock hard dried mud.
When I pulled the dash out to fix a wiring fault (surprise, surprise) a couple of weeks ago, I found that I had no airflow because the dash where the air was meant to flow was (drum roll) filled with mud!

I've spent hundreds and many hours pulling apart, cleaning and replacing most of the connectors in the car, the original barrel fuse panel (that was so rusted you couldn't remove the barrel fuses in 2 instances) along with flushing the dash, engine bay and chassis of mud.

It's a testament to this thing that despite this incredibly poor treatment, it still goes strong with minimal rust/corrosion.

dranoweb

11th April 2016, 10:42 AM

Chris078

11th April 2016, 12:20 PM

Yeah i think ill remove and clean every fuse and remove the fuse holder and check carefully.

Also going to buy a couple of tins of "electrical clean and lube" from jaycar.

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might be worth checking the connector on the back of the fuse panel (where the fuse plugs into) as well. might be something loose/corroded there that is causing the random drops/shorts.

I used a spray can of contact cleaner to clean them, a wire brush if corroded/stubborn mud (lots of that in the rear lights harness) then coated with Lanolin once I'd reassembled the connection.
No troubles since I've done that and I'm hoping it will keep the corrosion at bay.

dranoweb

11th April 2016, 12:52 PM

might be worth checking the connector on the back of the fuse panel (where the fuse plugs into) as well. might be something loose/corroded there that is causing the random drops/shorts.

I used a spray can of contact cleaner to clean them, a wire brush if corroded/stubborn mud (lots of that in the rear lights harness) then coated with Lanolin once I'd reassembled the connection.
No troubles since I've done that and I'm hoping it will keep the corrosion at bay.

Yes that clean and lube stuff dries with a water resistant varnish like finish.
designed for industrial switch contacts in harsh environments.

But more or less what you suggest was my plan.

Also got my GME AE4705B antenna in through work today.
was forced to settle for the 1.2m version so I can fit through drive-through without roping it down.

Will be fitting that tonight ahead of radio arrival next week.

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Chris078

11th April 2016, 03:50 PM

Yes that clean and lube stuff dries with a water resistant varnish like finish.
designed for industrial switch contacts in harsh environments.

But more or less what you suggest was my plan.

Also got my GME AE4705B antenna in through work today.
was forced to settle for the 1.2m version so I can fit through drive-through without roping it down.

Will be fitting that tonight ahead of radio arrival next week.

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Nice. Sure looks the part.

What brand is that contact cleaner you use? sounds like it's a bit easier to use than what I have been doing.

dranoweb

11th April 2016, 04:27 PM

Nice. Sure looks the part.

What brand is that contact cleaner you use? sounds like it's a bit easier to use than what I have been doing.

Servisol brand.
yellow tin.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/Service-Aids/Chemical-Aids/Aerosols/Contact-Cleaner-Lubricant-Spray-Can/p/NA1012

The green tin is the same thing without the varnish and is plastic safe.

Any jaycar dealer should have or can get it.

And the antenna looks better fitted:
Now... to pay for it.

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Lotz-A-Landies

11th April 2016, 08:17 PM

heh. Mine started life in Townsville. at some point it got flooded to halfway up the headlights (found a perfect mudline across the bowl when I took them out) . I'm pretty sure it was flooded in one of the cyclones up there as it seems that it got flooded and then sat as the water slowly receded. The chassis was full (solid) of mud. every nook and cranny was full of rock hard dried mud. ... <snip>50-422 spent 3 weeks in the vehicle pool at 2FSB Townsville and the rest of its 23 years and 3 days service life in 51 FNQR Cairns until being withdrawn from service and auctioned off.

Lotz-A-Landies

11th April 2016, 08:20 PM

Servisol brand.
yellow tin.
Contact Cleaner Lubricant Spray Can | Aerosols | Chemical Aids | Service Aids | PRODUCTS | NA1012 | Jaycar Electronics (http://www.jaycar.com.au/Service-Aids/Chemical-Aids/Aerosols/Contact-Cleaner-Lubricant-Spray-Can/p/NA1012)

The green tin is the same thing without the varnish and is plastic safe.

Any jaycar dealer should have or can get it.

And the antenna looks better fitted:
Now... to pay for it.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile appIs that armoured corps vehicle buried?

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

Sand over blood is a no no.

dranoweb

11th April 2016, 08:57 PM

Is that armoured corps vehicle buried?

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/108054d1460359654-what-did-you-do-your-perentie-today-1460359653349.jpg

Sand over blood is a no no.

Think you may have to elaborate a little more there...

Yes I understand the colours, there is a respectful reason they are there.

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dranoweb

11th April 2016, 09:27 PM

Actually - to skip a long and drawn out, potential argument, off topic - my reasons are as follows:

I'm an ex member of the 4/19 pwlh.
no pull with left hand jokes thanks.
spinal injury caused me to cut my career short before it could really start.

My passion is for tracked vehicles, but sadly I was a few weeks late on enlistment and missed my chance at the M113A1'S

I spent my remaining time rattling around in perenties.

I'm always saddened that I couldn't do more for the unit.

Additionally my family has a long and distinguished history with the light horse.

My great uncle received the military medal and bar, and returned to help found what has now become the local RSL, later becoming president and lifetime member.

I also volunteer at the local military museum and do my best to look after the interests of my late WO2 in a museum full of raffies.

The average civvie tends to ask for an explanation of the colours, and the explanation often leads them to a visit to the museum or a chat with the local unit on a parade night.

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Lotz-A-Landies

11th April 2016, 09:46 PM

dranoweb

11th April 2016, 09:51 PM

I note that the REMLR colours are sand over blood, but horizontal.

I know of two M113A1 in civilian hands in Vic. If you like a bit of armour and want a trip for the weekend, head up the NSW and the Lithgow Ironfest. We will have 9 X AAVA armoured vehicles and one OT-810 from SEQ (similar to the WWII Sd.Kfz.250 German halftrack) and a lot of loud noises.

No M113 though but we will have a FV432 (British equivalent),

I'll need some more details on that.
that's the first exciting thing I've read in a rather long time.

I got to spend one training weekend in one and screwed up a few radio sets with my helmet, and spent 80% of the time idling at the top of a hill relaying radio comms.

The chance to actually travel distance in one is very appealing.

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Lotz-A-Landies

11th April 2016, 10:00 PM

Ironfest An arts festival with a metal edge (http://ironfest.net/)

https://www.facebook.com/ironfesthttps://www.facebook.com/ironfest

Our member from Victoria with the FV-432 will be there, he often needs crew for his toys, there may be a lead on a new outlet for your interests. He's currently restoring a WWII valentine.

dranoweb

11th April 2016, 10:05 PM

If I had known sooner I'd be there.
but it's about a 10 hour drive for me. I'd get there and then have to turn around and come back again.

Though I'm now looking for ways to justify and make it work.

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Carzee

11th April 2016, 11:12 PM

I note that the REMLR colours are sand over blood, but horizontal... snipped

[Blows dust off ancient books stacked on old school desk fitted with ink pot] The Elders Of REMLR chose the colours around the turn of the century, when the vehicles in the registry were 99pc Series 2, 2a, and 3; we went with drab olive for low-vis and yellow over red for normal.

> we avoided diagonal like the FVs, the Landys are soft skins, and if we ever did ape RAAC's tac we'd be rightly accused of trespass

> we avoided copying the Lifesavers flag, ditto the trespassing

> we simply went with "LR's own", the colourful items that defined old school LR, the High and Low range knobs. If we had put red over yellow everyone would ask "Why do you have low range above high range?"

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/624.jpg

If you have problems with going to sleep/insomnia, keep reading...

The first batch of tacs printed tried to have red and yellow (Hi Lo ranges) combined with green and gold (Australia): http://www.remlr.com/images/tac7.gif

The whole story is here TAC info- www.remlr.com (http://www.remlr.com/remlrtacinfo.html)

ZZZZzzzzzzz

dranoweb

11th April 2016, 11:40 PM

Just for the record, my tac signs are not intended to affiliate me with remlr, while i have signed up, im not up to advertising that fact yet.

They also red/white, not red/yellow.

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Lotz-A-Landies

12th April 2016, 06:19 AM

If I had known sooner I'd be there.
but it's about a 10 hour drive for me. I'd get there and then have to turn around and come back again.
...<snip>We're on site from Thursday through Monday morning and the event is Friday through Sunday, so you don't have to make it quite so short if you can find the time away from work for traveling/sleeping.

<snip>
They also red/white, not red/yellow.
...<snip>That would make it 2 Corps Mounted Regiment AIF WWI. (light Horse, a precursor for Armoured regiments) :D

dranoweb

12th April 2016, 06:42 AM

Indeed.
i see someone knows their history.

The 4/19 1tp A sqn adopted the red/white with the dancing devil from the 13pwlh as their unit patch.

And flipped horizontally it becomes 13th as well.

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dranoweb

12th April 2016, 04:06 PM

We're on site from Thursday through Monday morning and the event is Friday through Sunday, so you don't have to make it quite so short if you can find the time away from work for traveling/sleeping.
That would make it 2 Corps Mounted Regiment AIF WWI. (light Horse, a precursor for Armoured regiments) :D

I'm currently preparing to visit my daughter on the other side of the mountains mid may. I don't yet have so much as a spare tire or wheel brace.

My other vehicle is running on radiator gasket repair goo, and is unsafe for the trip.

I need both the money and time.
and I'm also needed for museum duty/self employment this weekend.

Looking like it's going to be a longer trip next year.

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dranoweb

13th April 2016, 07:55 PM

Just to add to my spamming of this topic:

Managed to get my antenna coax in place today, and dragged out my late brother's old IC208H amateur set, and currently mounting it behind the passenger's seat, and ran wires for the remote head and mic.

Extension speaker to come tomorrow.

Also adjusted passenger door, but after new door top seals and studs, the top still separates from the top seal.

New seal time I think.

Fixed the canvas position on the windscreen clamp, after close observation of Les Hiddin's rig.

Negotiating for a spare rim.
Got spare key blanks in as I snapped my only spare.

They don't fit the lock barrels... This is the second time...

Wheel Brace shouldn't be far away.

Painted my bottle jack with leftover paint from the bullbar because... well why not - what doesn't look good in olive drab?

Then it got too dark, and I remembered I had to work tomorrow.

Lotz-A-Landies

13th April 2016, 10:27 PM

What's your call sign?

dranoweb

13th April 2016, 10:58 PM

Probably only going to sit on chook band for now. Installing for emergency comms on upcomming trip.

Was about to resit my advanced licence and my assessor died.

Seems to be happening alot lately.
So I'm yet to be assigned a VK3 yet.

since then the bairnsdale radio group disbanded and reformed somehow.

Will tackle that after I return from the states in august.

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dranoweb

14th April 2016, 09:16 PM

Found a more legal and type approved UHF at work today with.remote head.

Wired power, antenna, remote head, mic extension, and magnetically attached an extension speaker to the roll bar.

Also connected the solar regulator too.
40 watts of solar on the roof to keep the battery topped up on long stop overs.

Battery bay is getting a little crowded now.

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87County

14th April 2016, 09:20 PM

Found a more legal and type approved UHF at work today with.remote head.

..........

Don't quite know what you mean by "more legal" ? are some UHFs more legal than others ?

.... will you hear anything on the radio when you go over 90kph :D ?

dranoweb

14th April 2016, 09:45 PM

Don't quite know what you mean by "more legal" ? are some UHFs more legal than others ?

.... will you hear anything on the radio when you go over 90kph :D ?

An amateure 50 watt vhf/uhf/am air band is not very legal when one is still awaiting their licence.

A 5watt 477mhz uhf thats type approved is "more" legal.
the acma set the power limit for the uhf cb band plan to a max of 5 watts.

And the 5 watt extension speaker overhead solves that. Also I try not to push mine past 80 - top speed for 4th gear according to specs, and I'm not in a hurry to get anywhere.

I've actually fixed many of the rattles.

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Chris078

14th April 2016, 10:38 PM

dranoweb

15th April 2016, 06:40 AM

Have you got a normal GS drano?
I thought only the 6x6s were limited to 80.
Though I do find that the effort/concentration required to drive at 85-90 is significantly less than that required at 100.
Plus less noise.

The keys are a pest.
The proper blanks are Silca Ne26. They can use Ne38 but they need to cut them back on the sides so the key fits all the way into the lock.

I spoke to british 4x4 imports, they are sending me new lock barrels and 4 keys free of charge.

as for speed. 80 feels right. 90-100 feels like I'm pushing it too hard.

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dranoweb

15th April 2016, 05:38 PM

Got the radio mounted behind driver's seat today.

Also spotted a camo series 3 in town today. Not sure where he's heading.

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BadCo.

15th April 2016, 06:15 PM

...
as for speed. 80 feels right. 90-100 feels like I'm pushing it too hard.

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That's the 4BD1 begging for more :D

Bigger tires and a turbo and soon you'll be speeding without realising it.

dranoweb

15th April 2016, 06:38 PM

And doing more maintenance....

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dranoweb

16th April 2016, 07:12 PM

Used CDL in anger for the first time.

Made it to a childhood campsite I haven't seen in 15 years.

A little overgrown after black saturday fires, and evidence of 4x4's that only made it out in peices.

Very impressed at the perentie's performance. I think I've learnt enough about this creature to take it over the high plains next month.

Found myself some new stalking grounds on the way too.

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Chris078

18th April 2016, 06:58 PM

gave up on adjusting the clutch master cylinder and decided while the bonnet was off, I should put in the sound insulation that I've had sitting here for months.

Put a layer of this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Car-Builders-Sound-Deadener-Stage-1-Noise-Block-hotrod-minitruck-custom-1-8sq-/222084564050?hash=item33b5458452:g:i7oAAOSw2GlXDW~ y) down on the flat parts of the bonnet

Then this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/UNDER-BONNET-INSULATOR-SOUND-DEADENEING-UNIVERSAL-LINER-INSTALL-KIT-/151524424298?hash=item23478f3a6a) over the top.

wow, what a difference. I'd say it's knocked off 20% of the noise putting around town and a good 40% on the highway.

The exhaust drone is now by far the loudest noise in the cab (until the wind grabs the canopy and gives it a good slap that is) and you can have a conversation past 80 km/hr!

Mick_Marsh

18th April 2016, 07:54 PM

Chris078

19th April 2016, 08:03 AM

Photos, please, Chris.

My camera has died, so no photos sadly. not that there is actually that much to see.
It just looks like the picture of the underside of a bonnet in
this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Under-Bonnet-Insulation-acoustic-foam-with-OEM-polyurethane-coating-/151487459886?hash=item23455b322e:g:e2IAAOSwkNZUccz 0) link . It's a bit of a PITA to get the black insulation to stick properly over the support brackets. If I were to do it again, I'd put it on side to side instead of front to back, I think it might be easier to mold over the supports that way.

Chris078

20th April 2016, 04:54 PM

Strange I can't edit my last post to add a link.
anyway, here are some photos (https://imgur.com/a/HTDz3) for you .
excuse the ordinary quality, the camera on my phone is a bit of a potato.

dranoweb

20th April 2016, 05:27 PM

Like most forums, i believe there is a time limit on editing

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Mick_Marsh

20th April 2016, 05:49 PM

Like most forums, i believe there is a time limit on editing

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Yep. But if you need to edit a post, you can contact your friendly moderator an ask them.
If they are not around, you could try PMing me.

wpalmo

22nd April 2016, 01:20 PM

Hi All,

I had a crack at fabricating a towbar for the RFSV with a lot of help from Brad who runs Wangarra Welding. Brad did all the welding around my original design proposal. It is very tight to get it to all fit so that the spare wheel can still be lowered and raised as well as working around the exhaust bracket but still utilising the pintal hitch mounting.

I didn't have to drill any holes in the chassis as the arms that go back to the main chassis rails are clamped on with M16 high tensile bolts. Should be able to tow my No5 and my conventional tandem when I put the ball receiver into the new towbar bracket.

Just not sure if I should splice into the trailer pin wiring loom and wire up the 7 pin Utilux socket so I have both sockets or fabricate an adaptor from the 12 pin NATO plug to a 7 pin Utilux male socket. Has any one on the forum done an adaptor like this? Sort of don't really feel comfortable cutting into the original wiring loom but maybe I am being a bit to precious. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Once it is galvanised and mounted I will post a few images of it all bolted up. Hope it works how I envisaged!

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/240.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Fyo4r5)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/241.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Fyoe5U)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/242.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Fyzsq8)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/243.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GrxtzU)

dranoweb

22nd April 2016, 01:42 PM

Towbar is looking really good.

I'm doung drive flange bolt replacement all round and clean and replace all fuses.

Found a couple of bonuses too...

They could possibly account for my random shorts, given their location.

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87County

22nd April 2016, 01:44 PM

looks good Warrick , thanks for posting :)

I have an adapter so I can use the Perentie outlet ( mil to 7pin flat) - works fine

wpalmo

22nd April 2016, 02:07 PM

looks good Warrick , thanks for posting :)

I have an adapter so I can use the Perentie outlet ( mil to 7pin flat) - works fine

Thanks mate. Did you make up the adaptor yourself? I will have to get hold of a NATO male socket though. Any idea where you can source one from?

Regards Warrick.

87County

22nd April 2016, 02:53 PM

Here is mine

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/261.jpg (http://s296.photobucket.com/user/dugite1/media/IMG_1787_zpspj0xdosq.jpg.html)

Lots of buyers of No.5s have changed the male (trailer) plug for an alternative - the plugs will will be about, just a little hard to find :).

Try posting a wanted message on here or join remlr.com (if you haven't already) and try there. Or look on gumtree?

There is a smart move which means that you don't need a "nato" plug. Some have done this - tap into the vehicle plug wiring before the plug and and patch/join wiring for a female plug of your choice onto it. You then retain the fixed "nato" plug in use on the vehicle, as well as have the plug system of your choice. Wish I had thought of it....

Carzee

22nd April 2016, 05:27 PM

I see you have an original Hella flash pod, transparent blue. Its expensive, unless you buy the cheaper chinese version they now sell (generic black looks like the one sold at SCA).

Its a special flasher that senses when the trailer blinkers are connected; it sends a current to the 2nd flasher indicator in the array of pretty lights in the dash just in front of the steering wheel (so when the trailer is connected there are two blinker lights going off in the array - apparently this idea is from high end marques like Range Rover and Mercedes Jaguar etc. Never having owned one of those I think its a tad posh. The idea of a dusty no frills Perentie with something posh and impractical appeals to my sense of humour).

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachments/coil-sprung-military-land-rovers/108441d1461300094-what-did-you-do-your-perentie-today-1461300093728.jpg

dranoweb

22nd April 2016, 06:57 PM

Seems perfectly practical to me in a vehicle prone to wiring failures, as is the brake wear indicator.

In poking around behind the dash today, i busted the backlight fitting from my speedo, just after I nade a temporary bypass to get them going again.

So, i took the opportunity to dismantle, service and fit LED backlight to the speedo.

Used a green 10mm 9000mcd led with a 390 ohm resistor on the cathode, as my originals had green filters

I had a little fun with hot glue and heat shrink to make a strain relief (not shown).

peliminary diagnosis suggests that the dimmer is faulty too tired after all the efforts today to chase that. At least I'm road legal again.

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dranoweb

22nd April 2016, 07:04 PM

A few more happy snaps...

note to self, get glue gun and stop using ciggy lighter and glue stick.

And also in need of a dash light facade.
i have coloured squares telling me stuff is happening.

Red means pull over and scratch head - green is normall stuff and blue is road burners, that's all I know...

That and aparently I gain an extra axle by engaging cdl...

I may have the 6x6 dash...
i had one 6x6 wiper arm when I got it.

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mick88

23rd April 2016, 06:42 AM

Today mine will get a new headlight switch fitted which hopefully will rectify a few problems with the lights. Then it's time to blow the dust out of it, give it a good wash, and generally a "pretty up" for ANZAC Day!

Cheers, Mick.

dranoweb

23rd April 2016, 06:57 AM

I'm visiting my local military museum today, to add an anzac day show program to the light and sound show.

Expecting the perentie to get dragged into procedings too.

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mick88

23rd April 2016, 07:36 AM

Hi All,

Just not sure if I should splice into the trailer pin wiring loom and wire up the 7 pin Utilux socket so I have both sockets or fabricate an adaptor from the 12 pin NATO plug to a 7 pin Utilux male socket. Has any one on the forum done an adaptor like this? Sort of don't really feel comfortable cutting into the original wiring loom but maybe I am being a bit to precious. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Regards Warrick.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/240.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Fyo4r5)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/241.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Fyoe5U)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/242.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Fyzsq8)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2016/04/243.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/GrxtzU)

This has worked well for me so far.
Started off as a temporary "fix" and is doing the job asked of it without any hiccups.

Cheers, Mick.

Jonnooh

23rd April 2016, 09:11 PM

Chris078

24th April 2016, 03:37 PM

Fixing the wiring to the left rear lights on my perentie I discovered both this light and the wires for the 12 pin NATO socket connect to a bunch of bullet connectors located behind the right mud flap, right behind the right rear lights. You should be able to simply plug the wires for a 7 pin socket into this. However, if its like mine it would also be pretty filthy..
Jon

Mine was solid mud from that mud flap strengthener to the floor when I bought it.
Had to chip the wiring out of the mud!

I lopped off the NATO socket and wired in a new 7 pin socket.
in retrospect I wish I had left it in and got a socket someone has taken off a trailer and made an adapter.
Either method is fairly simple as long as you identify the wires correctly.

dranoweb

24th April 2016, 07:31 PM

replaced lock barrels, waterproofed canvass and adjusted steering box again today.

slave labor from the museum was handy for the 3 handed lock barrel replacement.

mick88

24th April 2016, 09:26 PM

replaced lock barrels, waterproofed canvass and adjusted steering box again today.

slave labor from the museum was handy for the 3 handed lock barrel replacement.

What did you seal the canvas with?

Cheers, Mick.

dranoweb

24th April 2016, 09:59 PM

Originally I had used a very expensive compound "nano technology" stuff in a spray bottle. Not useful at all.

Picked up two tins of silicone spray pack from aussie disposals for about $10 a tin.
one tin did the whole lot.

I was having trouble with the sewn in hootchie cord wicking water in and dripping inside. So i sprayed all exposed cordage and stitching first then covered the rest top down.

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dranoweb

25th April 2016, 03:15 PM

So my perentie tried to kill me today.

Came round a corner with a load of wood on, heard a loud twang, and then my steering locked up.

In the mean time I had crossed an oncomming lane and was veering back towards a big ditch.

I rode the clutch round and gave the wheel everything I had and got partly straight again and managed to pull it up off the road, after narrowly missing some signs and a huge tree.

I shut it all down and got out to check. A few seconds later another ex 4/19 member pulled up as he was on his way past.

Between us we worked out it was the uni joint sheild near the steering box, that had snagged on the grease nipple of the joint.

As my tool box was burried under a load of wood, removal was not an option, and was not game to drive it home that way.

So gave it a good bend.
simple fix but holy hell is it a scary thing to happen at speed.

Admin - feel free to edit that.

If you aren't already aware of this potential, I highly recomend you make some adjustments.

On the plus side I found where the scraping sound was coming from when I corner sharply at maccas drive through.

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Barefoot Dave

25th April 2016, 06:25 PM

Ho leee crap!:eek:
Struth mate, I have never seen that before.
You almost added a 'Perentie as killer' story to the lexicon ;)
Glad you are ok an the situation presented a solution to another issue. Almost makes the terror worth it.

almost.

mick88

25th April 2016, 06:36 PM

Was the shield already bent down pre this incident?

Cheers, Mick.

dranoweb

25th April 2016, 06:39 PM

Was the guard already bent down pre this incident?

Cheers, Mick.

The guard plate as seen in the images, is after bending away from the uni joint.

Before hand it was perpendicular to the body and very close to the uni joint.

It appeared to be in factory poisition.

And what I took for a grease nipple is actually the clamping screw from the joint clamp.

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mick88

25th April 2016, 07:05 PM

Yes I thought you may have meant the bolt as I didn't think there was a grease nipple on there. I wonder if the bolt has been replaced at some time with a longer than necessary one.

Cheers, Mick.

dranoweb

25th April 2016, 07:37 PM

Yes I thought you may have meant the bolt as I didn't think there was a grease nipple on there. I wonder if the bolt has been replaced at some time with a longer than necessary one.

Cheers, Mick.

In either case it's a deadly problem with an easy fix. Probably worth checking if you own one.

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cummo

25th April 2016, 10:00 PM

Lucky mate......bet the heart took a while to slow down.

Yeah, I've never liked that guard mainly beacause it's such a PITA to install once removed. Can't understand what would have caused it to deflect enough to interfere with the steering shaft universal. From memory it mounts square off the inner guard and there are no slotted holes in either the bracket or the inner guard - where it is is where it is. Might be worth a lottery ticket I reckon.

Cheers, Dave.

dranoweb

25th April 2016, 10:21 PM

Normally I'm one to chase little squeaks and clunks no matter how small

I like to think it's why I very rarely have breakdowns.

In this case I had been too busy.
but it's going on my service checklist.

First instinct said I had dropped a tie rod end, as I'm planning to replace them soon.

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Chris078

26th April 2016, 05:57 AM

lucky one Drano. Glad you survived without injury.
Looks like that shield has copped a hit at some point seeing how the bend is quite rusty. maybe someone dropped a tool or something on it and bent it without realizing.

New Tie rod ends make a huge difference. I paid extra to get some good ones from the UK with grease nipples (most don't have them anymore, which is annoying)
Worth checking your Pitman arm balljoint and rear A frame joint while you're at it. Mine were completely flogged out, dryer than dust and corroded to hell. Another example of what the "roadworthy" that Frontline Machinery/Grays provide is worth.
Getting them all in the same go can save you a motza in shipping costs.
Tip, if you need a rear A frame ball joint, get the one that is already in the bracket.
It's actually cheaper that way because getting the old balljoint out of the bracket (if it comes out) and the new one in is a PITA and the labor costs more than the whole new part! found that one out the expensive way.
It's the same with the Pitman arm. A new pitman arm with balljoint already installed can be bought and installed cheaper than it costs to R&R the existing one.

BadCo.

26th April 2016, 07:34 AM

Took some rubbish off Hank yesterday, still need to get the diff head light and black out switch off.

Lotz-A-Landies

26th April 2016, 09:41 AM

Took some rubbish off Hank yesterday, still need to get the diff head light and black out switch off.Are you going to preserve them so that the next owner, who may be a military vehicle enthusiast, can restore the vehicle to its origins? (particularly in Kiwi land)

I know that when the SIII and SIIa FFR came out of service all the specialist radio and power distribution parts were usually removed and disposed of. 20 or 30 years later finding the parts for a full restoration can be a long and frustrating task.

i.e. In a decade of looking I have never found one of the rectifier units that sat behind the grill of the SII 24V FFW.

What did I do? Yesterday 50-422 got a bath and baby oil, complete clean out/vacuum and damp dusting. In the afternoon complete with the green radios and full compliment of antennae had pride of place escorting some of our Club's armoured vehicles to ANZAC Day parade and service at Glenorie.

(FV-701 Mk1/2 Daimler Ferret, FV-701 Mk2 Daimler Ferret, FV-601 Alvis Saladin)

BadCo.

26th April 2016, 09:44 AM

Are you going to preserve them so that the next owner, who may be a military vehicle enthusiast, can restore the vehicle to its origins? (particularly in Kiwi land)

I know that when the SIII and SIIa FFR came out of service all the specialist radio and power distribution parts were usually removed and disposed of. 20 or 30 years later finding the parts for a full restoration can be a long and frustrating task.

i.e. In a decade of looking I have never found one of the rectifier units that sat behind the grill of the SII 24V FFW.

I will be buried in my truck ;)

I might offer them up to another enthusiast to enjoy, but they certainly won't be binned!

dranoweb

26th April 2016, 10:38 AM

I may be interested. I could trade a few things.

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dranoweb

26th April 2016, 05:38 PM

Just discovered i have a leaking pinion seal on the rear diff... two weeks from a "big" adventure.

Dammit, now i have to work out how to get it apart.

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Lotz-A-Landies

26th April 2016, 05:45 PM

Just discovered i have a leaking pinion seal on the rear diff... two weeks from a "big" adventure.

Dammit, now i have to work out how to get it apart.
I had a Sals with a leaking pinion and the problem was a scored shaft. Took it to a diff specialist and they repaired the pinion with a speedy sleeve type process and reassembled the diff in less than a day.

Chris078

26th April 2016, 05:50 PM

I had a Sals with a leaking pinion and the problem was a scored shaft. Took it to a diff specialist and they repaired the pinion with a speedy sleeve type process and reassembled the diff in less than a day.

what did that lighten your wallet by?

Lotz-A-Landies

26th April 2016, 05:57 PM

Would have to look for an invoice, but IIRC the price wasn't too bad. Pretty sure it was less than $200 for parts and labour and worthwhile for peace of mind. (You don't get out of anywhere for less than $100)

dranoweb

26th April 2016, 06:10 PM

BadCo.

26th April 2016, 06:19 PM

Just discovered i have a leaking pinion seal on the rear diff... two weeks from a "big" adventure.

Dammit, now i have to work out how to get it apart.

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Take some spare oil with you and deal with it when you get back.

Chris078

26th April 2016, 06:21 PM

Mick_Marsh

26th April 2016, 06:30 PM

I haven't got the time to arrange that and I live a long way from the nearest specialist. I have located a new seal, with luck and a couple of mechanic mates I might get it satisfactory for the 4 dag trip over the dargo high plains, and do a proper job on my return.

Option two is top it up with oil regularly.

Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app
I did the speedy sleeve thing twenty odd years ago. It wasn't that difficult.
The problem I have nowdays is finding a speedy sleeve.
Change the pinion seal. If it still leaks, keep the diff topped up until you can do a more permanent fix.
How bad is it leaking? It's amazing how little diff oil can make a big mess.

dranoweb

26th April 2016, 06:38 PM

Looks to.be a growing issue. Will take picture shortly

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Lotz-A-Landies

26th April 2016, 09:24 PM

I did the speedy sleeve thing twenty odd years ago. It wasn't that difficult.
The problem I have nowdays is finding a speedy sleeve.
Change the pinion seal. If it still leaks, keep the diff topped up until you can do a more permanent fix.
How bad is it leaking? It's amazing how little diff oil can make a big mess.We changed the seal, but the scoring on the pinion was so bad it started leaking within less than 50km, I guess only an inspection will reveal the need for more work than just the seal.

Remember there is a crush tube on the pinion. If you change the seal yourself, make sure that you also replace the crush tube and torque it up to spec.

dranoweb

27th April 2016, 06:11 AM

Im not sure i've ever heard the term crush tube.
any suggestions where I might find one?

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87County

27th April 2016, 08:07 AM

We changed the seal, but the scoring on the pinion was so bad it started leaking within less than 50km, I guess only an inspection will reveal the need for more work than just the seal.

Remember there is a crush tube on the pinion. If you change the seal yourself, make sure that you also replace the crush tube and torque it up to spec.

If you haven't got access to a replacement crush tube ensure that it is tightened to the same point it was undone from (mark the nut before undoing !). This has worked for me when necessary.

dranoweb

27th April 2016, 11:14 AM

If you haven't got access to a replacement crush tube ensure that it is tightened to the same point it was undone from (mark the nut before undoing !). This has worked for me when necessary.

That would be in keeping with youtube videos i have been watching.

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Bearman

1st May 2016, 05:58 PM

Finally got around to making a console for Brutus. It fits between the seats and houses the Codan HF, a double din Pioneer radio/stereo, 2 double heavy duty double power sockets, extra switches for things like LR fuel tank transfer pump, LED lights inside the tray canopy and a few extra for things to come. I made it from 2mm alum sheet and then folded it and covered in carpet.

87County

1st May 2016, 06:44 PM

That is really neat Brian - well done :)

I like the hat holders ....

rfurzer

1st May 2016, 07:44 PM

I had fun driving in the wind and rain. Not a drop

dranoweb

1st May 2016, 08:11 PM

Lots of wind and rain here too.
I need new door seals.

Also repainted andvrefitted bonnet acoutrements.

Refitted minimal lights.

touched up waterproofing I missed.
removed another 9mm fuse.

Attached - image of the last 9mm fuse I found:

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dranoweb

5th May 2016, 04:54 PM

Bit of an update on my dealings.
procured a replacement pinion seal - and have mustered the funds and arranged a mechanic to do the seal replacement for me. He's involved with an auto engineer that used to race them - knows his landies pretty well.

in the mean time, leaking clutch slave ran out of fluid on the way to work today, so I'm now in a race to replace it before I have to travel mid week.

but... that's another topic.

Barefoot Dave

5th May 2016, 09:58 PM

Ups and downs, eh mate?
Good luck with it.

dranoweb

6th May 2016, 10:49 PM

Replaced my clutch slave cylinder today.
process went smoothly as did the bleeding procedure.

still got some mysterious free play in the clutch - does not appear to be loose nuts, but instead something further up the line- hoping it's not something busted near the fork.

dranoweb

7th May 2016, 03:28 PM

Clutch now ok. Free play gone.

Changed fuel filter, but couldn't find the hidden filter in the banjo bolt. I removed and checked both.

Engine seems to run much more freely now. Also had good practice with the hand pump on the fuel pump.

Reinstated bonnet acoutrements and procured bonnet tools.
added rtv gasket maker under them after a wire wheel and repaint to keep dirt out.

Replaced all bolts with stainless and bigger washers, with nylocks.

Painted up new tools in lieu of neatsfoot oil.

Also reinstalled minimal lights with the exception of the front parkers - getting in behind that fender with a tiny nylock was a bit much.

Overnight i designed and 3d printed An adjustable throttle stopper aka "poor man's cruise control".

Needs a couple of design changes.
I'll release the source and completed files to the AULRO community when working.

Oh yes and did final stering box adjustment today.

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Mick_Marsh

7th May 2016, 04:25 PM

Stainless reacts with the aluminium. You're better off using plated.

Ah, yes. You painted your bonnet tools.
So did I.
The army didn't.
I wish I hadn't.

If you think I'm saying you're silly, bear in mind, I painted two sets. Double bugger.

dranoweb

7th May 2016, 04:52 PM

I painted for functionality rather than looks.

Have done so in the past with good result

Aware of the stainless issue. Plated were unavailable in 6mm.

I have found that a good coating of fish of prolongs the reaction.

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BadCo.

7th May 2016, 06:29 PM

Mick_Marsh

7th May 2016, 06:35 PM

Whats wrong with painted tools?
Absolutely nothing if you want to paint them.

BadCo.

7th May 2016, 06:36 PM

Absolutely nothing if you want to paint them.

I don't get it...

Summiitt

7th May 2016, 07:21 PM

Back in February I purchased a 6x6 perentie as a support truck for a forestry contract, it was dollar for dollar the only vehicle capable of carrying the load required in the terrain we were working in. The ute carries 450 litres diesel, 450litres water plus fire fighting pumps, air compressor, air greasing system, generator, chainsaws, 100litres of lubricants, road signs, huge tool box filled with tools plus spares for the machines.. The only additional work we did was to lower the canopy and to have the canvas retrimmed to suit, LED lights everywhere, and a UHF.. It's still running tubed Michelin 750/16 which is a disaster, slowly removing them as they go flat, due to the weight I'll also go to new rims and probably 265/75/16 tyres. After 2.5 months the only issues have been spinning drive flanges, and a ripped out brake line on the rear axle, given the terrain we are in, I'm happy with its performance.. But it loves a drink of diesel.. Lucky I've got plenty onboard..

Mick_Marsh

7th May 2016, 07:57 PM

I don't get it...
We've all bought our Perenties for different reasons.

Some bought theirs as a work truck. Thanks for the example, Summiitt.
Some bought theirs as a daily drive.
Some bought theirs as a weekend fun truck.
Some bought theirs as a tourer.
Some bought theirs to preserve a bit of military history.
Some bought theirs to create a variant that might not be released.
Some bought theirs to display. Some go to the nth degree in presentation.

We all bought Perenties for various reasons. The reasons aren't wrong.

I bought mine to keep it as much "in service" as I can, and transport other treasures about the place. Hence the paint on tools comment.
Anyone got a RBS70 and it's launcher?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_JuJ0n2tEU

dranoweb

8th May 2016, 11:02 AM

Visitied my old unit on base today - had to get a ticket as I'm a civvie now days.

My landie got to meet with some of the next generation...

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Mick_Marsh

8th May 2016, 11:23 AM

Thanks.
So, from the photo's, there is at least one RFSV to come through the auctions.

dranoweb

8th May 2016, 11:26 AM

Thanks.
So, from the photo's, there is at least one RFSV to come through the auctions.

Two...

51-636 and 51-706
And a couple of 6x6's not out on show.

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Carzee

8th May 2016, 11:49 AM

I have grays photos of 51-706, already gone thru.

Carzee

8th May 2016, 11:53 AM

while I'm here.. from last weekend, when it wasn't raining like today, it was just a ---- gale.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=97_ccXKLLXA

dranoweb

8th May 2016, 01:08 PM

I have grays photos of 51-706, already gone thru.

51-703 sorry. Had to check my photos.

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dranoweb

8th May 2016, 03:27 PM

Revised my "cruise control unit" design today.

I was sick of the old wood block method so I designed and adjustable hand throttle adjuster for those long trips, where you need more than one block of wood.

Land Rover Cruise Control by Dranoweb - Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1547905)

If you aren't the 3d printing sort, I may be persuaded to make a few "samples" and send them out to people for a couple of bucks.

BadCo.

8th May 2016, 03:29 PM

We've all bought our Perenties for different reasons.

Some bought theirs as a work truck. Thanks for the example, Summiitt.
Some bought theirs as a daily drive.
Some bought theirs as a weekend fun truck.
Some bought theirs as a tourer.
Some bought theirs to preserve a bit of military history.
Some bought theirs to create a variant that might not be released.
Some bought theirs to display. Some go to the nth degree in presentation.

We all bought Perenties for various reasons. The reasons aren't wrong.

I bought mine to keep it as much "in service" as I can, and transport other treasures about the place. Hence the paint on tools comment.
Anyone got a RBS70 and it's launcher?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_JuJ0n2tEU

Noooo, you said: "I wish I hadn't" inferring you realised it was a bad idea after you did it. Like it ruined some functional use or something.

Just wondering why you wished you had not painted them...