Sounds like a classic viscous clutch failure to me if it has one ?
Definately NOT spending money on a 3.9 beyond sensors, filters, etc. If the heads come off, the engine comes out - for good, but I need to be definate about the cause before doing this. Cost of converstion doesn't bother me, I just want a car I can drive when I want to.
The frustrating thing with all of this is that this whole combo - engine, trans, rad - everything, was in a mates Disco and ran perfectly in that vehicle. It was only removed as he was wrecking the car as it was worth more in parts - that's the only reason I would have spent any money on a 3.9 in the first place.
So, what would cause one to run fine for and have a consitant temperature for 15 minute - this is after the thermostat has opened - in all traffic conditions from sitting in traffic to 110 on the freeway - temps changed between 81 and 84, then all of a sudden, just cruising along at 50, the temp starts to climb to a point I have to shut the engine down.
No rattles or anything from the engine, it runs smooth as a nut - what should I be checking, because it's got me stuffed...
I've seen several and I see nothing wrong with them. At least they aren't prone to ****ting heads or worse when the temp gets above freezing...
Oh, and parts are cheap and plentiful compared to Rovers offering.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Sounds like a classic viscous clutch failure to me if it has one ?
MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
1998 Triumph Daytona T595
1974 VW Kombi bus
1958 Holden FC special sedan
Thanks, but it's brand new, and testing shows it works perfectly - it roars on startup, and I can hear it start to roar as the temp moves past 90 just before I shut it down. Once shut down when hot, I can feel it is quite tight to turn, not loose like it is when it's cold. Also, the car starts to overheat when moving freely, not stopped in traffic.
But, I'm going back to the start of my diagnostics, so I'll definately recheck all this. What sort of road speed would you think is enough to allow full cooling of the engine without the need for the fan to do anything? This may give me something extra to check.
Cheers.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Mate chev`s are for one eyed female colly wobble supporters
Do a 351W conversion thats what real men drive
Thats what old beared mate Marcus recon`s![]()
The boss has a Cleveland. He reckons they never get hot. Always run cool.
Now, under the cover of darkness, while he is not around, we could try that Cleveland in your Classic but it would be a shame to remove the motor from such a lovely XA GT.
You wouldn't consider a 185i from a VR Commodore?
An intermittent blockage of an engine water gallery? Something was dislodged in the move from the Disco to the RR?
We know the radiator was recently rodded. How long was the block dry before it was filled? Maybe the water galleries have a layer of insulating corrosion on them?
Maybe try running some acidic cooling system cleaner through the system.
Such a behaviour to me suggests something failing during operation as opposed to something there from the beginning.
Sent from my HTC One using AULRO mobile app
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
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