Not a shagged stepper motor?
Dumb question timeThere must be a cold start timer on these engines. When cold started on petrol it gets so overfueled it will barely run... for about 10seconds. Then it's good as gold. I reckon the cold start timer will be dead or unplugged. Does anyone have any ideas
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Not a shagged stepper motor?
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Sounds like I'm trying to do a warm start on a carby motor with the choke full out! I'm assuming there is a timer based cold start on them. As the enrichment suddenly switches off. I will however pull the idle stepper motor off and give it a clean
It's idle does randomly fall through the floor, but I put this down to the ancient impco gas kit.
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
Your excess enrichment may be due to there still being LPG held in the converter from the previous run. Was it switched off last on petrol or LPG?
Possibly the MAF is giving a poor signal, try swapping it. Cold starts are only controlled by the temperature sender for the ECU, its the 2 wire plug nearest to the thermostat just in front of the plenum, check it for tightness. Also check the vacuum hose on the fuel pressure regulator, a failed reg will dribble all of the remaining pressure from the previous run into the manifold.
To find out how well the petrol works on its own, just remove the 5 screws holding the lid on the Impco mixer, remove the diaphragm and spring, refit the cover and drive it. Those mixers can cut power by 25% easily. A different (ring type) mixer and matching converter setup will make a huge difference. Then there's sequential vapour injection, which I am now getting from the UK at around 1/2 the price I used to get it here, even before the $A tanked.
As for the random idle, try raising the base idle using the 3/16 allen key plug in the recess on top of the throttle body. A base idle of at least 500rpm gives the IAC motor more latitude to function without stalling.
Perfect ... thanks! I'll try all those suggestions, they make a huge amount of sense. I might move the low milage OMVL R90 /E with mixer ring over from the automatic and see what difference it makes. I'm pretty sure all the eletrical system will work, but just be driving a different converter. I can just switch them back if it makes no difference. With to basically identical cars here I can play "swap" until the symptoms change to figure out any issues.
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
You were right about the cold start being incredibly rich. To test it I started it this morning and as soon as it started running lumpy as buggery, I flicked it to gas. It smoothed out instantly. So your right, it's sucking gas as well as fuel. I'm going to move the mixer ring and OMVL mixer over and see the difference as soon as I get a chance
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
hey mate good to see someone fixing up an old rangie.
if you want a good transfer case. i have one in sydney you are welcome to have
thanks hayden
What a generous offer! Sadly there is no way I could get it here easilyI have a gearbox and boxes of parts here for someones old Citroen up in Brisbane too... But it's just so expensive to move these heavy parts around.
First thing I needed to do before the boss women went in the car was fix the A/C. You know, beside the battery there was a dirty connection onto the condenser... but it didnt' look like fresh oil.... I stuck a new 'O'ring in there either way.
Look at all the hose joiners and connectors! This must be to "T" the discovery A/C pump into the classic. Everything is dry and clean. The 'vac pump wasn't running super quiet, so there is still a slight leak somewhere. If the gas leaks again quickly I'll have to pull the evaporator out. I reckon most of the gas had leaked away because the low side service cap was loose. It's a bubbly service valve too. Without the 'O'ring in the lid of the service valve cap screwed down tight, the gas would have leaked away pretty quickly.
Anyway, I took the boss women for a drive ..... The A/C is nice and cold, but gee's it's loud and vibrates the hell out of the dash .... Just like the sister car beside it. She then watched me try to put on the right hand indicator about 5times and said "Why the hell do you want another car just the same, it even has all the same problems". She just doesn't appreciate decent cars with some soul to them ... that's what I tell her![]()
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Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
And just like magic ... we went from this ...
It only took about an hour to move that over .... It certainly seems to go a lot better. And the stepper motor now seems to regulator the idle nicely. I did manage to get the idle to cycle crazily at one point. It would rev to 1600rpm .. .massively over-correct back to 300rpm .... the massively over-correct to 1600rpm etc.... I haven't managed to get it to do it a 2nd time yet. But I reckon it's 'cos there is no load of a torque converter on it to slow the reaction of the stepper motor. I'm not sure how to fix that. I'll get some aerostart later and spray around the mixer ring and ensure it's 'O'ring isn't letting air in. That might effect idle as it could draw air that isn't passing through the mixer ring.
this will be why it was runnng on both gas and LPG when flicking from gas back to petrol. The clown that fitted the gas kit, fitted the cut-off solenoid backwards (I wonder if that matters ?).
Check this out .... That IMPCO kit is like shoving a bloody cork in the intake. That is a staggering amount of restriction!
I'll be interested to see if the previous owner thinks it's runs any differently when I catch up with him!
seeya,
Shane L.
Proper cars--
'92 Range Rover 3.8V8 ... 5spd manual
'85 Series II CX2500 GTi Turbo I :burnrubber:
'63 ID19 x 2 :wheelchair:
'72 DS21 ie 5spd pallas
Modern Junk:
'07 Poogoe 407 HDi 6spd manual :zzz:
'11 Poogoe RCZ HDI 6spd manual
LPG solenoids are spring loaded so that they can easily pass LPG against their normal flow direction. Basically you would drain the line to the tanks with that setup and an Impco converter before it stopped running on gas. The OMVL has a vapour solenoid on it but that only stops part of the flow so I suggest you get a proper underbonnet lock off for the LPG and fit it. These also come with a mandatory filter that stops loose crud from blocking the valve open.
Example of a new one:
LPG Under Bonnet Bowel GAS Lock OFF Solenoid Valve Filter | eBay
You should be able to pick up a second hand one for not very much, there are always a few at every wreckers and some on ebay.
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