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Thread: What did you do on your Perentie Today.

  1. #1121
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Had a lucas moment last night, while reversing, heard the sound of electrical arcing. One headlight went out.
    I disengaged reverse and switched off headlights. When I switched them on again to confirn, both work again, but dash backlights now dont work.

    Its going to be a long weekend I think.



    go to this page
    Vehicle Wiring Diagrams - REMLR

    scroll down to the bottom till you find
    Land Rover 110 General Service (GS). EMEI G103 Issue 2

    download and save the 3 pages under that.

    Take them to OfficeWorks (or similar) and blow them up to A1 size.
    $2.30 a page, makes it far easier to read and follow the wiring.

    Also, consider buying one of these

    Headlight Wiring Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

    Much safer than the traditional LR wiring and will allow you to fit +130 bulbs which actually let you see something at night.

  2. #1122
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    363
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    I already have the diagrams.
    I'm also very experienced with vehicle electrics (and avionics)

    I have fitted an auxiliary fusebox in the battery bay for all my planned extras.

    Currently have a separate loom for headlights with 60a relay for halogen driving lights.

    I recently fitted a relay across the reversing light circuit to run my reverse lights and added a custom dash.

    I also re-instated the blackout switch.

    So there are a number of places I'll be checking first.

    Another thing I recently did was change the air filter, and may have dusturbed the plate that is known to chafe wiring.

    The sound was a destinct blade fue blowing sound.


    Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app
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  3. #1123
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Victoria
    Posts
    363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chris078 View Post
    [I]

    Also, consider buying one of these

    Headlight Wiring Kits | TRAXIDE - RV | Traxide - RV

    Much safer than the traditional LR wiring and will allow you to fit +130 bulbs which actually let you see something at night.
    I fitted sealed beams for water resistance reasons.
    I use auxiliary halgens.

    I'm in the process of upgrading and replacing much of the existing wiring.


    Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

  4. #1124
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    Brisbane
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    Ah! I remember that dash now.
    good luck in your search for the source, hopefully it's not too difficult a fix.

  5. #1125
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Victoria
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    I have a feeling it's got something do do with the melted connector on the driver's side headlight.

    Spotted it pre-roadworthy when changing lights.



    Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

  6. #1126
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Victoria
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    well I have dash lights again.
    couldn't find any blown fuses but pulled each and every fuse and inspected.
    Fuses 16, 18, 19 and 20 looked corroded and in poor condition so I replaced them.

    Bought myself a quality test screwdriver today and a big box of 230 fuses.

    I went so far as to remove the dash binnacle, and found I have a t2 wedge globe holder floating around loose, and I suspect it may have contacted the speedo cable - or something else.

    I didn't have dash lights until I put the test screwdriver in this holder and turned on ignition.

    I had however replaced fuses in between testing steps, so I suspect I just had a dodgy fuse somewhere.

    I've also wired one of my auxiliary switches to override the relay (with a thermal overload) on my aux driving lights so that if they ever drop on me at speed I can turn them on long enough to pull over.

    My fuse cover was all but missing, and unreadable, so I had to print a spare for now.
    found a good image on REMLR:

    Any idea what fuse 18 is?
    I assume 19 is washers/wipers, and 20 is heater...

  7. #1127
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canbeera
    Posts
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    Cool.
    This symbol for 18, my best guess, is the disc brake pad wear warning setup. My FFR has the wires on the pads. Whether it works is an unknown. I know the RFSVs have it, and they began life as an FFR as well.

    We'll both have to go make coffee and await a guru with the correct info.

    I went thru the fuse box sort-out and put in all new fuses as you see in the thread on REMLR. I have had no electrical hassles since then.

  8. #1128
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Victoria
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    my brake warning wire is disconnected below.

    I'll do some testing when I reconnect it.

    Sent from my E6653 using AULRO mobile app

  9. #1129
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Sunshine Coast
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    Quote Originally Posted by dranoweb View Post
    Any idea what fuse 18 is?
    I assume 19 is washers/wipers, and 20 is heater...
    Air conditioning compressor clutch, fuse 17 is the AC fans. Another remnant of the loom being the civvy V8 issue.

  10. #1130
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    863
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    142.79 MB

    rear tailgate support bolts

    I'm about to replace the rear straps and supports on my Perentie as they are a mess. But I am intrigued by 2 of the bolts holding them in place.
    In the RPS they are listed as 6mmx20mm bolts, but those fitted in my Perentie are studs! And there is a long section sticking out which seems to do nothing. If one bolt was like this, I'd accept some mechanic fitted whatever he could find, but both sides are identical. Any ideas????
    Attached Images Attached Images

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