Thread: Hori Turbo Throw Together

Very nice Bad!!
Great report, keep it coming

Originally Posted by dingsy

Will this fit over the top of the acoustic cover with the standard bonnet?

no, you'll need a Puma style bonnet. I did it over the top of the acoustic cover on mine with the puma bonnet. (different brand intercooler but the same hight)

Looking awesome Badco!

Mine sucks the indicator through under any conditions on boost so you're not going to be missing much by removing it.

Clever idea to switch the heater matrix over - wish I'd thought of that! ahha would have saved me a heap of grief. I found that the heater was full of air as it was higher than the bleed point - installed a little bleed point on a T at the matrix... not sure if it gets cold up your way if you need more heat I'd recommend the mod.

Originally Posted by flagg

Looking awesome Badco!

Mine sucks the indicator through under any conditions on boost so you're not going to be missing much by removing it.

Clever idea to switch the heater matrix over - wish I'd thought of that! ahha would have saved me a heap of grief. I found that the heater was full of air as it was higher than the bleed point - installed a little bleed point on a T at the matrix... not sure if it gets cold up your way if you need more heat I'd recommend the mod.

Yeah I heard most people with snorkels trigger the indicator.

I'll keep the bleed mod in mind. The whole cooling system needs a proper filler/bleed point and a drain on the radiator

Small update!

I have tapped the EGT thermocouple hole (1/8th NPT).

Got a steel -10an fitting and welded it to the drain.

The brass bit is an adapter that goes into the block in place of the vacuum pump oil feed banjo, and tee's out to a -4an fitting and the vacuum pump oil feed banjo.




Also, they ran out of blue silicone hoses. So I am stuck with pink :S


Hopefully this weekend I'll glue the fittings together and put them on the engine. I can also do the ducting from the turbo adapter to the dummy WTA IC.

Theeeen, I just need to do the AN pipes between all the fittings and wait for the other pink hoses to arrive. Still need to buy an EGT gauge to block the hole and then I can test run!

Oh I forgot we also changed the fan belt and thermostat (plus seal). I'm half way through the battery isolator and still have to redo the gearbox and transfer case breathers.

Ok I've had a bit of **** luck lately.

When I finally got all the intake bits they ended fouling on the poor installed factory slave cylinder line.



So fine, what ever, I'll cut it our and put a flex line in.



A mechanic mate said I could borrow his flaring tool so hell yeah, saves me buying a tool I'll use once.

Picked it up and its a metric kit, and I think I need 1/4". FFS.

Ok fine, what ever, onto the next job until I source a tube flare kit.

Turbo oil drain.

Original plan was to use a -10an drain because I got a alumium flange off trademe that fit my turbo and was -10an.

Went to the HoseShop and got the bits to make the hose. Attached it to the previously made flange plate for the block.

..oh good, it fouls on the starter motor. Not just a bit too, there is bugger all chance of making that elbow fit or anything with a -10an nut on it. FFS!



So, I need a new plan for the drain, I also need to buy a tube flare kit. Good times.

IMO a proper fitted hose for the drain isn't required. There's no pressure to deal with so a some decent hose, barbed or beaded fittings and a couple of clamps will do the job well. Bonus is that its much less bulky than hose fittings so easier to run.

Keep at it, you're getting close to the whistle, smoke and smile stage now

Steve