Provided the radiator is not full off mud or massive corrosion.
The thermostat is the logical next step.
to night i was driving back from the shops 3-5ks stop in at macas had air con going and the old girl temp was on the red throught the roof so much pressure, after letting out pressure put some more water in and turn the air con off and drove on to home and she was in the red again
i left the cap off it filled the water ran the car againwinthin 5 mins water shoot out the over fill steaming hot
when all stettled down i checked for smal bubles and exhaust smell from the water, to which neither was pressent indercating head gaskets
could it be the thermistat???????????????????????????????????
any and all help be good
cheers matt
Provided the radiator is not full off mud or massive corrosion.
The thermostat is the logical next step.
I don't know were you live but when I brought the family down from QLD to Wagga I had a temp problem and it turned out to be bugs between the two radiator cores. When the dead bugs were cleaned out there has been no problems.
Cheers
Gazz
What engine?
Sitting (so no vehicle speed to aid air flow through radiator) with air con on can lead to overheating if your cooling system is not up to scratch.
Thermo fan may not be working properly.
Electrical fans in front of air con condenser may not be working properly. They should be running whenever air con is switched on and whenever coolant temp reaches setting of one of the temp switches.
Air con compressor clutch should have de-energised (another temp switch) before you got that hot.
After overheating and losing coolant, you most likely have developed air locks in the coolant system.
...and there's always the water pump to check after everything else.
MY15 Discovery 4 SE SDV6
Past: 97 D1 Tdi, 03 D2a Td5, 08 Kimberley Kamper, 08 Defender 110 TDCi, 99 Defender 110 300Tdi[/SIZE]
Matthewk.
After you earlier reporting dodgy heater operation and now this I would be hunting for air locks as well.
The Haynes manual on the subject of overheating makes specific mention of ineffective heater operation as an additional symptom indicating air locks.
Try bleeding the cooling system.
water pump looks new as to me,
but after driving around yesterday without A/c she did over heat once really, after closer inspection i fund driver side thermal fan not running even thouth its got power going to it
air locks? becaue im a tad stingy and dont own a manual yet for this car
how do you bleed out air locks in the system??
The cooling system should be pressurised, because this increases the boiling point.
With the cap off, the boiling point is not much higher than normal operating temps. So any decline in cooling ability will see the coolant boil, and you will loose coolant as you described.
Too high system pressure is consistent with; faulty filler cap, blown head gasket or boiling.
The fans often fail due to water ingress, poor quality.
Filling and bleeding the coolant system depends on what engine you have and could also depend on year model.
Edit: It takes a while to get the air out, you will probably have to elevate the front of the vehicle on car ramps.
Run the vehicle to operating temperature WITH THE HEATER ON (open).
Let it cool completely. Remove the filler cap and squeeze the lower radiator hose. If no change I'd suggest a proper system flush from a radiator joint.
By the way, the common opinion around here seems to be that the temperature gauge at normal sits just south of the halfway point. How's yours?
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