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Thread: TD5 Starter rebuild

  1. #21
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    Good write up thanks
    worked well.
    didn't have any problem with the top nut, bit of blind feel but that is all
    all nuts and bolts were tight so my little cheater bar helped.

    Remember to wear eye protection!

    Hay Ewe

  2. #22
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    Dredging up an old thread - anyone know how often the rebuild is likely to fix a problematic starter motor? I'd rather not go down this path if there's not much chance of success, but similarly would rather avoid replacing the whole starter motor if possible.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranga View Post
    Dredging up an old thread - anyone know how often the rebuild is likely to fix a problematic starter motor? I'd rather not go down this path if there's not much chance of success, but similarly would rather avoid replacing the whole starter motor if possible.
    Here's my note from my service record 12/11/2011 'Starter motor solenoid rebuild kit fitted. Just in time one contact was nearly gone, had been playing up for a month.'


    Just put a new kit in January 2016 after nearly catching fire, one of the plastic +electrical insulators had disintegrate causing a short. (took a while to figure that out while in the bush) Copper still had around 30% life left.

    So yeh the plunger kits are worth the effort. My D2 was driven every day during that stage.


  4. #24
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    Thanks - any recommended suppliers for the kit (and/or part numbers etc)?

  5. #25
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    Ingram Ashdown SLX75827 (contacts) and SLX75564 (plunger). About $50.

    Pete
    Dizzie, 08 D3 TDV6 SE

  6. #26
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  7. #27
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    TD5 Starter Rebuild

    Quote Originally Posted by Ranga View Post
    Dredging up an old thread - anyone know how often the rebuild is likely to fix a problematic starter motor? I'd rather not go down this path if there's not much chance of success, but similarly would rather avoid replacing the whole starter motor if possible.
    Hi Ranga,
    I recently went through the same issue.
    Had a few non-starting episodes (always came good after a few goes), then a few months all OK, then happened again in embarrassing circumstances.
    I would say that replacing the copper contacts for the solenoid switch, and the plunger that makes contact with them, is very likely to work.

    If not, you may also need to replace the actual brushes in the starter motor - I have not done that, and I think it is unlikely that will be necessary.

    A lot has been said about how difficult it is to get the starter motor off the engine, in particular the top nut (there are two BOLTS and one NUT).
    I think the difficulty is overstated.
    The nut is 15 mm.
    I did it with some help, and can say that a 3/8-inch wobble bar (6") with a 6-Point 15 mm socket is a great help.

    Have you now got this sorted ?
    If so, I need not go on.
    If not, I may have some useful suggestions.

    Andrew




  8. #28
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    Finally got around to it today. All straight forward, except the infamous top nut. One of the contacts was paper thin, the other looked fine, as did the plunger contact.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ranga View Post
    Finally got around to it today. All straight forward, except the infamous top nut. One of the contacts was paper thin, the other looked fine, as did the plunger contact.
    2 months hey, like living on the edge? As for the top nut, I think mine is still in the console.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by 999 View Post
    As for the top nut, I think mine is still in the console.
    I didn't say it was tight! Can't imagine how anyone could get a torque wrench on it...

    What made it slightly more difficult was my 2 extension bars were a bit long and a bit short.

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