Thread: The famous oil-pump bolt

FWIW the sump torque settings in RAVE and on Urban Panzers site are incorrect.

The sump gasket was redesigned to improve sealing between block and sump and the torque settings changed slightly. The four bolts at the rear of the sump should be torqued to 28nm, while the rest of the bolts are 25nm as per RAVE. It's not a huge difference but I haven't seen anyone mention this when discussing the oil pump bolt.

LR Tech bulletin covering this is attached for reference.

I was onto my father in law for ages to check his, and a well known Perth service agent ( independant ) told him nah L/R fixed the problem with the update D2a.
His was 1 of the very last D2a think 12/04 and at 100,000kms service my nagging him finaly got him to get it checked and it had worked itself loose to only having about 3 threads left holding the gear onto the pump.


Think its something to check reguardless of what year your TD5 engine is.

Cheers Ean

'03 d2a here. Bolt was tight but no signs of thread lock. I've heard of 03 and 04 models with loose bolts so I'd get it checked regardless of year.

Originally Posted by OffTrack

FWIW the sump torque settings in RAVE and on Urban Panzers site are incorrect.

The sump gasket was redesigned to improve sealing between block and sump and the torque settings changed slightly. The four bolts at the rear of the sump should be torqued to 28nm, while the rest of the bolts are 25nm as per RAVE. It's not a huge difference but I haven't seen anyone mention this when discussing the oil pump bolt.
LR Tech bulletin covering this is attached for reference.

It's a very good point and fortunately, these bolts are easily accessed so I'll nip them up this morning. I might also add that the sealant areas on the sump gasket recommended in the manual are to narrow in my opinion. I increased the area particularly near the rear of the sump and all 4 engines are completely oil-tight.

A final tip to stop the gasket moving when re-installing the sump (Specially if you are doing the job by yourself), is to tie it in place through the bolt holes with cotton thread. The thread will compress and eventually decompose.....works a treat!!

what type / brand of gasket sealent are you using on the locations with the veritcal face?

I have the Haynes manual (not to hand) and it says to use LR stuff but what can I get from in town that will be sufficent?
I am thinking of some loctite brand

thanks

Hay Ewe

My 04 Defender @125k bolt was finger tight only, no factory thread lock.
If your going to drop the sump you should buy a new factory OEM bolt, $10.00. & new sump gasket.
New bolt comes with dry thread lock on it But wise to add med strength loctite as well.

I did not put any sealent at all on the T/C & Rear seal joints and does not leak after 10K. I prefer not to have loose bits of oozed out sealer floating around inside my engine.

Hi Folks.

Is it just the Td5 with this loose oil pump bolt or V8 also??

Originally Posted by Hay Ewe

what type / brand of gasket sealent are you using on the locations with the veritcal face?

I have the Haynes manual (not to hand) and it says to use LR stuff but what can I get from in town that will be sufficent?
I am thinking of some loctite brand

thanks

Hay Ewe

Any gasket sealant you can get from auto shops like permatex or dow corning.