Thread: D2 front recovery points???

Originally Posted by gusthedog

Also Im no expert but think that tow bars are not really designed for shock loads. It this correct?

I'm certainly no expert either, but I questioned a couple of people in the industry who should know, and they say the tow bar, if fitted correctly, is in effect part of the chassis, and with the proper fitting [a solid bar with shackle fitted, slips into tow bar connection, using the same pin] it is safe to use, as long as safe procedures are followed.[ don't plant the foot & go like mad] They repeated the mantra " NEVER USE THE TOW BALL FOR RECOVERY"[ it cannot handle the shock loads] , they also said never use just the pin fitted through the strap. All of the experienced folk I talk to say it's best to exhaust other methods [ shovel, sand tracks, air bag,etc] before resorting to snatching, & when snatching, use only enough right foot to get the stuck vehicle on the move. So much to learn, and there is only a finite amount of Bundy Bob

Originally Posted by bob10

I'm certainly no expert either, but I questioned a couple of people in the industry who should know, and they say the tow bar, if fitted correctly, is in effect part of the chassis, and with the proper fitting [a solid bar with shackle fitted, slips into tow bar connection, using the same pin] it is safe to use, as long as safe procedures are followed.[ don't plant the foot & go like mad] They repeated the mantra " NEVER USE THE TOW BALL FOR RECOVERY"[ it cannot handle the shock loads] , they also said never use just the pin fitted through the strap. All of the experienced folk I talk to say it's best to exhaust other methods [ shovel, sand tracks, air bag,etc] before resorting to snatching, & when snatching, use only enough right foot to get the stuck vehicle on the move. So much to learn, and there is only a finite amount of Bundy Bob

See you get different answers from different blokes, seen plenty of recovery demos where they use the hayman reese pin through the loop of the snatch strap and recken that's safe. Now more connfusion.
then there is the goose neck with a tow eye welded on that you slip in to replace the tow goose nech and ball, and attach your snap strap to it via a rated shackle

Originally Posted by It'sNotWorthComplaining!

See you get different answers from different blokes, seen plenty of recovery demos where they use the hayman reese pin through the loop of the snatch strap and recken that's safe. Now more connfusion.
then there is the goose neck with a tow eye welded on that you slip in to replace the tow goose nech and ball, and attach your snap strap to it via a rated shackle

I could be wrong, but there doesn't seem to be a common standard for recovery instruction across Australia [ except in the military] Even watched a video " using kinetic straps with John Rich " supposedly a recovery guru, who attached the strap to the vehicle front tow points, connected to the vehicle by two small welds. I can understand getting conflicting advice from forum members who go on their own experience, but it sure gets confusing when the so called experts give conflicting advice. Above all else, I think safety is the common denominator, if you dont think it's safe, don't do it.Bob

Can someone post a pic of recovery points properly fitted on a d2 with ARB bar?

I did a google search and most people seem to use these two bolts to mount the aftermarket recovery points. I thought they should be mounted behind the crush cans though...



like this guy:



I cant seem to find a definitive answer anywhere on the internet...

Originally Posted by Rocky88

Can someone post a pic of recovery points properly fitted on a d2 with ARB bar?

I did a google search and most people seem to use these two bolts to mount the aftermarket recovery points. I thought they should be mounted behind the crush cans though...



like this guy:



I cant seem to find a definitive answer anywhere on the internet...

rocky88 - your summation is spot on - it should be the two vertical bolts behind/rearward of the crush cans (I had to modify my steering guard cross member to suit). The location/fixing of the red ones is an invitation to disaster.
I can supply a photo later if no-one beats me to it.

[QUOTE=gavinwibrow;1718848]rocky88 - your summation is spot on - it should be the two vertical bolts behind/rearward of the crush cans (I had to modify my steering guard cross member to suit). The location/fixing of the red ones is an invitation to disaster.
I can supply a photo later if no-one beats me to it.[/QUOTE


Crush points on an airbag compliant ballbar are designed to crush not stretch , So can you please explain the invitation to desaster as it allways good to get an experts opinion on things.

Another view of the bolts behind the crush cans.

[quote=grover69;1718905]

Originally Posted by gavinwibrow

rocky88 - your summation is spot on - it should be the two vertical bolts behind/rearward of the crush cans (I had to modify my steering guard cross member to suit). The location/fixing of the red ones is an invitation to disaster.
I can supply a photo later if no-one beats me to it.[/QUOTE


Crush points on an airbag compliant ballbar are designed to crush not stretch , So can you please explain the invitation to desaster as it allways good to get an experts opinion on things.

I'm no expert, but there is no way I would be doing any significant pulling/jerking using anything attached forward of the crush cans and risking distorting them. Logically, the airbag compliant bull bars are attached in front of the cans.

Edit - correct bullbar location typo