Hmm.
My FPR was replaced roughly 3k ago, new block and new gasket.
It's still leaking![]()
I would say that it takes about an extra hour to 1.5 hours to R&R , but to me that is offset by the lack of access otherwise.
If/when I do mine again I will remove the manifold, however I will remove the fuel cooler first, and possibly the EGR controller. I didn't want to break into the coolant last time but the access around the cooler is a PITA.
Regards Philip A
I did.
Replaced the block but put the incorrect gasket on so removed again about a week later and replaced with the correct gasket.
Top two bolts seem tight, but will probably remove along with inlet manifold so I can double check it's not dirt trapped between the gasket and the mating surface or something like that.
Strange thing is that it seems to have only started leaking again recently.
Seems to be the lower side.
Drive to my place and I will. When mine started leaking six months ago I was having sleepless nights while waiting for the new one to arrive.
I really do not know what all the fuss was about. It wasn't that hard a job.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
From memory from last month.
Remove intercooler hose, remove EGR if you have it.
Remove loom from air box, maf, temp and injectors and boost sensor .
Remove boost sensor.
Undo 4 nuts from fuel cooler (one of the more fiddling parts)
Remove glow plug leads
Undo clamp for dip stick, you don't have to remove it.
Undo 2 nuts and 10 or so bolts for manifold.
Then you have all the space in the world for the fpr and front hose.
Probably a bit of benefit to removing viscous fan as well
Sent from my GT-N7105 using AULRO mobile app
I got 11 years from the first one and 3 from the current one - which is leaking!
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