Thread: What else to do while the exhaust manifold is off?

Don't hold your breath.

Forget about the 10mm studs.

Check the links in this post and JustinC's comments about torque tubes in the posts prior to mine:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/showpost.php?p=1753009

I'm waiting for JE Engineering to get back to me with a postage charge.

OFFTRACK These quotes are from your references

"Blown exhaust manifold gaskets have always been a problem on tuned TD5 engines, but not anymore...thanks to JE! Fit the JE Stud Kit and exhaust gasket problems will be a thing of the past. Comprises ten longer studs, ten nuts, ten spacers and a new manifold gasket. Worth considering for a Stage 1 tune and near-essential for Stage 2 up."

"Personally, I don’t rate the idea of cutting the webs as Land Rover designed the part this way (although some dealers are doing this themselves!) and it can still re-occur. My fix for this was to combine the TD5Alive manifold with the J E Engineering stud kit. This decision was taken due to some discussions I had read that suggested that the strength of the Land Rover supplied studs was not the best available, although you should remember that some modifications like this could have ramifications further down the line if the Land Rover engineers deliberately put the studs in as the weak point in the design to relieve potential stresses."

Greame Coopers in sydney reccomend NOT cutting the webbing, just put in the stronger studs. Good enough for me, they know their stuff.

Originally Posted by turbopsi

If you have or havn't blanked out the EGR, the EGR blanking plate on the exhaust manifold side might be an opion for an EGT proble instead of having to drill.

You can do that but then you really only get how hot that one outlet is, not the whole lot combined. With it off it is an easy job to drill and tap

Originally Posted by alpick

OFFTRACK These quotes are from your references

"Blown exhaust manifold gaskets have always been a problem on tuned TD5 engines, but not anymore...thanks to JE! Fit the JE Stud Kit and exhaust gasket problems will be a thing of the past. Comprises ten longer studs, ten nuts, ten spacers and a new manifold gasket. Worth considering for a Stage 1 tune and near-essential for Stage 2 up."

"Personally, I don’t rate the idea of cutting the webs as Land Rover designed the part this way (although some dealers are doing this themselves!) and it can still re-occur. My fix for this was to combine the TD5Alive manifold with the J E Engineering stud kit. This decision was taken due to some discussions I had read that suggested that the strength of the Land Rover supplied studs was not the best available, although you should remember that some modifications like this could have ramifications further down the line if the Land Rover engineers deliberately put the studs in as the weak point in the design to relieve potential stresses."

Greame Coopers in sydney reccomend NOT cutting the webbing, just put in the stronger studs. Good enough for me, they know their stuff.

The stud and spacer kit act as a torque tube as described by JustinC in linked thread. The torque tube acts to absorb flex rather than trying to prevent it entirely as you do using heavier studs. The JE Engineering kit uses standard sized studs so doesn't require drilling and retapping the head. That is a big bonus if you are DIY'ing the manifold rather GCDIFYing (Graeme Cooper Doing It For You).

As the link seems to be directly to my post only I've cut and pasted Justin's comment FYI:

Originally Posted by JustinC

Torque tubes are just that, reasonably thick wall 30 to 40 mm long tubing slips over a longer stud , one end of the tube presses where the nut normally would on the manifold, the other end, the nut is torqued up against. The idea being that expansion and contraction of the manifold and stud is ' cushioned' or absorbed by the tube, relieving the stresses on the stud aleviating stretching failures and warped manifolds as a result.

!995 onward 3.9V8 Discos use this method.

JC

I reckon its worthwhile checking the oil cooler, and the state of the input nozel. Corrosion of the alloy parts can lead to coolant leaks, so while its easy to get to, pull the inlet hose off, check the alloy, and clean while there.

cheers
Nick

I cleaned manifold up inside with the die grinder.

then had it coated, much smoother inside now

Originally Posted by Benny_IIA

I cleaned manifold up inside with the die grinder.

then had it coated, much smoother inside now

How would the smoothness inside the manifold be beneficial?