In low range TC is more aggressive, also TC is as good as your break pads are... Use genuine I think they r the best when it comes to the performance of your TC and breaking capabilities...
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
Evening folks.
The other day coming home from the Lost City coming up the rock step area I noticed something a bit odd, or rather The Booger did.
When it got to the point where I'd start to lift the front a bit, traction control didn't seem to be braking the wheel.
Now, it had been working all day prior to that, to great effect.
Thing is, the light was working on the dash, ABS pump was going.
I was also losing traction at the rear at the time, and I was in high range ()
When in low range it worked fine, except in some cross-axle situations.
Does the TC have a higher tolerance for wheel spin in high range?
Other than that it's got me a bit puzzled.
Cheers
Muppet
In low range TC is more aggressive, also TC is as good as your break pads are... Use genuine I think they r the best when it comes to the performance of your TC and breaking capabilities...
Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner
as said above traction control is significantly more aggressive in low range and therefore more forgiving of wheelspin in high range. I found the original brake pads on my vehicle when new/factory new were very good, but I have had a number of paid since that of reduce the effectiveness of the traction control. I've ultimately settled on a pad which is more aggressive than the factory pad made by ECB and it provides fantastic breaking and enhances traction control. I also used the same type of pad in my discovery one which has four spot front factory calipers and the braking on it is not only incredibly progressive with great pedal feel, but exceptionally good when stomping on the brakes.
I think traction control is also only as good as the braking system's ability to cope with the heat involved in long arduous off-road work and in that regard regular changes of brake fluid and flushing of the ABS modulator using test book or similar is the way to go.
Cheers
PS it looks like your machine is a D2 pre-facelift.... Do you have sent a differential lock. I drove a variety of places for a number of years without sent a differential lock but having had it fitted, and combined with the aggressive traction control program as standard the D2 is a surefooted weapon off-road and feels incredibly positive scrabbling up and down slopes.
Hi Scott. I have the internals but not the actuator as of yet.
It had definitely been getting a workout but this was only just after we set off after a bit of a break at the lost city.
Cheers for the input
Muppet
Get a 6" shifter until you get the lever.
Also find a later facelift ('03-'04) SLABS ECU as it negates the need to do the wire cut for the TC and also it's said ha a more aggressive TC mode than the earlier version.
Just to be clear the pre face lift has the most agressive traction control program. .. I like it.
Cheers
The basis of the later ones having it is that they also have the lever fitted, also have the TC stay active even if the engine is shutdown and restarted, which the wire cut mod does if done to an earlier ECU. Not a std requirement of the earlier ones.
I was under the impression that the pre-facelift ones had slightly more aggressive TC responses due to the lack of CDL, but the facelift SLABS unit doesn't read CDL as a fault condition and as such is better adjusted for use with CDL.
I saw an offer on Eblag for a full CDL lever and SLABS unit but didn't have the funds at the time.
I'll probably do the wire cut unless I can get a good deal on a SLABS unit too.
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