Thread: Head Gasket on Td5

Originally Posted by Chuc

My question is with a metal shim gasket do I still use head gasket sealant / cement ( best brand ? ), and must I replace the head bolts that I do not have.

Also, am I likely to come accross a timing chain that required accurate recording to replace it back in the exact position, and what is the best way to do this ?

Is there antrhing else I should be replacing at the same time as compulsory preventative maintainence to reduce the likelyness of having to do a similar operation again.

No to the gasket cement on the head gasket.
yes to new head bolts.
Genuine Elring gasket. Make sure you get the correct thickness
You will need sealant to put the two halves of the head back together
cam chain wont be an issue. There are marks on everything and you lock the cam (and crank if you want to)

take your time. its not hard.

link to what to do:

removal:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...moval-how.html

head strip:

TD5 Head Strip....

Head build:

TD5 head assembly...... Pt 1

refit:

How to fit a TD5 head.... Pt1

Pay special attention to handling the fuel injectors and keep them in the same order.

Great information, thank you Psimpson7 & bsperka.

I'm a bit confused as to the "No to the gasket cement on the head gasket." but "You will need sealant to put the two halves of the head back together".
I will read the links you have provided hopefully to get clarification.

Yes I have the correct thickness head gasket (1.2 ) two hole for my engine.

New head bolts will go on order tonight.

Feeling more confident, thanks.

Hello,
Just finished putting my head on a few days ago, pretty straight forward the hardest bit was the weight of the head very heavy not something you can do on your own unless you have a engine crane. I used the cardboard trick by drawing a diagram of what you took off and pushing through the cardboard where they go, nothing lost or left over.
Ian

Originally Posted by justfishing

Hello,
Just finished putting my head on a few days ago, pretty straight forward the hardest bit was the weight of the head very heavy not something you can do on your own unless you have a engine crane. I used the cardboard trick by drawing a diagram of what you took off and pushing through the cardboard where they go, nothing lost or left over.
Ian

Heavy W T F come on its alloy try doing a cast iron head , Now They are heavy

Good trick justfishing. I have done the same with push rods on a petrol engine.

They're not a bad job to do. Take the time and read through the links posted below, it is an excellent tutorial!
Make sure you get the head tested/ overhauled and the exhaust manifold machined while you're at it.
Not sure which part of Adelaide you're at but I got my head overhauled and manifold skimmed for about $500 odd by Lonsdale Engine Worx. They do all of the machine work for TRS. Pete from PCB Landrovers gets his done in the Marion area somewhere.
Ask questions and do your research and you'll be right. In fact feel free to call me 0412777546 with any questions. I was a motor mechanic in a previous career.
Dave

Originally Posted by justfishing

Hello,
Just finished putting my head on a few days ago, pretty straight forward the hardest bit was the weight of the head very heavy not something you can do on your own unless you have a engine crane. I used the cardboard trick by drawing a diagram of what you took off and pushing through the cardboard where they go, nothing lost or left over.
Ian

The bare head I got from turner engineering was around 30kg. By the time you add in the injectors at 1.5kg each, camshaft, etc the head will be in the 40-50kg range, and needs to be eased past the bulkhead to get it out/in.

It can be done without lifting gear with an assistant apparently.

I used a block and tackle over a beam as my "helper" was a 70-something year old who doesn't like working on anything built after 1940