Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 18 of 18

Thread: D2 Wont Start - Can't Pop Hood!

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    NSW, Sydney
    Posts
    926
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by rangie ute on 38'' View Post
    passion fingers
    lol

    I had to google that one, thankfully I am at home today and not at work otherwise I might have ended up on someone's watch list...

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    $400- a bit rich for bearings and as for no bushes from a quick search plus other threads on here I've read brushes are available readily. I'd be making them pay for it all.

  3. #13
    Discotrip Guest
    As it goes, it turned out the mega 150a fuse had blown. Not sure if this was the main cause, or whether it just blew when I jump started it.

    The mechanic is having a play with it to see if he can replicate the problem. While he's at it I got him to put a new idler pulley in. He said he did take off the belt and it sounded a lot quieter (still not sure if that's a whole load of bull****), but he's having another look.

    So far we have a new main tensioner/pulley, and two new idler pulleys. If he's correct in that the noise didn't come back with the belt off, guess it's the water pump, steering pump, or crankcase pulley?

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Must be the week for it. Mine went on the way to pickig up the kids yesterday. Absolutely no cause I can find for it apart from age. Maybe 150 is a time frame for failure.

  5. #15
    Discotrip Guest
    Yeah, might be. I just had the alternator bearings replaced so was certain it was related. Pity it isn't as the mechanic will probably charge me **** loads for the call out now!

  6. #16
    Discotrip Guest
    Still can't pop the hood so doing a lot of experimenting with the spring and stoppers on the side. On the plus side, the left idler pulley was the culprit regarding the engine noise.

  7. #17
    Discotrip Guest
    Regarding the bonnet, I have tried adjusting the spaces on the side, as well as the spring. It doesn't really improve at all. I noticed when my g/f was pulling the catch that if I put pressure on it, it was a little sluggish to move. Considering the pressure from the spring I recon this is the issue.

    I tried moving the cable around from the firewall to the catch, but it didn't make any difference. As Rover mentioned, perhaps I need to just replace the spacer, but I've ordered a new cable from Allfourx4.

    What's the best way to get to the catch though, should I drill out the three rivets at the top? Is there any way to get to it without destroying the cover so I can put it back in place?

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Sydney, you know. The olympic one.
    Posts
    4,853
    Total Downloaded
    0
    From experience on RRC's if the plates are bolted together to tightly the one that needs to move to release can't slide easily enough or won't slide back to catch if you have it open and won't close. But as you just said I think the D2 is riveted.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!