Thread: Change over motor for the TD5 99

Any EU2 Td5 out of a discovery should drop straight in.
EU3 (15p onwards) is going to require some work to make fit.
Haven't looked at an oversize rebuild?

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

Any EU2 Td5 out of a discovery should drop straight in.
EU3 (15p onwards) is going to require some work to make fit.
Haven't looked at an oversize rebuild?

Hey Muppet,

From what yr did the EU3 motor come out? Im looking at a motor with super low K's on it ATM, so just weighing up the options. The guy isnt quite sure what yr, but says it no older than a 02 motor. Mine has a stuffed cylinder down to 180 PSI.

I havnt written off a total rebuild of mine although I wouldnt mind to hear peoples thoughts on this after having done it to their own vehicles, m thinking its goint to end up costing about 9K with oversized pistons etc, but it can also blow out.
The benefit I have is that my head is in very good nic with a low K cam and rocker that has been put back in, unfortunalety the mechanic put the head back on without confirming compression readings, which upsets me abit.
Would like to hear any feed back on rebuilt motors etc!

Cheers
Bronson

You will need a eu3 ECM to it must also have the correct ECM
for the gearbox auto/manual EGR and radiator air box and AAP sensor
is a bit different to
so best to get all in one go

EU3 motors came out with the 03MY, some of the very late 02MY D2s had EU3 gear, my mate's got one.
Engine prefix starts with 15p, it's an EU3.
Also has the 3 hose FPR, EGR cooler on the front of the head, etc.
Was looking into rebuilding the Td5, seems to be no issue with rebuilds so up to you.
Better the beast you know, as they say

Originally Posted by bronson

The benefit I have is that my head is in very good nic with a low K cam and rocker that has been put back in, unfortunalety the mechanic put the head back on without confirming compression readings, which upsets me abit.
Would like to hear any feed back on rebuilt motors etc!

Cheers
Bronson

An interesting statement.... I would assume that the head was removed due to suspicion of a blown head gasket, so at what point do you think it would have been a good idea to do a compression test?

A blown head gasket can result in compression leaking from cylinders into other cylinders, water jackets or oil galleries, so will often show low compression.

A motor with no head fitted comes up with very low compression, for some strange reason.

You want it to be done before the head is refitted which is now where we're up to... Please explain?

Originally Posted by EvilGTV

An interesting statement.... I would assume that the head was removed due to suspicion of a blown head gasket, so at what point do you think it would have been a good idea to do a compression test?

A blown head gasket can result in compression leaking from cylinders into other cylinders, water jackets or oil galleries, so will often show low compression.

A motor with no head fitted comes up with very low compression, for some strange reason.

You want it to be done before the head is refitted which is now where we're up to... Please explain?

Mate not sure if your trying to be smart but making rubbish statements like this just takes up space on this site.
Gee i would have thought that doing a compression test is best done with the head off !
Might have just been a coincidence that the compression test is still the same after refitting the head correctly with a new gasket. Sorry but its not a head gasket

bronson

Originally Posted by bronson

unfortunalety the mechanic put the head back on without confirming compression readings

Originally Posted by bronson

Might have just been a coincidence that the compression test is still the same after refitting the head correctly with a new gasket. Sorry but its not a head gasket

So, you're saying a compression test WAS done before the head was removed, and you're upset because another compression test wasn't done somewhere between there and the head being put back on?

Please share with us what you feel the mechanic should have done differently here, so that we can all potentially save ourselves some money, time and heartache should we find ourselves in the same situation.

I'd stick with another earlier 10p prefix (EU2) motor for a replacement unless you have a good grasp of the electrics/schematics and are handy with a soldering iron etc.
Changing the 10P(EU2) to 16P(EU3) motor requires some different plumbing for the EGR cooler if fitted otherwise its a direct bolt up motor.
The EU3 motor will run on the earlier ECU etc, but you would want to change to an EU3 map and AAP sensor type to get the best out of it.
This requires a little more than an average understanding of electrics.
though would be worthwhile if you have this.
If you have the RAVE CD and schematics to peruse you will know pretty quick if its within your scope.


FYI compression tests need to have the head fitted up with a good gasket to be conducted, so unfortunately there is no way of knowing what the result of changing the crook gasket would be until the new one was fitted and the head torqued down. (unless there were physical signs of wear/damage to the piston and bore in situ)