Thread: Madman 2 high EGT alarm setting?

703 degrees centigrade is the temperature where the vanes on the turbo start to pit from excess temperature. The turbo can take short bursts in excess of this temperature. Sustained temperatures above 703 will cause

permanent damage and/or premature failure of the turbo.

My TM2 is set accordingly(703).

Cheers,

Jason

I've learned about these EGT gauges on this site not long ago and so i have no experience, what i can tell is that after i fitted one it gave me creeps cos i've got around 900 not once uphill with the boat attached... but before i knew that i wasnt even cautious by not knowing about that and floored it withouit fear and everything is OK so far, which doesnt mean it won't fai soon

i've made some research and found out that the turbo is supposed to bear up to 1000*C(1832F) which IMO with a stage 2 remap uphill is not hard to reach, not for me anyway ... but that's all i know and dont want to contradict anybody, here's from RAVE:

Originally Posted by ENGINE MANAGEMENT SYSTEM - TD5; DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION 18-1-33

The turbocharger is exposed to extremely high operating temperatures (up to 1,000 °C (1832 °F)) because of the hot
exhaust gases and the high speed revolution of the turbine (up to 150,000 rev/min). In order to resist wear of the
turbine bearings a flow of lubrication oil is supplied from the engine lubrication system to keep the bearings cool. Oil
is supplied from a tapping at the front of the full-flow filter adaptor housing via a metal pipe with banjo connections.......

700 degrees.
Melting point of alluminium is 660.
Ally head, pistons, the extra 40 degrees won't kill it for short periods but don't sustain it.
Set for 700. Buy the time the gauge registers the temp, you notice and back off you'll already be a bit hot under the collar.
700 is a good point for both usability of the remap and protection of the engine.

After my research on the web and reading many articles my conclusion is that the Td5 head and parts are quite resistant cos it seems it's not pure alluminium but a "CAST ALUMINUM ALLOY FOR HIGH TEMPERATURE APPLICATIONS" = AL3X type AL-Si alloy + enhancers ... which doesnt mean that 700 as warning is not good what i say is that if 700 would be the max my engine/turbo would have failed apart long time ago at what EGT readings i've got and keep getting on it

Settings for the MadMan EMS alarms

Exhaust gas temperature:
Based on http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/publicat...ureMonitor.pdf
Maximum safe point - 720*C.
Normal range - 250*C - 680*C.

The one point that no one has raised is the location of the EGT probe - pre-turbo or post turbo will effect what settings you should use - i.e. the further down the exhaust system you fit the probe the lower your maximum temperature should be as it's had more time to cool off... Hopefully you have fitted it into the exhaust manifold though.

Originally Posted by sierrafery

After my research on the web and reading many articles my conclusion is that the Td5 head and parts are quite resistant cos it seems it's not pure alluminium but a "CAST ALUMINUM ALLOY FOR HIGH TEMPERATURE APPLICATIONS" = AL3X type AL-Si alloy + enhancers ... which doesnt mean that 700 as warning is not good what i say is that if 700 would be the max my engine/turbo would have failed apart long time ago at what EGT readings i've got and keep getting on it

Yes, but we've all come understand you don't have any idea...

EGTs a la Blknight.aus. Who seems to know what he's doing...

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

rough rules for EGT if you have ally pistons (yes you do) and a pre turbo EGT sensor

in driver speak.

600 is 0k
650 is when you want to be thinking "maybe I should be gearing down"
700 is when you should be thinking "I should have geared down"
750 is when you should be thinking "why havent I geared down?"
800 is when your mechanic is going to be unfriendly at you and use words like, butcher, inept and "why'd you bother to install a pyro if you weren't going to pay attention to it?" your repair bill will probably get spiked just to teach you a lesson about your lack of vehicle sympathy.

in mechanic speak

600 is survivable, your not doing any undue damage or increasing your wear but you are technically pushing the engine so your fuel economy is out the window in favour of more torque. your engine can do this forever but the fuel tank wont like you.

650 is still survivable but you are not winning any friends in the wear and tear department, if you have preexisting faults in pistons, heads, valve seats or your cooling system pushing to here will start to expose them. in theory the engine can do this forever but your wallet will let you know about it by way of the bowser

700 is not good, very short term exposures to these temps are survivable BUT, the combustion temperature at the point of maximum combustion chamber pressure is above what aluminium can deal with long term, once all the allys heated up its going to start going west unless your engines ability to shed heat through the pistons underside oil cooling is good (which it is in a td5). the oil that is being splashed up onto the underside of the pistons will be breaking down. you can maintain this for maybe a minute

750 is very not good everything that was happening at 700 will be happening here but faster. combustion pressure and temps can be high enough to start eroding the piston lands and skirts where the fire burns down past the gaps in the rings. The heat being applied to the top of the piston is now getting towards the limit of conductivity of the metal (think of holding an ally can in your hand, you can melt the bottom off with an oxy torch without the top of the can getting hot enough to burn your hand) you are turning your oil into carbon based grinding paste on the underside of the pistons. you can do this for maybe 10 seconds and thats assuming your engines perfect, dont forget that in getting to this temp youve had to spend time at 700+ so you have less time at this temp if its been a long slow increase as opposed to a sudden increase. If its a sudden increase you need to ask why.

800 ahh yes sir, youve turned your pistons all insideoutsidemelty its time to rebuild.


for a post turbo EGT sensor drop all those numbers by about 100 degrees or more depending on how far post turbo you gauge is and how quick its reaction is.

Ok, I'll bite, firstly, I have no knowledge about egt except what I have learnt here....

If RAVE States as above that temps of 1000 are expected blah blah,......

Why are you all arguing about 700?....that's a significant difference.

Just as a point, the melting point of aluminium might be 660 degrees, but no engine components are made of pure aluminium otherwise they wouldn't last long...so the head is in no danger of melting at a constant egt of 690degrees...logical?

So where does the magical number of 700 come from?, where is the actual data from landrover? Or garret?

I'm asking this respectfully because I've got all the goodies, big intercooler Bruce Davis ecu boost box boost at 22psi etc etc and flat out I can hit 850 easy ....according to rave it's well below the 1000, but not good according to all the gospel speak...
Not taking the **** here fellas, really interested in seeing the proof so I can make informed decisions on this issue.

Cheers all
Kev