Thread: Noisy wipers/ Wet feet fix

One thing I forgot previously was the usual disclaimer. All work documented is carried out by a Muppet with no formal automotive training and a deranged personality. Any and all documented work is purely my experience, and I will not be held responsible for you breaking your own **** by trying to copy me. Please don't sue me. I've got no money anyway.

Now


Okay, here's my next lot of progress.

Started on removing the blower unit in the passenger footwell, this was as far as I got as the next step is relocating the BCU which I'm undecided about.
I've got the gear here to make up my rubber shield for the heater intake, so I'll make that up and try to check/re-seal the gasket from outside the car, if not I'll have a go at fully removing the blower unit.

So, first step is to remove the battery negative cabling. No photos because if you can't do that, you shouldn't have a Land Rover.

Next, remove the cardboard kick panel.



Remove the glovebox



I found that I only need to remove one of these, could probably get away with none and just carefully wiggle it out...



Turn to appropriate section in RAVE





Next, disconnect these two plugs.



Remove the screws holding these connectors in place.



And secure it to one side. I used the hook on the trans tunnel trim



Now, remove these two top bolts holding the blower unit in place. There are also two down the bottom, including one I missed off to the far side, near the heater duct.



At this point, there's noting actually holding the unit in place. A gentle tug towards the passenger side will disconnect the ducting from the blower to the rest of the ducting behind the dash. At this point I realised that there's no way I could remove the entire unit without moving the BCU.
I was running out of light so I've decided to ponder it for the night. I may just attempt to attack it from the firewall side.

In a sec I'll post up some pics of what I intend to do from the other side.
Cheers
Muppet

Following this keenly as I too have a wet passenger floor problem. Mine drowns the BCM and has twice caused no cranking and flashing odometer.

This may help
Behind and below the glovebox there are 3 ECU modules on a bracket.
The BCU is the middle of the three ECU's, (black plastic housing).
It is held in by one securing bolt and nut 8mm heads which passes through the unit horizontally.
Remove this bolt and BCU then slides out towards you.
BCU has 4 multi plugs (grey & yellow) along the base & one in the left side of it at the top (brown). press release clips and remove plugs brown plug can be difficult to remove it comes out towards the pillar it may be easier to release it last to get good access to it.

Next remove 5 multiplugs from SLABS ECU.
Remove multiplug from ACE ECU.
there is a yellow SRS wire that is attached to the frame unplug from the frame and disconnect the SRS wire from its upper connecter to prevent damage.
Remove the two connectors for glove box switch to give more room to get ECU's and frame out.
ECU mounting bracket is held to bulkhead by to 13mm head nuts (they can be accessed after BCU is removed) slacken upper 13mm nut till thread is half way through nut,
Remove lower 13mm nut fully,
Remove ECU's and bracket assembly carefully not to damage wires with sharp edges of the frame.

Cheers for that!

Even without the SLABs or BCU in place, I was still struggling to remove the blower unit so I'll take a punt on it not being the gasket (shouldn't be), and I've installed my rubber shield.
Pics are loading as we speak.

Cute gloves Princess

Is that because of your upcoming career as a Hand Model

Well they sure wouldn't be using my face
Old habit from making models and dealing with glue on my fingers.
Anyway, have been slack with photos.

I got stuck into removing the computers and the the brackets, although even with that I was still scratching my head about how to get the entire blower unit out so I decided bugger it. As an alternative, simply remove the blower unit which will allow you to see up to the vent and check for further water leaks.

However, here's some pics of removing the SLABs/BCU and brackets, as per Scots helpful advice.

These photos show the order of the plugs along the bottom of the SLABs and BCU, just as a reminder. I don't think the plugs would fit any other way but always good to have a reference.
Half the plugs practically fell out they were so easy, the others....well...not so. I found a combination of wiggling and gentle prying with a screw driver helped, but be careful about it.
As stated, 8mm nut/bolt through the BCU. Undo it and remove and the BCU slides right out. It's easier to undo the brown plug on the side when you've got it mostly removed from the bracket.





BCU removed



Next it's the two 13mm nuts that hold the bracket in place. The top one secures a cut out rather than a hole in the bracket so as Scott says you can leave it just on the end. I removed the bracket and SLABs unit still connected.



Leaves quite a cavity!



But still I couldn't manage to get it out so I put it back together. Only thing left over was this and it starts and drives just fine so I'll take my chances



So, on to important things.

This here is the heater fresh air intake.



This is the source of my efforts to remove the blower to get to the gasket. However, I made do by checking the fit of the gasket from the bulkhead side, and it seemed in good nick. The bolts needed a tighten up though.
Del theorised that if the scuttle panels doesn't seal correctly, water runs down over the lip on top of the intake and down into the blower unit.
As such, cut a strip of rubber as a suitable shield so that any drips are deflected. Simply glue the shield to the top lip of the inlet and refit the scuttle panel and wipers

Also, check the silicone sealing in the corners of the bulkhead, as many guys on the pommie forum found there were large holes, so definitely worth a check up.

Then go for a burn with the bonnet off!
Feels really strange

Originally Posted by Disco Muppet

This here is the heater fresh air intake.

LR had a part (at least for the D1) that had a larger lip/shroud to prevent the issue... I Replaced mine on my old D1 for that reason, never had another issue.

Cheers mate.

I'll see what I can wrangle with the rubber lip. Before I go putting it all back together, I'll refit the scuttle panel and give it the good news with a hose while checking for leaks.

At the end of the day, it's a Land Rover after all