Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Checked the camshaft timing on my 2002 EU3 TD5 auto.
***** of a job as the gold links were not at No1 TDC. However there is a groove there.

TIPS Take off the inspection port under the bellhousing and you can see when the channel is coming around as opposed to the holes. You can turn the last little bit to put in the timing pin with a big screwdriver into the ring gear. Note to turn clockwise as if you were at the front of the engine.
My camshaft timing was perfect which was a little disappointing after all that work.LOL

I thought maybe I could pick up a little power and decrease EGTs if it was retarded.

Yesterday I fired up the Nanocom for the first time for about a year. No faults.
In the 4 years since I have owned the D2 I have only had 1fault and that was the RH rear ABS sensor connector which I cleaned and it never returned. I have never had an engine fault.

Inlet air temp cruising at 70Kmh was 31C on a 25C day. So the Serck intercooler is working well.

I get a bit of shunt on cold mornings when locked up in 3 after overriding which I guess may be from too cold air into the motor. That's the only bad side effect. Have no noticed no real increase in engine temp from the extra restriction to the radiator.

Cylinder balances were interesting at 70% zero 25% 1 and 5% 2. This is much better than before I did the washers , when they were around 2-3 most of the time.

My cheapo temp gauge which is dry onto the bolt of the radiator hose housing is reading mainly within 1C of the Nanocom reading of the temperature sensor which is pretty good. I have covered it with a big blob of Blutac to insulate it from the air.
Regards Philip A
BTW I checked my Oil separator today. It was one I bought from Ebay that is small enough to fit behind the air filter on my D2. It looks very similar (identical) to the one sold as Flashlube. Anyway I drained about a tablespoon full of the dirtiest black **** out of it . I checked the gauze filter and it was clear and the outlet to the inlet manifold was dry. So it looks successful.

I went to town today and my alternator is playing Silly Buggers( the battery light came on) . It drops down to 11.4-11.7v But when I rev the engine it comes good 13.5-13.9v.
I am thinking that the brushes are worn down and need replacing.
Can I buy the brushes to replace the old ones or is it a case of having to renew the entire alternator?

Incorrect post assumed TD5 and poster has v8.

Originally Posted by trout1105

Can I buy the brushes to replace the old ones or is it a case of having to renew the entire alternator?

I'm 99.9% sure the V8 runs the same regulator/brush box as my W124 Merc. I bought some spares from Latvia as they were 1/2 the price of Australian sourced ones. My local auto sparkie told me they weren't replaceable but I soon proved him wrong.

Alternator brushes, D2 V8

BOSCH Alternator Carbon Brush SET 1127014028 | eBay

A minor thing but,
the squirty thing that puts water on the windscreen had the pointy thing under the bonnet that the pipe thing goes on snapped off.

So, today in the mail a new squirty thing arrived & I fitted it after work.

I now have 2 working squirty things so I can use the back & forth rubbery things to clean the glass doovey.

I really hate all the Land Rover technical terms we have to use!

Jonesfam

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Hmm, It's not that I don't trust Auto transmission shops but If I bought along my $95 for 4 litres Transmax Z how could I be sure that they used same to flush the transmission ? Ditto Lifeguard 6. Consider the recent post about Auto problems with a D3.

I had the situation a couple of years ago where I put my car in for a reseal of the LT230, the place claimed the auto fluid was low and topped with Dex3 thus diluting my hard won high percentage of Transmax Z. One would think they could tell the difference between red and green. And you wouldn't know until something went wrong or next time you checked the level.

I would rather DIY.
Regards Philip A

The reason you use the machine is a guaranteed exchange of fluid - you would be bringing more than 4 litres for a proper full flush....

The machine is then hooked to the source fluid, pumps it in and the displaced fluid goes into a receiver tank. You could watch this being connected...

Once it’s running like clean new fluid you stop the machine, disconnect the machine, reconnect the lines and off you go...

With a completely clean load of ATF on board.


I’m buying one of these machines for my workshop - they’re only $400 USD + shipping.

Originally Posted by bee utey

I'm 99.9% sure the V8 runs the same regulator/brush box as my W124 Merc. I bought some spares from Latvia as they were 1/2 the price of Australian sourced ones. My local auto sparkie told me they weren't replaceable but I soon proved him wrong.

Alternator brushes, D2 V8

BOSCH Alternator Carbon Brush SET 1127014028 | eBay

Thanks for the "Heads Up" on the brushes, I have ordered a couple of sets in case I stuff one up and at less than $10 a set why wouldn't I.
I haven't got any trips planned for a couple of months so I have plenty of time to fix the alternator problem with my hands instead of using my wallet

Another question
Is it possible to change out the regulator with the alternator still in place?