To me it sounds like the prop shaft. I put a second hand one in Jan 2017. Time to save up for a Tom Woods. [bigsad]
I'll be a 2 wheel land rover until I can get the cash. I mioght try "Go Fund Me" [biggrin]
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To me it sounds like the prop shaft. I put a second hand one in Jan 2017. Time to save up for a Tom Woods. [bigsad]
I'll be a 2 wheel land rover until I can get the cash. I mioght try "Go Fund Me" [biggrin]
Today I drove the brothers TD5 to work, about 20k's of freeway driving.
Finally got to experience the vibes he mentioned, that I couldn't feel on previous drives.
This one comes on strong once the torque converter has locked up, but is also there when TC isn't locked either.
His vibes feel like it's coming from the passengers side front wheel.
Vibes can be made to linger, or disappear depending on how much throttle is used.
On the way home tonight, I then remembered his left front CV had a half decent leaky look to it. Not sure if it's CV itself, or maybe a leaky axle seal(haven't looked into it much at all).
So I'm reckoning brothers vibes is 99% likely due to a failing CV, and less likely to be a failing front prop shaft.
Question for the experienced D2 folks:
I have a D2 I'm wrecking('99) and brothers D2 is an '03.
On a few occasions I've seen a reference to the front propshaft being dependent on VIN number .. that there may be a difference in length depending on model(or something like that).
But checking out Roverlords ebay listing, they sell the one front propshaft for '99-04 model range ... ie. the one shaft fits all, and hence not VIN dependent.
Can anyone clear up my confused state of mind on the front shaft?
Front shafts are the same length, just the sliding joint on them was updated to a bearing slider, originally for a problem the auto's had with........vibration[wink11] . your brother's could be u/j's , amongst other things, check to see if there's any shiny or rusty bits on the inner cups near the seal
Put 40L of petrol in it.
It lengthened my evening somewhat. :wallbash:
[thumbsupbig]Quote:
Originally Posted by discorevy
OK, so they're interchangeable, but possibly inadvisable due to potential vibration problems with auto models. (his is auto/TD5). My spare is auto/V8
The spare is used, but at some point in it's life it's been rebuilt, with rebalancing too. Large washer balancing weight welded on it. unis and splines all tight.
Last time I checked his uni joints was wayyy back in Nov(melb cup day) pre trip check, only a few hours before the fateful injector seal issue he had recently.
that's when he first complained of a "vibe that comes and goes" .. but since Nov I've driven the car a few times and never felt the vibe.
Last night was the first time.
I put new brake discs/pads on the rear, and changed the fuel filter. Next few days should see front discs/pads, brake fluid flush, new oils throughout, and then start on the engine. Injector loom, fan belt, fpr swap, coolant flush, and check oil pump bolt (though, at 310K, it should have been done, or come loose by now! Still going to check, though.) Then hook up the SLS lift/drop controller, fit UHF and sort out proper temp and EGT gauges. Oh, and fit the CDL lever/linkage.
Should keep me busy for a day or three!
Then only needs a rwc, and we can start finding out how reliable (or not) it is! [bighmmm]
I’m keen to hear how the SLS lift/drop controller goes. Keep us posted? Thinking of buying 1 alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by donh54
Today I started to change out the complete hub-bearing/CV/axle assembly on brothers with one from the wreck.Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
Got as far as the brake caliper removed and found that the top ball joint has about 5mm of slack in it!
What's surprising in this discovery(pun intended) .. is that there is no shake/shimmy at all in the steering.
Just a very light massage when hitting severe bumps in road as you'd get with any live front axled vehicle .. but nothing to suggest so much play in a balljoint!
So my diagnosis of a possible worn CV was pretty much incorrect, but at least in the correct area!
I'm not going to lose blood and bone over brothers D2 any more(well for this week at least!) .. so has been booked with the mechanic.
So back to this issue again:
check your balljoints too. Other than a bit of time to remove wheel, costs zero and is quick/easy check to eliminate it from the equation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnut1100
Got my watts linkage/transverse link
bushes 1 day after ordering from Roverlord (cheers Mario & Heather). So I know what I'll be doing this weekend [emoji6]
Drove mine around town marvelling at how good the braking is after the install of new standard front disks and pads. It stops better than our new Subaru's at work.
For you guys with slotted and drilled rotors - is there maybe something wrong with your braking systems? Why you would need better braking than a good working standard set up is beyond me. Nothing else I drive stops this good. Enlighten me about the error of my braking ways.