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						SupporterThe only info I can locate on type(s) of grease in RAVE(for D2) is this:
In the maintenance section(10-19) where it says to clean grease nipple and apply recommended grease to the unit and shaft, it points back to the above quote in the lubricant section.General Greasing
Use Multipurpose Lithium Base Grease N.L.G.I.
consistency No. 2.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
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						SupporterAh!
Actually no.
Just the feeling of play in there.
Zero play on my D2 spare parts.
The play feels like it's about 5mm all up(ie. 2.5mm up and 2.5mm down).
The play isn't 'diagonal' on the flange/shaft assembly. (apologies, don't know how to describe it properly).
That is, the play is both the shaft and flange moving in unison(as viewed in the movement of the large nut with the flange).
We did tighten the large nut up too.
Brother actually did that, so I don't know if the nut had any movement in it due to looseness. He wasn't paying attention as he tightened it up.
Set torque wrench (sorry! .. tension wrench) up to 170Nm(from memory), felt tight .. nipped it up to 180 just to be 101% sure.
What we did yesterday is just temporary, and his D2 is not a daily driver.
The next plan is to sort the seal(needed), so it just makes sense to do flange(new) and renew bearing anyhow.
Do it once, and (hopefully)forget about it for the next 10 years.
The vibration we're chasing is still there, but the temporary front prop shaft and flange nut tightening has only changed it. A bit less than before and easier to control/eliminate(with the throttle).
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Finished repairing all the door locks and finally have central locking. Cost a grand total of 20.00 for the motors and 45.00 for a second hand one to use for parts . Bargain.
If I am ever on life support
unplug me.....
Then plug me back in see if that works !!!!!
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						 Got my D2a's auto reconditioned and now it drives really sluggish. What's going on?
 Got my D2a's auto reconditioned and now it drives really sluggish. What's going on?
		So I have a 2004 Discovery 2a with the automatic ZF 4HP22EH transmission. When I bought it, the transmission had been replaced by the previous owner.
A year and 30000km since my purchase, the transmission died after a few days of very delayed engaging of "Drive" on start up, very harsh clunking when changing from 1st to 2nd and back (hard enough that it felt like I was getting rear-ended).
Anyways, the transmission died and three weeks since handing it into the auto workshop, I got it back yesterday and it's reaaaaaally sluggish.
Going up a hill at 60km/h, it struggled to keep the pace and dropped down to 35km/h while the revs hit 3000.
So what I wanna know is what the hell is going on? It was driving fine before the transmission died so what could've changed with the engine in three weeks of not being driven?
Is there anyone who has any idea as to what could be going on?
Did you check if the auto workshop actually knows ZF gearboxes? There are very few places I would trust with a ZF rebuild.
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You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you.
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1999 Disco TD5 ("Bluey")
1996 Disco 300 TDi ("Slo-Mo")
1995 P38A 4.6 HSE ("The Limo")
1966 No 5 Trailer (ARN 173 075) soon to be camper
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Attempted to cover up years of stone chips and roo bits damage.
Finally got around to rebuilding starter motor solenoid in a Caravan Park in St George before we head desert-wards.
Had the kit in my spares box since we left Perth.
Was only not starting maybe once every twenty starts, but worth doing on grass rather than baked desert sand.
Top nut came off easily with 1/2 inch socket (15 mm) and 6 inch extension. The horror stories of others did not eventuate for me.
A little bit of oil came out when I released the bottom bolt which was a bit disconcerting, but seemed okay once it was off.
Rebuild was easy.
Geometry of getting the thing back in between diff, chassis rails and ATF lines was the hardest part.
Starts first time every time nowgood for another 260 000 kms.
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