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Battery disconnected,Quote:
Originally Posted by admiralranga
Radiator shroud out can be handy (not necessary),
Belt off,
Pump drain off,
Loosen mounting bolts
Tilt alternator and undo main power cable and small plug,
Forward and out,
Drop new one in via same path,
Reverse all comments above...
1 hr tops. Done it one several now.
AFAIR I also removed the battery box and the belt tensioner bracket.
I remember I had to wrestle with the vacuum pump drain pipe to get it back on.
Regards PhilipA
I replaced the alternator with the fan in place - don't ask....Quote:
Originally Posted by onebob
Changing a Td5 alternator without removing the fan.
and Changing a Td5 D2 alternator with the fan in place - Mark's Stuff
It really isn't that hard and now that I have done it a few times it only takes about an hour and a half or so even with the fan in place..
It was split alright...[bigsad]Quote:
Originally Posted by RANDLOVER
I managed to get another one locally and spent a therapeutic few hours replacing it. It wasn't too bad really - just time consuming working out how to get it out considering the bull bar. All done now...[bigsmile1]
I’ve had my D2 parked up for a month whilst in my spare time I work through a list of both needed and desirable tasks on the Td5. Because access is so good with the fan, radiator and inter cooler removed I decided to change the fan front cover idler bearing which had been last changed a little over 6 years ago. I decided to do this despite the the fact that it still seemed perfectly okay. As it turned out it was a good move because the bearing was haemorrhaging grease and was on the way to certain failure.
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Thanks for the advice RE the alternator. Spent some time using a tap to extend the threads on some second hand wheel nuts so they'd fit on the spare. Worked pretty well, just requires a little care to not tap them too far else the tap will push through the cap.
If you have an old wheel nut even from a RRC, you can take the washer off and fit it to a D2 wheel nut with a bit of effort and it does the same as extending the thread.Quote:
Spent some time using a tap to extend the threads on some second hand wheel nuts so they'd fit on the spare. Worked pretty well, just requires a little care to not tap them too far else the tap will push through the cap.
Regards PhilipA
I picked up my D2a from the Landrover hospital yesterday.
I took her onto the beach and then over some rocky limestone tracks to try out the transmission and the new TC cable, Perfect[thumbsupbig][bigrolf]
Now all I have to do is to plug up the bloody hole in the underbody that the front driveshaft made when it failed.
Ooohhh Goody - I've just found something else wrong with the D2. The rear windows don't work. Both of them. Aha ! I thought - blown fuse. Wring dammit and the relay also works hen it's out of the fuse box. When the rear windows buttons (in the centre console) are pressed there is no clicking
I'm really, REALLY hoping that when the centre console was put back together after the gearbox job I messed up plugging something in.
On to a happier note. The other day we went over to Rosebud (from Moe) and back which was about 300km or a bit more. Yesterday we went over to St. Albans and back. Again, about 300km or so.
Combined trips gave a fuel consumption of 9.44 l/100km over a bit less than 700km of mostly freeway but a fair bit of congested freeway and suburban driving. Pretty damn good in my view. I did try and keep revs below 2700 though and the gearbox behaved perfectly.
I would suggest first point to check is the rear isolation switch not connected or maybe not connected properly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Markf