Oh yes. Definitely. That will by first port of call. Because I have the fake veneer in an auto it’s gonna be pain but then so was the gearbox....😊😊😊Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
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Oh yes. Definitely. That will by first port of call. Because I have the fake veneer in an auto it’s gonna be pain but then so was the gearbox....😊😊😊Quote:
Originally Posted by AK83
This has been a bit of a battle, getting access. However I pushed the driver's seat as far forward as possible. The I got onto the back seat from the passenger side. It was very easy to reach in and unclip the plug and pull the plug apart. A quick spray with contact cleaner and put back together. Hopefully the annoying, intermittent SRS light will be gone.
Found one! had to go and check for an green oval badge on the front but a drop of oil was found on the ground. Just had my recently departed 300 TDi's (think I made a mistake getting rid of Charles but no left knee and a manual...) rear crank seal done a couple of weeks ago but today as I start on the upgrades of the D2, there was weeping around the sump plug, the tragedy of it all!
Also had taken the cover off the back door to do the rear latch which it turns out is not there and the speakers. Surprised at the weight of the standard subs but a pair of lighter alpines now sit soldered in. Am putting a table on before reassembling.
The funny solution the previous owner did for opening the rear door was hole just under the plunger and a 'philips head' key inserted and pushed up against it. Will be a back up for when the door latch stops working again I suppose! Drivers doors next.
Had the windscreen done as well this week, it turns out the guy did it from the inside, what little rain we had hasn't shown a leak but the cowling is now totally cactus and the headlining suffered a bit, have to take this off anyway to try and resurrect the sunroofs which have been silicon-ed to fix past leaks. Thinking black marine carpet will be the go, a lot of cut outs with the rear air con etc. but do like the look.
it does allow for some freedom in wiring in some accessories such as 10" always on rear view camera which I want to mount inside the window within the wipers swipe.
Heading out of town yesterday for work the car was going well until we came to the first set of hills, no power and getting slower. The land cruiser I had passed was now on my tail, I should have got him to push me up the hill. When I could pull over safely I discovered the turbo hose had blown off by the second clamp, In the pouring rain I managed to get it back on. A loose clamp perhaps? Any other reason it would it might come off? Should I be concerned about the amount of oil around the shock tower,chassis rail that appears to have come from the turbo? I did have to drive a wee way before I could pull over. Now that the sun is shining today I'm going to clean up the oil and replace both clamps.
cheers, jamesNZ
Attachment 166501
if you sand to roughen up the inside of the silicone where it sits the pipe and sand the outside where the clamp sits will secure them better.
Why does that sort of hing always happen in the pouring rain ? Or worse - the time it happened to me it was a howling gale and belting down hail.Quote:
Originally Posted by James NZ
As Roverlord says. Roughen up the inside of the silicon and the outside of the flange. Make sure they are both squeaky clean and oil free and seat the clamps properly and get them nice and snug but not overtight.
I had issues too with my hoses poping off at high psiiQuote:
Originally Posted by Markf
LOL!Quote:
Originally Posted by Markf
My worst fail: a millions moons ago, I was working my dad's business. Had a Mazda van to do deliveries. on the way back from Ballarat(100 k from Melb) coming down a long hill, motor dies.
No worries, it was at a time when mobile phones were pretty much just out as an affordable thing.
Whip the phone out .. battery dead(they had about a 1hr battery life!).
Middle of nowhere, pelting rain horizontally, I trodded back up the road to catch up with a resting truckie. he let me use his in truck phone, called RACV, explained the situation .. and they reckon maybe 1 hr to get there. .. at 1AM, I wouldn't have expected any quicker.
Trodded back down to the van(maybe 1-2klm) same horizontal rain. RACV guy gets there, reckons most likely the coil(which it was), so we towed it to the depot, and out of the rain(not far, maybe 5klm).
Totally sodden, back in the van, now going, and got home feeling like Marineboy.
Probably my worst "can only happen in the rain" situation.
I have done about 400k's in the D2a since the exploding front prop shaft event put her off the road for repairs and have noticed that there is an improvement in the fuel economy and the engine is revving less to achieve 100kph than it did before the breakdown[bigrolf]
Prior to the breakdown I would be doing 2400rpm at 100kph and now with the replacement gearbox she only revs at 2250rpm at 100kph So it looks like I was up for a new tranny anyway because the old one must have been slipping a bit.
The original gearbox did do a lot of heavy towing in 35C+ temps pulling a 2T boat around the country for over 40,000k's during my ownership alone so I did get a pretty good run out of a 16 year old gearbox so I am not complaining.
It is very nice to have her back on the road again and she will be back to her usual duties of dragging the boat along the beach/tracks when the demersal fishing ban here in the West ends on Dec 16.
Most likely torque converter. Brothers did exactly this too. then it started the process of self implosion, in that it began to vibrate(or cause a vibration).Quote:
Originally Posted by trout1105
So it wasn't locking up properly, then gradually disintegrating .. didn't cause the cardan joint/UJ/prop issue that you suffered tho, we changed them maybe 6 months prior to the TC issue.
Maybe one problem begets another in some way down there?
