Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Well that was a day! Out with the dash to fit the Alpine X801D-U, it shares the same staggered single DIN as the Hi Line fitted, just not quite and was too wide to fit in requiring some butchering.

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Audio Visual World - Alpine X801D-U 8_ Advanced Navi System DAB Bluetooth MirrorLink.pdf

Wont say that the job is perfect or even 70% if I am honest but have a whole lot of shavings left over to mix with some putty to smooth out the end installation. That said I am pretty happy with how it sits on the dash and is flush enough not to look out of place.

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Face on

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Sort of from the drivers perspective -now to wire it in, new aerial to roof (AM/FM Dab amplified) and two cameras to the front and one to rear


Makes you realize how grey the interior black is by the way

Hey RRT, how did you get those air louvre thingies off? Do they just pry out ?

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I found the cup to be very easy to remove and replace. Just get a big socket AFAIR 51MM and cut a bolt to the right length and screw in/out. you may need a couple of washers half way through.
I always put some anti seize on the peg. .....

Ah! What I'm calling "the cup" is the internal bearing in the tailshaft itself.
The "cup" you describe there is the locating(or centralising) pin, which is driven into the bearing cup.

Yeah, with the rigt tools the pin comes out easy with a bolt.
The bearing is the PITA.

Originally Posted by AK83

Ah! What I'm calling "the cup" is the internal bearing in the tailshaft itself.
The "cup" you describe there is the locating(or centralising) pin, which is driven into the bearing cup.

Yeah, with the rigt tools the pin comes out easy with a bolt.
The bearing is the PITA.

I thought it was a matter of removing three bolts, remove the prop shaft, remove three bolts, remove the doughnut. Have I got this wrong?

Originally Posted by biggin

Hey RRT, how did you get those air louvre thingies off? Do they just pry out ?

A hell of a lot easier than the switches and clock! The tabs for those were so tight thought the credit cards were going to break.

The air vents have a small locating pin on the outer side and the rotating ring on the other

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inside

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outside

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outer locating attachment point
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middle attachment point


there is a clip on the rotating ring (I think because I lost both) but it was simply putting a card down the inside and pulling it out

Thanks RRT, I appreciate all the trouble you went to with your response.
Looks like a simple job now I can see what’s going on.

Just sat down to start the pulling the ISO harness apart to solder onto to the low level output of the Alpine for the HK amp connectors and the thought crossed my two neurons, wonder if some one has made a harness to relieve the tedium and uncertainty of my soldering skills, well in just 20 mins (sic) found the solution

aerpro-app7220-iso-speaker-connector-to-rca-adapter-harness-suit-line-level-adapter-to-factory-a.jpg

Better than that the item was only $16.50 and free postage!

Aerpro APP7220 | Harness for Aftermarket Headunit Line Level Adapter | Frankies Auto Electrics

Does mean the audio installation is going to wait and have an awful hole in the console until delivery but would rather have great connections than mine (think will also put some shrink protectors over them to be sure to be sure)

Originally Posted by Bohica

I thought it was a matter of removing three bolts, remove the prop shaft, remove three bolts, remove the doughnut. Have I got this wrong?

Yep, that easy to do the donut itself. And if it breaks while out on the road .. maybe 30 mins to get under the car and do this. Just a bit tricky sometimes to get the shaft off without undoing the front flange too. But I'd undo all 6 nuts and bolts whilst it's still all connected.

If renewing the donut tho due to age or wear, I've seen many posts from various folks saying it's better to renew all three items plus the 6 bolts(or at least the nuts, given they are nylock)
In an side of the road situation all you want is to keep moving.
But in a service environment better to do the lot, and doesn't add a lot of cost to do the pin and the bearing.

I'll get a photo of my D1's old pin and you can see 'wear' marks on the pin, which I can only assume added to the vibes when I replaced just the donut. Vibes gone when I replaced the non branded donut with a GKN donut AND the pin and bearing.
Bearing is the PITA job .. but if you read gusthedog's tribulations on getting the pin out of the diff, this also appears to be problematic in some situations too.

Thinking about the vibrations I got(and others seem to have got) in doing just the donut as a service .. I'm thinking maybe the wear marks on the pin must have made marks in the bearing in the propshaft too. Maybe by removing the shaft to install just the donut, it's quite unlikely that the pin and bearing will be lined up again in the exact same spot, so the wear marks, now moved a bit, could have cause the vibes.