Thread: What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

Soldered up the new fuel temp connector today, handy having the connectors with pigtails, excellent quality too, not what I was expecting for the price, post #7946 for the drivvle

Last night I started removing the Centrifuge housing as I do frequent oil changes on my cars (4 complete oil and both filters since I got it, done under 2000k for the year) and having a good read of what it does (not much) was enough to offload another accessory hanging off the engine.

Finished up this morning putting the disconnected odds and sods back in place and ran for 30 minutes to test for leaks.

IMG_20220125_233425.jpg I chopped off the section of the housing the oil enters, there is an o-ring in the oil cooler housing side that this piece mates to. Used the dynasteel to fill the hole.

IMG_20220125_233450.jpg Other side, this is the end with the 2 bolts facing as it would towards the block, I mixed up a bit much epoxy so used it all up anyway.

IMG_20220125_233511.jpg Another view

IMG_20220126_201823.jpg Underneath I cut the flange off the drain pipe and used it to clamp a 2.5mm blockoff plate to close the sump up, steel washer between sump and makeshift plate with a smear of silicon for added insurance

IMG_20220126_201950.jpg Feed to the centrifuge housing blocked off with the cut off part of the housing flange, it did sit flat against the o-ring but once again I used a smear of silicon around the outside edge for added insurance.

IMG_20220127_132605.jpg Lots of access to the exhaust manifold nuts, water pump and coolant hose and more importantly the screw on filter can now be undone and moved forward into the vacant space and lifted straight up and out.

Before anyone tells me my engine will be 'gone in 60 seconds' and how important this thing is, well, it ain't.

The oil pump feeds both filters in parallel, the centrifuge gets 10 percent of the flow which is spun and dumped back into the sump, it is supposed to spin 3-15 micron particles out of the oil. The other 90 percent goes through the 'standard' filter and feeds the engine proper.

My normal oil change is 6 months and I don't do anywhere near 5000 km in that time, the centrifuge was an add on to increase service interval to 20000 km, I find it a useless add on in my opinion (yours may differ, free world) and a chore/expense I can do without, including having fixed up the stuffed threads due to previous knuckle draggers. The proper lid O ring for these is meant to form into quite a distinct triangle once the lid is bolted down but I found that the aftermarket kits I got from various suppliers all had a skinny ring that barely touched the 3 faces (2 lid and the housing chamfer) and one didn't seal at all and I put the used ring back in after noticing the oil over the block a few days later.

Happy with my centrifuge removal.

And for anyone that remembers, I am still running without the fuel 'cooler' and fuel temp is always lower than coolant temp even on the very hot days. Before I removed it the fuel would eventually heat up and match coolant temp after about 20 minutes of running, not so anymore, stays about 10 degrees lower on average.

Centrifugal filter does a lot more than the element filter. Removing this is a huge backwards step for engine longevity.

fuel has an optimum temperature for correct ignition. Warming it to coolant temp is good. Exceeding coolant temp is not so good. Running for hours out bush in excessive temps will see it climb significantly as the spill warms it up.

Originally Posted by Tombie

Centrifugal filter does a lot more than the element filter. Removing this is a huge backwards step for engine longevity.

fuel has an optimum temperature for correct ignition. Warming it to coolant temp is good. Exceeding coolant temp is not so good. Running for hours out bush in excessive temps will see it climb significantly as the spill warms it up.

This ^

The centrifugal filter filters below 1 micron.

The full flow would probably filter in the range of Beta 2=30 micron, ie. It collects 50% of 30 micron particles in a multi-pass test.

I wouldn't remove it, but that's just me.

I think that one of the main functions of the centrifugal filter is to remove soot from the oil.
TD5s have clean oil even after 5000Km, whereas an older Japanese diesel oil will go black in 1000Km.

Changed the upper radiator hose after roadworthy mechanic used to much gusto tighting the bleed screw and cracked the housing. While doing this found the overflow nipple on the radiator was hanging on by a prayer and it snapped off. Many choice words were said, and off to get a new radiator on Monday. Who seriously makes something so **** weak. It's these moments I really question why I choose to own landrovers.

Today I measured up a Polyaire air bag kit for my D2.
I don't know where they get "suits 2 inch lift" as the airbags and end pieces are much too long. Maybe a clue is that they talk about Nissan Patrols in the instructions.( I have no load and about 40l of fuel in my 150l tank.)

I bought it new off Facebook Market place in it's original box with air gauge and all , and I was probably the only customer in the World for one. LOL

I have cut the bottom spacer down by 20MM but it still may be a bit long. **** job with the best tool being a hand saw, combined with a drop saw, combined with a hacksaw.

I have some 5MM reinforced rubber sheet , so I also cut out 4 pieces the correct diameter, and punched holes for the baseplate bolts.

I had to do the same for my old 91 RRC , and I then just left out the bottom rubber spacer, and the airbag didn't seem to mind the bolt heads.

But the D2 is different with a hole in the middle of the baseplate, so you need some insulator in the bottom.

They should now be just touching the top unladen and then take any load with some PSI in them.
Next I have to do the job, great fun.

Also a couple of months ago I replaced my handbrake shoes as the seal was gone and they were wet. The new ones got wet also, but not so wet. I cleaned them up and refitted with yet another seal and a new drive yolk+. I noticed at the time that the actual shoe material was thinner than those I took off but thought nothing of it. I still had no handbrake, so yesterday spent a joyous hour adjusting the cable in 1/16 turn increments, while avoiding the multi grips holding the inner cable.
I still had no handbrake!
So today I adjusted the shoes again and found that to get a handbrake, the actual adjuster has bottomed. I had a rear wheel in the air and the driveshaft spins freely with the adjuster bottomed
So I now have a good handbrake but the adjuster is out of travel.
This should last a few years so for now I will just enjoy a working handbrake.
In the POM you tubes , they go to lengths to describe a leading and trailing shoe, but For God's sake its a bloody handbrake that must hold in either direction, and all the ebay kits seem to be symmetrical.
Regards PhilipA

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Today I measured up a Polyaire air bag kit for my D2.
I don't know where they get "suits 2 inch lift" as the airbags and end pieces are much too long. Maybe a clue is that they talk about Nissan Patrols in the instructions.( I have no load and about 40l of fuel in my 150l tank.)

I bought it new off Facebook Market place in it's original box with air gauge and all , and I was probably the only customer in the World for one. LOL

I have cut the bottom spacer down by 20MM but it still may be a bit long. **** job with the best tool being a hand saw, combined with a drop saw, combined with a hacksaw.

I have some 5MM reinforced rubber sheet , so I also cut out 4 pieces the correct diameter, and punched holes for the baseplate bolts.

I had to do the same for my old 91 RRC , and I then just left out the bottom rubber spacer, and the airbag didn't seem to mind the bolt heads.

But the D2 is different with a hole in the middle of the baseplate, so you need some insulator in the bottom.

They should now be just touching the top unladen and then take any load with some PSI in them.
Next I have to do the job, great fun.

Also a couple of months ago I replaced my handbrake shoes as the seal was gone and they were wet. The new ones got wet also, but not so wet. I cleaned them up and refitted with yet another seal and a new drive yolk+. I noticed at the time that the actual shoe material was thinner than those I took off but thought nothing of it. I still had no handbrake, so yesterday spent a joyous hour adjusting the cable in 1/16 turn increments, while avoiding the multi grips holding the inner cable.
I still had no handbrake!
So today I adjusted the shoes again and found that to get a handbrake, the actual adjuster has bottomed. I had a rear wheel in the air and the driveshaft spins freely with the adjuster bottomed
So I now have a good handbrake but the adjuster is out of travel.
This should last a few years so for now I will just enjoy a working handbrake.
In the POM you tubes , they go to lengths to describe a leading and trailing shoe, but For God's sake its a bloody handbrake that must hold in either direction, and all the ebay kits seem to be symmetrical.
Regards PhilipA

I feel your pain mate, i really do. Had to do the shoes on mine twice after they lost the first set in transit with my seal kit for the rear output on the transfer. A few weeks later the original lost in transit shoes arrived with the replacements
I'll be happy if i never have to do them again.

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Today I measured up a Polyaire air bag kit for my D2.
I don't know where they get "suits 2 inch lift" as the airbags and end pieces are much too long. Maybe a clue is that they talk about Nissan Patrols in the instructions.( I have no load and about 40l of fuel in my 150l tank.)

I bought it new off Facebook Market place in it's original box with air gauge and all , and I was probably the only customer in the World for one. LOL

I have cut the bottom spacer down by 20MM but it still may be a bit long. **** job with the best tool being a hand saw, combined with a drop saw, combined with a hacksaw.

I have some 5MM reinforced rubber sheet , so I also cut out 4 pieces the correct diameter, and punched holes for the baseplate bolts.

I had to do the same for my old 91 RRC , and I then just left out the bottom rubber spacer, and the airbag didn't seem to mind the bolt heads.

But the D2 is different with a hole in the middle of the baseplate, so you need some insulator in the bottom.

They should now be just touching the top unladen and then take any load with some PSI in them.
Next I have to do the job, great fun.

The polyair works by pushing out through the side of the spring rather than pushing on the spring perches. Interestingly though, for a 4" lift, the Polyairs are just the 2" ones with another bottom spacer.

These are the mounts I have - left is the uppers and right is the lowers.