What happened to your Discovery 2 today?

After the failure of the Starter Motor again wrecking my holiday, got the replacement kit and am underwhelmed, the contacts just do not seem quality and after less than year with the replacements put in already wafer thin, decided that this is not worthwhile. Comparing the kit in hand with others on the net and they all appear the same brassy shiny look rather than the copper expected.


Sure I now have a spare to pack in the back but I want at least an amount of surety rather than making the changing of the contacts a regular servicing so have decided to change the starter motor, not repair. So after a long search have found a replacement new Denso unit for $440 from all x four spares, 10* the kit price but sure this will last longer than a year or two.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RRT

I want at least an amount of surety rather than making the changing of the contacts a regular servicing so have decided to change the starter motor, not repair.

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Given how much fun they are to change I'm not sure I blame you.

Thanks for the info on the brushes, btw. I have a spare I am going to do up. I'll expand my buying options.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onebob

Re the remote filter location, see the pics below of the location that I chose for the filter mount. There’s enough headroom for a Z9 if you want.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0d89ee177d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...79dc204c5c.jpg

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OneBob, does that drop all of the oil out of the filter when you do the filter change? Access looks to be a million times better though!

Attachment 183089 Well, had a bit of trouble getting one of the 2 bolts out that come into the transfer case from the transmission side.

Attachment 183090 The custom modified one came (after a ginormous struggle with long bar) out of this position near the cdl switches. I am assuming, with no knowledge of the internals, that the bolt is too long for that position and was screwed in somehow missing the internal rotating mechanism but was modified on the first test drive, bending the end out the way with a nice wack and no one noticed the noise or ignored it.

I could only get it to loosen a half of a turn, just enough to take the clamping pressure off then it would go rock solid. I decided to put the long bar on as the case was coming off anyway so didn't matter if I snapped the bolt. It came slowly with the head moving in an offset circle on the way out.

Fortunately there is not as much damage as I thought and looks like I can do a helicoil repair. Just another little gift from one of the previous owners to keep me guessing what next.

Attachment 183091 I am not aware that sealant needs to be applied around the input seal.

Attachment 183092 The bolt on the end of the trans output shaft is loose, can undo slightly more with fingers then it jams, can't find anything on it with a brief google search, but I was tired and deflated yesterday so will sort it later unless someone chimes in with advice.

Attachment 183093 I up ended the trans on its face to get bolts undone and lifted off with engine crane, I intend to drill and insert helicoil in from this position to minimise swarf going into the transfer case. I don't want it turning into a bigger job so wont be pulling the case apart, just repair thread, replace the input seal and output seal of trans and back together with the larger torque converter.

While it has been apart I took the opportunity to replace the rear main seal and check the oil pump drive bolt, which has been replaced by someone with a 13mm head (I keep reading they are 10mm flanged head) and definately tight.

Mine is a 99 year but apparently the transfer case going by the 2 cdl switches is a 03/04 unit ? I do have a receipt for a replacement case in the vehicle documentation.

Anyway todays afternoon shift will be fixing that thread, hopefully without having to remove the drive housing for tool clearance.

I was contemplating drilling and re tapping to a larger size but only if the worn hole is too big for the helicoil to seat firmly.

Looks Good bob!

I was planning on making a steel rail(flat steel) to bolt to the anchor points for the engine reset switch, and then bolt both the reset switch and the filter holder to the flat rail.
ie. once fitted like that it brings the filter housing much closer to the firewall, hence why my comment re the diameter of the filter could be hard up against the firewall.

In your install tho, you've set the filter housing further from the firewall. I may then do similar.

Also! .. and I thought about this.. you have the filter above the filter housing, so that filter drains when engine stops. Do you get any mess when removing the filter?
I wasn't sure if I should do an upside down type install myself. My plan was to have the filter hanging(like it does on the engine).

I'd prefer it like you have it orientated tho .. i reckon maybe easier.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

OneBob, does that drop all of the oil out of the filter when you do the filter change? Access looks to be a million times better though!

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Not all the oil will drop out - the anti drain back valve will retain a quantity in filter. I’ve planned the feed and return lines to comprise two sections - half hard line on the engine end part of the run, joining with flexible hose for the run up to the filter. The return hard line will have a weld in threaded flange & plug or some other arrangement to allow draining of the oil filter.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by onebob

Re the remote filter location, see the pics below of the location that I chose for the filter mount. There’s enough headroom for a Z9 if you want.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0d89ee177d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...79dc204c5c.jpg

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But! But! The heat shield!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by johnp38

Attachment 183089 Well, had a bit of trouble getting one of the 2 bolts out that come into the transfer case from the transmission side.

The custom modified one came (after a ginormous struggle with long bar) out of this position near the cdl switches. I am assuming, with no knowledge of the internals, that the bolt is too long for that position and was screwed in somehow missing the internal rotating mechanism but was modified on the first test drive, bending the end out the way with a nice wack and no one noticed the noise or ignored it.


Fortunately there is not as much damage as I thought and looks like I can do a helicoil repair. Just another little gift from one of the previous owners to keep me guessing what next.

I am not aware that sealant needs to be applied around the input seal.

The bolt on the end of the trans output shaft is loose, can undo slightly more with fingers then it jams, can't find anything on it with a brief google search, but I was tired and deflated yesterday so will sort it later unless someone chimes in with advice.

I up ended the trans on its face to get bolts undone and lifted off with engine crane, I intend to drill and insert helicoil in from this position to minimise swarf going into the transfer case. I don't want it turning into a bigger job so wont be pulling the case apart, just repair thread, replace the input seal and output seal of trans and back together with the larger torque converter.

While it has been apart I took the opportunity to replace the rear main seal and check the oil pump drive bolt, which has been replaced by someone with a 13mm head (I keep reading they are 10mm flanged head) and definately tight.

Mine is a 99 year but apparently the transfer case going by the 2 cdl switches is a 03/04 unit ? I do have a receipt for a replacement case in the vehicle documentation.

Anyway todays afternoon shift will be fixing that thread, hopefully without having to remove the drive housing for tool clearance.

I was contemplating drilling and re tapping to a larger size but only if the worn hole is too big for the helicoil to seat firmly.

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Seen the bent or broken bolt too many times. Starting from the drivers side looking at the back of TC, bottom bolt going anti clockwise,
1: short bolt, 2: short bolt, 3: stud, 4: longest bolt, 5: long bolt, 6: long bolt.

Helicoil should work, I've even fitted with a stud to stop someone else being able to do it again.

Rear output bolt 60nm.

Yep it's a late TC.

No the input seal doesn't need silicone around it, but I always replace it along with both intermediate shaft 'O' rings then seal ( after cleaning with brake clean ) the front of the intermediate shaft with Threebond while the TC is out

Quote:

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Originally Posted by discorevy

Seen the bent or broken bolt too many times. Starting from the drivers side looking at the back of TC, bottom bolt going anti clockwise,
1: short bolt, 2: short bolt, 3: stud, 4: longest bolt, 5: long bolt, 6: long bolt.

Helicoil should work, I've even fitted with a stud to stop someone else being able to do it again.

Rear output bolt 60nm.

Yep it's a late TC.

No the input seal doesn't need silicone around it, but I always replace it along with both intermediate shaft 'O' rings then seal ( after cleaning with brake clean ) the front of the intermediate shaft with Threebond while the TC is out

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Dammit I should have checked posts sooner, I did the output bolt as tight as I could while gripping the shaft with vice grips with rag, not 60nm though but better than just sitting in the thread loose.

I replaced the output shaft seal and the input seal of the transfer case and put them together, screwed up and got confused with a 45nm torque setting for the output shaft housing popping in my head versus the 25nm I had read other night, so off with TC but quickly realized the torque wrench wasn't gunna click so soft elbow to match them up to something between 25 -45nm. Hours later i.e. like now, I realized I had read up on both torque measurements for manual and auto box output housing, done it properly at 25, then confuggled myself and attempted to tighten more :(

Toolpro thread repair kit from supercheap fixed the damage and torqued up ok. I didn't pull the TC apart in any way as the leaking was from the join at output housing and TC where silicon had been used to hold it back. And there is only so much I want to do, not learn too many new tricks quite yet so even though I got a full gasket and seal kit for the TC I decided to not get adventurous so didn't replace o rings. I would have cocked it up anyway the way today went, so thankfully less to beat myself up about.

And as I write this I just realized all I had to do was put the bloody thing in park and tighten that output shaft bolt, sheesh what a brain fade I was having today :(

I am not really inclined to pull it apart and back off the output housing bolts then redo to 25nm, and I will chance it that some torque on the output bolt is better than the zero it had for god only knows how long. Unless someone who goes by 'discorevy' says otherwise (I don't argue with ppl that know more than me I just obey)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

OneBob, does that drop all of the oil out of the filter when you do the filter change? Access looks to be a million times better though!

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What about when sitting for a while, some of the oil would drain out.

Would you then have when starting engine, no oil pressure for a few milliseconds until it fills up?