Reply With QuoteI got a blowout on the R/Rear wheel on my D2a yesterday and got reaquainted with the fact that a simple job like changing a wheel on these 4WD's is is Royal PITA
Wizard
SupporterYes! Aeroflow is a good choice! Raceworks also, I've chosen the latter for my planned remote oil filter installation.Originally Posted by johnp38
I got the factory type quick connect fitting in the post, ( I had shortened the line but lost the original fitting which I was going to push back on, hence the mod) removed my mod and pushed the new fitting into the nylon line.
So now my fuel pressure block has return line outlet pipe identical to inlet pipe and inlet and return nylon lines clip on with quick connect fittings.
I used a pipe flaring tool and caulking gun to push the fitting on to the nylon fuel line cold as I have seen on a few youtube vids, worked a treat but swearing helped alleviate the frustration of doing it in situ on the vehicle.
Of course it's a landrover so wouldn't start after !!
But that's tomorrows job.
AF49-7000 - AEROFLOW PUSH ON EFI FUEL FITTINGS STRAIGHT 5/16" PUSH ON TO 5/16" (outlawspeed.com.au)
Re the non-start... did you prime the fuel system?? if not then that's quite likely to be your problem, read on for the fix..........
TD5 fuel pump priming procedure two ways
one way… (preferred)
To start a TD5 after working on the fuel system OR running out of diesel.
1) Refill tank to at least 1/4 full
2) Turn ignition on, depress accelerator 5 times.
3) The MIL will then flash, this is purge mode (once completed the MIL will turn off).
4) Then hold the accelerator to the floor, crank engine over.
Once engine begins to start, bring the accelerator pedal up about half way until it fully starts.
There will lots of white smoke (unburnt fuel) but all will be good.
You will need a good battery to achieve this.
another way…
1) Refill tank to at least 1/4 full
2) Turn ignition ON and wait 30s.
3) Turn ignition OFF for 15s.
4) Repeat steps 2 & 3 six times.
5) After final 30s period fully depress the accelerator.
6) Keeping pedal depressed crank the engine.
7) Continue cranking, as soon as the engine is firing smoothly ease off
the accelerator approximately 1/2 way and release the starter key. The
engine should now be running.
8) If the engine fails to start, repeat the above.
LROCV member #131
1999 build D2 TD5 Auto, Mantec snorkel, 2" LRA spring lift, ARB on board air, Ashcroft ATB, CMM air ram CDL shifter, swag & gold pans ....
OldBushie
SupporterI got a blowout on the R/Rear wheel on my D2a yesterday and got reaquainted with the fact that a simple job like changing a wheel on these 4WD's is is Royal PITA
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
Wizard
SupporterWhat made it so difficult? Stuck on the hub?I got a blowout on the R/Rear wheel on my D2a yesterday and got reaquainted with the fact that a simple job like changing a wheel on these 4WD's is is Royal PITA
OldBushie
SupporterOf course
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
Master
SupporterThanks, that is a nice concise summary of what I have been doing haphazardly, now I have the correct order to follow.
I've had the battery on charge overnight as it was weak on crank and dropped out yesterday, also my tank is near on fumes and I will follow your advice and grab the jerry cans for a trip to the servo. Cheers
Master
SupporterThe D2 diesel should fire up after running out of fuel by adding only 5L to the tank. Don’t need 1/4 tank full. I know as mine has done and walked to a servo to buy their exorbitantly priced fuel can.
Procedure in the owners handbook works.
Cheers
Simon
2003 D2a TD5, ACE, SLS, Vienna Green.
Master
SupporterI actually walked out to grab the jerry can and thought I would give it another shot first, had already done the 5 accelerator pump thing last night a few times and so I unhooked the flattery charger and cranked it with foot flat to the floor (this is the bit I forget) till it started spluttering then idled up ok.
It's actually just above the red with low fuel light on.
I don't have owners handbook but do have the RAVE pdf.
IMG_20210822_145436.jpg
Pic of aeroflow connector on return line.
ChatterBox
A good set of vice grips should get that out. Ask me how I know?Got one stud out sweet as all was going well then snapped the extractor on the 2nd one now I have a bit of carbon steel stuck in my way that none of my drill bits will drill through
At least I got the EGT probe done should get a decent reading there.
OldBushie
You’re lucky then.
Several I’ve dealt with wouldn’t fire with less than 20l
Master
It was lol I realized after that I shouldn't have used a drill for that part, I was going really slow with it got over confidant after the first one was so easy .... :/
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