There are a great number of different "isolators" available, a photo of the installation would help us.....
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						Hi, in My D2 i have an dual battery setup from the previous owner and the battery isolator isnt working correctly, so i want to know what should i look for in an solution? Its all connected well and charges but doesnt isolate it,
Also there seems to be and fuse running from the box out and then its cut off so i dont know whats that for.
Any help would be good
Thanks
There are a great number of different "isolators" available, a photo of the installation would help us.....
Michael T
2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)
 Fossicker
					
					
						Fossicker
					
					
                                        
					
					
						True, but its all good now its worked out
 Master
					
					
						Master
					
					
                                        
					
					
						the isolator /solenoid may have been bypassed
so both battery's are hooked up full time
if its one of those digital things allow time for it to kick in and out
If you need a new isolator, get one from Tim at Traxide.
In my opinion, you can't beat them
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
Build date 11th Oct 2003
Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
LROCV #1410
There is a little more to it. A lead acid battery will only receive the amount of charge that it wants.
When flat it will take a large amount, but as it becomes charged the amount of current that it receives tappers off, reasonably fast.
A Lithium on the other hand, regardless of state of charge, will take what ever you throw at it.
As an example. I have a lithium battery which has 190 AH capacity. Lets say I use 150 amps whilst camping.
It is raining all day so my solar is not working. I decide to pack up and drive home. My D2 alternator is going to supply its full output to the battery, minus what the car needs.
Lets say I leave at night. I don't know what the D2 needs in AH for night driving. I will just pick a number, lets say 30 amps. I think the D2 alternator is 120 amps
This leaves 90 AH available for charging the lithium. The battery will accept this and it will take about an hour and a half to charge it.
So your alternator will be outputting its full capacity for one and a half hours.
Do this regularly and your alternator is not going to last very long.
This is why I have to run a DC to DC charger. I have one that outputs 50 amps max. This protects my alternator.
A DC to DC is also required for lead acid on late model cars that have a smart alternator.
Dave.
I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."
1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
1996 TDI ES.
2003 TD5 HSE
1987 Isuzu County
Hi,
Yep, I have dialled the dc-dc to 20Amp for similar reasons. Since going Li with the house battery, I'm not chasing the last rays of sun with a solar panel.
Nice!
Cheers
Edit
The dc-dc charger stops charging the Li when it reaches full charge.
Cheers
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