Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 34

Thread: Discovery 2 Dual Battery

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    48
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Discovery 2 Dual Battery

    Hi, in My D2 i have an dual battery setup from the previous owner and the battery isolator isnt working correctly, so i want to know what should i look for in an solution? Its all connected well and charges but doesnt isolate it,

    Also there seems to be and fuse running from the box out and then its cut off so i dont know whats that for.

    Any help would be good

    Thanks

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra, Australia
    Posts
    786
    Total Downloaded
    0
    There are a great number of different "isolators" available, a photo of the installation would help us.....
    Michael T
    2011 L322 Range Rover 4.4 TDV8 Vogue
    Aussie '88 RR Tdi300 (+lpg), Auto (RIP ... now body removed after A pillar, chassis extension to 130 & fire tender tray.)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    48
    Total Downloaded
    0
    True, but its all good now its worked out

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    wa perth
    Posts
    114
    Total Downloaded
    0
    the isolator /solenoid may have been bypassed

    so both battery's are hooked up full time

    if its one of those digital things allow time for it to kick in and out

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Tatura, Vic
    Posts
    6,336
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If you need a new isolator, get one from Tim at Traxide.
    In my opinion, you can't beat them
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Location
    Williamstown, Victoria
    Posts
    3,244
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by d2dave View Post
    If you need a new isolator, get one from Tim at Traxide.
    In my opinion, you can't beat them
    I've had a Traxide SC80 for about 6 years. A wonderful bit of kit. Why people use a DC - DC chargers is beyond me.
    D2a Td5 Manual, Chawton White. aka "Daisy"
    Build date 11th Oct 2003
    Freelander 2 2011, manual, the daughter calls it Perri
    Before I had a Land Rover I did not have any torque wrenches. Now I have three.
    LROCV #1410

  7. #7
    austastar's Avatar
    austastar is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    3,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Bohica View Post
    Why people use a DC - DC chargers is beyond me.
    Hi,
    A Li battery has a different charging profile, so a dc-dc is needed to get a full charge in to it.
    Cheers

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Tatura, Vic
    Posts
    6,336
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by austastar View Post
    Hi,
    A Li battery has a different charging profile, so a dc-dc is needed to get a full charge in to it.
    Cheers
    There is a little more to it. A lead acid battery will only receive the amount of charge that it wants.

    When flat it will take a large amount, but as it becomes charged the amount of current that it receives tappers off, reasonably fast.

    A Lithium on the other hand, regardless of state of charge, will take what ever you throw at it.

    As an example. I have a lithium battery which has 190 AH capacity. Lets say I use 150 amps whilst camping.

    It is raining all day so my solar is not working. I decide to pack up and drive home. My D2 alternator is going to supply its full output to the battery, minus what the car needs.

    Lets say I leave at night. I don't know what the D2 needs in AH for night driving. I will just pick a number, lets say 30 amps. I think the D2 alternator is 120 amps

    This leaves 90 AH available for charging the lithium. The battery will accept this and it will take about an hour and a half to charge it.

    So your alternator will be outputting its full capacity for one and a half hours.

    Do this regularly and your alternator is not going to last very long.

    This is why I have to run a DC to DC charger. I have one that outputs 50 amps max. This protects my alternator.

    A DC to DC is also required for lead acid on late model cars that have a smart alternator.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  9. #9
    austastar's Avatar
    austastar is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    3,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi,
    Yep, I have dialled the dc-dc to 20Amp for similar reasons. Since going Li with the house battery, I'm not chasing the last rays of sun with a solar panel.
    Nice!

    Cheers

  10. #10
    austastar's Avatar
    austastar is offline YarnMaster Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Hobart
    Posts
    3,532
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Edit
    The dc-dc charger stops charging the Li when it reaches full charge.
    Cheers

Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!