Thread: New Head Gaskets

Originally Posted by DAW

I cut my teeth on these engines/cars when i worked for Land Rover.

15ft/lb + 90 Degree on compasite gaskets is what I torqued EVERY RV8 up to. I think last time i checked my work log I had done 86 engines. The factory spec is 15ft/lb 90 deg + 90 deg. This was pulling the thread out the block.

I can confirm this is baloney with regards to a Land Rover Discovery 2003 4 litre V8

Followed the manual 20Nm + 90 degree + 90 degree

I waited about 30 - 45 mins between the 90 degree turns

(Installed Victor Reinz composite gaskets)

Originally Posted by Andrew D

I can confirm this is baloney with regards to a Land Rover Discovery 2003 4 litre V8

Followed the manual 20Nm + 90 degree + 90 degree

I waited about 30 - 45 mins between the 90 degree turns

X2.
Ehlring MLS gasket and bolts from Roverlord. No problems.

cometic mls plus arp studs at over 90lbs in 4 stages.

already lasted twice as long as the expert build from BOR.....

How many k's now Pedro?

Cheers

around 35K,, with probably a third? of those towing the van,,

Job done but now she is blowing a heap of white smoke out the rear. Idle is good/ok

Maybe a fuel injector or something is not connected. Also takes longer to start.

Job for next weekend now. Bugger.

I pulled all the injectors and serviced them during the process of doing the heads. Is there a chance air is trapped in the fuel rail? (A: Not likely. The fuel pump pushes the fuel up to 3.5 bar. After this it is redirected to the swirl pot. All 8 injectors acknowledge the correct pressure).

The rig is a bit sluggish as if not firing on all cylinders when trying to accelerate. Timing seems stuffed.

Another Extra Note

Plan of Attack for the Weekend

I did a pressure clean of the lower block when the heads were off. I did cover all the cylinders and valley to prevent water ingress however maybe not water tight. I may also have been less thorough with the exhaust pipes and some water may have entered these during the pressure clean. This would contribute to the white smoke, extra condensation out the exhaust and rough acceleration with the O2s noticing additional vapour. Plan is just to heat it up to burn the H2O. - This is Plan A

Plan B - Check the resistance of O2 sensors (?)

Plan C - Check the resistance in the fuel injectors

I'm not questioning how well I did the work on the heads because I know this was on the money.. Execution was lacking in parts obviously.

Couldn't wait for the weekend for the lower hanging fruit so had a crack at Plan A.

This solved what looked like a miniature bushfire. Water in the exhaust. Still a small amount after about 15 mins when I punch the accelerator but I think it's justifiable at this stage. Still a bit pungent and still possibly burning too much fuel. O2s may not have enjoyed the bath or drying process.

In solving one problem it wouldn't be right to not find another issue which was the joint before the centre muffler. This is now loose. Most likely due to the fact when I unhooked the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds I just let them hang there. Didn't think it was a big issue as the O2 sensors still had slack, but obviously not. Sat like that for almost 3 weeks, oops.

This hole (loose joint) in the exhaust I believe is playing havoc with the acceleration and a few other items.

Apart from that it's still sluggish to start but all appears to be fair. Plan B and C will also have their chances over the weekend until I get it to start straight up like it did previously.

What's the key to refilling the radiators on these rigs. Do you have to stand on one foot or something when holding the expansion bottle 20 cm above it's normal spot when refilling. Seems to be bit f'd up.

Plenty of posts on how to fill them,,
just lifting the res up high seems to work most times,,

o2's are simple to check, $20 obd2 bluetooth and smartphone and bingo, voltage should vary constantly from limits of .1 to .9

there is no return fuel line. pump runs to hold pressure as required.