Thread: Lyhoon's D2 write up - warning: long

Originally Posted by PhilipA

If you can get a factory linkage that is the best solution IMHO.
They came in D2A 2003-05 only so you have to be quick.
Usual ask is about $500.
I was able to get one from a wrecker in Melbourne who even threw in the correct sticker and an auto shift lever for under $500.
Try Outback 1 who wrecks D2s constantly.
I don't know why everyone seems to think you need the internals as you said you had them, so you have an EU2 99-2001 then.

Regards Philip A

Post#14 on the 2/3/17
The op states no CDL internals
Try reading the whole thread before sprouting your banter in future

Originally Posted by PhilipA

If you can get a factory linkage that is the best solution IMHO.
They came in D2A 2003-05 only so you have to be quick.
Usual ask is about $500.
I was able to get one from a wrecker in Melbourne who even threw in the correct sticker and an auto shift lever for under $500.
Try Outback 1 who wrecks D2s constantly.
I don't know why everyone seems to think you need the internals as you said you had them, so you have an EU2 99-2001 then.

Regards Philip A

Hey Philip!

Among double checking the vin against the thread that had been pinned on the front page, I found out there's no internals on my model as it's a 2002 model so internals and something to switch it on (actuator or linkage, still need to research) are needed.

Thank you for your help though, unfortunately not ready to buy yet, still need to set the coin away.

Regards

Ly

Originally Posted by rangieman

Post#14 on the 2/3/17
The op states no CDL internals
Try reading the whole thread before sprouting your banter in future

There's a lot to read in one go hahahah

I need to get on a laptop and edit/clean it all up but I'm way too lazy for this

OK as the youngies say"my Bad"

Still if you can get the nose from even a 99-2001 it will have the internals and there are a couple of how tos on the web.

I paid $200 for a dismantled EU2 case with half a diff hemispere missing, but it had the nose with the dog clutch and selector shaft.Good side is that I now have a complete case If my intermediate shaft housing goes oval.

You should switch your front bearing into another nose if you find one to keep the diff preload correct. You may find that your diff shims need replacing also.

Regards Philip A

Have a talk to a wrecker in UK specializing in D2. I got the whole box and dice, with actuators and cables, for $150 (say $A250) landed.

For instance, have a look at Jon Daunter Limited. Takes a bit of negotiating, and a bank transfer sometimes, but much more available than in Oz.

Cheers
Pete

Thanks Pete and Phillip!

I see benefits to both paths as well the Ashcroft kit so I'll have a ponder while the coin stacks!

Will keep you guys posted.

Had some spare time so thought I'd investigate the warm drivers side door well.

Looks like this could be it.



Thoughts? Solutions?

I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to look like that, no grommet, torn parts of foam

Originally Posted by lyhoon94

Had some spare time so thought I'd investigate the warm drivers side door well.

Looks like this could be it.



Thoughts? Solutions?

I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to look like that, no grommet, torn parts of foam

Not sure if it was the problem but seems logical to plug the hole that might be letting the hot engine air in and see how things go.

I cut up some pool noodle down to size so she'd fit then cut a slit through the middle so it opened up like a hot dog bun. Existing cables through the middle and then wedged into the hole.

If anyone can throw up a picture of what their engine bay looks like so I can understand what's happened here, that would be muchly appreciated.