Thread: New 'uprated' turbo in.

And the conclusion is ?

There is a steep section of road that used to knock my speed down a fair bit, I never measured it before but now on cruise control at 110 it drops back to 100. That seems a lot better than it was but like I said I hadn't actually measured it before.

The vehicle certainly feels less stressed at 110 and holds that speed everywhere but this steep pinch.

I believe it's main benefit will be what it allows a remap to do but economy may be boosted by having more air in the cylinders.

Feel is better but hard to quantify.

Cheers

Mike

Just confirm, did you use this https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...Cartridge.html ? or something similar?

Originally Posted by sierrafery

Just confirm, did you use this Uprated Hybrid Billet Turbo CHRA Core 452239- Land Rover Defender Discovery TD5 Turbocharger Cartridge ? or something similar?

That is what a large majority of us have gone with and there is a group buy happening at the moment

Yep,

Just confirm, did you use this https://www.turborebuild.co.uk/websh...Cartridge.html

that's the one.

Cheers

Mike

I installed my core today. I followed nismine01's instructions and didn't remove the turbo. On the whole much easier. There were a few bits that would have been easier with it off the car, but not enough to make me want to remove the turbo. I have added some photos and added to nismine01's instructions. (I like to look at other peoples pics, so I posted a few).

All up it took me 2 hours including photos.

The before:
I don't have a heat sheild

20170902_125252.jpg

Take off the heat shield, the oil feed and return pipes, the pressure hose to the turbo waste gate actuator and the air hoses.



Remove the circlip holding the actuator rod to the waste gate
A couple of pics with the provent piping removed and shot of the circlip.
The circlup was easy enough to remove. Just watch it doesnt flick off.
20170902_130046.jpg20170902_130034.jpg


and undo and remove the four bolts (8mm) and semi circular retaining plates from the exhaust side of the central body.

These are a little difficult, you can't get a socket or a ring spanner on them as there is not enough clearance. I needed to use an open ended 10mm. If you notice from the next pic, I couldn't get one of the nuts off. You only really need to remove the top and bottom ones that are closest you. You can then lever the plates around. Once they are up, the core will come out. There is no reason to remove them entirely.

20170902_131547.jpg20170902_133817.jpg



A couple of taps gently with a hammer and the centerpiece comes out.

Mine took a few more than a couple of taps to come out. I needed to get a small pry bar to lever it out.

20170902_133817.jpg20170902_133746.jpg





Clean the mating surface on the exhaust body, it should just need a wipe around as the original turbo centre was clamped to it.



Undo the six bolts holding the snail to the centre section and tap apart.



The bolts simply hold the core in place. They do not actually bolt right through it. So it doesn't have a specific orientation for the core. pic of the bolts too.20170902_134602.jpg

20170902_133746.jpg20170902_133800.jpg



The new intake wheel looks the same as the original one but has about 5mm longer vanes.

Clean any muck (oil and dust stuck to the inside) from the intake snail.

Pic of my old one and the intake snail. not overly oily.

20170902_134725.jpg20170902_134729.jpg


Fit the new centre section and loosely fit the four bolts and plates, align the ports for the oil feed pipe and return pipe, bolt up the return pipe using the new gasket and tighten the four holding bolts. Before fitting the oil feed pipe gently squirt some oil (supplied in a syringe) into the oil feed port, spin the compressor fan as you do this to ensure the bearings have lube before start up, then fit the oil feed pipe with new copper washers supplied.

The gasket they sent me was wrong, so I had to refit the old one.

20170902_141142.jpg20170902_140922.jpg20170902_140931.jpg

Now fit the intake side of the turbo body, ensuring the 'O' ring stays in place. Loosely fit all six bolts and ensure the waste gate actuator mounting tabs are at the top and lines up correctly with the pressure port facing down and out from the motor, refit the actuator rod to the waste gate and refit the circlip.

Now tighten the six bolts going cris cross across from one side to the other, finally check by going around them.

Note that the feed and drain pipes are too close to the backside of the core and wont allow you to get them in. So once fitted and before you tighten up the other bolts, spin the snail around to allow you to wind the bolts in so they clear the pipes. Then spin it back to align it properly, and then re-tighten all the bolts.


Refit the heat shield, do not be tempted to leave it off you will melt your washer hoses and (I did) set fire to the sound proofing on the bonnet.

Refit all hoses and you should be ready to go.

the big question being. Did it make any noticeable difference.

Yes and no. I had 245/75/16 wheels on my car previously. I then put on a set of 32" muddies from a car I parted. I ran them briefly and sold them and put the 245s back on. Then yesterday I got a set of new mickey thompson deegan 32s put on.

So I really cant say what difference it has made as I'm not all that used to how it drives with the new tyres.

However, it does make more boost. i will need to wind my wastegate modulator down. I'm hitting 20psi quite easily without having to bury my foot too far.

Originally Posted by clintooo

I installed my core today. I followed nismine01's instructions and didn't remove the turbo. On the whole much easier. There were a few bits that would have been easier with it off the car, but not enough to make me want to remove the turbo. I have added some photos and added to nismine01's instructions. (I like to look at other peoples pics, so I posted a few).

All up it took me 2 hours including photos.

The before:
I don't have a heat sheild

20170902_125252.jpg

Take off the heat shield, the oil feed and return pipes, the pressure hose to the turbo waste gate actuator and the air hoses.



Remove the circlip holding the actuator rod to the waste gate
A couple of pics with the provent piping removed and shot of the circlip.
The circlup was easy enough to remove. Just watch it doesnt flick off.
20170902_130046.jpg20170902_130034.jpg


and undo and remove the four bolts (8mm) and semi circular retaining plates from the exhaust side of the central body.

These are a little difficult, you can't get a socket or a ring spanner on them as there is not enough clearance. I needed to use an open ended 10mm. If you notice from the next pic, I couldn't get one of the nuts off. You only really need to remove the top and bottom ones that are closest you. You can then lever the plates around. Once they are up, the core will come out. There is no reason to remove them entirely.

20170902_131547.jpg20170902_133817.jpg



A couple of taps gently with a hammer and the centerpiece comes out.

Mine took a few more than a couple of taps to come out. I needed to get a small pry bar to lever it out.

20170902_133817.jpg20170902_133746.jpg





Clean the mating surface on the exhaust body, it should just need a wipe around as the original turbo centre was clamped to it.



Undo the six bolts holding the snail to the centre section and tap apart.



The bolts simply hold the core in place. They do not actually bolt right through it. So it doesn't have a specific orientation for the core. pic of the bolts too.20170902_134602.jpg

20170902_133746.jpg20170902_133800.jpg



The new intake wheel looks the same as the original one but has about 5mm longer vanes.

Clean any muck (oil and dust stuck to the inside) from the intake snail.

Pic of my old one and the intake snail. not overly oily.

20170902_134725.jpg20170902_134729.jpg


Fit the new centre section and loosely fit the four bolts and plates, align the ports for the oil feed pipe and return pipe, bolt up the return pipe using the new gasket and tighten the four holding bolts. Before fitting the oil feed pipe gently squirt some oil (supplied in a syringe) into the oil feed port, spin the compressor fan as you do this to ensure the bearings have lube before start up, then fit the oil feed pipe with new copper washers supplied.

The gasket they sent me was wrong, so I had to refit the old one.

20170902_141142.jpg20170902_140922.jpg20170902_140931.jpg

Now fit the intake side of the turbo body, ensuring the 'O' ring stays in place. Loosely fit all six bolts and ensure the waste gate actuator mounting tabs are at the top and lines up correctly with the pressure port facing down and out from the motor, refit the actuator rod to the waste gate and refit the circlip.

Now tighten the six bolts going cris cross across from one side to the other, finally check by going around them.

Note that the feed and drain pipes are too close to the backside of the core and wont allow you to get them in. So once fitted and before you tighten up the other bolts, spin the snail around to allow you to wind the bolts in so they clear the pipes. Then spin it back to align it properly, and then re-tighten all the bolts.


Refit the heat shield, do not be tempted to leave it off you will melt your washer hoses and (I did) set fire to the sound proofing on the bonnet.

Refit all hoses and you should be ready to go.

Great write up Clintooo!!

I'll be taking mine off completely due to the new ceramic coated manifold going on at the same time

Cheers Lemo