There are the instructions on Nanocom website, but there isnt really much to tell really...anything particular you need to know?
BTW if your planning on using it regularly as an instrument, highly reccomend a switched OBD2 cable.... Ive got this one and it works great as an extension cable between the OBD2 port and the nanocom cable
There are the instructions on Nanocom website, but there isnt really much to tell really...anything particular you need to know?
BTW if your planning on using it regularly as an instrument, highly reccomend a switched OBD2 cable.... Ive got this one and it works great as an extension cable between the OBD2 port and the nanocom cable
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
Sure will, little concerned about the second cable as the pics show a 9 pin connector, and I'm not sure it will match the nanocom pinout (not sure if there is a standard for OBD2 to 16pin Dsub)
plan C is to replace the Dsub connector with a right angle connector and fix any pinout issues myself, bit more work, but will still cost less than $15
I doubt the second cable is suitable, chances of them using a 16 core cable to populate a 9 pin plug seems unlikely. They may have joined earths, but without checking I'd doubt there are 7 earths...
You'd need to buzz out the nanocom cable and fit the right connector. You may find there is also a specific connector which would be better, it has a longer earth pin so that you earth before any of the other pins connect, this might be what a good OBD connector has, if these cheap ones don't then you run the risk of zapping the nanocom, which they seem concerned about.
For all these reasons ive bought multiple cables and have a plan D.
The thing to remember about the dsub connector is once you have the switch and/or a more accesible ODB2 port then the problems with connecting and disconnecting a live nanocom at the dsub disappear
For all these reasons ive bought multiple cables and have a plan D.
The thing to remember about the dsub connector is once you have the switch and/or a more accessible ODB2 port then the problems with connecting and disconnecting a live nanocom at the dsub disappear
I recall seeing a diagrammatic layout of the cables and pins somewhere but can't find it at the moment, despite a fairly comprehensive look. I think about only 9 cables were involved. Maybe Paul/Offtrack can remember? Or just had a thought - on Nanocom's site?
Just found it (where it should have been). Hopefully attached
D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies
There are the instructions on Nanocom website, but there isnt really much to tell really...anything particular you need to know?
You might be underestimating the complexity.
Sierrafery - who I'd class as an experienced user - was advising someone to write down injector codes and throttle settings when swapping ECU's. He was quite surprised when I pointed out that you can save these settings to file, and reload.
I recall seeing a diagrammatic layout of the cables and pins somewhere but can't find it at the moment, despite a fairly comprehensive look. I think about only 9 cables were involved. Maybe Paul/Offtrack can remember? Or just had a thought - on Nanocom's site?
Just found it (where it should have been). Hopefully attached
On the D2 the OBD2 connector has the following pins connected:
4 - Earth
5 - Earth
7 - K-line
15 - Power
In addition the Wabco Fuel Burning heater connects to Pin 13 but this is not supported by the Nanocom.
pins 4 and 5 on the OBD2 connector can be bridged, as can 8 and 15 on the D-15 connector, so you can get by with a total of 3 wires connected if you only plan to use on a d2.
Well looks like the second cable didn't work out as there was not enough connected cores, interestingly cores 4,5,7,16 (and 15, but think thats a typo) were present, buteven when these were connected to the 15 pin DSUB as per the provided diagram it was no go.
Plan D is to remove the OBD2 conenctor from the first cable and put the 15 pin DSUB on there, no reason why that wont work
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Originally Posted by bgkdavis
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