I had a 2000 D2 TD5 let its head gasket go at 150,000km.
Symptoms were a slow loss of coolant that did not fail a pressure test - I think the gasket acted like a duck-bill valve from the compression side to the coolant and initially the system was pressurised and the pressure built up more over a trip until it pushed coolant out the overflow. But a pressure test did not force it back the other way. In hindsight A PRESSURE TEST CONDUCTED OVER A COURSE OF TIME WITH THE ENGINE ON WOULD REVEAL IT AS A PRESSURE BUILD UP. This was initially misdiagnosed as a faulty radiator cap. Look for a dried coolant mark on the side of the engine sound/shroud cover thing, where the overflow pipe exit is.
As it got worse it seemed like a faulty starter motor as the coolant started moving both ways. So when stopped for a while the coolant went into the cylinder and caused a temporary hydraulic lock on starting.
Eventually it let go more spectacularly and the motor overheated and went into limp mode.
The ‘smoke’ you saw in a case like mine was actually steam.
It's not hard, and you learn something about the vehicle all the time(which isn't a bad thing to know).
A Nanocom is your best friend for a TD5 hobby mechanic!
Add to that the MAF and possibly the Waste Gate Modulator(WGM) too.
Get some MAF cleaner(spray). MAF comes out easily, and give it a few seconds of cleaning.
You can drive a TD5 with the MAF electrical plug disconnected to see if anything changes in the way the engine runs.
Another option is the waste gate modulator solenoid thingie.
Firstly you can check the condition of the small hoses to and from it.
I changed my brother's hoses simply on the basis that they're probably 17 yo and could split at any (usually inconvenient!) moment, and that hose is about $6 for a meter.
The WGM sits just under the aircon compressor and top hose inlet at the head. remove the MAF and it's inlet hose and you get good access to it .... A small solenoid device with 3 small hoses going to and from it. One of them controls the turbo pressure.
There's a quick and easy mod to bypass it.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
THAT'S THE SPIRIT. If the vehicle is not your only means of transport, head down, bum up, softly, softly catchee monkey. A learning curve worth learning. Buy a RAVE disc, if you haven't already , and spend some time studying it. Go to the GOOD OIL, and other parts of the forum. Take in what others have said, but make your own judgement. A journey worth starting. Good luck, look forward to hearing the outcome.
I’m pretty sure the dinosaurs died out when they stopped gathering food and started having meetings to discuss gathering food
A bookshop is one of the only pieces of evidence we have that people are still thinking
A left field thought......I think you said you were away from home and had recently refuelled, are you sure you put diesel in, not petrol? I once accidentally (of course!) topped up my D1 with petrol at an unfamiliar pump and it kept going but gradually lost power. Would be an easy solution.
Recently my WGM had intermittent failures which produced a momentary lack of power and lots of smoke at about 2500 to 3000 RPM under load with full throttle. Replaced it and the difference was immediate and pronounced. While I was at it I also replaced the turbo hoses with pretty blue silicone ones as the two long ones were showing signs of collapsing and were full of oil which led me to tackling the intercooler emptying more oil than the Exxon Valdez from it.
Cheers,
Mark F...
Vk3KW
2002 D2 Td5 auto - current AKA The Citrus Money Pit
2000 Disco 2 Td5 Manual - dead and gone
197? Range Rover - gone
1973 SWB SIII Diesel, 1968 SWB IIA Petrol, 195? SI Petrol - all gone
Outback Campers Sturt
http://jandmf.com
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