Thread: Replacing rear pads and discs. Any traps for the unwary?

Originally Posted by Bohica

I may as well bleed the brakes at the same time. They are due.

If you have never bleed brakes before I wouldn't recommend it. In fact I would strongly recommend against it. Baby steps.

You would be better off changing all the pads and discs and potentially taking it to a garage/mechanic to bleed the system or do it with someone who is experienced in bleeding brakes.

Originally Posted by Andrew D

If you have never bleed brakes before I wouldn't recommend it. In fact I would strongly recommend against it. Baby steps.

You would be better off changing all the pads and discs and potentially taking it to a garage/mechanic to bleed the system or do it with someone who is experienced in bleeding brakes.

I agree.
If you haven't had any experiance bleeding brakes either get it done at a workshop or better still get someone that does know what they are doing to show you how to do the job.
If the fluid hasn't been changed for a while it is probably a good idea to do this at the same time as well.

Originally Posted by AK83

On a side note: is the D2 reservoir/master cylinder rebuildable? Brother's has been leaking very slowly for ever and a day, but not dangerously so. The leak is between the reservoir and the cylinder.
I've seen some info(google searching) claiming that they've rebuilt them, but most posts seem to say replace the entire assembly.

Yes, you can get a kit. I has a new reservoir, the grommets/seals at the connection to the master cylinder and new seals for the master cylinder.
Cost about $100 genuine from LR. part numbers vary by VIN like SJJ100360
Easy job.

Originally Posted by trout1105

....
If you were working for me and you didn't ensure that the coolant, oil brake/clutch fluids were at the recommended levels after doing a prestart you would be looking for another job.
To rely on an idiot light to tell you your brakes are ****ed instead of making absolutely sure that you have enough brake fluid especilly on a Landrover product is lunacy

I don't really rely on the 'idiot light' so to speak.

But explain this:

What are the "recommended levels"?

There is a high mark and a low mark .. doesn't it make sense that anything in between surely must be "recommended levels"
If not, then why mark them in that way .. and not just a single mark?

as an example:
Say your oil level mark is 1-2mm below the high mark. Do you immediately add 100ml of oil to keep it at the high mark to guard against a potential catastrophe?
I know with my 300 Tdi, I add somewhere between 0.5 and 1 lt if it's at the low mark(which is more of an approximation more so than an actual capacity point).
It depends on the ground level, and my D1 has a high rear, low front type stance(as I got it, and one day to be sorted).

As I noticed on the D2 brake reservoir, the difference in distance between it's low mark and high mark is about 25mm. Reservoir shape is not linear, so hard to calculate actual difference in capacity between the two marks.
They're approximately equidistant between the seam that bonds the upper and lower parts of the plastic body together.
But one inch of difference is quite a bit for that reservoir(I'd estimate at least 100-200ml).

Question is, why would the manufacturer mark them so far apart it it were imperative that the recommended level should be close to full?

Same with oil, and same with coolant .. and whatever else.

Like I said tho, if I see that the brake fluid is low, my immediate thought is that pads are getting thin.
First thing I do is order pads(or shoes).
Next thing I'll do is replace them at my earliest convenience(even if they have a safe amount of meat left on them). With the note that this could be a matter of weeks, or the next day).
I hate drum brakes, so my Rodeo always got brakes done at my mechanic.
But if the pads have plenty of meat and the reservoir is low(not necessarily at the low mark too mind you) then of course the process of working out why it's lost fluid (but pads are still full) begins(ie. what's leaking).

thanks beeutey and jwb: brother will be happier to know there's a kit.

Originally Posted by AK83

There is a high mark and a low mark .. doesn't it make sense that anything in between surely must be "recommended levels"

No, in between the the high and low are acceptable levels. I believe just below the high mark is recommended.

Originally Posted by AK83

As I noticed on the D2 brake reservoir, the difference in distance between it's low mark and high mark is about 25mm. Reservoir shape is not linear, so hard to calculate actual difference in capacity between the two marks.
They're approximately equidistant between the seam that bonds the upper and lower parts of the plastic body together.
But one inch of difference is quite a bit for that reservoir(I'd estimate at least 100-200ml).

The 80ml syringe and some aspiration will give you an exact quantity.

Originally Posted by AK83

Question is, why would the manufacturer mark them so far apart it it were imperative that the recommended level should be close to full?

Because Land Rover needs you to have at least one eye on the road because everyone knows the other one is glued to the temperature gauge.

Originally Posted by AK83

Like I said tho, if I see that the brake fluid is low, my immediate thought is that pads are getting thin.
First thing I do is order pads(or shoes).
Next thing I'll do is replace them at my earliest convenience(even if they have a safe amount of meat left on them). With the note that this could be a matter of weeks, or the next day).

Your average Joe would probably put $2 worth of brake fluid in the reservoir and continue driving. I don't think it's that common for people to change their own brake pads. People in general wouldn't even know when to change them.

If a mechanic was to do them they are a small fortune compared to material costs and the dealers are even worse as they up-sell like crazy.

I'm surprised it dosnt say safe in between min and max. My old f350 (351) had a safe zone on the oil dipstick I thought it was pretty funny.
Cheers Jim

Originally Posted by Bohica

The pads are here and the discs arrived today. RAVE looks straightforwards. (doesn't it always? ) The only problem I am aware of is removing the screw that holds the disc to the drive flange and that might need an impact driver. My dad had one that you hit with a hammer, I guess today that you can only get an electric one. is this the same as a hammer drill? Any thing else I need to be aware of?

Thanks

Julian

I just sat the disc back into the tyre to hold the bolts then used a long bar. Worked very well taking it off and on

I use one of these for bleeding,supacheap , wasn't $200 when they had their trade sale last year.
bleeder.jpg