From time to time, and a little more often now, she is hard to start. Turn the key, all the lights on the dash but when engaging the starter motor just a click. Persevere and she comes good. Is the solenoid on the blink? is there an easy fix like on the rideon mower - jam a fat screwdriver in the right place? If so, advice please. Thanks. I may need it soon!
Pete
Thanks, I'll have a browse. At present I'm after first aid as we are way out in woop woop (No neighbours even) and rely on the beast for every trip out. Including going to the PO to collect spare parts!
Jan this year, brother had similar issue with his TD5 too.
Fix was to use the longest handled thing(screwdriver) we had on hand, from underneath and tap the starter to 'wake 'er up so to speak.
First time it happened was on a very steep incline (Herne Spur Track) .. awesome place to stop.
Happened a few times in the week we were in the Wonangatta area, and again out with the long handle, tap and start.
On return home, starter was replaced.
Arthur.
All these discos are giving me a heart attack!
'99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
'03 D2 Td5 Auto
'03 D2a Td5 Auto
Well I had a bit of a Google and found a very helpful vid from a bloke called Laurie. I have removed the plunger and indeed it is pretty messy and pitted. I have found the parts I need online and ordered them. Sounds like an unusually cheap fix for a Landy!
Starter Motor Solenoid Repair Kits Nuts for Land Rover Discovery Defender TD5 AU 659438785272 | eBay
If I had a lathe I would follow Laurie's instructions and refinish the copper washer with sandpaper, but sadly, no lathe.
Thanks AK83 for the hint of tapping the starter motor end for a "get you going". I can now put it all back together while I await the bits and hopefully if it's reluctant to start then the tap trick will get her going. Access was cramped on the ground so I put her on ramps but now it's a bit of a tall reach but all doable. I'm pretty certain I can do the proper job without removing the starter.
_IGP9999.jpg
Do you have a drill press? Don't use sandpaper and the abrasive embeds itself in the copper, isn't conductive and destroys the other contacts.
If you have a drill press, scraping it with a knife or perhaps a nail file? Anything to abrade the surface without leaving embedded abrasive.
Need much bigger chuck than my drill press. It's about 3/4" diam.
Point taken about sandpaper tho the guy used it successfully.
I have scraped it clean and shiny, also the internal contacts. Have yet to reassemble but I re kon I'll make it to the PO when the kit arrives.
We had to leave the Landy at home and borrow a car for a couple of days. (Nice ride in a 1986 Merc 300D)
I had left the Disco after a full charge, just to make sure the battery was full. This morning battery was down to 12.5V.
Should it not be araound 12.6 for a healthy battery? There is a constant drain I know from the quiet circuits when she is parked up but now I'm wondering if the battery is suspect. What would you expect the voltage to be after left standing for a couple of days? When I first had this starter problem the battery was 12.39V the day after a good run. I tried cleaning up the solenoid washer face and reinstalled it but no joy. Just the click still. Tapping the end with a bit of broom handle - no effect.
Waiting on the kit which I hope will arrive in my mailbox. Having a serious think about removing the starter do the job rather than try and replace the internal terminals in situ. Have read a heap of posts about the top nut and how to tackle it.
I believe you're tapping the solenoid, but just in case others have different thoughts, tapping the motor casing risks dislodging magnets.
Tap the solenoid. The vibration may shift opposing corroded areas just a tiny bit to align to a working contact, if your lucky. The solenoid not only passes current it also pushes a lever that moves the bendix gear. With short circuit if the motor spins without engagement then the bendix is not moving because the solenoid is stuck, not powered or the lever mechanism is broken (some are plastic) - just generally, not D2 specific.
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