Thread: Out with the old, in with the newish diff.

I was caught for a moment, which way does the diff go in? Then I remembered the flat bit, where the diff guard is attached is on the bottom. When I tried to put the diff in, it got stuck, like it was 2mm too wide, but with the help of one of my boys, we jiggled it in. It is harder if you are laying on your back. The RTV went on, the bolts had Loctite on them and all torqued up to spec.
Putting the passenger side half shaft hub went ok as well, a bit of jiggling to get the splines into the diff centre, not too tricky. I torqued the bolts to 55Nm, just checked and they are meant to be 100Nm, so out and in again they will go. Just tightening them up, will just crack the Loctite. I put copper based anti seize grease on the hub mating surfaces.
REMEMBER to put oil in the DIFF!!
I have decided to change the arm from the steering box, and the steering dampener. The ball joint is a bit grindy, and as I have good access I might as well change them out. I think I'll need to remove the steering guard to get access on the drivers side.
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The passenger side

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Nice and clean, just need the hub bolts to arrive so I can install the hub.

Well I did not lube the running surface of the seal. Does this mean I have to remove the the hub to lubricate it?

Well I removed the hub, easyish as anti seize copper greased was spread over the mating surface, lubed up the running surface of the axle seal and added more anti seize, put the hub back on. Then removed the hub, to put the ABS sensor in its place. More anti seize was used. Torqued up the hub bolts to 100Nm.
Put the brake rotor on, and the dust shield and that annoying clip that holds the brake line in place. To get the brake line in a good position, I loosened the banjo bolt thing, so I'll have to bleed the brakes.
But it is done. I also refitted the diff guard with new 3/8 BSF bolts and a spring washer, I'm wondering if I should use Loctite on these bolts. Yay or Nay?

I have to fit the other drive shaft, drivers side, change over the track rod and steering damper, and install the propshaft. Unlock the Centre diff!!
And, ADD OIL TO THE DIFF, and to the transfer case.

I have done lots of diffs. For sealing I just use the cheapest silicone I can get. Usually around 5 bucks for a cartridge.

When tightening the bolts the silicone will seal around the threads. I have never had one leak.

It would be 12 years ago I did my D1 diffs and they still don't leak.

It has been a pain on the weekends to get stuff done. Public holiday here today.
RHS Hub.jpg
To complete the work I need to
1/ Fill the diff with oil!
2/ Install the new track rod (from the steering box?)
3/ Check the oil level in the diff.
4/ Install the new steering damper
5/ Re install the new drag link.
6/ Instal the new prop shaft
7/ Unlock the CDL
8 Check the oil level in the diff.

Test drive, although the wheels do turn the diff, I can see the propshaft attachment bit turn.

Originally Posted by Bohica

.....
2/ Install the new track rod (from the steering box?)
....
....
5/ Re install the new drag link.
.....

Steering to knuckle is drag link.
Track rod is rear(wheel to wheel).


... just saying

OH, and also about thems things ...

Nephew and myself both got a set of Britpart HD link sets. Overall nice quality for the low price we got for both at the same time.
But the rubber boots(on the rod ends) ... total rubbish.
I have yet to install my set, but nephew is trying to get his RWC. Less than 100kmls of 'nothing driving'(ie. from my place to his or around the corner to a warehouse where he works on it .. easy peasy, non registered vehicle type driving) ... both drag link boots totally stuffed/ripped.

Utter rubbish.
Anyhow, got a cheapo pair of boots from Repco, easy enough job to replace. But less than 100klms is mind boggling.

Originally Posted by AK83

Steering to knuckle is drag link.
Track rod is rear(wheel to wheel).


... just saying

OH, and also about thems things ...

Nephew and myself both got a set of Britpart HD link sets. Overall nice quality for the low price we got for both at the same time.
But the rubber boots(on the rod ends) ... total rubbish.
I have yet to install my set, but nephew is trying to get his RWC. Less than 100kmls of 'nothing driving'(ie. from my place to his or around the corner to a warehouse where he works on it .. easy peasy, non registered vehicle type driving) ... both drag link boots totally stuffed/ripped.

Utter rubbish.
Anyhow, got a cheapo pair of boots from Repco, easy enough job to replace. But less than 100klms is mind boggling.

I bought a Lemforder drag link, track rod also Lemforder, I think.

Well almost.
I had trouble undoing the bolt on the drag link. Lying on my back, it was hard to get a good angle for my arms to pull. I ended up putting in a bit more effort, with my legs up in the air out from the front of the car, this worked. (Who is the idiot that put a steering guard in?) I was lucky as the bolt was firmly attached to the steering box drop arm. I ended up pushing down with a tyre ironm levered against the mount for the steering guard! A heave a out popped the ball joint. The new drag link was shorter than the old one, and the adjusting bolts were loose. I guess this is normal, not that I'd know. I set the length and postion of the ball joints, tightened up the bolt. The car will go in for a wheel alighment. Again the bolt joints were firm in the fitting and I did not need to use the annoying 30Torx or what ever it was. The nuts tightened up and torqued up with out any problems. The track rod also went back easily. I did not have new Nylock nut, so I used thread locker. On to the propshaft. I bought a set from a land rover bitz seller based in QLD. They were M10 nuts and bolts. The nuts do not fit of course. I managed to get replacement from Autobarn and Repco. The propshaft went in sort of ok. There is a gap between the mating surfaces of the propshaft and diff. I'll have to remove these bolts and fit it up proper like. I have found the propshaft socket tool, so that will make it easier to remove and refit. I found the tool, after fitting the prop shaft. I did fill the diff with oil. I remembered that bit.
I have to bleed the brakes as I needed to loosen the banjo not to relieve tension on the brake hose. These little things that add to the task. An untwisted brake hose when fitting the caliper would have removed that tasks, yet I did it on both sides.
TOmorrow is re fit the propshaft and bleed the brakes.
Fit wheels and road test.
The front end had new ball joints, drag link, damper, track rod. It should handle better. Oh yes and a newish diff and a new prop shaft