Thread: D2 front drive shaft problem?

You can buy the bearings and just get someone to fit them,, (the centre bearing is not a DIY item) I think mine worked out around $300 all up including fitting,,
Hardie Spicer is just a business, (google it) but one that would use quality parts.
In 2012 quality of the parts is now a concern (chinese bearings are still not quite there--).

[B]

Originally Posted by georgesadlik;[/B

24th April 2009, 08:32 PM...963501]So i guess we're done here then ?

George

George, George, George.
they are still going bang.

Originally Posted by landyprincess

Hi All,
hope you are all well...

...mine has had the dreaded crickets for the last week (only intermittent) and from my read through this excellent post, my gut tells me its the same prob so want to nip this in the butt.

Is there someone who could recommend a business in the South Eastern (outer) Subs of Melbourne that is able to recondition my original one? Not sure if its the front or rear yet.

Also, any comments on those who have had them reconditioned ....how much did it cost? We can take it out and put it back in ...so just after someone who can do the reconditioning bit. Other priorities so I don't have the time for us doing it all at the moment.

Appreciate the help,

Thanks
Lp

I'm about to get mine done -replacement with standard size but greasable components- have talked to this guy.
Jeff Lagerwey at Knox Driveshafts, 73 Bursaria Ave, Ferntree Gully on 9758-4015.

Thanks for the replies JWB and Pedro.... I called a few 'specialists' today, one being Hardy Spicer, they have a service centre in Dandenong which isn't too far for hubby to drive to....

Another specialist quoted me $200 + 1 day, Hardy Spicer quoted $311+gst & a few days turn around with me taking the shaft to them.... bit of a difference in price so am assuming the first one probably uses cheaper parts??.... eitherway, have decided to go with hardy spicer...

Will post a pic of it once removed. I am pretty certain it's on its way out. Atleast hubby gets to do the kiddie run and shopping for a change - HA!.... (buggered if I am going to drive that rocket FJ40 of his!)

Cheers,
Lp

Tried for hours to remove centre bearing then a 1/4 inch coach bolt and a small chisel or screwdriver then tighten the nut. Success .

I spent an hour looking for something to fit in the small gap at the bottom of that center joint. Did you grind the head of the bolt down or was it thin already? I ended up just heating the out side with an oxy and turning the ball side ways and it popped out with a screw driver.

Tried for hours to remove centre bearing then a 1/4 inch coach bolt and a small chisel or screwdriver then tighten the nut. Success .

Also an update on how i went with mine its all completed and back in the car working perfectly. Few issues i had with parts i could not get a SCV-82B only a SCV-82A one problem with the A is the seal is incorrect. I still used it as i purchased a seal separate but even that was a challenge.

I used TOYO Uni's which have grease points however the caps are not as long as the uni's i removed. There is no marking on the old ones so cant be sure what they are. Next time ill get Hardy Spicer uni's.

Also as mine had already been worked on and i could not see any previous markings, i made the call to have it balanced and it turned out it was way out. If it looks like your uni's have been changed and there is no markings before you pull it all apart best bet is to have it balanced.

I used Bob @ BPM in Cromer (02) 9982 4933 for balancing but he also offers full rebuilds or Custom shafts.

Thanks for the Great Thread and Info
Cheers
Rhys

The coach bolt has the mushroom head so its thin enough to hook under and wedge with the chisel.
Now I have a buzzing vibration after fitting new unis GMB brand. I confirm that seal doesnt fit for the 82A centre bearing.
Any ideas on the vibration? even checked the phasing after removing and greasing the slip joint.... The uni cups are just in enough to fit circlips.
Phased the grease nipples to ensure balance. No joints are tight.

The idea is good but you need a good bolt to fit the small area. I was going to grind one to suit but got over it and fired up the oxy.

Mine had a small factory weight on the shaft after balancing it was removed and 2 larger weights welded in a different location on one end and also one added to the other end.

You could try positioning each end 180 deg on either flange. Try the diff end first.

Originally Posted by northiam

The coach bolt has the mushroom head so its thin enough to hook under and wedge with the chisel.
Now I have a buzzing vibration after fitting new unis GMB brand. I confirm that seal doesnt fit for the 82A centre bearing.
Any ideas on the vibration? even checked the phasing after removing and greasing the slip joint.... The uni cups are just in enough to fit circlips.
Phased the grease nipples to ensure balance. No joints are tight.