Thread: D2 front drive shaft problem?

Originally Posted by Robgw

If you take the Prop into a Hardy Spicer branch can they rebuild them for you?

Yes, did for me.

Regards
Andrew

Hi folks, just getting ready to do the front and rear shafts. Is the K5-a757 from Hardy Spicer a greasable unit? and if so do you buy the grease nipples as extras?

By the way, I see many pilot bearing puller's on our ebay for approx 50 dollars delivered (I know its not top quality) which is not bad considering you know you will not be stuck over the weekend either.

Originally Posted by mousie

Hi folks, just getting ready to do the front and rear shafts. Is the K5-a757 from Hardy Spicer a greasable unit? and if so do you buy the grease nipples as extras?

By the way, I see many pilot bearing puller's on our ebay for approx 50 dollars delivered (I know its not top quality) which is not bad considering you know you will not be stuck over the weekend either.

The K5-A757's are greasable and come with nipples.

Got the chirpies yesterday, knew exactly what the problem was.
There's about a mm of play in the DC end of the prop shaft, and I'm seeing some silver.
Having a few issues with an eblag vendor from the UK so I'm trying to source some good replacement parts.
Anyone got some good ideas for sourcing them locally?

Disco Muppet, I read all that there is and come to conclusion that Hardy Spicer K5-A757's @ 41 each and the SCV-82B @ $55 each is the way to go.
Looked at the alternative UNI's K5-L4R's and would be happy to use them also. In my case I constantly tow a 2.2t van and I'm at 206K on originals so the time is right. I do a tad minor water crossing, dust for hunting as well and the rear coupling is starting to show signs of fractures / splitting. I just ended up getting a genuine GKN Kit on ebay. My usual UK suppliers appear reluctant to let me know the brand and best perhaps GKN on its own without bolt kit was close to $75 delivered to Aus. I see mention of 2 types of couplings 30mm and 35mm so rather get the matching bolt kit anyway for a few dollars more at $113 dollars delivered. Anyway, there will be better prices I'm sure.

Once I have the ball kit this week, I'll check out the inside and mostly likely buy a pilot bearing puller as may use it on other stuff for the $50 dollars outlay and report back here on the success or fallback to DIY removal procedures.

The front prop shaft in my disco is already an aftermarket job with greasables which is shagged and i am weighing up my options. Has anybody purchased a Gibson front drive shaft and what feedback do they have. They are selling them on ebay, have a look.

1310 Series 99 04 Land Rover Discovery Series II Front Driveshaft | eBay

Regards
Paul

For the carden center bearing I just did what another member spoke of being to heat the outer centre ring by butane torch and I managed to pop out the ball with a screwdriver after the bearing itself came out about 3mil. Its pretty soft metal on the bearing inner cage so with a 2.5mil drill bit, just worked one of three grease cutouts in the bearing and was able to just finally leaver it out. The metal is soft and certainly the grease channel made it easy for 5 min careful drilling and checking without damaging the outer ring.

Just to give you an idea on wear. My disco td5 Auto has 206K standard height and mostly road with towing 2t about 20% (40K) and occasional dusty hunting trips. The rear and front original greasable uni's were worn but no free play and overall okay should I wanted another 100k+ out of them. The two carden joints were still greased from original but getting on the lean and dry side and I noticed roller pitting on both carden uni's (one pole of the uni only each uni and I cannot work that out????) Now I had no signs that they needed replacement. Furthermore, when testing, mucking around trying to feel any wear by hand outside I could not detect the pitting (mainly cause I cannot load it up like the car can).

So the upshot is, it was worth it but still gives you an idea that the carden uni's would be good for another few K's however with continued towing, not worth the risk. I'm pretty happy with life and condition overall. Also the rear roto bush had many signs of light fracturing as did the centre bush (what a pain to get that out).

The Carden obviously cops the load and high wear. This pick might show you the limited pitting on the load side and is same on directly opposite. I can only imagine that arm may be a ever so a fraction smaller diameter to cause this but open to advice here.

Hi guys,

new member here and also a owner of a 'new' 03 D2a Disco td5. The dreaded vibration over 90km/hr on slight throttle was evident last week. Funny i never get to go over 80km/hr so it was the first time to reach that speed and feel the vibration.
Prior to this, the last month i've been chasing a 'ting' when the front wheels hit a speed bump or decent pothole etc. I assume this is the tweety noise. Didn't even connect the two!

Thanks to this site, i've researched/ diagnosed/ almost replaced the joints myself but the Tom Woods shaft looked too good. Have just ordered one now.

The reason for the post is to let you all know Jeep Konnection in Melbourne have new stock, just arrived. Special mention to Andrew down there, very helpful.

Once again thanks to this site, i've potentially saved thousands on an expensive repair bill if the shaft let go!
tks
Steve